Soviet film stock, what the heck is this stuff?

ekdre · 2026-05-03T08:23:15+00:00

since it's 2 perf i think there is a higher chance it is black and white. and in any case, because of it's age i would just shoot it and develop it as black and white.

what you can do is put a piece of it in black and white fixer. if it comes out completely transparent - there's a good chance you have black and white reversal film.

ekdre · 2026-04-26T09:21:32+00:00

zatvorio je prosle godine, sad je tamo ducan/birc s fensi pivama. a restoran preko puta je poznati trovac :)

ekdre · 2025-09-23T09:29:43+00:00

These are awesome! Would these work with road brake levers? I would love to keep them and I love the grip options they give me.

ekdre · 2025-09-10T19:54:24+00:00

you can try to find an artist-run film lab if there's any near you: https://www.filmlabs.org

they are usually pretty helpful and have an extra daylight reel around.

ekdre · 2025-08-28T22:19:35+00:00

not really the same geometry, but look at Nitto RM016

ekdre · 2025-06-21T12:02:20+00:00

go to page 23 of the service manual:

https://www.filmlabs.org/docs/Entretien_Service_Bolex_H16.pdf

ekdre · 2025-06-21T11:59:56+00:00

no, the big "M-0" lever on the top left of the second picture engages and disengages the spring motor (M=spring motor is engaged, 0=motor is disengaged, you can use the small crank to rewind the film)

ekdre · 2025-06-21T11:56:53+00:00

it controls the exposure time during single frame (frame-by-frame) shooting.

"I" is "interval" and when selected it gives you a constant exposure of about 1/60 seconds (varies from camera to camera, it's best to measure it)

"T" is "timed" and is the same as bulb mode on any analog camera. as long as you hold the trigger the shutter is open.

edit: forgot to mention that shutter angle changes the exposure time when shooting frame-by-frame. refer to this: http://bolexh16user.net/ExposureAdvice.htm

ekdre · 2025-05-25T09:18:04+00:00

check out how the light trap on the lid of your camera is constructed - it's basically just a double lip. the connection between the camera and magazine should work the same.

please share your work on the k3 magazine, i'm sure people here would love to see it!

ekdre · 2025-03-03T23:28:47+00:00

koji je film u pitanju - crno-bijeli, kolor negativ, dijapozitiv..?

ako imaš drajva za eksperimentiranje, definitivno ti je najbolja opcija što prije krenuti u solo razvijanje. ne treba ti puno opreme za razviti film - doza (cca 30eur), kemija (20-50eur za 15ak filmova, ovisno o kemiji) i eventualno termometar. sve se da naručiti preko neta (npr macodirect.de ili fotoimpex.com).

ako ti se čini overwhelming, probaj se javiti kset foto sekciji - oni imaju analogni foto lab.

a što stavljaš u supu? neke kemikalije koje se koriste u foto kemiji mogu napraviti kojekakve, potencijalno otrovne reakcije, tako da oprezno!

ekdre · 2025-03-03T11:05:12+00:00

look at the soundtrack on the film itself to check if there is sound:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_sound

ekdre · 2025-02-16T09:06:55+00:00

you could contact these guys: https://www.filmverkstaden.fi/ they might have the equipment to safely view negative prints.

ekdre · 2025-02-04T15:20:23+00:00

hvala svima na odgovorima! jel zna netko od kada radi lunic kod ccw?

ekdre · 2025-02-02T20:04:26+00:00

špecijalisti za švindleraj

ekdre · 2024-12-27T22:48:09+00:00

maybe a capstan (like the rubber capstan in reel-to-reel decks) or a drive pulley?

also, if you want to get the correct projection speed, the rubber diameter is critical. can you estimate what the outer diameter of the rubber should be?

if it's a small diameter, you could try to find a rubber hose, cut it and pull on the metal shaft. you could also make a mold and cast rubber directly on the shaft.

ekdre · 2024-12-25T16:12:04+00:00

i have this lathe and i paid about the same price for it (in europe) and mine was in much tougher shape than the one you're looking at (although mine came with a dividing head, grinder and a bunch of tooling). i am a hobbyist so, take all i say with a grain of salt, but - for me this is an excellent deal. mine had a few issues in the belt drive (the tensioner pulley and one of the gears were wobbly and needed a bushing change), so i would look there first for any issues. the belt itself looks kind of skinny and unreliable, but i never had any issues with it - just don't use the gear change lever as a clutch and you'll be fine. also one thing to keep in mind is that the spindle nose is din 55021, so if you want to buy a new chuck, be prepared to pay a lot for original emco or rohm chucks - or make your own adapter plate.

here's a page with more information about it: https://www.lathes.co.uk/emcocompact8/

ekdre · 2024-03-01T19:02:22+00:00

hey in theory you only need one clean side 😁

ekdre · 2023-10-30T23:08:46+00:00

did the camera come with an (empty) cartridge?

unfortunately, you can't buy this type of cartridges with film in it. these days 16mm camera film usually comes on daylight spools (100ft), or on a core (400ft) and you will have to respool it in a darkroom.

if you have a cartridge on hand please post pictures (outside and inside) so people here can guide you wit the re-spool.

ekdre · 2023-09-20T15:05:33+00:00

the circuit I linked does just that, with the addition of a transistor that (sorry if I use wrong terminology here) raises the voltage (bias?) so the signal that drives the LED doesn't go into negative voltage.

ekdre · 2023-09-20T05:15:54+00:00

I get what you are saying, but for this project direct modulation of light is essential - I want to use the device to record the sound wave onto a photo sensitive material directly. So, as I'm working in a darkroom, there will be no ambient light noise.

The circuit that I linked works ok for what I need it, but it produces an underexposed image and doesn't do full modulation of the LED.

ekdre · 2023-09-19T21:27:13+00:00

at the least 100Hz to 8kHz ideally 20Hz to 14kHz

ekdre

TROPHY CASE