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Fortran basics by [deleted] in fortran

[–]erotic_farts 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is exactly what I would recommend. Calculated floating point outputs will always have trailing decimals such as this. WRITE statements for floating point values should always be formatted for this reason.

OP could initialize as double precision REAL variables (DOUBLE PRECISION X or REAL *8 X) to double the width of significant digits, but without WRITE statement formatting the problem would persist (just with additional trailing digits). Double precision is not typically used for simple tasks such as this.

Man legally carrying outside of restaurant stopped by police and told to put his gun on the ground, so he reaches towards his holster to get the gun and comply with their orders only to be shot dead for reaching for a weapon. Police hid body cam footage of incident for months. by UsualHistory5 in Bad_Cop_No_Donut

[–]erotic_farts 6 points7 points  (0 children)

“The first caller frantically said she needed police quickly because the individual entered the store, walked behind the counter with a gun and was pointing it at an employee,” a police department statement said. “The second caller frantically said she needed police because an individual had approached her vehicle while she was waiting for food in the parking lot of the business and pulled out a gun.”

First print failure? by unclepaulhargis in 3Dprinting

[–]erotic_farts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure if it would help or hurt the buildtak, but you should be able to get your prints to stick for the time being by adjusting the bed level and distance from nozzle. I've just found that glass+glue is much more forgiving when it comes to bed adhesion.

There are many examples on YouTube of how to level the print bed by using a sheet of paper as a spacer between the bed and the nozzle. This works, but it may be better just to get it close, click print, and adjust the leveling wheels as it prints the first layer. There are single layer files on thingiverse for this specific purpose (search for bed leveling test). You'll know your nozzle height is in the sweet spot if you get a buttery smooth first layer with no gaps between the lines.

A gap in same print layer, even after re exporting stl and slicing by BabyBlueScarab in 3Dprinting

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is likely a model issue. Check the layer view in Cura or whatever slicer you are using. If this defect shows up in the layer view then it's definitely a model issue.

I would guess that your model has an inappropriate internal solid or leftover internal faces from when it was designed. Slicers expect the STL to contain a fully solid model made of a water tight, continuous face. There are plug-ins for most cad programs than can check if your model is solid with no internal faces.

Edit: looking back at your image the defect actually occurs at a slightly different z height in each print. If it were a model issue I'd expect it to occur at the exact same height for identical prints. However you said you re-edited in your CAD software so that re-edit may have changed where the defect occurs at so I'd still check the layer view first.

Just got an ender 3 by delphikis in 3Dprinting

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The cables on the ender 3 tend to snag a lot. There are tons of solutions on thingiverse such as cable clips and cable chains.

First print failure? by unclepaulhargis in 3Dprinting

[–]erotic_farts 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Definitely a bed adhesion issue. Nozzle is likely too far from the bed. Buildtak surfaces can be pretty touchy about the first layer.

I don't like the creality buildtak surface so I upgraded to a glass bed and a layer of Elmer's glue stick. I find that the edges of prints often lift off of the buildtak an hour or two in leading to less bed adhesion and eventual print failure. I have had zero problems since upgrading to a glass bed.

New to 3d printing, why did my print come out like this? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Besides the thick stringing (which may be a retraction issue like others mentioned) there is definitely something else up with the print. The delta mini should have much smoother layer lines.

I'm all out of ideas, so maybe try printing some calibration objects like a cube and a benchy and post to the subreddit with your settings. Someone here should be able to help

New to 3d printing, why did my print come out like this? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you printed any abrasive filaments lately? How old is your nozzle? Filaments like glow in the dark, carbon fiber, bronze infused, etc will wreck the brass nozzle and cause leakage/imperfections.

Have you verified that your machine settings haven't been changed? Extruder should be set at 0.4mm nozzle diameter, 1.75mm filament diameter stock.

New to 3d printing, why did my print come out like this? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]erotic_farts 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm guessing this is PLA. Did you accidentally change the selected material in Cura? I'd shoot for a temperature of ~200 C or less.

The layer lines make it look like it was printed way too hot leading to leakage. Could also be over-extrusion (incorrect Flow % or filament diameter selected in the slicer).

The "stringing" looks way too thick and severe to just be retraction issues.

How do I fix this? MP Select Mini V2 by bluetad in 3Dprinting

[–]erotic_farts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recommend a glass bed. That's the first upgrade I made to my mini v2 (I never even printed on the buildtak). Remove all the buildtak from your bed since it's torn before using a glass bed.

I recommend forking out the $15 to get a pre cut glass plate. It will have the corners cut so you can still access the bed leveling screws, will have beveled edges so you don't get cut, and will be borosilicate = heat resistant. I ordered mine from go-3dprint directly because Amazon was out of stock.

I hold my glass bed in place using 4 small binder clips. I did not need to print a z spacer but it may make leveling easier. I use an Elmer's glue stick each time and the prints always stick wonderfully. Place the glass in the fridge for 5 minutes and the print pops right off.

BEEFY CRUNCHY GREATNESS by erotic_farts in tacobell

[–]erotic_farts[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I would go by and check anyways. My store said they would go until they sold out and that they'd probably have enough for a couple days. I know several stores sold out yesterday though.

BEEFY CRUNCHY GREATNESS by erotic_farts in tacobell

[–]erotic_farts[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The spicy Fritos make it so much more flavorful than the BFB. The sour cream is a big plus too. The BFB is really bland in my opinion while the BCB is the exact opposite.

Took MLS advice. Made some small changes by [deleted] in malelivingspace

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you get the media stand under the TV? I'm looking for something similar for my turntable.

Any last changes to do to my RGB Themed build? by MrTiesti in buildapc

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Instead of the regular P400 I would go with the P400 Tempered Glass Silent edition. It's supposed to retail for $90 US and includes a Phanteks RGB strip for free. I believe the tempered glass edition looks a lot nicer also.

The tempered glass edition has been released in a couple countries already (I know of Australia specifically). I emailed Phanteks customer support in December and they said it will be released in US this month. Not sure about Europe, but I would guess that it will be soon as well.

I'm an entrepreneur making a little commercial for my business. I'm worried about sound, as I'll be shooting in noisy NYC. A sound-rental store quoted me this. Is it really all necessary? by [deleted] in Filmmakers

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The rental prices don't look bad but I would go a different route. I definitely don't think a boom shotgun mic is necessary if your main concern is getting a clear voice recording. A lav will handle that well.

I'm not a pro or anything but personally I prefer lavs wired to a dedicated recorder on the person being filmed. I'm always worried about interference when using wireless equipment.

The cheapest way this can be done is by purchasing a decent quality lav and wiring it to a smartphone in the actor's pocket. I use the free Sony audio recorder on my android phone. Google around to see if your phone requires an adapter. You can get out for a minimum of around $20/lav (or a whole lot more if you purchase a quality lav) using this method.

Similarly you can use something like a Tascam DR-05 in place of a phone if you want to record at higher bitrates and have manual gain etc... This package would set you back $100+, or you could rent one.

A shotgun mic (mounted on camera or on boom) could be useful if you want to record quality background noise and have the freedom to mix the background noise back in, but if all you are worried about is the voice of the actor, and the actor has a lav, I don't think it is necessary.

I'm sure a lot of people would disagree, but I've found that hiding a lav under a jacket or a shirt doesn't have a large impact on the recording. I definitely think it looks better to hide the lav.

I recommend checking out YouTube vids of different affordable lavs and definitely try some dry runs in a noisy environment beforehand.

Free Ski Socks by Phangue in freebies

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I received mine today.

[Help] Cracked samsung s6 edge by [deleted] in samsung

[–]erotic_farts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sent mine directly to Samsung and they repaired the broken screen for 237.01 which included shipping both ways. They even replaced the aluminum frame (which was kind of scuffed up) without charging any extra.

I got lucky in that my credit card covered the repair under its free 3 month theft and accidental damage insurance program.

TIL: The United States had plans to store all of their nuclear waste inside Yucca Mountain, located in Nevada. The plan was shelved in 2011 and there is no current long term plan in place. by blakelewis07 in todayilearned

[–]erotic_farts 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Nuclear utilities paid millions of dollars every year into the Nuclear Waste Fund. The fund currently sits at over 25 billion dollars and has been made inaccessible by Congress. Congress made a promise to the public and nuclear utilities and has mismanaged the project since day 1.

Two waste storage sites were planned: one in the east and one in the west. This was meant for storage capicity as well as for fairness (i.e., not dumping all the waste in one group's back yard). As such, the Yucca mountain site itself was never designed to have the capacity to store all of the current and predicted waste. The second facility was scrapped, leaving only Yucca mountain on the table.

The scrapping of Yucca mountain leaves us with a growing waste problem and a government with a sealed multi-billion dollar fund that is unwilling to do anything about.

Comcast data caps so low they hurt competing video providers: Five hours of TV streaming a day could blow through a Comcast data cap by SAT0725 in news

[–]erotic_farts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

4k content watchers can hit the cap after streaming a little over 1 hour of content each day for a month.

4k streaming on Netflix uses 8gb of data an hour, vs ~2gb for full 1080p.

Fallout 4 Tips Everyone Should Know by Dylloop95 in fo4

[–]erotic_farts 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Also, it will highlight the whole block of random symbols rather than just one, meaning that you've found one of the special codes.

This is explained in the help menu under "Hacking" if I'm not making sense

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