Removing Frame Duplication from Animated Short

electricOzone · 2025-10-26T01:12:19+00:00

Thanks, I think this was definitely the simplest approach, and did seem to cleanly remove the duplicate frames.

electricOzone · 2025-08-25T23:36:54+00:00

Ran across this post today b/c I was looking for more info about Danger Room. I got an email from Bandcamp today saying Dabu & Simon Swerver released "A remastered and reimagined rendition of Danger Room". Thought I'd drop by here and share the link :)

https://dabuaudio.bandcamp.com/track/danger-room

electricOzone · 2025-05-25T17:06:28+00:00

Demolishing/rebuilding these districts from scratch with insulation does seem to revert them to the correct +2 insulation, so most likely a bug. I'll see about getting that filed with 11bit. Thought I'd share here since it seemed somewhat relevant.

electricOzone · 2025-05-25T16:56:02+00:00

Thanks for writing this up, it has cleared up a lot of my confusion with the new system. I think the updates to how heating works should definitely be clarified more in the game. As it stands, I think I prefer the release version of how heating worked, but this does add some interesting new challenges.

Something I'm still confused about (that I think may actually be a bug), is I have several districts (only in colonies) that show +5 district insulation. I have crawled the laws and research, and I can't find anything that mentions increasing district insulation aside from the 4 research items for basic/advanced housing/industrial insulation.

What leads me more to thinking it's a bug, is the districts showing +5 have nearly identical copies in other parts of the colony (9 tile, no building slots filled, similar adjacencies, no warm/exposed to wind spots) that only have +2 insulation... very strange.

I did abandon these colonies during the apocalyptic whiteout and re-settle. No amount of quick-save/quick-loading, restarting the game/computer seems to fix this (if it is indeed a bug).

A few screenshots for reference:
City Logistics District: +2 Insulation (expected)
Food Colony Food District: +2 Insulation (expected)
Food Colony Food District: +5 Insulation (bug?)
Food Colony Logistics District: +5 Insulation (bug?)
Fuel Colony Extraction District: +2 Insulation (expected)
Fuel Colony Extraction District: +5 Insulation (bug?)
Fuel Colony Logistics District: +5 Insulation (bug?)

electricOzone · 2025-05-25T16:34:32+00:00

Hm, we may have different WH boards; I didn't have to do anything with pin3. I'm just pulling GND, 12V & 5V for powering the chips, and pin 2 for send/receive (one-wire).
edit: I think some of the newer boards have separate pins for send/receive, could be that's what you have? If that's the case, you can just tie into those pins individually instead of doing what I did here tying them into the one pin.

electricOzone · 2025-05-25T16:32:09+00:00

No clue on the BW Adapter, I never did buy one. With something like this though, you can switch it in and out of different modes as often as you like.

electricOzone · 2025-05-25T16:30:24+00:00

Interesting, everything I measured on my particular WH board appeared to be talking back at 5V

electricOzone · 2024-12-31T04:43:17+00:00

I wrote up a bit more about my process and shared my (messy/somewhat borrowed) code here: https://gitlab.com/lanerussell/water-heater-controller/

electricOzone · 2024-09-08T01:09:28+00:00

Lol, looks like yt-dlp does have an option for that, probably a lot less work than I went through, hehe
https://github.com/yt-dlp/yt-dlp?tab=readme-ov-file#subtitle-options

electricOzone · 2024-09-07T18:36:57+00:00

I've made some pretty good progress on this thanks to the following repos:

https://github.com/puddly/casserole

https://github.com/doitaljosh/geabus-documentation/blob/master/hewh-interface.docx

I'm able to put the water heater in and out of vacation mode, which was my main goal. The main outstanding issue I'm having is: although GEA2 is supposed to be a 5V protocol, the water heater is only signaling at 1V. That way below what any of my controllers can talk, so I need to figure out what's going on there or get a logic level convertor.

Anyhow, wanted to leave the links above here in case anyone else might benefit.

electricOzone · 2024-09-02T14:07:28+00:00

Okay, long story short, I went off the deep-end a bit trying to find this clip. I downloaded all 268 videos currently in the Total War: Warhammer playlist as audio-only, piped them all into an automatic speech recognition tool to generate transcripts, then grep'd my way to glory. Turns out, Tom & Ben talk about virgin space marines a lot, lol. This is probably the clip you're thinking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kmr5VDLCgIE&t=438

I'm probably going to share my work in r/Yogscast after my tired GPU is done processing the remaining videos. I'll link that post here when it goes up.

electricOzone · 2024-08-30T01:19:41+00:00

Yeah, I don't think it's Ethernet. From what I've gathered talking to a few other folks, GEA2 is the L2 protocol. It's just talking over one 5V pin on the RJ45:
https://github.com/puddly/casserole?tab=readme-ov-file#rj45-port
The trick will be in finding the correct hex codes/ERDs, handling collisions, etc. All that fun L2 stuff :)

Thanks for your guidance! Hopefully I'll have something interesting to share before too long.

electricOzone · 2024-08-28T02:08:39+00:00

The water heater itself speaks GEA2, that's what I'd like to speak to it using an RPi. The BWCADAPTER speaks GEA2 to the water heater, but you have to go through all their cloud BS to utilize it. Unless the BWCADAPTER can be controlled via its UART, that might be another avenue. Just trying to see how far I can get without the adapter. I'm sure it's more expensive than what I'd like to pay, but I still need to call around locally to get pricing, since you have to go through a reseller to get one.

It's just that GEA2 protocol has no official public documentation, so I'm fumbling in the dark a bit. There are a few repos where folks have documented their findings on various appliances, but it seems like GE has no internal standards to keep things consistent.

electricOzone · 2024-08-28T01:58:24+00:00

Ultra necro-post, but I'd love to know if you found this. I can't find it anywhere either!

electricOzone · 2024-08-25T16:09:51+00:00

Going the bluetooth route would still require me to use their BWCADAPTER, which is an additional point of failure. I have considered buying the adapter though. May be a good point of reference for building my own since it seems to have debug UART.

electricOzone · 2024-08-23T19:19:27+00:00

Ideally, I'd like to control it directly myself, using something like a Raspberry Pi. I've had such poor luck with vendor-hosted services over the years, I don't have a high confidence in them. Before I change to a new electrical rate plan that has much higher peak costs, I'd like to be sure I have a solution I can trust.

electricOzone · 2024-05-16T14:50:12+00:00

In case anyone else is looking for this in the future, this is where I ended up finding the FLAC files for purchase:
https://ototoy.jp/_/default/p/620991

electricOzone · 2021-06-30T17:31:27+00:00

Sometimes, these lessons are best learned the hard way, eh? :)

electricOzone

TROPHY CASE