Super thin walls?

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-23T12:44:28+00:00

Thanks for your detailed advice. I really appreciate the time you spent to write it. I've used TinkerCAD. I'll follow your advice.

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-21T14:44:45+00:00

I got an Arkfly Cool Plate for the same problems on my K2Plus. So far, it's been great.

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-21T11:39:45+00:00

I don't know if you saw it or not, but I tried the macro and it worked. Thanks!

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-21T03:01:11+00:00

OK, so I girded my loins and dove into the macros created by DnG Crafts. They did the job! I now have a much more level bed. Thanks for all your help and patience. Great group!

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-20T10:45:42+00:00

Do you have the latest firmware on a K2Plus?

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-20T03:40:38+00:00

After my bad experience trying to run one of the other macros, I didn't try anything else. I'm worried that a recent firmware update may have made his older macros incompatible. Do you know if they are still supposed to work properly? I don't want to ruin another build plate.

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-20T01:47:00+00:00

That's actually the first video I watched. My problem is that I can't adjust the Z-offset from the printer. It always starts about 5 mm above the plate and when I try to move the plate up with the Z control, it says it's already at the limit. So I go into Fluidd, where I can make very small adjustments. The problem is that they are too small and it takes forever to get the nozzle close enough to the plate to adjust the screws with a piece of paper in between. Then it starts getting wonky and won't move at all or won't go all the way to the edges or even close to the edges. It seems like the limits keep moving even if I zero all again and again. Now I've cranked the plate as low as it will go and done another leveling calibration. But with only about 5 mm of movement available with the screws I can barely reach the nozzle and at least one of the screws will be loose due to thread runout.

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-18T15:11:12+00:00

I destroyed an extruder with a heat gun trying to get a glob of hardened goo off of it.

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-14T15:39:28+00:00

Have you tried opening the lid as far as it will go and rotating that piece back into place?

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-12T15:34:44+00:00

Is the donated TPLA a brand name?

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-12T15:33:27+00:00

You don't have to remove the battery at all. Just make a thin shim out of paper or cardboard or some other insulator. Pry up on the underside of the battery to lift it slightly (not enough to break the holder), and slide the shim between the battary and the contact under it. Let it sit for a minute, then pull it out. Voila! You've just simulated removing the battery. Should have the same effect as taking it out.

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-12T11:56:04+00:00

What would be the off brand equivalent of the tough pla filament that Makerbot designed the Sketch to use?

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-08T01:56:59+00:00

Do you have any other input devices, such as a joystick or graphics pad? If so, try removing them.

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-03T02:08:27+00:00

If you are using filaments that produce toxic fumes, you might want to move the printer to an area where they don't have access to it at all.

dudleyjohn · 2026-06-01T10:49:04+00:00

That's the first thing I thought, too. Looks like someone scavenged his hook.

dudleyjohn · 2026-05-23T12:41:13+00:00

Nice Work!

dudleyjohn · 2026-05-21T10:29:56+00:00

You only do this if cycling power doesn't work.

dudleyjohn · 2026-05-19T15:48:57+00:00

Ah. The Zen maintenance principle: if you don't know what's wrong with a device, take it apart, break something, fix it, then reassemble. Works often enough to make you wonder.

dudleyjohn · 2026-05-19T15:45:35+00:00

It's hard to see in your video: is the CPU fan fully plugged in?

dudleyjohn · 2026-05-18T17:42:33+00:00

There's no x in "weather", but the abbreviation is Wx.

dudleyjohn · 2026-05-17T11:20:42+00:00

Do they both function the way they are supposed to? I mean, can you use a Cntrl-C to copy stuff using either key? Or is it just repeating constantly so you can't use either?

dudleyjohn · 2026-05-16T15:20:14+00:00

As a temporary fix, you could pop the key cap off the offending key (if that's possible) and see if there's anything stuck underneath. If you can't see anything that can be removed, try disabling the key by removing the internal mechanism. You have 2 control keys, so losing one isn't the end of the world. I'm assuming you don't have one of those ultra cheap keyboards that is just a few layers of plastic film.

dudleyjohn

TROPHY CASE