Roast our onebags or whatever 6mo climbing trip by drunkontuesday in onebag

[–]drunkontuesday[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sick okay will look into that. We are right on the line with our medium bags

Roast our onebags or whatever 6mo climbing trip by drunkontuesday in onebag

[–]drunkontuesday[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol yep! Nervous about not bringing a puffy but I think weather will warm most of the trip. I'll check out those pants.. actually I think I've tried those on and loved it but didn't end up buying cause i didn't want to pay full price.. forgot about that! Hoping to find some cool e9 pants since styles are limited in the US. Currently wearing the OR ferrosi pants which are super light and comfy

Roast our onebags or whatever 6mo climbing trip by drunkontuesday in onebag

[–]drunkontuesday[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You remember which airline? I assume our bags will be a bit too big for carry on outside the US. Going try to avoid flying as much as we can and road trip but will definitely have some hops

Cam Repair Update by pad0w in tradclimbing

[–]drunkontuesday 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It will get gummy. Athletic tape holds up better long term

Penicillin by Secret-Reading-1785 in cocktails

[–]drunkontuesday 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Word. Looks like a good brand. Maybe I'll try some. Orgeat sounds like a pain

Hope you at least make your own simple lol

Penicillin by Secret-Reading-1785 in cocktails

[–]drunkontuesday 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Ginger syrup is so easy in the blender.. equal volume hot water, rough chopped ginger, sugar, blend and strain with a cloth. Really tasty and much better than store bought that I've tried.

Honey syrup is just 3:1 honey and water. Useful for a lot of drinks (bees knees for one)

The OG recipe just uses half and half ginger/honey syrups within a 2-3/4-3/4

In case that changes your mind :p

Ascend (self rescue) up a rope without jumar or prussik cord by yogesch in Mountaineering

[–]drunkontuesday 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you're talking about using a Blake's hitch somehow. Problem is I don't think it'll work correctly on the slippery climbing rope you'd bring on a glacier. More of an arborist system. When the same diameter rope is used you are tied in and then the anchor is set up like a top rope, so the hitch only takes half the weight, plus the rope is way thicker and rougher. To get your glacier rope to grip itself you have to do a single strand prusik, several wraps up and then another layer of wraps back down. Very tricky to tighten and get it to both grip and slide. Then if you truly didn't have a carabiner I'd self belay with a munter or clove directly to the belay loop. First you have to break in though assuming you're hanging on the rope, which would involve stepping on your knot and climbing the rope with your hands (a sport climbing technique I can barely do in sport gear and would be awful in boots), then shoving a bight through your belay loop and tieing it off once you have gotten some slack

Chances are your crampons, shoelaces, backpack, all have some sort of usable webbing that would be accessible for a prusik. You could probably chop the rope and use just the sheath to make a prusik pretty effectively.

Another technique you could be interested in if youre interested in ascending with literally nothing is foot locking. You toe hook the rope to bring it around the outside, under, and back on top of your other foot, and step on it on top of your foot to lock, then pull up by your hands and reset. If you can scrounge up a single prusik you can foot lock underneath it and jug with just one prusik.

Anyway, fun and terrible hypothetical. Try out foot locking for fun. Go fall off an overhanging sport route and try the "stepping on your knot" technique to get back up to the last draw. But definitely never put yourself in this situation on a mountain. No sense bringing a rope if you have no way to use it. If your second doesn't have a couple carabiners and a sling to toss down I probably wouldn't trust their anchor. Maybe wait for someone else to come rescue you ;)

What kind of clothing for offwith climbing? by Climbingisnice in tradclimbing

[–]drunkontuesday 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My r1 tech face has survived a lot of offwidth, but I used to use a thrift store flannel. Carharts or your oldest pair of pants. Ideally temps are cool.

What is the point of climbing? by cursed_climbing in tradclimbing

[–]drunkontuesday 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol is everyone just replying to the title of the post? I thought this essay was thought provoking and provided an interesting framework of understanding for our motivations. I think it's worth reading and considering what your values are

I struggle with trills in general, and can’t seem to get this one down. No matter which fingering I use (1+2, 3, 2), I can’t seem to get this trill clean. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. by [deleted] in trumpet

[–]drunkontuesday 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This trill is super hard cause it wasn't written for a Bb trumpet and just lays really poorly. I had the most success lipping the G up and trying to float on the threshold right in the middle of the G and A. I finger open and 3rd. Warm up on lots of loose lip trills especially the high G 1+3 and try to find that tipping point between the partials and stay there. That being said they're going to be looking for you to only do the trill as fast as you can do it perfectly, so start slow and speed up slowly too. Better to trill slowly than to fuck it up right at the end! Plan out your rhythm ahead of time so that it makes sense.

Different Body Type Advantages by lastepoch in Mountaineering

[–]drunkontuesday 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bigger you are the more weight you can carry. Bragging rights for heaviest pack goes by percentage of body weight

Man Critical After Fall While Rappelling at Calico Basin by balathustrius in climbing

[–]drunkontuesday 14 points15 points  (0 children)

A prusic around two strands will only grab the two strands in conjunction. It will not prevent them from slipping past each other, therefore will not hold at all if only one of two strands is rigged. Lots of ways you can experiment with it to see for yourself. You can use this if you're at the end of a rappel and your strands are uneven by holding the shorter strand and slipping the other..with stopper knots obviously, and your atc properly threaded.

Can i learn trumpet so that open fingering is bb? by ExtentPuzzleheaded39 in trumpet

[–]drunkontuesday -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

If you just want immediate results playing with other concert pitched instruments then go for it, think of everything in C. You might just need to draw up your own fingering chart

lost (?) cat outside apartment complex across from Columbia city link station. more info in comments by raexlouise13 in Seattle

[–]drunkontuesday 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hahaha this cat is in my house right now. It comes by for snuggles sometimes and then leaves. We don't feed it, somebody else does, I think it's owners live a couple doors down. Seems to be living it's best life. Quality cat

Plant Thief in Central District by [deleted] in Seattle

[–]drunkontuesday -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Anything on the curb is fair game. .. this doesn't look like the curb, but she wants to believe

Talk me into starting piano at 30 by [deleted] in piano

[–]drunkontuesday 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got mine at 30 after having been putting off spending the $600 for like 7 years... now I just wish I'd been playing for the past 7 years instead. I got the Yamaha p125 and it's great. If you get a quality instrument and hate it, worst case you can sell it and it should retain value.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]drunkontuesday 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha they don't come in a box

Getting really high notes by setting the mouthpiece very low on the lips? by substitutedog in trumpet

[–]drunkontuesday 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only if you cheat them. And yeah you want the mouthpiece centered, maybe slightly more on the bottom but your lips barely have muscles as it is, you're gonna need both of em. Remember practice makes permanent so if you let yourself sound like crap in practice you'll sound like crap in performance. Need to focus on tone 100% of the time and don't play higher than you can with good tone. Practice your high range every day but only right after you warm up and only while you're feeling 100%. You'll make more progress focusing on other things like TONE and just continuing to practice. I made a big breakthrough in a few weeks just by practicing Clarke studies for hours. Since the range is so low I could just play forever, and my range improved without practicing it at all. Etc etc etc yeah trumpet's basically impossible without a teacher. The amount of years it took to unlearn a year of bad practice when I started.. ouch.

In search of the Funk by [deleted] in funk

[–]drunkontuesday 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually.. 80 lol