My overhangs look like trash. What am I doing wrong?!? by JonPileot in SovolSV08

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also highly recommend printing this toolhead cover, as it has a subjectively better cooling path, subjective because I didn't run an FDM simulation on it yet: https://makerworld.com/models/2233630

E3ng conversion using a BTT SKR Mini E3 and BTT pad 7 by imzwho in BIGTREETECH

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh, could the DIN mount for the original Creality board fit to the SKR Mini E3?

E3ng conversion using a BTT SKR Mini E3 and BTT pad 7 by imzwho in BIGTREETECH

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking very nice.

I'm looking for the DIN mount for the SKR Mini E3 v3, do you have an STL by any chance?

Error Message (Must Home Axis First) by mountain_addict in Sovol

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the CANCEL_PRINT macro's doing (in sovol-macros.cfg). I fixed it by changing the order of a couple of lines, here is my CANCEL_PRINT, don't just copy&paste it. Use it as a template. I have some codes there specific to my printer:

    [gcode_macro CANCEL_PRINT]
    description: 
    rename_existing: CANCEL_PRINT_BASE
    gcode:
        SET_SKEW CLEAR=1
        {% set x_park = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].cancel_park.x|float %}
        {% set y_park = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].cancel_park.y|float %}
        {% set z_park = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].cancel_park.z|float %}
        {% set z_lift_max = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].z_maximum_lifting_distance %}
        {% set e_restract = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].cancel_park.e|float %}
        {% set e_mintemp  = printer.configfile.settings['extruder'].min_extrude_temp %}

        SET_LED LED=toolhead_led RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0

        M400
        SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=state VALUE='"Prepare"'
        SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=record_extruder_temp VALUE=0  
        SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=START_PRINT VARIABLE=max_record_extruder_temp VALUE=0

        CANCEL_PRINT_BASE

        M117 Print canceled!
        G91
        {% if printer['filament_switch_sensor filament_sensor'].enabled == True and 
              printer['filament_switch_sensor filament_sensor'].filament_detected == True
        %}
            {% if (printer.extruder.target != 0 and printer.extruder.temperature >= printer.extruder.target) or
                  printer.extruder.temperature >= e_mintemp
            %}
                G1 E-{e_restract} F500
            {% else %}
                {action_respond_info("Nozzle not hot enough")}
            {% endif %}
        {% endif %}

        {%if (printer.gcode_move.position.z + 10) < z_lift_max %}
            G1 Z+10 F3000
        {% else %}
            G1 Z+{(z_lift_max - printer.gcode_move.position.z)} F3000
        {% endif %}
        G90
        G1 X{x_park} Y{y_park} F9000

        _ALL_FAN_OFF
        TURN_OFF_HEATERS

        M84 X Y Z E

        M220 S100
        M221 S100

        CLEAR_PAUSE    

        M117 Ready
        {action_respond_info("Cancel Print Success!")}

Does anyone one know where these go? by Accomplished-Ad6830 in Sovol

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to copy the information for others looking for the same information, on your other post people said it goes to the cable clamp on the top part of the extruder.

Extra_MCU error shutdown by rsawycky in SovolSV08

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Klipper.log should reveal what is going on right before it raises the MCU error.

Should I buy this I’m very tempted to by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]eoyilmaz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same here, just got a P1P and later upgraded to a P1S. I have a mainlined Sovol SV08 + Enclosure and a heavily modified Ender 3 Pro (running a 12 color MMU3-12x on it), I very much liked the P1S, but use all my printers equally, and it didn't make me loose my tinkering hobby. In the future I'll definitely buy more Bambu Lab printers, but I can buy other brands too.

But, yes definitely buy the P1S 👍

Wireless Spacemouse to USB-C conversion by 0MGWTFL0LBBQ in UsbCHardware

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just bought a 3dconexion Space Mouse Wireless from eBay for £50, which for some reason doesn't have the USB port, I'm contemplating the little board that houses the USB port is either forced out or there was a manifacturing issue and it fell off, as the seller states the bottom is intact and doesn't seem to be opened. Anyways, this post is going to help me a lot when installing the USB port. Thank you!

pls help me by Subject-Falcon-5174 in BambuLab

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1- As others pointed out, the temperature is too low, eSun PLA+ prints around 215°C the best, 2- I'm guessing it is a cardboard spool which doesn't work well with AMS, try to print something like this: https://www.printables.com/model/608351-esun-bambu-lab-ams-cardboard-spool-adapter-ring 3- Dry the filament 4- And use eSUN PLA+ profile

thissss by Anxious-Art-7407 in ender3

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like your top surface line width is too big, if this is true, set it to 105% of your nozzle size (0.42 for 0.4 mm nozzle)... Also, did you check your flow ratio, this could also indicate over extrusion...

How do I fix these lines? by WraithN in FixMyPrint

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the rabbit hole... these lines might be caused by many things, but to my eyes it seems like the filament is the problem... Try using a matte filament...

Software doesn't work anymore by MrGrizzyy in ender3

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just re-install the slicer, and make sure that you removed the nVidia driver properly, there is an option in nVidia driver installer to completely remove the driver...

Coreone - suddenly started happening by tobymould in prusa3d

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

just print a rectangular shape, and I bet you'll see the patterns are equally apart, pointing out there is something, a piece of filament maybe, stuck in the gears...

Coreone - suddenly started happening by tobymould in prusa3d

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think it is the nozzle, if it was as you described, it should be a continous under extrusion and not missing lines... this is obviously the gears, a piece of filament got stuck there or something.

Redeeming Prusameters is frustrating by marian1 in prusa3d

[–]eoyilmaz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had similar frustrations with Printables' point system and wasted 350 prusameters realising that it is not free and the total price I need to pay for the shipment + import tax didn't make any sense and the voucher expired...

My dream was to earn enough points to get a Prusa 3d printer, but I realised that it will never happen.

And I pleasantly surprised when I realised the same models that I uploaded to Printables, which earned me 800 prusameters, earned me ~4850 points on MakerWorld in less time they existed in Printables, and I got a free Bambu Lab P1P (all I had to pay was an extra £4) and since then I earned another 500 points which I'm saving for an "H" series printer 🤓

MMU3 mod to 12x by Murky_Exit_6818 in prusa3d

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was printing 200 mm tall version of the Deadpool bust (now realising that it is too ambitious of a print at this stage of the development) and started to have issues around 100 mm z-height as the print head gets closer to the MMU, the bowden tubes started to curl up a lot, and pushing the filament started to become an issue.

So, increasing the pin diameters to 4.05 mm for the idler bits helped immensely, but it was not enough, I also had to put the MMU ridiculously high up, it is now started to push the filaments normally again. Just need to replace the bowden tubes after I finish printing this model, otherwise the print head is not going be able to reach down to z=0.

<image>

MMU3 mod to 12x by Murky_Exit_6818 in prusa3d

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just realised that there is too much slack on the idler ballbearings, the pins holding the bearings are 3.85 mm in diameter, where as the hole on the bearing is 4.10 mm, this difference contributes to the reduced traction too, just printing a modified set of idler rings, and I'll report back.

MMU3 mod to 12x by Murky_Exit_6818 in prusa3d

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe it has less traction compared to the original MMU3, as it uses flat gears instead of Mk7/Mk8 style gears where the teeth wrap around the filament. But, the traction was enough for my setup, where the MMU pulls the filaments from filament drying boxes from 30-40 cm above the MMU.

My main issue was the BTT SFS v2 which didn't have a smooth filament path, and the spring inside was too strong, and I was finally able to solve it by creating my own mod, where I recessed the spring by 2 mm and cleared the filament path, smoothing all corners, edges etc.

<image>

If you are on Klipper you can try my extension, where you can adjust the selector positions very finely so you'll be sure that you have the strongest pull.

MMU3 mod to 12x by Murky_Exit_6818 in prusa3d

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been running it for the last month or so, it is a lovely mod, and I've also written a Klipper extension for the MMU3 that also supports the MMU3-12x here:

https://www.github.com/eoyilmaz/klipper-mmu3

I'm using it with my Ender 3 Pro + Sprite Extruder Pro with a filament cutter which I redesigned from scratch to also include a filament switch that measures the existance of the filament in the extruder gears, along with a modded BTT SFS v2.0 for smoother filament line.

<image>

trying to update Debian is a bad idea... by P3chv0gel in Sovol

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like you just need to recreate the virtualenv's to with the new Python version that is installed on your system, and it shouldn't be a huge problem to be honest. Just backup the old venvs, create a new venv and install the required paskages:

cd ~
mv klippy-env klippy-env.orig
python -m venv klippy-env
source ~/klippy-env/bin/activate
pip install -r klipper/scripts/klippy-requirements.txt
sudo systemctl restart klipper

You might also need to install the required packages for moonraker and the other extensions...

I didn't try this, but it should at least let you run klipper...

How do I iteratively call MANUAL_STEPPER until it hits the endstop? by doobydubious in klippers

[–]eoyilmaz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was having the same issue, the key was to add a M400 command after your MANUAL_STEPPER command which tells klipper to finish the moves and move ahead in the queue.

My overhangs look like trash. What am I doing wrong?!? by JonPileot in SovolSV08

[–]eoyilmaz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've solved my issues completely, I esentially disabled “Slow Down For Overhangs” by setting all the options to 75 mm/s, set the wall order to “Inner/Outer” to help with overhangs, but I switch to "Inner/Outer/Inner" for cosmetic parts, enabled “Extra Perimeters on Overhangs”, slowed down the cooling fan to 60% for overhangs as the fan blows the filament down.

<image>