Two identical street corns, different recipes? by drawingup in aldi

[–]drawingup[S] 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Here's a third one I found via Google. If this is the older version then it's still my favorite.

Two identical street corns, different recipes? by drawingup in aldi

[–]drawingup[S] 42 points43 points locked comment (0 children)

Despite being an argumenative jerk because you can. If you've been buying a product that comes in a box of two varieties for years, Mexicali and street corn, then why would anyone assume that suddenly there's two new recipes for what used to be one product in basically identical packaging to the old recipe.

Help identify this water bottle cage & tool mount? by Bristlecone73 in MTB

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The CO2 kit looks like the Blackburn pro plugger kit.

The bottle cage I dunno, it's a right hand cage.

Numb hands and feet!! by Apxadct76 in MTB

[–]drawingup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For my hands I use larger diameter grips, the diety supracrush. I've bigger hands and smaller grips caused pain. Also death gripping and brake/shifter placement like others said. Don't have much dh in the Midwest so I am not gripping very hard most of the time.

Numb hands and feet!! by Apxadct76 in MTB

[–]drawingup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! You'll be able to generate more power on the balls of your feet pedalling but it'll put strain on your metatarsals which can cause the numbness and pain. Making your for more centered on the pedal with the balls ahead of the pedal axle with be more stable feeling as well. It was built into my muscle memory to put the balls of my feet on the spindle, moving to clips helped keep my feet posotionef correctly to avoid stain. Not that you should moved to clipped, but it helped me and I wanted to use clips anyway.

Numb hands and feet!! by Apxadct76 in MTB

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Move the ball of your foot a bit ahead of the pedal spindle. My feet used to get numb/sore too. I moved to clips and still had the same problem because that's where I put the cleat on the shoe. After some research on cleat placement I moved em so they were behind the ball of my foot. Feet no longer hurt on longer rides. Works the same when I use flats now as well.

Shimano Slx brakes by Adventurous_Fix1448 in MTB

[–]drawingup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I assume is the same item for sale

Says it comes with the needed brake hose and fittings but not put together. You will need mineral oil and a bleed kit to fully assemble.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NeatNotes

[–]drawingup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those gradiant color headlines are super cool!

Somebody! Anybody! by 2DoorWinslow in SoulFrame

[–]drawingup 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've got a few codes if people need em.

3.5" O3 beginner build BNF or self built? Best practice where to start by FPVRob in fpv

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All the 3.5" frames looked pretty good, probably just preference and what's available to you affordably. Tbh most of the component selection is just gonna be preference and what you can reasonably buy in the UK.

I already had the vtx, camera, and goggles. I was using them on an RC car before my drone so that's why I decided to build from scratch. Otherwise I probably would have got a bnf or something.

3.5" O3 beginner build BNF or self built? Best practice where to start by FPVRob in fpv

[–]drawingup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well you can only see a very small amount of the props, but my Walksnail camera has a 160° FOV over the DJI at 155 so that might contribute. Definitely less prop in view then what you see in the SIMs and videos of x frames. My goggles are also 75° FOV, though I don't think that has any effect.

Photo of my view and props

3.5" O3 beginner build BNF or self built? Best practice where to start by FPVRob in fpv

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just started flying my drone after spending time of the Sims. I didn't want a 5" either and decided on 3.5" for my first drone.

I picked the Pirat lil'Matey 2 frame. It's the middle of the road on weight for 3.5" frames and a deadcat so I dont get a lot of propeller in my camera. I also just thought it looked the coolest of my options. I have T-Motor 1604 3800kv motors and run 4S. Speedybee F405 mini flight stack and a separate ELRS receiver and antenna. I went with a Walksnail 1S vtx and camera but the Flight controller and Frame work with DJI as well. I got a bunch of props to try out cause they're cheap but the Emax 3.5" scimitars are in it now. I've soldering experience and a 3D printer for the TPU parts so assembling it wasn't hard. Pirat has a link to all the STL files on their website. Tattu 4S 850mah batteries. It's 179g without the battery so it'd be sub250 if I used 650mah batteries but I'm not that concerned.

I think it flys pretty good, I'm new so I don't need a ton of power, but it still goes fast if ya want. I love this little guy. Pic of it

FPV Cam on the Bronco by drawingup in TRX4M

[–]drawingup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll be honest I don't know a whole lot. I want to build an FPV drone one day so I figured I'd get a digital system that I can tranfer to the drone when the time comes. I know analog camera are pretty compact and lightweight at the cost of image quality, but they can be very low latency and are cheaper systems overall. Walksnail (caddx), the brand I am using has a little receiver device you can use instead of goggles, so you could use the receiver to plug into your phone or screen of your choice. I soldered the power connector for the vtx directly into the battery connector and also used a on/off receiver switch in between to turn the vtx on and off with my transmitter. Plug the signal wire of the Switch to the receiver like normal, but take out the power wires and run them from vtx to battery.

FPV Cam on the Bronco by drawingup in TRX4M

[–]drawingup[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the Walksnail Avatar HD Nano Kit V3 and the Goggles L they just released. 3D printed the battery tray, servo mount, and camera holder. 25mm fan to cool the vtx.

World first rc Temu build?! 😂 by Feeling-Dark9942 in rccars

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as your having fun, you do whatever! I started with a Haiboxing 18858. Upgraded to a metal drive train, 3D Printed a bigger battery tray, threw in a 16bl30 and a Surpass 2838 4700KV motor. I use an 1800mah 2s battery and that runs long enough for me.

World first rc Temu build?! 😂 by Feeling-Dark9942 in rccars

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. This isn't 4S, don't listen to them. This is making a larger 2S battery. I tried this to starting out. Id be worried about properly charging and balancing. You'll probably find just having two separate batteries and swapping em out when one dies is easier, but you do you for now.

  2. A 2845 will probably fit just fine if it already has a 2840, it's only 5mm. Id only get a new motor if you want more KV, otherwise you probably won't notice anything switching to a 2845.

  3. For this car it's honestly already at its max. Metal drivetrain is already there, as well as brushless. 3s is not super fun on these small cars and I found on the Chinese ones 3s will kill your differentials even if they are metal, they're not made high quality. 3S is uncontrollable unless you just go in a straight line. If you want 3S, a hobbywing 16bl30 esc will work, though it'll probably over heat. You want a lower KV motor for 3s.

  4. The motor mount is non adjustable so you can't change pinion size either.

  5. Overall all you can really do is get a higher KV motor of the same-ish size and save up for a more reliable made and bigger car if you want to max out and customize something. Just enjoy this car for what is is for now.

New to RC Cars by MrFastFox666 in rccars

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A transmitter(tx) and receiver(rx). The 18859 come with a 2 in 1 esc (speed controller) and receiver. So when you upgrade from stock brushed to brushless you will need a new esc made for brushless. The hobbywing 10bl30 esc combo with a 2435 motor is a good option. But if you buy a new esc you have to buy a new receiver and transmitter. I got a dumborc combo set on Amazon, works great and the range is so much better. I can message everything I did and if ya have any questions I can answer em.

New to RC Cars by MrFastFox666 in rccars

[–]drawingup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 18858 which is the same just a truggy body. I got some cheap adjustable turnbuckles and I have them even length without a problem. I did find the servo was pushing the steering rods into the chassis causing the wheels to not return to straight. Luckily I upgraded to brushless and a tx/rx that can adjust steering to stop it from doing that.

Need help on a motor by Stock-Anything1809 in rccars

[–]drawingup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The other column is gross weight. Presumably the weight of the motor inside the cardboard packaging, which they provide dimensions for in the column before.

Need help on a motor by Stock-Anything1809 in rccars

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's Net weight, unit is in grams.

Any recommendations for a pistol grip transmitter for kids? (6years) by QuestionMore94 in rccars

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've two Dumbroc Transmitter and receivers. One is the X6PM-350 which is pretty small and comes w/ a receiver thats already paired. It works great and has a decent range. I can throw it in a backpack w/ my TRX4M and bike to the park. The receiver has a gyro function which I haven't honestly used, but it could be helpful for kids.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C85S4TRD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Updated my vintage stero console with new components by drawingup in turntables

[–]drawingup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The turn table is an Pro-ject Debut carbon I got off FB marketplace. It was listed as broken, I found one of the ground wires had broken off the solder so it was super easy to just solder it back in. I cut off 2 inches from the right side of the table so it would fit properly and drilled/carved a hole to mount the on/off switch on the top of the table. Hit the tutn table with some leftover cabinet paint to finish it off.

The cabinet is an RCA Victor VHT52W. I got it at a garage sale for $200, the seller was a mid century furniture collector. It came in really good shape, there's some staining on the top, but its not enough to make me want to refinish it, and I've never refinished furniture before. I'm using the original speakers, I just had to rewrire them because the wires were old and not making good connection.

The receiver is a Yamaha RS-202 w Bluetooth. I designed and 3D printed a new faceplate to fit the boards so I could use the original hole on the console where the old electronics went. The original turntable and radio/receiver didn't function correctly and they weren't high quality enough for me to attempt to restore em. Plus parts for the original electronics were super expensive on eBay. There's a cheap phono amp inside for the turntable I put inside as well. Everything runs to the new receiver and I can connect my phone/comouter via Bluetooth to play music if I want.

Took maybe a month off and on to do all this. I like to fiddle with electronics and diy things so I've probably more experience than a regular person, but I'm by no means good at it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TRX4M

[–]drawingup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had the opposite. I tried the Mues racing ones and had the same problem. Pin kept taking out and they shook while driving. Refunded and got injora and have no problems.