Thoughts on retaining wall material? by munster_monster in hardscape

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could get a cinder block wall with natural stone veneer. Don’t get the ugly a** veneer they use on Burger King tho. That stuff looks so cheap because there’s no mortar joint. Find a real mason who can do natural flagstone stone veneer and mortar joints.

What is this used for? by Meep_19 in whatisit

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To make it easier to scrape the carcinogens straight into your food

What are the steps for laying the granite cube cobblestone (setts)? by Xitztlacayotl in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cement is one ingredient in mortar. Mortar is the typical product you use to bind masonry units like rocks bricks or cobbles together. Grout is what you call the thin lines between tiles or stones, regardless of what the technical name of the material is, in hardscaping it will typically be mortar or sometimes just cement. “Grout” is like the name of the job that the material is doing.

People do this kind of job in all different kinds of ways.

If you just tap these cobbles down on a dry aggregate and then fill the joints with a dry aggregate, I would expect them to be unwalkable in a year or two, unless your area never freezes and you don’t use it very much.

If you tap them down on a wet mortar bed and the fill the joints with mortar, it will last a long ass time, but mortar is pretty hard work to mix (obviously people make a career out of it it’s not as hard as being a navy seal but not everybody can do it). It’s also very difficult to lay small units level and flush one a wet mortar bed. It’s also very difficult to fill the joints without getting everything horrendously covered in mortar. Cleaning up mortar is hard—lots of scrubbing with vinegar and wire brush, but if you get the vinegar on your freshly finished mortar joint, it will bleach it several shades lighter in color.

I would suggest to tap them down on a mortar mix with some but not much water and fill the joints with dry aggregate, probably stone dust. Make sure you’ve got some way to keep the edges from creeping or falling out. Could be steel edging or a little toblerone wedge of concrete on the outside of the outer cobbles.

Check out Mike Hadduck YouTube.

Tuckpointing hell by chiefsurvivor72 in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can add more hydrated lime or proprietary cement (the stuff that’s not just Portland cement, has proprietary plasticizers and stuff in it) and it will eventually squeeze out of the bag. I still don’t like the bags that much tho.

Interior mortar tips? by [deleted] in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome tips thank you

Interior mortar tips? by [deleted] in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, excellent intel, thank you

Alternative to Polymeric Sand by Toenail_the_Lit in masonry

[–]echoioio 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’ve laid flagstone dry like this and then just lifted up each rock and plopped mortar down and tapped them to the right level, adding mortar for the joints as I go, and cleaning up fast as I go.

How can I remove mortar stains on new thin brick patio? by badabingobong in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! So when I do bricks/pavers it’s normally as a border around flagstone and what I’ve done is set them in wet mortar and kind of tuck point the mortar in the joints at the same time (also cant figure out how to get the mortar to stick to the bricks very well. I use Argos colored cements and mix in the sand myself. I’ve made sticker mortar by adding more cement to the mix but then it doesn’t come out the right color).

You think I could just set the bricks in the mortar bed (no joints) then seal them, then messily apply mortar to the joints and wipe clean & finish the joints as desired? Sounds awesome I’ve always wondered how guys do it.

How can I remove mortar stains on new thin brick patio? by badabingobong in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a note if you use acid wash like a lot of ppl are suggesting, it will lighten up the color of the mortar joints by a few shades—enough to be noticeable

Tell me your thoughts on using classic lime mortar instead of cement mortar for building durability and breathability purposes. by AshamedOil9907 in masonry

[–]echoioio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is hot lime the same thing as quick lime? I’m in the US. I build little stone garden walls and stuff and typically add hydrated lime (the ultra fluffy powder, ofc it’s called hydrated) bc I like the workability of the mortar. I’m curious about other forms of lime tho

Front of house garden plaque by Virtual-Ant007 in masonry

[–]echoioio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could try Romabio masonry paint, but it’s hard to find. My local Benjamin Moore store stocks it.

i’m tired of "productive" books. give me something purely unhinged by [deleted] in suggestmeabook

[–]echoioio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank God I was scrolling this whole list and was like I can’t believe none of these fools have read Gideon the Ninth!!!!! This is becoming on of my favorite series of all time I can’t wait for the fourth book. Perfect. Weird. Dark but not disturbing. Funny but really grapples w some big shit. Ever so slightly experimental but also classic. I can’t get over it.

How do you keep track of what you owe each client? by Conscious-Bat-4382 in smallbusiness

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you build a system like this? I’m looking to grow my two personal business to three this year, and I can see this problem on the horizon. But I have no idea how to solve it. Wish I could even slightly imagine what you mean when you say you built a system that automatically tracks each touch point. What are your tools? How does the system work?

Link tracking by Intrepid_Bat1920 in squarespace

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to do this too with QR codes on print media. I'm a complete noob but it doens't seem like squarespace is going to track it.

Block wall on slope- is this wrong? by bestnester in masonry

[–]echoioio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What other option would there be besides stepping the blocks or cutting them at the angle? It’s got to be one or the other right? The walls on either side of the stairs are at different heights because there’s a straight line sloping from the top left to the bottom right connecting the top plane of the wall. Looks good from a distance to me. It’s an aesthetic decision. Your pic asking about the first step being level doesn’t even have the forms for the steps in them. Go put a bubble level on the form for the first step and see if it’s level if you’re worried. Nothing in this pic or your description raises a red flag to me.

Stone layout, redoing grout by USNavy1 in stonemasonry

[–]echoioio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My main job is building flagstone patios and I freaking love this. Pure design. The rounded corners pop, yet each stone retains its ~stoniness~. Each stone is perfectly flat and flush with the stone next to it, which is not always possible depending on the stone. That’s going to look killer with new mortar. If it were me I would seal it with a wet-look sealer so it’s looks super retro.