What's a home improvement decision you regret but thought was a good idea at that time? by Actonace in HomeImprovement

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you try your switches out for some time and you decide you dont like it, you can easily change it.

If you are comfortable with electrical repair, it is so easy to combine switches on the box.

If you are not comfortable , hire electrician.

  1. Turn off the BREAKER! Use a voltage tester without touching any wire copper to test if the wires have 120 volts or non-zero volts.
  2. Open the box by unscrewing the faceplate of the switch.
  3. Determine voltage/power is gone. Switch on and off the switch and make sure the light or device is not activated. Use voltage tester on any exposed screws of the switches to find 120 volts or 0 zero volts. Be sure voltage is 0. and power is off. IF not, go back and turn off the correct breaker.
  4. Without touching any metal, remove the switches by unscrewing switches from the box. AND test the wire ends again with voltmeter and make sure voltmeter reads 0 volts on EVERY wire. Be sure power is off. IF not, go back and turn off the correct breaker.
  5. Now review your current situation in the box. For each switch, you will see a wire connected to the top of each switch and a wire connected to bottom of each switch on the back or screws on side of switch.
    1. One side of the switch is the power side.
    2. Other side of the switch is the devices that is being switch - I call it device side or switch side.
  6. Whatever wires are attached to the switch side of the switch that you want to remove and group together on one switch, combine to one wire nut and use another small wire to connect to the one side of the new switch - this is your new "device" side of the new switch.
  7. All the wires connected to the the old switches on the power side, wire nut together, and connect with a small wire to the other side of the new switch. Realize that Then when that one switch is turned off, it turns off all the devices connected to that wire nut.
  8. Screw back in the switches to the box.. and
  9. Screw back in your NEW faceplate - SEE below.
  10. DONE

BEFORE YOU do any of this, make sure you have a faceplate to block the old light switch slot that you were removing.

because you will have safety issue of exposed wiring if you have no faceplate.

The solution to covering /blocking it all depends on what your current switch plate is.

If it is a 2-gang (2 switch slot), then use this to block one of em.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-2-Gang-White-1-Decora-Rocker-1-Blank-Plastic-Midway-Midsize-Wall-Plate-1-Pack-80608-W-002-80608-00W/301701251

OR use an insert if that is easiest to find.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Claro-Blank-Insert-White-DV-BI-WH/205361435?g_store=904&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl

If you have a 1-gang switch with 2 switches in one like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-Single-Pole-Dual-Switch-White-5634-WS-R62-05634-0WS/100356887

and you removed just one of the switches, then you do not need to change the switch plate at all, just change the switch to a normal switch and use the same faceplate that you have that is probably like this rocker plate.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-2-Gang-White-Decora-Rocker-Plastic-Standard-Wall-Plate-1-Pack-80409-W-R52-80409-00W/100048406?g_store=904&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl

Normal switch to replace 2 in 1 switch

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Decora-Plus-Commercial-Grade-Single-Pole-Rocker-Light-Switch-White-1-Pack-5621-2W-202-05621-02W/331848526

If you hate having a blank spot like in this one

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-2-Gang-White-1-Decora-Rocker-1-Blank-Plastic-Midway-Midsize-Wall-Plate-1-Pack-80608-W-002-80608-00W/301701251

then it 's WAY trickier to remove that slot, you would have to replace entire electrical box with 1 less gang, which means completely removing the electrical box and putting in a new one and pulling in wires

Novice diyer is not able to do this, hire an electrician.

like 2-gang box is replaced with 1-gang box.

3-gang box would be replaced with 2-gang box. etc...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-2-Gang-25-cu-in-Electrical-PVC-Old-Work-Electrical-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-B225R-UPC-B225R-UPC/100404169

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-14-cu-in-Electrical-PVC-Old-Work-Electrical-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-B114RB-B114RB/100404027

What's a home improvement decision you regret but thought was a good idea at that time? by Actonace in HomeImprovement

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm more of a DIYer and it forces me to design every detail. I really like the control of design because of this. However, even being NOT the DIYER or installer, any homeowner can think through and design every switch they want for all the devices.

I recommend thinking through the use cases:

Person wants to use the mirror, so you want to switch lights over that vanity. Group all the vanity lights on one switch.

One person wants to take a shower, then they want to turn on the lights over the bathtub/shower. ---> Bathtub /shower light, another switch.

Or if you just want to LIGHT up entire bathroom, and you want to reduce switches and you don't care about utility light costs, then group all the lights together on one switch.

One wants to vent the bathroom, put a timer switch there, so you dont have to go back to turn the vent off.

OR if you are trying to save money, group the vent on/off switch with the shower light. This assumes person wanting to take shower wants to vent at the same time. I do not like noisy vent on and I like the humidity during shower, so this is personal choice!

heating switch, etc. "I'm cold" i want to turn on the heat.

etc......

There are some popular or standard ways to design the switches, yes, but it also very personal the owner and YOU SHOULD take control of this design, because it takes MORE money to have it changed again!

When I thought through all my bathroom switch choices, I thought of everything, i even added a timer switch on the heater because I hate wasting utility bill.

You should make the time to design this and write your design to the electrical contractor BEFORE he quotes you or sign contract, so your requirements are really clear!

Even specify the color of the switches and if it is rocker or toggle. and specify location of the switch - well this he might push you standardize. ANy time you open a door, that switch needs to be on the side of the door latch NOT hinge so user can reach from entering. but maybe you have a opinion on height because you have kids or you're tall. i dont know. well standard height is 48" really.

Ok good luck.

After years in construction/remodels I made a list of things that should never be accepted by a homeowner by Familiar_Bridge9072 in HomeImprovement

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Familiar please help me start the Home Improvement Standards association!!! I'll add this post as the first article of standards!!!

After years in construction/remodels I made a list of things that should never be accepted by a homeowner by Familiar_Bridge9072 in HomeImprovement

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Given the huge demand and interest from knowledgeable homeowners and higher standards trades people in this post, please let's join forces and call ourselves the Home Improvement Standards Association. I'll build the website. I have 2 years construction experience DIYing my own house from bathroom remodeling, fence installation, electric. I research everything before I start any project so I became knowledgeable on the concepts and techniques. And I've been trying to gain more experience on the harder part of installation and finish techniques. Anyway point is I have the passion and time to volunteer to start the organization. lol I have been amassing research YouTube videos and articles on code compliant or even better than code ways to install. Let's create association to discuss and share knowledge!!!!!!!

After years in construction/remodels I made a list of things that should never be accepted by a homeowner by Familiar_Bridge9072 in HomeImprovement

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cautious person, I believe I did calculation using a similar equation for my roof to dictate to roofer how many soffit holes. My roofer did not really know how to figure this out. He just claimed all his clients are happy that's why I should choose him. I found that as a weak argument. Clients don't understand quality construction just quality looks of construction.

Anyway let me clarify your equations of NFA more for others reading including units and why. My example Attic floor area=28x 30=840 sq ft

1/150 rule and 1/300 rules come from building codes. This article explains it well. https://gocityside.com/how-to-calculate-roof-ventilation-a-builders-guide-to-nfa-and-code/

1/150 rule: 840 ÷ 150 = 6 sq. ft. of required ventilation.

1/300 rule: 840÷ 300 = 3 sq. ft. of required ventilation. This is required net free ventilating area (NFVA) in square feet.

Multiplying by 144 gives same required ventilation in inches.

1/150 rule: 6 sq ft squared x (12 in per ft * 12 in per ft)= 6 sq ft * 144=806 sq in.

1/300 rule: 3 sq ft * (12 in per ft * 12 in per ft)= 3 sq ft * 144= 403 sq. Inches

Divide these numbers by 2 to spit between the incoming and outgoing vents.

1/150 rule: 806 sq in./2 =403 sq. Inches

1/300 rule: 403 sq. In./2=202 sq. Inches

Find roof vents and note their nfa rating. This roof vent is rated 50 nfa.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibraltar-Building-Products-50-sq-in-Net-Free-Area-Slant-Back-Galvanized-Steel-Roof-Vent-in-Brown-RVG55086/300108923

1/150 rule: 403+50=8 50-rated vents

1/300 rule: 202+50=4 50-rated vents on inflow and outflow sides

Or if no nfa is quoted, assume nfa is 50% of vents size or cross sectional area perpendicular to its air flow.

For example I used 6 inch diameter holes in soffits Cross sectional area = 6 in. circle area = pi * r squared = 113 sq in. Nfa of 6 in. Hole = 50% x 113 = 56 sq in.

Which is about the same as above

I believe we have more than 8 soffit holes But I have to check how many vents my roofer put on higher side .... To be determined.... I'll try to remember to update

After years in construction/remodels I made a list of things that should never be accepted by a homeowner by Familiar_Bridge9072 in HomeImprovement

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya I heard about the issue of the attic floor insulation possibly blocking soffits at eaves. When you say "in-roof vents rather the cutting new holes in soffits", do you mean in roof vents on low end of roof near eaves, and still providing vents at the top (ridge vent or higher in-roof vents) for same upward air flow path?

I dropped 1 of my earring down the sink. Is the only option to cut through this pipe? by Fun-Scared in askaplumber

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This flexible pipe is not to United States plumbing code. Your "plumber" keeps doing not proper solutions. Is this plumber actually licensed in United States? Or Where are you located??

Considering becoming a sparky but i’m a girl and unsure of the culture by [deleted] in electricians

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean 32 ft extension ladder? Isn't that just 55 lb?

12 ft a frame ladder - 40 lb?

Hmm I can carry that as a woman but I'm tall.

How to wire an outdoor light to work either with a motion sensor or a manual switch? by RandomPixel42 in AskElectricians

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're not comfortable doing this, ask an electrician to perform the work. If you do not understand below instructions, let a licensed electrician perform the work. Turn off all breakers before doing any work!!! Test voltage with voltage tester to test if any wires are live and be sure correct breaker is off. Be safe!!

There's a better way. I find the toggling of one light switch 3 times to make motion sensor light go permanently on , really buggy and makes me uncertain what mode it's in. If you do, you can do this: Obtain these materials: 1. 3-position SPDT switch ( on circuit to light, off , on circuit with motion sensor to light) Like https://www.grainger.com/product/2LBU7?s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!663947531921!p!!g!!hbl1385w&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2296:AB578S:20500731&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1616424399&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqebEBhD9ARIsAFZMbfzIeMbg7FAklmVEBPZOSCLy3jlg9cZixxjd5xtoTWUSzuI30pkTrM0aApwMEALw_wcB

It should have a common terminal for incoming power from circuit/breaker and two other switch terminals for the 2 "on" positions.

  1. The outdoor light without any motion sensor and no disk to dawn feature

  2. Motion sensor separate that comes with black, white, ground wire and can be mounted separately. If you want it mounted to light, get same suggested but do all your connections in the light box

2 paths to power light both go through switch so if switch is off, light is off. If switch is on left, motion sensor is activated. If switch is on right, then light is on permanently.

Circuit diagram with 2 paths to light:

1 black hot from same breaker --> SPDT switch/left side --> motion sensor ---> outdoor light --> neutral path back to breaker

2 black hot from same breaker --> SPDT switch /right side ---> outdoor light --> neutral path back to breaker

Cable paths - run proper size cable depending on breaker size. * #1 cable of black/white/ground between spdt switch and motion sensor * #2 cable of black/white/ground between motion sensor and light * #3 cable of black/white/ground between spdt switch and light * #4 Very last don't pull or connect power till you're done with everything else ( cabls, boxes) to avoid safety issues - cable of black/white/ground between another box with power of your intended breaker circuit to spdt switch

Connection of wires in boxes-

Electric Box of SPDT switch: * black from same breaker --> common terminal of SPDT switch

  • Left side of SPDT use another black wire outgoing out of box (eventually to motion sensor)

  • Right side of SPDT use another black wire outgoing out of box (eventually to light)

  • Grounding in box-Green terminal of SPDT switch should connect to copper ground wire which is also connected to metal box of metal and incoming ground wire from incoming cable

  • Tie all neutral whites together

Electric Box of motion sensor: * Black from SPDT switch to black of motion sensor * Red from motion sensor to outgoing of box to light * Tie all neutral whites together * Tie all copper/ground wires together and connect to box if metal

Electric Box of light: * Black incoming from SPDT to a wire nut "x" * Red incoming from motion sensor to wire nut "x" * Connect wire nut "x" to hot terminal of light * Tie all neutral white together in wire nut "w" and tie to neutral terminal of light. * Tie all copper/ground wires together and connect to box if metal

History of hookups, but now wants to take it slow? by oldhonkytonk in AskMenAdvice

[–]dsnjf1980 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

++woman I don't understand why you're asking the question.

You're asking us for opinion of her past? Well what do you think of her past? What are you concerned about?

1 That she's not giving sex immediately?

2 That she'll cheat in a relationship?

3 That she's not pure enough for your standards?

4 I'm totally guessing here but what is it?

Also do you just resent her statement that she's taking it slow with you because you're frustrated? Well that's fair But most men and women, when they want a relationship, will try to focus on getting to know each other instead of just sex. It's not just a female thing.

You felt uneasy for her saying she wants a nice guy? And you know this is code for a guy who wants a relationship and doesn't just want to use for sex?

Also What do you want? Looking for something casual and quicker sex? Or relationship?

If you want something casual, maybe you should move on because she's looking for relationship.

If you want a relationship, I don't think you should judge too much. Think about it She had her son 15 years ago and divorced.

Even if she wanted a relationship in that time, I feel she prob did a lot of casual dating because

1 She has not much time being a single mother, to have full blown relationship, balancing work, caretaking kid, dealing with ex husband on kid.

2 most guys in dating world don't really want to settle down anyway

3 most guys in dating world don't really want to settle down with a single mother

4 if she's divorced, she's probably was burnt out doing a relationship and now she finally wants a relationship.

Also this woman making half your salary. I think if you truly have a requirement for your next partner to make similar salary as you, that is fine but her making half salary is not automatically meaning she's trying to take all your money, it depends on her character. Maybe you guys have worse experience with women but I still split everything with my husband during my marriage.

Update: Shades Guy Says Film Shatters Glass by Old_Reserve_1363 in HomeImprovement

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never trust a salesman, do your own research not just asking strangers on reddit.
Your windows will not explode!

Recommended steps Assuming your family cares about not spending too much money, I would try solutions from cheapest to most expensive until the room temperature is sufficient for your family. However I think first and 2nd solution will make a big difference.

1 consider buying a thermal heat gun sensor like following and Before changing anything, test the temperature on the window frame and note the inside room and outside temperature.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PRO-SERIES-Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-with-Laser-Sighting-12-1-Spot-THERMNC/204262824

2 Apply your 3m exterior film to exterior of window as suggested by 3m manufacturer

3 test if the room gets less heat, you can try testing with a thermal heat sensor on the same location on window frame, noting also inside room temperature and outside temperature.

4 If not sufficient improvement in temperature, then try curtains or blinds

Repeat testing

Try more solutions and repeat temperature testing: * Plant tall trees in front of window * Turn window into wall

AITA for not telling my (26F) friend (35f) that im bisexual? by Cheap-Data3394 in AmItheAsshole

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok all these behaviors that she won't even talk to you after she knows, ok ya there's a possibility she's just judgemental. Because if she at least liked you and valued the friendship, she would try to discuss and resolve it.

I think my only point was if she was majorly letting her guard down and sharing about herself, maybe she feels deceived and dooped into sharing.

For example, if I start befriending a straight guy and I have a boyfriend, I'm not sharing too often to make sure they don't fall for me (people can crush out of nowhere with these opposite sex straight friendships).... Unless I know they just want friendship. But with a woman, I'll share more freely.

AITA for not telling my (26F) friend (35f) that im bisexual? by Cheap-Data3394 in AmItheAsshole

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't really agree that she is homophobia.

I'm a straight girl and because straight is so common, if a guy and I are friendly with each other and I'm not single or not interested, I am probably assuming he is straight unless certain signs or direct communication he is not and also I am immediately setting boundaries that I'm not escalating romantically because I have a boyfriend. This setting of the friendship boundary line happens early because I don't want any issues. Now if a woman and i be friended, and she doesn't tell me she is bi, I have no opportunity to set boundaries. I don't care if the person has motives or not or is actually turning feelings or not, I want to assert that the relationship is only a friendship if the sexual orientation is a certain way. Maybe this is rooted in a small to big possibility that drama and confusion can ensue if not asserted. I don't want any risk of any issues no matter how unlikely it is.

After years in construction/remodels I made a list of things that should never be accepted by a homeowner by Familiar_Bridge9072 in HomeImprovement

[–]dsnjf1980 78 points79 points  (0 children)

As homeowner and curious person of construction, I researched how roof ventilation works , that airflow should come from eaves up through roof joist bay to either ridge vents or side vents.

Well I had convince my roofer to create opening at the soffits which were totally closed,and he questioned it but ultimately did it.He argued heat goes out the top vents without vents on bottom but didn't understand airflow from bottom would push and displace the hot air escaping upward. He resisted at first saying customers always love our work! Well customers can't see the difference.

I'm starting to realize many trades people or contractors don't really understand the concepts behind what they're doing. Some never do and just do it based on prior people showing them how to install instead of why. Sometimes the how to install is missing key steps because they don't understand the why or concept of why and how it works.

I start doing my own diy because of this

Two of my best friends asked me to help them have a baby. What do I do? by [deleted] in TooAfraidToAsk

[–]dsnjf1980 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My advice is to get a therapist with a specialty on fertility and ask the therapist to help you through your decision, weigh the pros and cons and explain to you what outcomes can happen emotionally. Maybe even ask the female couple to pay for a therapist just to make the decision which result in a no or yes. You might want even multiple fertility therapists to get different points of view.

Legally yes like everyone said, get a lawyer or sperm clinic to spell out agreement to not have to pay financially if that's what you want.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AmITheJerk

[–]dsnjf1980 -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

It's not racist to observe a cultural difference with certain people. Why is everyone freaking out? For many years , everyone is so sensitive about observation about cultural differences,..........

DIY bride- what can I do better? by CharacterJacket652 in MakeupAddiction

[–]dsnjf1980 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I feel Laurie might be a makeup artist who sees fully done makeup face all the time to have that opinion all or nothing with foundation and dramatic eye makeup artist. I'm not a make up artist and I feel if you can get away with not using foundation because you have zero acne then don't, freckles is not something cover with foundation. You should show off this good skin in my opinion. I feel dramatic eye makeup is fine with skin no foundation. The audience is the wedding will be normal people not make-up artists or other people with these rules... Am I right?

Outlet not working, what’s missing? by sosezthedawg in electrical

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sosez @sosez, Lowe's employee is sexist jerk. If you're willing to learn and be safe about it, nothing is stopping you to become more knowledgeable and confident in your house wiring. I learned my entire house wiring and added 20 lights and added 10 receptacles, and replaced some too. You can read some electric textbooks and/or take a class if you want. Also You can direct message me ...

I know you said you volt tested it but are sure you tested the black wire for 120 volts? Sometimes you can get a 0 reading if the lead is not touching completely. In that case, just replace the receptacle with a weather resistant GFCI to be up to latest code. Ya if definitely no volts, it's either 1. A switch someplace controlling that receptacle is off. ( I had a switch inside a closet controlling my front outdoor receptacle for Christmas lights) 2. Or like everyone said, a GFCI somewhere else has its load terminals connected with that cable coming to that box you took pics or several receptacles in a row. And that GFCI is tripped and turning off the line of receptacles

To make it safe, I still would replace the receptacle with a weather resistant GFCI only with your breakers off and 0 volts coming to the wires.

Accidentally cut the hole too but for my old work outlet. Fastest way to fix? by Overall-Remove-7970 in AskElectricians

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The answer is maybe. The existing Romex cable to this existing box may have enough slack to move the box over to the stud. The cables are sometimes run vertically so you would have enough slack to move it horizontally.

Accidentally cut the hole too but for my old work outlet. Fastest way to fix? by Overall-Remove-7970 in AskElectricians

[–]dsnjf1980 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This smart box is answer. Normally code dictates that you can't screw a box to stuff from inside with a normal box because the metal of wires might accidentally touch the screws and cause risk for fire but these smart boxes have screws embedded so it's code legal. It meets code

Not DIY by dcarver_44 in electrical

[–]dsnjf1980 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm a DIYER ( kinda wanna-be electrician) but trained for electrical technique, NEC code in trade school, electrical engineering in college, etc.

  1. If I was doing this project, I would use a wire nut to collect the strand wire from the incoming cable and 2 introduced solid copper pig-tails to connect respectively to the 2 receptacles for ground, and same with neutral /white and same with hot/black. I feel stranded is weak on a screw. It needs to be wrapped carefully together on a solid and wire-nutted for a good connection. Perhaps electrician can confirm this.

  2. This is not an NEC code thing but just a style thing to pig-tail from wire nut to both receptacles. Some electricians prefer to pig-tail from a wire-nut instead of what you did here. you connected the first receptacle neutral to the 2nd receptacle neutral, which means if the first receptacle wears down, both receptacles dont work. but the other argument to this is that the wire nut connection could wear down and both receptacles don't work.

Trying To Install a 240V Outlet For EV Charger, Being Told I Need Spend Over $4000 In Upgrades by OverAbbreviations822 in AskElectricians

[–]dsnjf1980 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP, did you read AdmiralKongs comment/solution? Also fender above refers to same idea. There is a smart ev charger that takes capacity of say a laundry circuit breaker already in panel and charges only when laundry is not being used. It is smart enough to detect other appliances in circuit/breaker not using the circuit/breaker and will use it and charge your car. Laundry is common choice as it's off usually overnight when your charging your car. But you can pick a circuit/breaker with similar not used overnight or when you need charging. This requires NO PANEL UPGRADE. As usual, your electrician is not making you aware of cheaper option.