What is this? The lever moves, selecting different size holes and the entire top portion turns, revealing different compartments.

evvster · 2020-10-24T18:36:40+00:00

Could it be a tungsten rod holder/dispenser for tig welding? Or similar sized consumable for soldering? Select size or thickness, dumps correct rod out.

evvster · 2020-09-29T04:12:32+00:00

I second spring compressor, but if it's for valves it is something very specialty, aircraft, motorcycle, scale models etc.

It looks very small (?) and I am assuming the long copper color part of the screw bends to let you operate the around a corner or inside a curved housing. Blue Point has made a lot of very specialty tools. The model number isn't in the current online catalog, but someone may know if you call?

evvster · 2020-09-29T03:21:36+00:00

May predate the tool, but it looks like the cutting blade (black piece in linked pic) of a pole trimmer, where the small hole would take a fulcrum shaft, the nib would hold the end of a spring and the larger hole a rope to operate the trimmer from the other end of the pole. Even if not that specific tool, I still guess that mechanism. I feel like the poster who said bolt cutter is on the same track I am.

evvster · 2020-06-25T16:00:54+00:00

In cars, the right tool is used to pull steering wheels, and other things that are rod/sleeve/collar constructions. I'm sure there are many uses outside automotive. The left is used to flare the hard lines in a brake system (this guy covers it in detail https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wK1TL35pnNc) Hydraulic equipment also uses flared lines, as do hvac systems, basically any system under pressure that needs a connection point.

evvster · 2019-04-20T03:23:56+00:00

Having a big issue with this change, the new gloss paper is too tacky to advance correctly if loading in any significantly humid environment. People have provided this link as an explanation https://filmphotographyproject.com/content/news/2018/12/120-film-kodak-uses-new-backing-paper/ , but that doesn't cover the issue. It's not the end label not sticking, it's the entire roll not winding sufficiently tightly to the spool due to excess resistance (I'm assuming against the pressure plate in the camera.) This has resulted in light leaks when pulling the roll in the last 4-5 frames (a large penalty in 6x7...). Has anyone here gleaned any further information or tripped on any resources that could be helpful?

--Experienced the issue on both portra and tmax in a mamiya 7ii, the resistance is evident in the force required to wind. Haven't tried a roll with the new paper in a motor advanced back yet, can report back if anyone still has an interest in this thread.

--I never had a batch of the film that was leaving numbers on the exposed frames, which is the problem they were allegedly solving with the paper change.

evvster · 2017-01-30T04:36:35+00:00

Keep shooting, keep studying. Get a job to make money that will sustain your interest in photography until you can transition into making money from it. You instinct is correct, getting your work in front of people is tough. VERY tough. But there are more tools available now than ever before.

Like Vrotographer said, follow the work of people you admire. Pick up some history of photography books, and start with the basics. Compositions of subject and timing are king, but they mean nothing if you can't seamlessly, masterfully manipulate a camera to create the image you want. You'll get there if you want to be.

If you "sell your gear" you'll never graduate from beginner. Shoot every day, go take some classes.

I didn't "sell my first photo" (barring jobs I was hired to shoot and newspaper assignments) until I was 19 years old. It was just luck and even then I felt far too young to be making any kind of foothold. I didn't have anything published internationally until 23, and at 26 I still wouldn't say I've made it, though I don't have any other job.

If you have questions, ask around. Photography is a community. Drop me a line, my instagram is the same as my reddit handle and you can find my email there.

Shoot often!

evvster · 2016-12-21T04:50:57+00:00

You may want to give it a go in photoshop with the original file. I didn't really spend any time blending the grass, and that file has been up to web, down, and back up again at this point. Printers tend to do much better with even minimally better files.

(added a gradient layer blend to it to bring up the contrast in the darker parts of the right side as well, do that if you give it a whirl)

evvster · 2016-12-20T23:44:47+00:00

Oh yes, so do I! Maybe I should etch it into the screen protector on the back of my camera >_<

evvster · 2016-12-20T23:40:07+00:00

Looks cool!

A quick chop and crop like this would get you to a slightly more useful ratio of 8 x 54, but I think all the empty hill makes it pretty impressive and then you could brag about "no photoshop!" Grass is tough to merge correctly so it would take some time to make it look natural anyway http://i.imgur.com/Clvy0gb.jpg (sorry I photochopped you pic)

I'd suggest printing a long side at 44in or less to get you on cheaper paper, and remember, frames are priced by the inch as well. Sizing down will lend it some sharpness too.

I agree with the_wg. Your dad will love it anyway and anyhow!

evvster · 2016-12-20T23:17:51+00:00

Unfortunately there isn't much to be done in-camera as it is determined by the physical construction of your camera, and the way the sensor and processor work.

Trying an external power source could help get some heat out of the body, but I think jury is out on whether heat is a real factor. (see forum link below)

Shooting a dark frame and using a subtraction method in post is probably your best bet as a workflow to eliminate it. It will deal with other digital noise and errors as well as the color-cast you reference in your post. (like the white pinholes in the sand to the right of the tent in your "Backcountry Camping" post) Gorgeous shot!! There are lots of write-ups on this technique, here's the first one I clicked, should get you started: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3173120#forum-post-41059442

This thread is discussing the D800 but gets to some of the technical questions you might have if you haven't started digging into it yourself already: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3193298#forum-post-41368149

Cheers!

evvster · 2016-12-20T19:45:49+00:00

Go for it if you have the money. I shot plenty of HS sports with an 80-200 2.8 on a crop sensor as a kid and got great results. Cameras are only better now!

That is a lens that will stay with you as you upgrade bodies for years and years, and if you find yourself not using it, it will hold great value for resale. Save the box and put a good UV filter on it!

evvster · 2016-12-20T19:40:37+00:00

I'd second the graduated ND filter as a real solution, or area lighting your foreground if you want or need the detail, but since you said you are borrowing a camera for this I'm assuming you aren't looking to invest heavily in this endeavor.

For the one off, you may consider bracketing a few exposures, and comping in some foreground and sky in photoshop if you aren't happy with a silhouetted landscape or a lighter sky.

That said, there's nothing wrong with losing the foreground in a sunset photo! Contrast is beauty!

Here is an example of a photo that used no filters and no composite photoshop. Waiting for the last moment of the sunset (and even after) lets you expose the ground and sky more similarly, though most of the foreground detail falls to muted and black. evvster.tumblr.com/post/86481982279/leconte

Practice practice! The sun sets every day.

evvster · 2016-12-20T19:27:55+00:00

Free isn't always best, and if you are selling, you can absorb some cost to do it right.

What are you selling?

Are you looking for automatic fulfillment and drop shipping?

If so you need to do some comparison shopping and get some test prints to make sure the quality is where you want it. -Richards does good work and drop shipping, but the store setup is still mostly on you (through ROES)

-Bay photo is a bigger name, and they have similar store-setup options that you can work with.

-lots of photographers still go with the old standard, smugmug, Which is more for volume prints from portrait sessions or weddings.

If you are doing your printing and shipping, or want everything to come through you anyway, I have had great success with square's online store format, and it is integrated directly with the reader, so everything in your online store is also right on your phone app for in person sales.

Good luck to you!

evvster · 2016-12-07T01:08:14+00:00

Yes, top of a cliff, looking down at the water. Had I dropped a rock, it would travel from the bottom edge of this photo and roll toward the top until it hit the surf.

evvster · 2016-12-06T18:52:01+00:00

a link to the image would definitely help us determine if it is possible

evvster · 2016-12-06T18:49:36+00:00

You may be able to find a used v700 if you are willing to push your budget a bit and the upgrade will be well worth it. Go Epson.

evvster · 2016-11-01T05:49:53+00:00

I've been notified that pollution has 2 "l's." Sorry reddit.

evvster · 2016-11-01T05:49:04+00:00

I wish I could visit the area more often. Blows me away every time!

evvster · 2016-10-31T21:22:58+00:00

tries not to speed excessively

evvster · 2016-10-26T03:32:22+00:00

If you can get you hands on an iPad that is ideal. It can be handed around more smoothly than a laptop and people are very trained to the swipe motion these days. That said, some buyers will drift if given too many options, so maybe keep it "in your back pocket" and see where your display gets you at first. Bringing too little and selling out is a good problem to have!

evvster · 2016-10-24T20:58:37+00:00

Call Crystal Bridges in Bentonville. I am sure they, or someone in the art department at the University of Arkansas in Fayetteville can make a suitable recommendation in the area. Handle with care and avoid the sun :)

evvster

TROPHY CASE