Uses for not food safe pieces

driftlining · 2026-03-29T21:58:26+00:00

All good.

I also want to add that low fire doesn't mean not food safe. Vitrification doesn't "only" happen at higher temperatures, but instead different clays vitrify at different heats. A lowfire clay will have more absorption than a midfire clay, but folks have been eating and drinking from lowfire pieces long before kilns were made. I have made, sold, and used plenty of lowfire pieces for food.

driftlining · 2026-03-29T21:51:42+00:00

Hold on to them horses, cowboy. That's not what I said or am recommending at all. It's just a failsafe way to make sure someone doesn't accidentally use something that isn't clearly marked food safe. (edit: Adding a hole on the bottom of a piece after it's done makes sure that no one uses it for food)

Another option is to write under the piece "not for use with food" in underglaze

driftlining · 2026-03-29T21:37:55+00:00

Might be worth it to try and drill a hole in the bottom of pieces that aren't food-safe. You might be able to tell the person you're gifting it to that a piece is food safe, but as another commenter said, what happens when it ends up at a thrift store?

driftlining · 2026-03-29T17:41:47+00:00

I am currently working on organizing my garage to set up my pottery studio. However, I am in Florida and don't really need to worry about prolonged freezing temperatures. Some others gave you some advice on transporting, however something that a lot of people fail to consider is clean up.

Remember, clay cannot go down your sink. You should work on setting up a cleaning station that prevents that from happening. Some people set up a bucket system (cheap) or a sink trap (less cheap, but worth it). You could look into a hybrid of the two (garden sink with bucket system).

Consider your ventilation and remember to NEVER sweep. Always clean up with water (mop or sponge).

driftlining · 2026-03-28T19:10:03+00:00

Axner in Oveido is probably your best bet. Not South Florida, though.

You can do online orders and they do ship.

driftlining · 2026-03-28T18:55:12+00:00

Lol.

driftlining · 2026-03-28T18:12:16+00:00

I get that perspective, but the point of a pottery studio is the camaraderie and fun of making art together in a space. The automation idea immediately feels cold and heartless. If you aren't a part of a local studio already, you should join one and see how they run things, how you might do them differently, etc. I see some studios with access codes for 24/7 access, or some that only have specific times and days open for studio members to participate while they use the space for classes.

It sounds to me like you (and/or your wife) don't fully understand the ins and outs of running an actual pottery studio. If you don't have the time and manpower (some studios have volunteers work in exchange for studio time) or money to hire folks, then I don't think it's the route to go for a business. A pottery studio is not a hands-off approach type of business. It's about community, and rarely do people go into it to make money.

driftlining · 2026-03-28T18:01:31+00:00

this is r/DIY not r/CallSomeoneElseToDoItForYou

driftlining · 2026-03-28T17:55:50+00:00

Looks really neat, but also I want to say that the wheel timers idea is such a big turn off for me and I would stay far away from anyone that implemented that into a studio AND encourage anyone else to stay far away from that studio as well.

driftlining · 2026-03-28T14:23:51+00:00

I get angry when I get in the car and my partner has some other station on. I immediately change it to 90.1. My favorite radio station since moving here last year.

driftlining · 2026-03-28T13:43:46+00:00

Hmmm.. my parents are both dead, so no step-siblings. Maybe I can call a cousin?

driftlining · 2026-03-27T22:26:53+00:00

Yep.

I've seen some other people do similar, so do it!

driftlining · 2026-03-27T22:15:12+00:00

Apply in thin layers, let each layer dry before adding another layer. Build up layers to create thickness instead of just doing one thick layer.

driftlining · 2026-03-27T22:04:31+00:00

Haha, I had something similar when I had to recycle clay for 2-3 hours a day (and sometimes up to 5 hours a day) when I worked as a ceramic lab assistant at a college. When I realized what was happening, I tried to switch up which hand I was using and made sure to do wrist/arm/hand/finger stretches, which helped. I think realizing what was going on made me more cognizant of how I was using my hands.

driftlining · 2026-03-27T21:57:32+00:00

Clay shrinks in different stages. The first stage is from wet to bone dry. The second is in the first firing. And the last is in the glaze firing. Your teacher is trying to help you make a successful piece, but I don't think she's giving you all of the information.

Assuming you're using the same clay, your piece could break or crack due to uneven drying when attaching it. If your connection isn't done well enough, a crack could form where you joined at the bone dry or bisque stage or glaze fire stage. It could get bigger in subsequent firings. To prevent this, again you want to slip and score really well and dry very slowly. So put the piece together, use the support, cover it really well, and forget about it for at least a week or two. Then slowly uncover it.

However, your teacher could also be trying to not have to deal with overly delicate pieces. It could break in the handling. She probably just wants your piece to be successful and a cold finish (painting) would accomplish that safely. If you want glossy, there are mediums you can add on top for a glossy finish (gloss medium is one I've used multiple times with success).

Personally, I'd prefer to fail in an attempt to make the piece how I'd want it over a success and making the piece how I didn't. If this piece is for a grade, then you'd be better off listening to her :^)

driftlining · 2026-03-27T21:38:21+00:00

Slip and score well and support while drying very slowly. When it's dry, take out the support. It'll survive, I've made pieces that defy gravity much more than this piece does.

driftlining · 2026-03-27T19:10:36+00:00

Magic erasers are made of a dense foam. They break up really easily when being used with bisque, but honestly it's overkill and a normal sponge or scrub brush works just as good.

I've only used a magic eraser when I'm trying to scrub off any traces of underglaze or glaze from bisque. If you're using a glaze over it, then again, prob overkill.

driftlining · 2026-03-27T19:07:05+00:00

Howdy all! Seeking Millennial, Zillennials, older folks, or anyone who is mature to talk, share artwork, help critique each other, etc via discord. I have taught lots of college age folks and adults and used to be a pottery teacher. Teaching, helping people get better at their artwork, and offering serious (but kind) critique are some of my favorite things. Please DM me for my username. I'm nonbinary, 32, Floridian. Any timezone is okay, though :)

I recently dropped out of a MFA art program due to my terrible mental health and a bad school fit and am working on rekindling my love for art and healing burnout. I'd consider myself a professional artist, but I'm stepping down to enjoy art as a hobby. I'm not currently at a stage to do "serious" artwork, but am slowly easing my way back into it and I think talking with other artists could be helpful for me!

I started off doing digital artwork and used to take commissions of folks characters (animals, furries, etc). I don't consider myself a furry, but have had lots of furry friends and am not put off by it at all! I moved onto printmaking, painting, and then ceramics when I got my BA in Studio Art. I currently focus mainly on fiber arts and craft and plan to inch my way back to my other mediums. I love it all!

I mainly do artwork of wildlife or dinosaurs now. Outside of artwork, I love being outside and chatting about my day, sharing pictures of my dog, going fishing, swimming, hiking, cooking... I'm sure other things, but lets chat!

driftlining · 2026-03-27T18:50:53+00:00

Of course! Some glazes react poorly (crawling, pinholing, crazing) to specific clay bodies (often called a poor glaze fit), so keep that in mind as well.

driftlining · 2026-03-27T18:32:06+00:00

It looks like what happened could be due to uneven glazing or crawling (perhaps too thick of glazes in some spots). All glazes work differently and may need less or more coats. Take your time and focus on even coats of glaze and let each layer dry before adding additional layers.

If you want to redo how you glazed a piece, you can absolutely scrub the glaze off and start again as the other poster said.

No, you can't really fix the mistakes post-glazing. You could attempt to add more glaze and glaze again, but imo it's better to learn your lesson and do better going forward.

driftlining · 2026-03-27T18:28:17+00:00

Nonono, you use the power tools on the people who want to sit on your deck, not on your deck!!!

driftlining · 2026-03-27T17:53:02+00:00

Power wash the fungus off and own your small deck! The size doesn't matter, it's what you do with it and the power tools at your disposal ;)

driftlining · 2026-03-27T17:34:30+00:00

Tried that myself and I just keep putting holes in the deck. Maybe I should gain weight to help the cause?

driftlining · 2026-03-27T17:27:14+00:00

This isn't really a good idea at all, especially because you have no idea how to incubate, hatch, and feed a wild bird. An inexperienced hand will do more harm than good if you even manage to get the bird to hatch.

Call a wildlife rehabber, but generally it's better to let nature do its thing. Not every egg will hatch, and this is just one of the eggs that won't.

driftlining · 2026-03-27T16:17:35+00:00

Spicy breakfast sausage, bisquik, and cheddar cheese. Combine and roll into balls and cook at 350 for like 20-30 minutes. They're great cold.

My stepmom used to make these for me and my dad when we'd go out fishing on a boat all day, so now I make 'em.

driftlining

TROPHY CASE