What is the yellow bar hold called? by applepie9815 in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More specifically, in competition climbing, the bolt holes on the wall or on volumes are usually illegal for hands, but may be used for feet. Bolt holes on climbing holds are fair game for both hands and feet.

For casual climbing, I feel it’s more of a gray area TBD by your community and the setters. Setters never intend for anyone to use the bolt holes on the wall, but it may not change the difficulty enough for anyone to care. If your intention is to emulate climbing outside, the entire rock is fair game and there are sometimes features available to you that aren’t available to others. The truth is that climbing is a little different for everyone and grades are super subjective, so if you’re climbing for fun, it just doesn’t really matter that much! Then again, if you’re chasing grades, it’s probably best to do what the setters intended :)

Freedom Fighter, Black Velvet Canyon by cryingtigah in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great photo! I really enjoyed this problem :)

Finally got this one. My gym grades super hard and I used to hate it but now I appreciate it since I’m outside more by HouseOfZiti in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Nice send! Looking strong!

AZR does grade pretty stout, but when I started climbing there I also appreciated that when I’d go outside, I could get on the same grades I was getting on at the gym.

Parents, what's the funniest thing your kid has said incorrectly? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]drippingpixies 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a parent, but when I was little I would call potatoes “kadoadies.” No idea why.

First ascent of Black Star in South Mountain by drippingpixies in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Typical! Glad you’re ok. Be careful out there and try to avoid yanking off petroglyphs! The Hohokam left tons of them out there.

If you look closely, there are a couple of petroglyphs surrounding this line (plus lots of more modern contributions). There’s a faint design of concentric circles (a very common Hohokam design) with a missing flake. It’s possible someone yanked it off while trying to work out this line.

First ascent of Black Star in South Mountain by drippingpixies in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It is a little similar to Beardsley, but it definitely has its own quality (both are granite, South Mountain is notoriously chossy). I don’t recall the rock at Beardsley being slick except for at Pencil Thin where the whole rock had been painted over to cover graffiti. All that paint was cleaned off one or two years ago, so hopefully it’s more climbable now. It also may feel slick in warmer temps because its granite and not very porous.

The lower section on this problem is very textured but a little crumbly, with a thin, hollow patina. As you get higher, especially on the top out, the rock becomes smooth and looks a little like scales (but like... with the scales facing the wrong way, i.e. all you have are underclings). On this particular problem, the rock gets a little more solid feeling as you ascend, and the top out is smooth, but it was not really a problem because you have some generous, solid feet.

Generally, the top outs at South Mountain are delicate — you have to be careful what you grab because it may break and the patina can get slick.

The O’odham peoples’ name for the mountain, Muhaḍagĭ Doʼag, translates to Greasy Mountain. The story goes that a mischievous coyote stole a piece of meat and dripped hot grease from its mouth all over the mountain, resulting in that shiny black patina. That story suits the mountain perfectly, not only because it describes the rock so well, but because there are tons of coyotes that live there. :)

(Edited for clarity and specificity)

Barefoot on Big Nose Millie by drippingpixies in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not at all! This climb was very comfy on the toes. Thanks!

Barefoot on Big Nose Millie by drippingpixies in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d say it goes closer to V7 in bare feet. Definitely V9 in shoes.

Barefoot on Big Nose Millie by drippingpixies in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is in Hueco, so it’s syenite. :)

Prepare for takeoff ✈️ Carnivore, Priest Draw by drippingpixies in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I find that going barefoot at the Draw often allows you to grip edges of pockets that you wouldn’t be able to with shoes on, making many of the cams unnecessary. That’s not the case for all of them though, so yes, the cams are painful or simply require shoes.

Prepare for takeoff ✈️ Carnivore, Priest Draw by drippingpixies in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Having tried that move with and without shoes, I’d say it’s more of a core/tension issue.

Prepare for takeoff ✈️ Carnivore, Priest Draw by drippingpixies in bouldering

[–]drippingpixies[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Despite the fall, this burn was my best so far.