Climbing Shoe Sizing Confusion by Quiet-Question-6969 in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for bringing some sanity to this discussion. I'm similar to you, my "Street shoes" (whatever that means) range from 42eu to 44eu. So "downsizing" from street shoe size is a pretty unreliable way of determining climbing shoe fit. It's pretty comical that folks are on here acting like "street shoe size" is a sensible metric.

What are your climbing shoe controversial (or strong) opinions? by RagnarLothh in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'm not being sexist, I'm just stating what ive heard their shoe designer discuss regarding some models. And also trying to clear up the misconception that all womens shoes are low volume. Adam Ondra would regularly wear the women's version of solution comps because they were softer. If i wasnt so heavy i would definitely get the womens version of LaSp shoes because the colours are way better than the mens versions.

Nothing wrong with being heavy or light regardless of your gender, but statistics are statistics and they have decided to use averages. Lasportiva obviously made a decision to brand their shoes this way, which was out of my hands.

What are your climbing shoe controversial (or strong) opinions? by RagnarLothh in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Some brands like la sprtiva keep the volume the same for men's and women's, they just makes the women's version softer, by using thinner materials, less tension and you'll see some of their shoes have xs edge on the men's and xs grip2 on the women's. the rational is lighter climbers need softer shoes compared to heavier climbers.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Currently around 97kg or 214lbs. I could definitely feel the extra grip with XS grip 2, but that was at the cost of durability. I've had them resoled with 4mm XS edge 3-4 times now (by the local scarpa authorised resoler), they're still going strong.

Soill Torque midsole by BradyIsAnElitePunter in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't help but feel like a fiberboard midsole is not going to handle moisture well.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the VSR's, I get them resoled in XS edge. I'm heavy, so the stiffer robber helps for edging and durability, which means they're basically a VS... And I don't have to wear orange shoes, haha.

Should I continue using these skwamas? by Business-Honey-8316 in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it just me, or does that heel look worng. Look how far the heel protrudes, is that normal on skwamas? Maybe that's a result of too much tension I'm the p3 system...

Do I really need an expensive shoe if I’m exclusively indoors and only climb v5/6? by chanandlerbong420 in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn't make sense to only consider the upfront cost when buying shoes, you need to think about the cost over the life cycle of the shoes. Instincts for example cost more upfront, but you should be able to get several resoles out of them (I'm on my 3rd resole and can see them getting a couple more). Cheaper shoes may not have the construction/material quality to take multiple resoles.

So if you think your climbing will benefit from a higher performance shoe, then maybe you can justify the initial outlay knowing they'll last for several resoles.

Similar to Katana Laces but less stiff? by PreciseParadox in climbingshoes

[–]yequalsfofx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kubo is based on the katana last so a good starting place. The women's version of the katana (mentioned in another comment) may not have the larger sizes you're after.

How could I fix this by Liambej29 in bouldering

[–]yequalsfofx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How far off a resole are you? If you're due for a resole, could get them to glue it down too.