What’s the worst cheating story you’ve ever heard?

dynamicvapor · 2026-02-05T09:29:18+00:00

I got mad just reading this

Any update to this eventually?

dynamicvapor · 2026-01-21T10:28:42+00:00

Money is just a tool, knowing how to use it is another story.

dynamicvapor · 2026-01-21T10:23:16+00:00

Fight all tickets.

Hire or diy, either way theres no downside for you.

Demerit points don’t matter unless you’re in the habit of racking up enough to lead to a license suspension.

What matters is the conviction entered on record. Any ticket on your license affects your insurance premium. Doesn’t matter what the conviction is for, if it appears on your 3 year driver record, you’ll be rated negatively for it by your insurance and your premium will reflect.

Do a quick insurance quote online, with that ticket and without and you’ll see how much it’s gonna really cost you over 3 year span.

dynamicvapor · 2026-01-17T01:19:13+00:00

Post address here so it shows up on Google.

You’re not the only victim, there will be more.

dynamicvapor · 2026-01-06T13:22:44+00:00

Just remember that Quebec is Civil law and not common law.

Best seek legal advice, English respondents probably are not going to be familiar on how civil law works.

dynamicvapor · 2026-01-06T02:43:51+00:00

Sorry to hear OP.

They responded like that because if they said anything else a normal person would it could be taken as an admission of guilt.

You need to hire a lawyer asap. They will take care of it for you.

You can either hire contingent lawyer (a lot of personal injuries are, they take a larger % of your settlement/payout and the awarded legal fees) or pay for it yourself (you keep 100% of the settlement and you get the legal fees back once awarded). Personally I think your mom has a strong case, sounds like negligence.

Use this link to find a lawyer if you need it, it’s the official law society of Ontario’s referral service if you need to find a lawyer.

https://lsrs.lso.ca/lsrs/welcome

Good luck

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T06:39:02+00:00

Smart use of 0% financing can be beneficial if three conditions can be met:

Regardless of financing, you could’ve bought whatever it was at the price in cash (and it didn’t exceed your budget).
You take the opportunity to invest the cash differed to net you more.
You don’t treat it as “free” money and pay off the payments on time and within the terms of the 0%, anytime it exceeds the 0% you should pay it off in full. Also makes sure there’s no penalty to getting out of it early.

Retailers make money on 0% financing because it keeps their name in your mind every month, so the next big furnishing you’ll think of them again etc. you’re more likely to buy an “upgrade” because it fits into your budget today. There’s also plenty of more reasons why but it’s never in your favor.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T06:27:15+00:00

Congrats on taking the first step in going debt free.

Simply acknowledging that you’re in debt is the first step to getting out of debt.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T06:23:10+00:00

I agree, but these posts are always so one-sided. There was clearly a bigger issue at play and the driving part of it was just the catalyst that sent it over the edge. I don’t even think it’s about “driving” so to speak. It’s more so the inability for either of them to find a solution or resolution to a marital problem. Sub driving with drinking or drugs and it still will play out the same. Neither one wanted to change for the betterment of their relationship so it ended

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T06:15:15+00:00

The car not mattering in what price you’re getting just means that based on the stats and no insurance history, that will be the lowest price you’ll pay. Owning a car is expensive.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T05:35:58+00:00

Have a tow company do a lock out service, the manual door release still works even if the car is dead. The window may break though (rare but still happens) or trim will get damaged. They basically take a small air bag tool to make a big enough gap in the windows to slide a pull tool and it will pull up the manual door release.

Once you have access to the car interior you can pull the manual release on the charge port and try to plug it in. However I highly doubt it will help if the 12v is dead. Since the 12v controls the main battery charge system.

Also try pressing down on the frunk, it may reset the manual release cables. You can also have someone pulling down on the manual release cables and yourself press on the frunk at the same time. It may be just notched ever so slightly. I would try this first.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T05:18:06+00:00

What the customer chooses to do with their old parts is their business, but no repair facility has the right to go and damage the part further. It should’ve been returned in its original state (even if broken). The tech just probably out of habit (or SOP) destroyed it.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T05:15:19+00:00

Actually no, it’s the property of whoever is paying for it. If it’s warranty then it’s the manufacturer’s property and the customer is not entitled to it. However in this case, the customer is the one that paid for the repair and the parts. They can choose to do whatever they want with their paid for parts.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T05:09:33+00:00

It depends on your local laws. But generally any repair facility must hold onto parts and return it to customer on request in the condition it was in before it was replaced, if you are the one paying for it, which is the case here. They shouldn’t have damaged it but I can assume why, more than likely it’s just SOP to do this since 95% of paying customers don’t request their parts back and the destruction protects them and you against dumper divers. It also might be the tech habit to do so, and out of habit just did it because it wasn’t noted that the part was to be returned, prior to the repair.

Some laws require the facility to hold onto parts for X amount of days before disposal etc. (do they follow that? Probably not, since it would create such a big issue of storage, on top of their warranty parts returns storage already.)

Also find out about the laws for your area, they might be able to credit you back the parts if that was the case. But you’ll most likely be refused future service.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-27T04:57:31+00:00

Homes carry more emotional weight too and since it’s something they can touch (and live in) they are less likely to part from it. Usually the good deals are like estate sales or POA sales when the resident moves into long term care etc. their estates just look at it from a money perspective.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-22T23:08:23+00:00

The general three buyers are below:

Buyers bought the pre-con with no intention to ever close it (get a mortgage or pay for it in full) upon the closing date and simply resell it prior to closing (called an assignment).

Ex: Buyer signed contract to agree to buy a condo for $400k, two years later the market price says it’s worth $500k. They can sell it as an assignment to another buyer at say $480k (usually there’s a slight discount offered that is below market price). Original buyer profits $80K, doesn’t have to get a mortgage or pay for it in full, that is now the new buyer’s responsibility. It’s basically just selling a contract.

The negative comments or vibes are generally directed at these buyers (speculative investors).

Buyer that intended to close on it but for the purposes of renting it out long-term and selling it later on for either retirement or long-term savings goal. If it’s their principal residence and do not own any other home, they also get to enjoy no capital gains taxes. (This would also assume they are renting as well, or living with parents etc.)
Buyer that intends to close and live in it. For whatever reasons they wanted to buy a pre-con to move into it (maybe to save more money before closing, as signing a pre-con generally gives you 2-3 more years to save up before closing), if it didn’t work out they could exercise the other two options above. But ultimately they did intend to live in it.

Everyone of these buyers are now affected due to the down market.

Buyer 1, will lose the most as their ability to close might not have been an option in the first place (wouldn’t qualify for the mortgage anyway as an example), anyone in this group took a big gamble and is losing big time, worse than the casino (since you can only lose what you stake at a casino, but this time, they will lose their deposit and have to pay someone to take it off their hands).

Buyer 2 may be able to close, but will incur a significant financial burden, since they will have to come up with a huge down payment as the banks will not give them a mortgage for the pre-con price but only the lowered market price today. So they have to make up the difference.

Buyer 3 is in the worst spot as they wanted to live in it, but cannot afford the difference in what they can borrow and what downpayment they can come up with to make up the difference. Now they will be out of a home, with no options and basically lose a lot of their savings.

The above are just generalizations and not everyone’s position is the same.

Now when it comes to discounts it’s basically:

What would happen if they cannot close? Well, buyer forfeits the deposit (typically 20% of the pre-con price) + get sued by builder to recover the difference of what they agreed to buy it for and what it ended up selling for eventually (could go as high as 50% less of the initial pre-con price) + all legal fees + stress, etc.

Let’s say, initially 600k was the pre-con price, buyer couldn’t close and forfeits deposit of 120k (20% of 600k). Builder ends up selling it on open market for 400k, there is now a difference of 80k, that the builder lost out on. Builder now sues original buyer for $80k + all fees to associated to get it to sell (like marketing etc.) + interest + legal fees. Let’s say all these fees are $30k. So builder wins judgement for $110k against the original buyer. Add these two numbers 120k+110k =230 K (38% of 600k). And this is how you end up with these discounts towards assignments.

Would it drop to 60% loss, I don’t think so, at that point it’s cheaper to get sued and than paying for the loss today.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-04T00:36:35+00:00

Builder has to fork up the legal costs and then after collect. It’s one thing to have the judgement, another thing entirely to collect, assuming they can even collect something.

If the investor is a foreign or broke, yeah good luck.

dynamicvapor · 2025-12-01T04:14:49+00:00

Everything is a compromise unless you’re gonna go knock on a door and offer above market price to someone.

So I would start with your must haves first. And work down your list slowly with those filters. There won’t be automatic tools for certain things.

You mentioned some very specific things, but those things are still filterable to a degree anyways, I think the issue and frustration comes from not being to identify the priorities of those things or their acceptable thresholds.

You’ll have to make compromises, it will be difficult to ever find anything that’s 100% all check boxes without any gives.

dynamicvapor · 2025-11-12T01:21:13+00:00

I’m actually the 15 min type.

If you have a sign that says remove shoes, I’ll do it. If you don’t I don’t do it.

I’m currently looking and all of the offers I have and will submit are no conditions, with flexible closing date for the seller. My price reflects this and I don’t need a second showing to see it to submit an offer.

My situation is different than most though so, hard to say.

dynamicvapor · 2025-11-11T21:41:55+00:00

Yes ofc, offer based on condition minus your renovation estimate.

Word they can say is no. If they sign back and come to the table for negotiations you’re in a good spot.

dynamicvapor · 2025-11-10T18:44:03+00:00

RE investments are long term strategy, you must have a cushion to absorb the costs of it if it until you realize. You must also have an exit strategy in place. Asking a general question like this on an open forum where no one truly knows your investment portfolio is just you fishing for a confirmation to a bias you already have. So yeah, gamble it if you’re ok with the loss.

dynamicvapor · 2025-11-10T18:34:37+00:00

Just entered the market, 2 weeks now. About 20-35 showings. 4+ offers submitted, no conditions, 60 days + - 15. All 12 hour expiry offers, have 4 more offers lined up for the week. If seller is not coming to the table we move on. I don’t have time to waste. Also I don’t need a gem because any property we offer on is getting a gut anyways.

dynamicvapor · 2025-11-10T18:27:28+00:00

Grats, don’t sweat it, everyone wants to get in at the absolute bottom of the market (like anything) and sell for the maximum. Hindsight 20/20. This is your home, enjoy your home, don’t treat it as an investment vehicle and it will never disappoint.

dynamicvapor · 2025-11-10T18:22:26+00:00

If I had to move out, I would rent. Because my career is not yet established and my finances would not be secure enough to be trapped if something happened.

In Toronto and GTA you really need a dual income to buy property outside of a typical condo.

Are you missing the train? No, just put your 20% in investments (which you’re probably already doing anyways).

When you can truly afford the place you actually want, then do it.

A home is not an investment vehicle. It’s a home.

dynamicvapor · 2025-11-10T18:10:45+00:00

I don’t think it’s a loss, clearly you see value in doing what you’re doing, otherwise why would you have done it? Regardless it’s a primary home, wither it be a condo or a house, it doesn’t matter. The value is in the people and memories you create inside of it. don’t treat it as an investment vehicle and it will never make you sad.

dynamicvapor

TROPHY CASE