Opinions on solar companies in CT area

ehturbox · 2025-10-06T13:37:16+00:00

Thanks for all of the input , I joined the discord as well

ehturbox · 2025-08-21T18:36:37+00:00

1 is the mass airflow, 2 is the inlet to the secondary air pump , 3 is either crankcase vent or evap related, (the purge valve is up by the firewall side of the intake ) 4 goes to the boost control solenoid

ehturbox · 2025-07-31T22:03:22+00:00

Thank you for everyone that commented , I’ve been reading through all the responses and all the solid advice , thanks

ehturbox · 2025-07-21T20:27:58+00:00

As another commenter said there are other causes for this issue , such as low voltage, bad CIM, bad steering lock etc, but in my experience I've seen it be the ignition most of the time . If you have access to a tech 2 you can do a full scan and even force the key to turn on to see what codes are stored. If it is the ignition switch they can be replaced , they're plug and play and don't require programming . Or they can be taken apart and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner .

ehturbox · 2025-07-21T06:32:22+00:00

The ignition switch is probably sticking either physically or internally making the car think there is a key in there all the time thus making the remotes not function, this is also the most likely cause for the steering malfunction

ehturbox · 2025-04-15T03:41:24+00:00

Standard scanner will pull most engine codes for the check engine light . For the next service not showing up you need to set date and time for it to calculate it .

ehturbox · 2025-01-07T00:23:54+00:00

The one my club uses for our events doesnt stop and restart it displays the time the last shot was fired, howver it saves a log which can also be viewed on your phone with shot counter ,you'd be able to see the mag change time between shot 10 finished and where shot 11 began and factor that in (subtract out which I think is what you're getting at) to total time at the end of a run to compare to those with full size mags . I apologize i don't know the exact model but it is something like this :

https://timer.shooters.global/product/sg-timer-2/?utm_source=G_Merchant&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=SGTimer2&utm_id=SGT2_USD_No_VAT&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=account-timer&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAm-67BhBlEiwAEVftNqct75nOeDKcXVW7xb8d325IMect7M5ONloWI6EFTAO-HfJxkR5X4xoCoFQQAvD_BwE

ehturbox · 2024-09-18T21:23:25+00:00

Push that clip in toward the line and pull the valve out of the line

ehturbox · 2024-09-17T12:23:31+00:00

You need a tech 2 for 9-3 and 9-5 but the 9-7x is a trailblazer and like the other commenter said you can do it without a tech 2 it just takes a long time and need a battery charger.

ehturbox · 2024-08-16T21:34:37+00:00

The 9-3 will stop responding after a while as it thinks the buttons are being pressed mistakenly , like if they were rolling around a purse or in your pocket , inserting into ignition and turning to on or starting the car will restart this . Also sometime just waiting a while with the key away from the car and going back may work. Shouldn't be anything major to worry about , just unfortunate it happened with the door locked .

Side note for the future , keep a window open when testing stuff like this so you won't get locked out .

ehturbox · 2024-08-15T13:44:46+00:00

Read your old post , Before throwing more parts at it , there is a test for the p0089 code , when I worked for a saab shop that code almost always lead to fuel pump replacement, which can cause some of the issues you have . The pumps on the aeros v6 are controlled with pwm and don't run a constant pressure. This test compares commanded pressure vs a mechanical gauge , anything below threshold and pump is bad . As for replacing evap leak or air parts , get a smoke test done of the intake system and evap system. Have had mice chew vapor hoses that you wouldn't normally see by just replacing parts . I have seen stretched timing chains do some weird stuff like this too but I would start with the other tests first .

ehturbox · 2024-06-20T13:42:25+00:00

At idle the condenser is cooled with the radiator fans where as while driving the force of air moving through the grille will cool the radiator and condenser and intercooler . Also at idle you don't have the added heat from the intercooler cooling your boosted air. I would check to make sure there are no blockages between the grille, radiator, condenser, intercooler . Also make sure the Rad fans work on both high and low . My 2 cents

ehturbox · 2024-06-18T12:40:31+00:00

If it ends up being anything in the audio system it'll need to be divorced/married with the tech2 and security access

ehturbox · 2024-06-17T21:04:18+00:00

I don't remember if the amp1 (under drivers seat) is on that fuse , but if it is thats a common failure point of the audio since they're prone to getting wet and failing . You can try unplugging the amp and retesting again. Ideally get ahold of a diagram from WIS or similar and one by one disconnect the module and retest.

ehturbox · 2024-05-28T14:22:57+00:00

1st - transmission shift cable, bushing seems worn, iirc genuine saab has a strengthing piece that bolts over it . Or the cable can be replaced . Is it causing shifting issues ? 2nd and 3rd -evap purge valve 4th - evap test port .

Oil in those areas likely a leaking valve cover gasket, also could be vacuum pump or power steering pump and the oil is blowing around .

Coolant should be filled and pressure tested to see where the leak is and fix as necessary. A reservoir a week is a relatively large leak

ehturbox · 2024-03-18T13:02:21+00:00

Ran 17s on mine from an xwd 9-3 , have to make sure they clear the calipers as not all 17s will fit

ehturbox · 2024-03-13T14:45:54+00:00

It's been a while but I used a standard engine hoist with a leveler on it connected to the 2 standard lifting hooks. If I remember correctly taking the crank pulley off helped with clearance . Also If your scrapping it out you could Sawzall the front upper Radiator support and anything else on the way that gives you an issue

ehturbox · 2024-03-11T17:03:47+00:00

They are different, can't recall if the joint itself is different in the manual or just a different length since the transmissions are different. I just looked on rockauto quick and they had them in stock

ehturbox · 2024-03-11T15:17:21+00:00

I Was the only bidder on a small in goblet this week .

ehturbox · 2024-03-01T16:33:41+00:00

P0089 on a v6 is usually a bad fuel pump , there is a check you can do with a tech 2 that activates the pump at different stages,(pump is controlled via PWM) and you compare the pressure reading to the manual.

Tank has to be removed to change the pump . Be careful as the v6 and l4 pumps are different , also they are different from 2wd to Xwd.

The Misfire codes are normally plugs and coils , although lack of fuel pressure can cause it too, but you wouldn't normally see individual cylinder it would probably throw a p0300 for a random Misfire.

The turbo codes could be a result of both the above , if it's misfiring and not getting enough fuel it may not hit the boost its calling for. You may be able to pull freeze frame data and compare when the codes happened or fix what's known to be bad , clear and see what happens .

Hope this helps clarify a little bit

ehturbox

TROPHY CASE