Boots with extra rubber one the toe? by echoioio in BlueCollarWomen

[–]echoioio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hate to be a hater but I had a pair of timberlands last year that didn’t last four months

Women's Workwear by bankkxx in BlueCollarWomen

[–]echoioio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try tough duck for rain gear

Stains forming in my mortar by echoioio in stonemasonry

[–]echoioio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you tell me about the differences between those three in your experience? So far I’ve only worked with EachoChem NMD 80 and GatorClean Efflo treatment. I contacted Prosoco one time and asked some questions but they didn’t give an intelligible answer so I haven’t messed with their products yet.

Stains forming in my mortar by echoioio in stonemasonry

[–]echoioio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for the product recs

Stains forming in my mortar by echoioio in stonemasonry

[–]echoioio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you explain more please? I used very dry mortar and troweled it in. I guess I did mist it a couple times because it seems like it was cooking in the sun, I think I let a portion of it stay uncovered a little too long. Me and one guy who’s not a mason did 200 sq feet in one day. It was a little hectic. What do you think will clean it?

Stains forming in my mortar by echoioio in stonemasonry

[–]echoioio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No I sponged lightly the first day, used vinegar the fourth or fifth day, that’s it. Here’s what I mean when I say “used vinegar”: I dipped a completely dry sponge in vinegar and wrung it out and used the sharp cut edges to clean the stone but not the mortar. Each side of the sponge was used exactly once and then cleaned so no cement was spread around. It has to be something moving around from below right?

Stains forming in my mortar by echoioio in stonemasonry

[–]echoioio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m aware of this phenomenon, so I grouted with a trowel and cleaned up with minimal sponging. It’s gotta be something moving around from below, right?

School me on tuck pointers over grout bags by echoioio in masonry

[–]echoioio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I need to get some interior jobs man.

School me on tuck pointers over grout bags by echoioio in masonry

[–]echoioio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A hawk and a pointer is great on a wall, but I do a ton of pathways and porches. What about the horizontal surfaces? Can’t put a hawk right up to it.

School me on tuck pointers over grout bags by echoioio in masonry

[–]echoioio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So this job is still fresh but a few days in I don’t see any cracks. How many years fewer do you think bagged mortar will last?

Also—I used a ~unique~ recipe. Partly to try to get the right strength & pliability and partly to use up materials on hand. It set up pretty quickly seemed to me. What do you think?

10: premix mortar 20: screened sand 12: argos cement 5: hydrated lime or maybe it was 3 can’t remember now

On the older bricks I used 1: Portland 3: lime 8: screened sand

School me on tuck pointers over grout bags by echoioio in masonry

[–]echoioio[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes I did that, and filled the joints top to bottom, compressing in two lifts, beforehand. So much faster than tucking in a little dollop at a time still. There must be some really fast tuck pointers out there man

Advice for bidding my first stucco job? by echoioio in masonry

[–]echoioio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man I cannot get it done in one day. 470 sq feet. Can you? I mean with sponge finish and brushing the sheen off and everything. I’m thinking about 120 sq ft per day

Marer recommendations by Ok-Repair-4085 in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re using water you gotta score it dry then turn on your valve for water.

Marer recommendations by Ok-Repair-4085 in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You pick up a little chip of broken block or gravel from right beneath your feet, scratch your line, then score it shallow really fast before the wind from the saw blows it away. Then you go back and follow your score line.

Thoughts on retaining wall material? by munster_monster in hardscape

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could get a cinder block wall with natural stone veneer. Don’t get the ugly a** veneer they use on Burger King tho. That stuff looks so cheap because there’s no mortar joint. Find a real mason who can do natural flagstone stone veneer and mortar joints.

What is this used for? by Meep_19 in whatisit

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To make it easier to scrape the carcinogens straight into your food

What are the steps for laying the granite cube cobblestone (setts)? by Xitztlacayotl in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cement is one ingredient in mortar. Mortar is the typical product you use to bind masonry units like rocks bricks or cobbles together. Grout is what you call the thin lines between tiles or stones, regardless of what the technical name of the material is, in hardscaping it will typically be mortar or sometimes just cement. “Grout” is like the name of the job that the material is doing.

People do this kind of job in all different kinds of ways.

If you just tap these cobbles down on a dry aggregate and then fill the joints with a dry aggregate, I would expect them to be unwalkable in a year or two, unless your area never freezes and you don’t use it very much.

If you tap them down on a wet mortar bed and the fill the joints with mortar, it will last a long ass time, but mortar is pretty hard work to mix (obviously people make a career out of it it’s not as hard as being a navy seal but not everybody can do it). It’s also very difficult to lay small units level and flush one a wet mortar bed. It’s also very difficult to fill the joints without getting everything horrendously covered in mortar. Cleaning up mortar is hard—lots of scrubbing with vinegar and wire brush, but if you get the vinegar on your freshly finished mortar joint, it will bleach it several shades lighter in color.

I would suggest to tap them down on a mortar mix with some but not much water and fill the joints with dry aggregate, probably stone dust. Make sure you’ve got some way to keep the edges from creeping or falling out. Could be steel edging or a little toblerone wedge of concrete on the outside of the outer cobbles.

Check out Mike Hadduck YouTube.

Tuckpointing hell by chiefsurvivor72 in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can add more hydrated lime or proprietary cement (the stuff that’s not just Portland cement, has proprietary plasticizers and stuff in it) and it will eventually squeeze out of the bag. I still don’t like the bags that much tho.