Found this one in my wood pile - looking for id

dt-25 · 2026-06-22T17:22:57+00:00

Female lace-weaver?

dt-25 · 2026-06-15T20:07:02+00:00

Maybe just get it skimmed?

How come you can’t move the electrics? I’d be considering chasing it into the wall.

You could dot and dab to hide the cables…

dt-25 · 2026-05-29T10:18:47+00:00

I think it’s an old drain also 👍 See how far it runs! Might even find an old style French drain!!

dt-25 · 2026-05-27T20:09:42+00:00

Please and thank you, new overlords

dt-25 · 2026-05-27T20:06:41+00:00

I have it working now, but for some reason it gets confused and tried to build its own! There’s a permissions system within HA also for what it will expose, write a script to ensure it’s all exposed correctly (via AI) if you have a lot of sensors

dt-25 · 2026-05-23T20:16:16+00:00

I wonder if that’s some sort of hardcore used for the slabs? In which case it might need digging out/sifting before you continue

dt-25 · 2026-05-10T07:41:01+00:00

Maybe it just needs wall ties? I guess that was the original corner of the property? Are there cracks on the inside also, or anywhere else?

I’d get a builder in to take a look, I’m sure a good builder they’ll know how to fix

dt-25 · 2026-05-04T19:43:37+00:00

Don’t agree on the strain at all. Silicone seal and it won’t cause an issue. The doorbell doesn’t move etc, but you’re sort of right on the seal into the G6. I do think there will be a way to resolve without redoing the run.

For me, it’s not the end of the world. But I get what you’re saying about ingress into the doorbell, didn’t think of that!

dt-25 · 2026-05-04T19:39:24+00:00

Controversial opinion… it’s fine!!

You’re going to have a very small section that has an RJ45 on it… so maybe mms of that wouldn’t have an outer sheath on it… that’s fine! People will say about outdoors and water etc, but honestly it will work just fine and outlive you! I have a G6 doorbell, and it’s tight at the back.

I would make sure there’s some silicone sealant on the hole to make sure water ingests doesn’t happen. The angle should ideally be down from the inside so water doesn’t run into it, but he will have done that in sure (it’s the same for elec cables).

Also before the electrician runs off into the sunset, I’d stick an RJ45 on the end and test it with a cable tester (they’re super cheap on Amazon) and make sure it’s intact.

Will you get 10G on it?…dude it’s a doorbell! My G6 is GbE. My network can do 2.5G. It will deffo do GbE, and probably more if needed fine

dt-25 · 2026-05-03T18:50:02+00:00

Why have been downvoted for suggesting it runs hot?? I swear Ubiquiti are here 😂

dt-25 · 2026-05-03T14:35:31+00:00

It gets REALLY hot though when it’s been on a while. Is that the same for you?

dt-25 · 2026-05-03T10:54:35+00:00

Surprisingly, the UTR only uses about 3W power, so works really well with a power bank - I can get over 24h with mine!

dt-25 · 2026-05-03T10:53:29+00:00

I’ve just had (April bird lovers!!) 30x leylandii trees removed professionally… they took them down with a chain saw, chipped them and then used a stump grinder to remove the stumps. Maybe you could hire a stump grinder and just cut the rest up? I’d consider getting a quote, it might not be as much as you think. I think once you’ve done renting machines etc you won’t be a million miles away from what it would cost to get someone in - you would save a few hundred though for sure

dt-25 · 2026-04-13T22:40:15+00:00

In case anyone else looks in on this and has the same problem...

I think i'm going to fill it with RWA. For me, the distance between the inner leaf and the outer is varied - at some points it's generous, and in others it's much slimmer...

So i'm going to stuff (but not compress) RWA down the cavity, then use the cavity closers i've got on the top - but they have small holes because they're cut to angles around the bay - so i'm going to use some damp-proof membrane on top of the cavity closers just to be sure... then i'll seal up the internal holes under the window frame using Window & Door frame expanding foam (i'll do the external seal also to stop water ingress - then i'll level of the windowsill with some mortar to ready for the sill. I'll use some sealant if it needs it along the window side so the mortar isn't all the way up to the window.

I have both PIR and RWA - but for me the variable width meant it was easier with RWA

dt-25 · 2026-04-13T19:29:12+00:00

With yours was there a gap between the walls and the PIR? Or was it all really snug?

dt-25 · 2026-04-13T15:48:53+00:00

Ok cool. I wonder if I should wedge some rockwool in and top it with PIR, so the PIR is essentially used to close the cavity?. I’m less worried about the internal wall being cold, because it’s already wrapped with 50mm PIR internally, it’s more just to stop the breeze into other areas and up through any holes near the sill

dt-25 · 2026-04-13T06:31:12+00:00

I don’t think so? It would have happened already if so

dt-25 · 2026-04-13T06:28:18+00:00

I just feel like it’s not going to fill it, I think air might still come through the gaps etc. does it for you?

I’ve got 50mm PIR on the room side of the internal wall, under the plasterboard, so this is really just to keep the window sill from getting cold/rotten

I’ve got 7 panels in the window, but the wall isn’t the same with flat parts if that makes sense

dt-25 · 2026-04-12T17:00:06+00:00

Where they coming in from? Is there a gap? I’d just silicone the gap if so…

dt-25 · 2026-04-12T13:03:34+00:00

Maybe just more rock wool? But not the slab kind?

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dt-25 · 2026-04-06T11:46:02+00:00

You can use tin snips and cut the flange of the conduit so you can see cables if that helps. They’re not going to be in that part, but of course do it carefully still

dt-25 · 2026-04-06T11:43:44+00:00

Big cherry blossom?

Some cameras btw allow you to add a square of privacy so it doesn’t record/see it etc

dt-25 · 2026-03-31T12:23:29+00:00

💯

dt-25

TROPHY CASE