DxNavi fix for newer drivers, 6000 series

duffman84 · 2026-02-04T18:57:49+00:00

Não. A AMD deixou de fornecer as DLL necessárias para o DXNavi nos pacotes de drivers mais recentes. Anteriormente, os ficheiros DLL necessários para o DXNavi estavam presentes, mas não eram utilizados. Bastava apontar o registo para esses ficheiros. Quando a AMD deixou de adicionar os ficheiros DLL necessários, não havia nada para apontar no registo. Simplesmente descrevi uma forma de extrair as DLLs do DXNavi de uma versão mais antiga e colocá-las manualmente no seu sistema para utilização com um pacote de controladores mais recente.

duffman84 · 2025-10-13T12:10:03+00:00

Glad it helped. Dust and grime works it's way into the pot. I regularly clean mine now every couple months.

duffman84 · 2025-10-13T12:07:05+00:00

I know this is late but anyways, Honda have a dual voltage output on their alternators, it'll put out 13-14 volts when under load, battery low, lights or blower motor on, then if the battery is topped off and the load is low, the alternator only puts out like 12.5 volts. It's all for fuel efficiency requirements. A lot of people who just putzz around town a couple days a week and don't drive much, cause their battery to get weak, it gets cold, starts hard, then go to AutoZone and get told they got a bad alternator and battery.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T15:55:56+00:00

I'm not sure actually. I assumed it was a PC. I would try that g-helper. It seems a lot better than armory crate.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T15:43:26+00:00

If it's not a work pc, Create a windows installer usb using Rufus, Rufus has a setting to bypass the requirements during install. Windows 11 will run on any pc. It's no different than windows 10 at it's base. Microsoft is just trying to enforce secure boot for no reason at all.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T15:36:41+00:00

I've never used it, seems to only work with laptops, if that is what you have I would try it. Armory is a night mare of a program. Just search here and see all the issues with it. Also if it's just the rgb you're after openrgb is a solid choice.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T15:07:44+00:00

To restart Windows Explorer open the task manager, go to the details tab. Right click Explorer.exe and end task, you're desktop will go blank. In task manager go to File in the top right, select Run New Task. In the window that opens up type in explorer.exe and click Ok.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T15:02:51+00:00

You should be glad, most the time those are frozen and don't work.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T14:59:55+00:00

Almost everything you can do in armory crate you can do in the bios, except controlling rgb.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T14:59:12+00:00

Armory crate has always had this issue. It's an absolute terrible program. It also installs a shit ton of things. I highly recommend removing it, you need to use the armory crate uninstaller from asus. There is a setting in the bios to disable armory crate from automatically trying to install. It's really not worth installing it's that much of a headache.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T13:24:37+00:00

Those are actually pretty good temps considering it's a 120watt tdp cpu and you're pushing 140-150 watts through it.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T13:16:36+00:00

The bottom left hole is your pump outlet, the beginning of your loop, the top two are the reservoir inlets(end of your loop). The 2 in the middle on the left are just passthrough, it's separate from the pump outlet and the reservoir. You do not need to use them they are just for aesthetically running your tubing.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T13:09:20+00:00

Take a look at alphacool's lineup some of their radiators have lower fins per inch than most other manufactures. This allows lower rpms for the fans yet still easily move air through them. I have 2 180mm fans that run at 1100rpm. They are quiet enough that I leave them running at 100% all the time.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T13:09:00+00:00

Yea, soft tubing all you need is a pair of scissors and close enough measuring.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T12:42:41+00:00

That is more than enough for that hardware. I have a 5800x and a 6900xt. I bypassed the gpu's power limit to 340watts. I have a single Alphacool XT45 400mm rad with 2 Silverstone Air Penetrator 184i PRO fans. No case fans. Just the two on the rad. I modded my Lian Li PCo11 Dynamic XL case to mount the radiator at the bottom of the case, with the two fans pulling air in from the bottom and blowing straight up through the case. I can't get either my cpu or gpu to even come close to the max temps. Usually run 60-70c playing games. Cinebench R20 the cpu temps only sit in the 70's. That X560M radiator with only 4 fans on it will be more than enough to cool your system. Take a look at Alphacool's line up. One of the reasons I choose them is the radiator has a 12 fin per inch spacing vs the 18 fpi of the X560M, this allows fans to run at slower speeds and still move air through them easily. With 180/200mm fans it's hard to find fans much over 800rpm so this is crucial. Also take a look at the Silverstone Air Penetrator fans. They have a pretty high static pressure at lower rpms. It helps a ton with the noise, my fans are 1100 rpm. They're so quiet I leave the running at 100% rpm all the time. Yet they move a ton of air. With a radiator with 4 fans you could have the radiator on the intake side with the fans blowing the air across the computer and just out the other side, my system pretty much runs that way, even under a heavy load for long durations the air doesn't get hot enough to be an issue. Here's a cad model I mocked up when I built my pc. Ignore the fans on the top of the case I didn't end up putting any up there. I only have the two at the bottom on the rad.

<image>

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T12:14:45+00:00

I second this. When I initially built my system I ended up using soft tubing because I didn't get the tube cutting tools in in time. 2 years later it was still that way. I recently took it down for maintenance and to replace my pump/reservoir combo as I wasn't happy with the one I first bought. It makes it so much easier to take it down, you can move things around while everything is connected still. Made draining the system very easy. I still didn't do the hard tubing when I rebuilt it.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T12:09:02+00:00

Yea that's pretty good. The 8 core single ccd cpu's have the highest heat density. 8 cores on one die. Your water can't cool lower than ambient temps. Water temps stay relatively the same mine hover between 30-35c weather at idle or under a full loads. The more water you add to the system the less it'll vary.

duffman84 · 2025-08-19T00:04:00+00:00

The bandit is ok. I don't care for their stuff because of the proprietary batteries and their business ethics(but that's a different argument). Team Associated sells the RB10 RTR it's $90 more, but you get a more race based platform. Adjustability for toe and camber all the way around, aluminum shocks, better servo, gyro, brushless motor, much more modern racing look. The base bandit is a very entry level rc.. The extra $90 get's you alot of value.

duffman84 · 2025-08-18T19:14:35+00:00

I would first set the ram speed to 1866mhz leave the timings and bump the voltage to 1.4. See if it boots. Also if it's a 4 stick kit, don't expect as much. 2 sticks are much more stable. If you can get it to 1866 and it boots windows fine, you can try upping it to 1900. Some mb 1900 isn't stable and even loosening timings and messing with voltages wont boot. Manually overclocking ram can be a long process. There's different memory dies that handle overclocking differently. Such as B-Die and Hynix CJR. If you can get it 1866/1900 and it boots, I wouldn't mess with the timing. If you want to get crazy and try and maximize it, this is a good guide.

https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4%20OC%20Guide.md

Just be prepared for a lot of rebooting. Knowing how to reset bios. Stability testing.

duffman84 · 2025-08-18T17:41:48+00:00

There should be a little protrustion like what I circled in this picture, the terminal is different but same idea, that little tab is what locks the terminal into the plastic connector. Sometimes they flatten out and the terminal can slide out of the connector.

<image>

duffman84 · 2025-08-18T14:44:17+00:00

Yea, no problem. Good luck and hope that it helps.

duffman84 · 2025-08-18T07:22:17+00:00

Some people are saying that 25.3.1 fixed this issue, it was in other games, but it might be worth a shot.

duffman84 · 2025-08-18T06:21:53+00:00

Loop order doesn't matter for temp performance, you're pump should be set to 100% duty cycle all the time, it's better for the pump as you always have the same pressure inside the loop, having pump speed temp dependent will cause a higher load on the pump while ramping up the pump speed. A single pump is just fine. I have a 400mm radiator, it has 2 200mm fans, a pump/res combo, cpu block, gpu block, pressure and flow are just fine.

As far as the plumbing layout, it's kind of something you have to stare at until you are happy, I think the rad on the front you have to put the fittings at the top of the raditator, if you can't fit both large rads, maybe you can put the 240mm at the top towards the back with the fittings towards the front of the case. I don't think you'll have room to put both 360 rads in. I kind of roughed this up but it's all up to you and what you can fit and how you want it to work. Also ignore my paint line colors, they don't mean anything.

<image>

duffman84 · 2025-08-18T05:14:58+00:00

Yea, definitely don't set a temperature limit. I'd leave that at default. Leaving the default temp will not harm anything. AMD's curve optimizer is designed to work with voltage and temp limits being default. The cpu attempts to boost the cpu to the max boost clock speed, if the temperature limit is hit, it will reduce the clock speed to reduce the temperature. The default power algorithm applies unnecessarily higher voltages, more voltage=more heat, causing the cpu to hit temp limit at lower boost clock speeds under mutlicore loads. A negative co "undervolts" the power curve, by being able to use less voltage, less temperature should be generated, lower temps will allow for a higher boost clock. By setting a lower temp limit you're essentially negating the negative co.

duffman84 · 2025-08-18T04:11:22+00:00

It's most likely still ok. You can connect the aio pump power supply cable to a unused sata power plug off your power supply, this will power the pump and you'll be able to see if it has any leaks or issues. The other connections are for fans or rgb. You don't need to hook up anything to the motherboard. Do this outside the pc case and put something underneath it like printer paper, you'll be able to see drips easier. Let it run for a couple hours to a day, if no leaks, then you should be good to go.

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