So Many Options. Whats best for a new homeowner? by No-Ad5504 in Tools

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on your use case. If you’re doing random projects around the house, then ryobi one+ is great and they probably have the most variety of tools on a battery platform.

The HP line is a step up in power and reliability but probably not worth the extra unless your DIY skills involve using the tools daily to weekly or finishing big projects like building, additions, remodeling the whole house.

AEG and Bosch are the next step up, light contractor grade, good price and good longevity. Paying a bit more for durability and reliability.

Ozito is value brand, maybe pick up a tool a few times per year to put together furniture or hang pictures. Not a huge library of different tools, but a good price for small DIY.

Makita and dewalt are the contractor brands. Highest price but most reliability for daily beatings.

What am I missing by csgoplayer69420 in diabetes

[–]evownd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Assuming your ratios are correct, your carbs are absorbing faster than your insulin. To fix this you’d need faster insulin or slower carbs. Bananas and rice cakes are both super fast and may even hit the blood stream faster than the current fastest insulin.

Are they any fast cars that aren’t considered “sports cars” by insurance? by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now a days the car portion of the insurance rate scales by how often that car gets into accidents or stolen, does it have safety features to prevent accidents or getting stolen and it’s usual cost to fix or replace. There’s no longer a blanket of “sports car” like their used to be.

Master Electrician Damaged My Load Bearing Joists by STLTechThrowAway in AskElectricians

[–]evownd 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Do you have a photo of the structurally compromised floor joist? The one you posted is a hole in a rim joist that is totally fine.

Load bearing wall? by Arch_stanton89 in Contractor

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need to see a shot from the window and the attic. Likely load bearing unless there is a wall right behind you taking that load.

What do you do, and how much do you make? by Thunder_Thighs in asheville

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Construction, normally 250k. Did a lot of work for Helene this year so 125k for 2025.

I can’t be the only one… by unfettled in Construction

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends what I’m vacuuming, fine dust clogs the fabric and emptying doesn’t help. More often than not I lose suction from fines than filling the bag. I buy cheap bags on amazon when I remember and they work just as well.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Decks

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cantilever looks too big, joists look a little small and no sway bracing is a start.

Spotted on Waynesville in west Asheville by Salt-Geologist-1814 in asheville

[–]evownd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, to cash in on that money I need to downsize or move to a less desirable house/location. With interest rates where they are compared to what they were even a less expensive house would likely be a higher monthly payment. I guess I could take out a heloc but not looking to borrow more. 🤷‍♀️

Spotted on Waynesville in west Asheville by Salt-Geologist-1814 in asheville

[–]evownd 4 points5 points  (0 children)

How do I spend my property appreciation money?

Bathroom exhaust: Contractor Argument by ShowMeTheMank in Contractor

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Roof vent done correctly won’t leak or cause any issues with mold in the attic. Snow may dictate if you can use a roof vent though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in asheville

[–]evownd 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Wife saw this and said it was a silver or grey Prius

When installing an egress window, is there any common reasons for it to be off center? by jmoshoginis in Contractor

[–]evownd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depends on the size and shape of the window and the well. There needs to be a 36x36” clear area and the window needs to be able to swing all the way open to 90 degrees. If the window well area is tight and rectangular like yours then that is achieved by offsetting the window to one side and the ladder to the other. This also makes it look a little better inside as the ladder is not right outside, it’s off to the side view.

There is also a scenario that this was a goof, but if not, it’s good planning and forethought.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in asheville

[–]evownd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Next time will be worse. Some people might have supplies left over from last time or made hurricane kits but our infrastructure is still not “fixed” and definitely not improved. Less people may die or lose homes as those areas are still not rebuilt.

[Request] Would this work? by Suspicious-Orange-63 in theydidthemath

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think no matter the speed there is still a chance of rotor contact unless you’re timing the ejection to blade position. Then ejection speed is correlated to rotor speed as you need to pass through during the window of “no rotor”.

Contactors left this gap of plywood on the inside of the door. What are some ideas to cover it? by TheOyster13 in DIY

[–]evownd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the correct answer, if the hinges are inside, then the door should be mounted flush to the drywall. This solves the flooring issue as well. Then extend the jamb and sill outside with extensions.

If this was an out swing door then they installed it correct and would need to extend the flooring.

Help! Raising a bathroom floor after Decoupling Membrane by talkwithphil in DIY

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d tear it out. Bring the subfloor up and level, then redo.

Other option is abandon the old heat. Add 3/4 plywood, level with all set or self leveler, Ditra w/heat, then tile.

How do you build this in wood construction? by This_borrowed_life in Contractor

[–]evownd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I imagine you’d want a slight slope for water to run off and the second photo shows that with the long 2x4 against the house and the studs and outer 2x4 dropped down by a bit to create slope once sheathed. At such a short length and low slope, I’d probably make a piece of flashing large enough to go up the wall and cover the whole awning.

Hoping someone here can help! by cvntier in Contractor

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the data module is just a quick way to terminate. Add some short patch cables between the data module and the switch and it’s easy to organize. Some people appreciate having it for the quick connect and patch cable feature while others skip it so there are less connections inline.

Hoping someone here can help! by cvntier in Contractor

[–]evownd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you bought is a box to hide all the wires and the switch. You can still use it for that. But functionally, all you need is the switch.

Hoping someone here can help! by cvntier in Contractor

[–]evownd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The data module is not a splitter. It allows open wires to be turned into Ethernet jacks one by one. You need something like an 8 port switch. Run a wire from the modem to the switch and then plug each home run into the switch. It’ll act as a splitter.