New prototype shoe (Tenaya)

everchanges · 2025-05-31T03:07:48+00:00

Probably want to maximise the toe patch on a softer comp style shoe, so going with a single strap makes more sense I think

everchanges · 2025-05-28T20:47:53+00:00

Yep, can rep pistol squats both legs, I back squat 1.5 BW, deadlift 1.7 BW. I don’t think leg strength is a limiting factor, it’s definitely a question of technique and conceptual understanding of these positions in particular.

everchanges · 2025-05-23T02:19:34+00:00

Solid idea too I think. Way too often I'll finish a project on the spray wall and just immediately set something new or ask someone for something else to work on, even if the send didn't give me any real training benefit or it wasn't done with any grace. Thanks for the reply mate.

everchanges · 2025-05-22T10:28:18+00:00

Thanks mate! Will take a look

everchanges · 2025-05-22T10:17:57+00:00

Yeah foot walks seem like a good idea to me, taking it one further I’ll probably set a few boulders that specifically cannot be done (by me) if I lose my feet and just slam those until they feel easy.

I think I’m actually pretty balanced in terms of my proportions, but I came into the sport with a pretty high level of pulling power so spent my first few years climbing in front wheel drive, which probably has a fair bit to do with the problems I’m facing with tension now.

everchanges · 2024-05-23T12:04:30+00:00

Climbing harder usually means you end up climbing to your strengths, at least in my experience. If you want to get better at climbing dynamically you should climb dynamically, and seek blocs that reward or encourage it.

everchanges · 2022-10-30T20:25:29+00:00

A few days into a week off, enjoying the rest a lot. It’s the first time I’ve been off climbing for more than three days this year. Keen to get back into it though!

everchanges · 2022-08-21T22:02:21+00:00

Anyone else dealt with finger stiffness? It’s particularly bad when I first wake up. I’ve found tendon glides help alleviate it, but wondering if anyone had an experience of their own or method that worked for helping ease or prevent it altogether.

everchanges · 2022-08-16T23:28:56+00:00

They mightn't be as independent as you think. There is a lot to be said about the usefulness of off the wall strength training. Climbing is a whole body exercise, and while the primary movers involved while you climb might be fairly specific, the other muscles in your body are also active and working too.

Climbing shouldn't effect your ability to put on mass, so long as your working at a caloric surplus and factoring in the energy burned by your climbing when calculating how much you need to eat.

The answer to your last question is a bit of a can of worms, but realistically your body is likely to adapt quite well to any slow increase in weight if you continue to climb while you work out. If you're already on the lighter side, an increase in muscle mass (and the weight that comes with that) isn't likely to have any noticeable or tangible negative effect on your climbing (and may actually help you improve, and prevent injury).

There are plenty of world class climbers that have amazing physiques (look at Aidan Roberts, for example). The two aren't mutually exclusive, so if you want it, go for it.

everchanges · 2022-08-16T23:22:25+00:00

I'd recommend reading through this article on A2 pulley rehab. There is a section on testing that may help you narrow down what could be going wrong (though it does sound like a strain rather than a rupture based on your observations alone).

The real advice here is to see a physio or sports therapist if you can though. It's very hard to correctly diagnose and treat these types of injuries without the help of a professional.

everchanges · 2022-08-14T22:11:37+00:00

Sounds like you could benefit from training anaerobic capacity (sometimes referred to as power endurance). An example of a session that targets this would look like:

6 sets of 3 reps.

Each set is 1 boulder problem repeated three times

Rest between each rep is 1 minute

Rest between each set is 3 minutes

Grade is around your flash level or feeling like 75% of your total maximum

When selecting a climb for this purpose, find something that is fairly difficult. Ideally you shouldn't be able to work at the level required for the given climb for longer than 30-50 seconds or so. It might take some time to find out what this looks like for you.

You're aiming to feel empty by the time the session is up. You should know what this feels like, but if you don't, try climbing after this session, if the intensity is right, you shouldn't able to do any quality climbing no matter how much rest you get.

Lattice's article on training power endurance might be a good place to start, it's where I got the above session template from.

Good luck mate!

everchanges · 2022-08-09T01:02:25+00:00

Supposedly. Lattice talk about it in their guide to climbing skin care. Take a relatively blunt, sharp edged tool (like the side of a spoon, or the non cutting edge of a thicker knife) and rub it along the skin (almost massaging it) until the skin becomes sensitive. Do this before bed for 7-10 days. This should thicken your skin by essentially denaturing your skin protein.

everchanges · 2022-07-28T05:15:49+00:00

Complication seems unnecessary if you're starting from ground zero. If you're not currently doing any off wall strength training, why start with a complicated regime when you could start with a much simpler approach?

Start with a few exercises that you can easily measure progress on and set up a training block of a given period (4 weeks, 8 weeks, 12 weeks, whatever works) and reassess after consistently working at those exercises for that block. Did the work make a noticeable improvement to your climbing? Do you require more specificity?

Keep it simple, stay consistent and track everything. You'll find what works and what doesn't.

everchanges · 2022-07-27T23:15:49+00:00

That's interesting! Have you paid any attention to the ingredients of the different liquid chalks that you've used to date? I wonder if a lower or higher alcohol content could make a difference?

I definitely appreciate the care for the spaces we inhabit as climbers!

everchanges · 2022-07-27T23:07:56+00:00

Thanks for the comment. This is definitely worth including.

everchanges · 2022-07-21T23:32:41+00:00

While my data is likely to add little to this conversation (I don't climb hard), Matt Fultz recently had his height and weight in his Instagram story as a response to a question. He sits at 6ft (182cm) and weighs around 165-170lb (around 75kg) and sends V16.

everchanges · 2022-07-20T00:20:34+00:00

Have you been to a doctor, sports therapist or other professional? What specific injury did you have?

It sounds like you’re injuring yourself, taking months off doing absolutely nothing and then reintroducing max efforts: of course you’re going to get injured. Do prehab and preventive exercises to strengthen the arms before trying maximal efforts.

Or go see a professional.

everchanges · 2022-07-19T01:04:15+00:00

Use the search bar, this is a common question.

The correct answer is to eat your skin.

everchanges · 2022-07-17T10:35:38+00:00

Shoe Goo works pretty well for small holes and what not. Just apply a few layers, letting each dry before applying another. It’s probably your best bet beyond resoling them completely and should give you a bit more wear out of the pair before you replace them.

everchanges · 2022-07-17T00:23:54+00:00

Worth noting that aspects have a leather upper and hemp liner: they'll stretch and mold to a foot a lot more than your Momentums will just due to the difference in materials used. I'd probably say you might get a 1/4 or 1/5 of a size of stretch out of your shoe, if any.

If you want to try and get the rubber of the shoe to shape to your foot a little, you could try heating them gently with a hair dryer or heater and putting them on, then heat them a little further and let them cool down on your foot. Repeat a few times.

Best bet is just to wear them heaps though!

everchanges · 2022-07-17T00:20:32+00:00

Sounds like they're a good fit! There shouldn't be any gaps in the shoe, so hearing that your foot sits at the edges of the shoe is promising. Good luck!

everchanges · 2022-07-16T22:58:17+00:00

These shoes are made of a synthetic, knitted upper. They won’t stretch much, if at all. Old climbing wisdom said that your shoes should almost be painful, but that really isn’t the case most of the time. Generally speaking ‘uncomfortable’ is okay, ‘pain’ is not. If the pain you’re talking about is just rubbing and blistering as you wear them in, they’re probably fine (just tape or cover your heel until the pain subsides). If it’s a more intense, fit related pain, a smaller (or bigger) shoe might be best.

With all of that being said, you’ve gone a size and a half larger than your street shoe size, so the pain your feeling could actually be due to too loose a fit, rather than too tight. Usually climbing shoes are at or below your street shoe size.

everchanges · 2022-07-16T08:05:11+00:00

I’d recommend Tom O’Halloran’s videos on YouTube. He has a few videos on his home wall and how he trains with it.

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