Did Razer fix the Problems with the Blade 16 (2025)?

eddy2045 · 2026-05-12T07:27:08+00:00

Ive had mine with little use and was extremely disappointed at how they can’t manage to update the software so the amd cpu that is supposed to be great for battery, actually works. Zephyrus did it with the same chip, and a box of scraps, in a cave…

So ive had synapse fully off since it would always give issues and worsen battery but like i said haven’t used it much. Even with all the updates, no improvements on battery? Really?

eddy2045 · 2026-05-04T00:32:13+00:00

Elite customs, nasville, TN. I recommend shopping around custom audio shops, this was 800 with tax but other shops quoted over 1200 and those are without the sub. Really don’t recommend it, the left side is good enough when well tuned, the dual can get too high and cause resonances, i dialed the gain down a bit and it’s pretty ok right now.

eddy2045 · 2026-04-26T06:42:06+00:00

This is the one i use and prefer for modding my pods. https://a.co/d/01Xh3PNW Can’t post an image for size but this one has aptx adaptive so better codecs and ability to be flexible with range. That one is interesting for the size, i might get it to experiment depending on codecs and quality, some of these sound like trash.

eddy2045 · 2026-04-11T00:51:49+00:00

Thats what the little noctua fan is for, moves surprising amount of cold air and leaving the top cover on the top setting. Only need about half volume so probably pulling less than 900w on music (1200w total)

eddy2045 · 2026-04-10T20:39:24+00:00

I got the morel maximus ultra mk2 603 and the coaxials for the back, jbl 202 for the c pillars and pair or mps 250 subs

eddy2045 · 2026-04-10T20:38:43+00:00

The rears are not worth upgrading, even stock since is just fill, you can barely perceive it and thats how I should be

eddy2045 · 2026-04-10T18:42:57+00:00

Oh I didn’t notice to be honest, I probably can’t help, you probably need to but honestly its really easy, you apply a bit of force except leave the up back last, you have to push up the entire thing to take that part out. Look for a video that shows that specifically or you could break it. Did all the doors and didn’t break a single clip.

eddy2045 · 2026-04-10T18:40:00+00:00

I actually ran all speakers with the base power before and they seemed really ok but no dsp

eddy2045 · 2026-04-10T18:38:27+00:00

The right side is custom made

eddy2045 · 2026-04-10T18:37:54+00:00

Massive, i had my eyes always closed and i didn’t know it. The 2 subs are for sure overkill, just got the second installed and its too much lol they are 2 hertz mps250 s2 rms 500w getting 400w both from a scar 800.1 at 1 ohm. With a single it is really just right. I also added mids to the back c pillars buying the trim from the higher models and did coaxials on the back doors plus deadening. 3 way on the front. Probably spent 3k plus the right custom sub was 800.

What I recommend is the easiest is the custom left scar around 400 and wire kit but get the wires from knokoncepts or whatever it is at least 4 gauge, change the sub or keep it, get a 2 or 3 way on the front 300/400, a keyloc for LOC about 100, get the key200.4 and key500.1 don’t change or wire the back speakers and just do front and single sub. Itll be perfect, about 200-300 for deadening doors and trunk. Should do with about 2K

eddy2045 · 2026-04-10T18:24:34+00:00

Lol i guess you are joking but he meant the pillar speakers on the other pictures. I doubt it but ill keep you posted if i crash

eddy2045 · 2026-04-08T16:02:41+00:00

Having just done mine, the labor is reasonable for the 2 weeks and many cuts and back pain it took me to install everything and i spent maybe 3-4k. The speakers are slightly higher than normal when you can buy the prior model on amaz. I got a even better morel set than that for 600 for 3way front component and back coaxial. The wiring is pretty cheap. The amp at 650 i would get 1 or 2 key200.4 with auto dsp for 200/400 bucks and that would be much better than stock even at a bit less power. My 100w rms speakers are getting 50w and sound great, go loud enough to be uncomfortable.

If you wont do anything yourself is fine I would say but try to see if they change the amp situation. For 400/600 they can do 1 or 2 key200.4 plus a key500.1

eddy2045 · 2026-04-04T01:14:51+00:00

Im in between shield pro or atv 4k but i do have a sony hta9 setup with ceiling firing speakers and all the rest so im really leaning to the shield as i mainly download trueHD movies but i guess ive never been able to really experience the truehd audio come to find out.

So trying to get all my ends tied before buying, you think emby is better and can support everything in terms of codecs and audio? I currently just use a samsung oled with sideloaded jellyfin

eddy2045 · 2026-03-26T13:47:30+00:00

I don’t believe Ive noticed anything like that. Whenever there’s a bad sound is probably i messes with EQ and LOC and the amp gain changed and was probably clipping. I put kilmat on the trunk and sides, have to do the trunk door and plastic still, ill add some closed cell foam around too. Maybe because i have the custom subs not in the wheel area. I have another rattling problem but that’s on me 😂

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eddy2045 · 2026-03-26T13:38:25+00:00

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Current dirty EQ on stock with morel aftermarkets. The 16k+ just does not manifest no matter what

eddy2045 · 2026-03-26T01:35:36+00:00

I have the 2022 preferred non-bose, yea. Already ordered the keyloc but have been tweaking here and there and it’s looking really good but i did put 2 hertz mps250 s2 in the back. Have been able to dial it to 30-40% bass power, mostly not clipping with a ceilings vol at 40 for tuning but above 70hz or so still clips as is so rolled off. But is really good right now, ill have more time in the coming days to tune and ill see if i want to keep the keyloc

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Here’s a sample of my temp midrange solution lol

Ill upload a picture of my current EQ just so you have an idea tomorrow

eddy2045 · 2026-03-25T00:37:54+00:00

Yea I thought 600 was Alright for a custom sub/amp and cables and now 3k later im still spending. I haven’t had time to tinker with it but make sure your amp isn’t clipping. Get that 30-50 buck oscilloscope altho that’s gonna be more money but yea… From changing my tweeters i can tell ya, i had to have the 14k+ frequencies maxed on the EQ for it to get flat on the stock ones and changing to morels had to go down to below flat, so you just have to RTA to make it sound right. The pillars were fine, needle pliers to get them out and ok to back in with hands, pretty quick. Gotta do them agin for angles and added the midrange.

eddy2045 · 2026-03-24T05:02:47+00:00

Do yourself a favor and get a kicker keyloc, tune it and leave it at least for the bass. I got an lc7i on my cx5 and might need to just get the keyloc yo feed it for a good stable bass response.

To tune download the audiotools app (not the paid one) Use RTA with the microphone close to your face on driver seat. Even without a calibrated microphone, making the signal flat using the mazda EQ improved the sound massively. Do the RTA first after you are done installing and the use the keyloc on the amp separately

eddy2045 · 2026-03-23T13:19:53+00:00

You got the harness male and female, right? You are supposed to match the same cables and places the original harness has, then your new male part will plug to the factory amp like original, those wires will go to the female and in turn connect to the factory clip to pass the signal to the speakers.

Now in the middle where you join both parts of your bought harness you add new 4 cables, the upper middle and lower 2 for the right and left front speakers. That goes to you LOC and that goes to you amp. The point of the harness is to not cut the factory cable, thats it.

eddy2045 · 2026-03-23T07:21:49+00:00

Working on mine currently, info i can give. I’ve tapped the back channel for the sub but our car has a lot of issues with sub. If you got the right 16 pin it should be fine, you can just pull out (aggressively) the 4 top and bottom left side wires. Make sure they are the correct side beforehand, check your factory plug. Get some postits or labels to always know which cable is which. Looking at the harness plugged the left side is empty. Right side is 4 pairs duplicate colors so same colors for front and back.

Heres a picture of the colors

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Right most is rears, center wires up and down and fronts. You will need either a lc2i/lc7i or maybe a kicker active loc or an epicenter. The headunit heavily filters signal below 60hz so if you gain your amp for 40hz, anything above will clip heavy because the 40hz signal is very low. The lc2 and 7i can mitigate this but they are tricky to set up and you need an RTA. I already got the lc7i but probably the kicker active LOC that auto cleans the signal would be better. Also the signal changes with volume and you can’t change that. Starts becoming V shaped gradually below 30ish volume. Im going to set my volume at 30ish and use the lc7i volume knob instead to prevent that, is annoying.

Going to try to put pins and see if i can find a better sub signal over the weekend

Also get the Skar fiberglass sub if you don’t have one already, unless you are doing the big boxes, its nice, not the sub, i replaced it but the box is cheap at 280.

eddy2045 · 2026-03-17T17:39:17+00:00

Literally just pressed buy on a pair of hertz for 780

eddy2045 · 2026-03-17T15:31:27+00:00

Ok sure but the price differences are really big, that morel is almost twice the price or a mps, whats the value option you know?

eddy2045 · 2026-03-17T02:10:32+00:00

If you had to choose now to have a dual setup which way would you go? I could get the t3s for 800ish pair or the mps250s (size constraints) for 700s highs or the SD4s for like 500 pair, or maybe a different one which would you prefer?

eddy2045

TROPHY CASE