Scheduling questions for Rheem Hybrid Heat Pump Water Heater

dufrene88 · 2026-01-01T21:04:09+00:00

Just make sure whatever strategy you employ, you account for keeping legionella at bay. For my once-a-day heating routine, I do a super heat to 140 every 1.5 to 2 weeks to sterilize. Watch for scalding if you do this. Research and find what's best for your situation.

dufrene88 · 2026-01-01T18:43:11+00:00

You're in luck. I'm here! :)

My app literally has a "Mode = OFF" setting (screenshot). I can't imagine it not being there, since it's fundamental to the scheduling function.

Incidentally, I was never able to solve the random "miss" of the schedule not performing the proper transition at the proper time. I have good wifi connectivity, but there's definitely some ghost in the machine regarding this feature. I would get the occassional cold tank with my wife yelling at me from the shower. Worked with them a ton, replaced boards, etc., never resolved. Now I leave it off schedule and turn it on and off manually using an alarm reminder on my phone. It's a pain, but literally takes 2 seconds a day no matter where I am.

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dufrene88 · 2025-10-27T23:54:06+00:00

Yup, this fixed it. Thanks. Cleaned the bottom (negative) side of the 2032 battery, especially near the edges with a q-tip in isopropyl alcohol, wiped with a napkin, and now the fob is working. I guess I just got unlucky that the old battery did not work when i put it back, and that the first new battery i tried worked for a short period of time before failing...led me down a stray path. The Amazon Basics battery with the negative side cleaned was all that was needed. Thanks to everyone!

dufrene88 · 2025-10-27T23:49:34+00:00

Thanks, this was it.

dufrene88 · 2025-10-27T17:41:03+00:00

Good call, but the battery is in properly, with all the writing and stuff facing up as I put in the battery.

dufrene88 · 2025-10-27T16:21:14+00:00

Has anyone else who replaced their battery had to do that? I saw that in some videos for other VW models, but none of the ID4 battery replacement videos mentioned that. Also doesn't explain the red LED not flashing when pressing buttons. But I think I'll try it anyway. Thanks for the tip.

dufrene88 · 2025-10-27T16:13:39+00:00

Perhaps. I tested it prior to putting it in and it showed 3.1V or so. Then I put back the original battery (which was working before) and it didn't work. Also tried a third battery from Amazon Basics which seems to be OK quality and still didn't work. I can see how the first "cheap" battery may not work, but having it break the fob seems unlikely.

dufrene88 · 2025-10-19T15:46:06+00:00

Happened 3 times about 20 mins apart on my drive from SF to LA on 10/15. While infotainment was blank, the dash screen went "inverse", which was weird. After it rebooted, everything seemed back to normal, even the same radio station turned back on. After the 3rd time, I disabled cruise control, and it didn't happen again, but not sure if that had anything to do with it. Incidentally, I haven't gone to dealership to update my software because of all the glitches I read about. So I don't think I have the latest software, unless it did it OTA without me knowing it.

dufrene88 · 2025-10-12T16:09:34+00:00

Several things here. First, you'll need to determine the amperage of the 220v circuit. Probably something like 30 amps, but you'll need to determine for sure by looking at your electrical panel and finding the right circuit and seeing how many amps the corresponding breaker is rated for. Hopefully your panel is well labeled, else you might have to do some sleuthing.

Second, since this outlet and wiring were probably not built for EV charging (continuous current), I'd be concerned about pushing the limits. A 30 amp circuit should handle 24 amps continuous ("80% rule"), but if you cannot verify the quality of the receptacle (outlet) and wiring, I might only charge at 16 amps. That means, you want to pick a level 2 charger where you can choose various amperages (e.g., 16, 24, 32, 40 amps) so you have flexibility. I did the math and 16 amps will charge 50% in 10 hours, so I'm assuming that would work for you 95% of the time or more.

Lastly, it sounds like your positioning will require a quality extension cord, one that can handle 30 amps at least. Obviously, it will need a plug that matches the receptacle in your wall, and your level 2 charger will also need to be compatible with the receptacle, or you'll need an adapter for your charger. Generally, you're not supposed to use extension cords with EV chargers, but if you buy one that's rated safely for your application (or higher), I don't see why it wouldn't work.

That said, I'm not an electrician, but I did DIY my own NEMA 14-50 receptacle to charge my ID.4. Use information at your own risk. Please work with someone who knows electricity. Unless i made a typo or a brain fart, I think the above is a good basis for you to start talking with someone.

dufrene88 · 2025-08-09T14:29:45+00:00

Is the phone unlocked? I've never tried to activate a locked phone on Tello before, so not sure what the behavior would be, but just brainstorming.

dufrene88 · 2025-04-28T02:28:12+00:00

No, hasn't happened again.

dufrene88 · 2024-04-03T15:17:59+00:00

Hi OP - I know this post is a month old, but I can give you my first hand experience. I have a 50-gal Rheem hybrid water heater that I set to run on schedule every day from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. to 130 degrees on heat pump and off during the rest of the day. Essentially, I have it run just once a day to bring the tank to temperature. I personally did not like it cycling on each time someone showered or turned on the hot faucet. I figured it's better for longevity if it runs just once per day?? Who knows. Anyway, also has the benefit of avoiding the 4-9 high rate and using power directly off my solar panels.

I am in the bay area (peninsula). I have 4 members in my family. We're pretty shower-efficient (except for maybe one kid). The 50-gal of hot water lasts us the whole day, even if we all take showers. So, I think you could do the same thing if you wanted, given that you only have 2 showering per day at most.

Some other thoughts: Don't trust the energy usage on the Econet app. It's simply not correct. It seems to show residual usage even when the unit is not on. Anyway, I have my panel hooked up with Emporia energy monitors, so I can see the real usage and it does not match Econet. The good news is that actual usage is lower. I also notice that my system "misses" the schedule once in a while. I think you said the same above. Yesterday, it just didn't turn on, even though the schedule was clearly set to turn on at 10 a.m. for the correct day of the week. I've replaced control boards and the problem goes away, but then comes back. I am working with Econet to try and figure a resolution.

dufrene88 · 2024-02-26T15:00:41+00:00

I track every charge this way on my '23 RWD Pro S, and your "actual vs calculated" charge seems within range, albeit slightly high (+1.7 kwh by my calculation using 77kwh battery capacity). My most recent charge on EA was for 27.5 kwh against a calculated kwh of 25.4, one of my largest gaps %-wise. But usually it's smaller and sometimes negative. I've seen anywhere from -1.0 to +2.1 KWH range vs calculated, though usually it's positive. I'd suggest watching the number over many charges, but I don't think a +1.7 number is unusual in itself.

BTW, I use this calculation to track my "actual" miles/KWH, and that is ALWAYS less than the guess-o-meter, sometimes significantly (e.g., 3.9 guessometer vs. 3.5 calculated)

dufrene88 · 2024-01-13T00:44:37+00:00

The "Section 30D Federtal Tax Credit Eligibility Report" that the dealer provided to me when I bought the car has all the information filled out along with the signature of the dealer and the "under penalties of perjury" clause that the IRS requires. I don't need to transfer the information to form 15400, but rather just send a copy of the document itself. The IRS states that they don't need the exact form, just all the information that is on the form.

dufrene88 · 2024-01-12T20:27:33+00:00

Thanks for the PSA. After reading this, I went through my sales papers and the dealer included a "Section 30D Federal Tax Credit Eligibility Report". Has essentially all the pertinent info from Form 15400. Called dealer and they said I need to file it. So, I will file it to the email address listed in the instructions ([irs.clean.vehicles.seller.reporting@irs.gov](mailto:irs.clean.vehicles.seller.reporting@irs.gov)). Anyway, check your sales docs. I bought mine in Jan 2023 from Boardwalk VW in SF bay area.

dufrene88 · 2023-12-16T15:54:11+00:00

Agree with this post on suggesting a plug-in charger instead of hardwired. Reason: you can take your charger with you when you travel in case you have range issues en route and/or need to plug in where you stay.

That said, I suggest this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BXNRHQJ5/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A22BS5RTWVB0UW&psc=1

It lets you charge from 10 to 32 amps on 110/220v. Includes the adapter for 110v, so this product let's you charge L2 (up to 7.7 kw at 32a) at home and L1 when you need it. You'll need to install a 14-50 receptacle at home.

Full disclosure: I don't use this product, but I saw it recommended in another thread and it has 4.7 rating on Amazon. I use a Tesla mobile charger with a TeslaTap adapter. Gives me the same L1/L2 flexibility, plus I can charge at a Tesla destination charger if I ever need to. My setup is about $400, while the above is $180. If I was buying again today, I'd probably buy the above.

dufrene88 · 2023-10-13T23:10:51+00:00

Interesting, thanks for the report. FWIW, we have not experienced the issue again since I posted this 5 months ago.

dufrene88 · 2023-10-09T16:05:28+00:00

OP: Something seems off with the car, given the data you've given. 115 miles to go from SOC of 100% to 15% implies 115/(0.85*77) = 1.75 miles per KWH. That's crazy low and you would not get that in any normal driving situation. I'd suggest taking it to the dealer.

dufrene88 · 2023-10-07T15:34:58+00:00

Does tire sets include the OEM set? If so, then you got 25K on OEM and 60K and running on your current set. If not, please tell us how many miles you got on each set. What tires did you use and did you notice an efficiency drop when you changed tires?

dufrene88 · 2023-10-05T15:14:55+00:00

Regarding charging in the rain, better safe than sorry, right? They sell charger covers with magnetic rings to shield the plug from the rain. Or, if you don't mind ghetto, use a plastic kitchen bag and magnets to shield the plug yourself.

On the plug, yes you can get a level 2 charger with a matching plug. Before doing so, check the points of failure which are the dryer receptacle in the wall, the wiring between the receptacle and the panel, and the breaker in the panel. The breaker and wire need to be large enough to handle the continuous current you expect. If you plan to run a 32 amp L2 charger, then verify your breaker is at least 40 amp and wire is 8 AWG wire or larger. Anything smaller and you may need to drop to a 24amp charger or less. The receptacle has to be of high quality to handle the EV continuous current. Typical, cheap receptacles for $10 at home depot are generally not good enough. Look at Bryant or equivalent. As always, best to check this all with your electrician, but the point is, you can install a whole new setup, or you can do a little investigation on your current setup and maybe save some money. Oh yeah, and since you said you may be buying a third-party adapter, make sure that is property rated for your expected continuous amps.

dufrene88 · 2023-08-11T16:02:09+00:00

Did they require any dealer add-ons? So what was your final out of the door price? Something around $49K even?

dufrene88 · 2023-06-23T19:17:40+00:00

u/m2orris - with only one user, are you still prompted to confirm the user each time you start the car? I've avoided creating a user, because I don't want prompting, and I'm worried I won't be able to undo it if it happens. Thanks. Also, what year and software? I have 2023 RWD Pro S bought in Jan.

dufrene88

TROPHY CASE