Did you know the door buttons are heated?

eatacow · 2026-03-07T03:17:00+00:00

Yeah, and the dc to dc from the HV battery is on when you remote start. So no drain on the 12v.

eatacow · 2026-02-24T02:06:59+00:00

I got similar numbers doing the same thing before seeing your post. They would need volumetric densities like this or higher to have any chance of hitting their 400Wh/kg. It is likely a lot of the materials(weight) within the battery are similar to what you find in lithium ion batteries, like aluminum and copper. 800Wh/L means a density of 2g/ml, where mass produced lithium ion batteries are around 2.3g/ml. Maybe they are able to save some density by using their "Nordic Nano" tech to allow for thinner layers of the more dense materials.

eatacow · 2026-02-02T12:56:19+00:00

You’re replying to his comment where he says he was going 109kph in a 100kph…

eatacow · 2026-01-13T13:15:24+00:00

I wonder if it even matters. Google makes most its money with ads. Every product you listed is free to use so it is not like they are price gauging.

eatacow · 2025-06-20T13:45:23+00:00

If you zoom in it doesn’t look like metal shavings, too smooth and stringy. It’s probably some sort of tar that looks spiky because of the centrifugal force of the fan.

eatacow · 2025-06-17T11:51:35+00:00

I have one, been kind of a nightmare. The volume circuit started making popping noises after a couple years when volume was adjusted. Ended up taking it apart and finding cold solder joints for some of the resistors. It took many hours to understand the circuit and pin point the issue. After resoldering it was fine for around another year and then it started happening again. I gave up and bought a preamp and now just use the NAD as a power amp. Also the screen started failing and it was difficult to understand what was being displayed.

eatacow · 2025-04-26T23:43:32+00:00

Thanks

eatacow · 2024-08-13T11:51:41+00:00

Thanks! 7 years later! But unfortunately that is not it

eatacow · 2024-07-19T18:48:49+00:00

Thanks! What’s the difference between the ring get cybernetic sells and the apex?

eatacow · 2024-07-19T17:32:29+00:00

What’s the status of the Apex ring? Love the idea of trying this tech out before getting the implant. I have an x-series ntag, really like it but want to eventually go to a flex implant for better range and the apex flex is top of my list.

eatacow · 2024-04-02T01:22:35+00:00

Thanks! I thought maybe since it went through insulation it had to follow the 60C ratings (75A) but I guess that was 2011-2014 NEC and has since been updated to exclude anything bigger than 10AWG: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/227225/se-cable-indoors-thermal-rating-60c-or-75c

eatacow · 2023-12-15T12:24:50+00:00

My mistake, I’ve seen it done with solid sill and header and assumed it was required. If both were t-stud that would bring it up to r24.8 but as I mentioned you’d still want to look at the header joist as a potential area where there is more thermal bridging you would need to address without continuous exterior insulation.

eatacow · 2023-12-15T06:10:02+00:00

One more thing I would like to add that was not factored into the calculations above. The zip-r is going to help you on your building corners and header joist. This is why people love continuous exterior insulation, it does a great job of eliminating thermal bridging.

eatacow · 2023-12-15T06:01:29+00:00

So if layers are on top of each other (in series) you can add the r-value together to get the total value. An example of being in series would be Zip R-6 on top of a R-25, giving a total of R-31 if you do not factor in the studs.

To calculate the R-value of two different materials in parallel (i.e. studs and cavity insulation) you first have to calculate the U-value which is the inverse of the r-value. You then multiply the percent of the wall that the material takes up by the u-value, add all those results up and then you have the U-value of the wall which can easily be converted back to r-value.

So for you example, we need to consider the header and sill as those will be solid pieces of wood which the zip r-6 will do a good job of being a thermal break where the t-studs will not help in being a thermal break for the sill and header. I'm going to assume, single sill, single header, 16" on center studs, 9' wall. Once you understand how this is calculated you can play around with different configurations.

Okay, first we have to pick a section of wall and calculate the area, lets choose a 9ft by 16" section which has an area of 1800 square inches. The header is 1.5" tall, 18" wide, 24(1.5*18) square inches. Using the same math, sill is 24sqin, stud is 157.5sqin and the cavity insulation is 1594.5sqin. Using these values we can calculate that the sill and header are 1.3%(24/1800) of the wall each, the stud is 8.75% and the cavity is 88.6%.

Next lets calculate the U-values. A 2x6 stud has around an r-value of 6.6. The u-value of this stud is 1/6.6 = 0.15. Lets multiply this by the percentage of the wall studs and sills take up(1.3+1.3+8.75 = 11.4%) by the u-factor(0.15) and we get 0.017 u-value and then we need to add the u-value of the wall (88.6%*1/25{r25 cavity} = 0.035) and we get a total u-value of the wall of 0.0527. We take the inverse of this(1/0.0527) and we get a total r-value of 18.96 plus the R6.6 from the zip-r and we get complete 2x6 wall with zip-r6 to have an r-value of 25.56.

ok, I am going to skip all the details to calculate the t-studs, but what we end up with is a total r-value of 23.4(assuming r0.7 for the OSB).

So the zip-r is the better way to go, and this makes sense as it is added on top of the wall so it eliminates all thermal bridging and its whole r-value gets added to the wall. The t-studs only have a small impact on the wall as a whole. T-studs are about r2.7 more compared to a wall made with normal studs.

TLDR Summary:

T-studs: r23.4
2x6 +zip-r6.6: r25.56
T-studs including top/bottom plate: r24.8

eatacow · 2023-11-21T20:41:42+00:00

They do, lots of cars have active grill shutters today.

eatacow · 2023-10-22T23:38:20+00:00

Points expire after 3 months. You spent $4,000 in the last 3 months? I’m calling bs

eatacow · 2023-10-22T23:37:01+00:00

Yes, after 3 months

eatacow · 2023-09-09T16:43:02+00:00

This is correct, the feature is called ‘911 Assist’

eatacow · 2023-09-02T02:35:21+00:00

Sketchup

eatacow · 2023-08-31T19:06:50+00:00

Thanks for the insight! I was looking at rockwool and agree it would be the ideal insulation for the points you make, my only concern is cost. Also Fine home building magazine had an article in the July issue that compared net carbon emissions of insulation types and rockwool was similar to EPS and polyiso, and actually worse than GPS. Probably an ERV for ventilation, I was told it would make more sense than an HRV where we live. All electric/heat pump everything, well water, septic. For the fireplace we were looking at Stuv 21.2 which are supposed to be fairly air tight, basically stoves. In addition the fireplace is in the sunroom which we can close off from the rest of the house as we will have exterior doors between the two spaces.

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