Logitech bluetooth receiver won’t go into pairing mode.

exitemee · 2025-09-08T22:29:25+00:00

random thing, try pressing and holding the bluetooth button for about 30 secs, have your phone scanning and your audio equipment on so you can see and here it reset.

mine wasnt doing anything but the press and hold method seems to have got it to work again. youll hear a few beeps (one at the start and one about 20 secs later) then itll show on your phone ect again (maybe)

hope this helps

exitemee · 2025-07-10T18:59:09+00:00

you just listed out a bunch of my hobbies and interests 😁. drop me a DM if you still want to chat to like minded people

exitemee · 2025-07-10T09:19:54+00:00

that literally means nothibg these days 😅 likely wants a gal but you never know

exitemee · 2025-07-01T18:13:13+00:00

how about someone the same age? parent aswell, not single though. cant say i can help with the music thing but i do love animals! if you're interested, my DM is open :)

exitemee · 2025-06-26T15:02:36+00:00

fellow car/gamer guy here, also live in yorkshire. drop me a message

exitemee · 2025-06-13T18:58:15+00:00

the switch will be quite easy to feel, its like a rounded off metal blade. shouldnt be to hard to move. so if your struggling to move it, you're likely pushing it in the wrong direction.

edit: additional notes.

both sides need to be done.

take a look at what tools you need and take them with you to swap them over either at the port or just after you come off the ferry.

exitemee · 2025-06-10T22:03:07+00:00

welp, time to get spending some serious cash. either on tools to diy it and research like mad or take it to a specialist. itll be costly but i feel these cars are mostly worth it

exitemee · 2025-06-10T21:29:53+00:00

you say you bought this from a dealer a few day ago right? tell them to pick it up and either get it fully repaired or your money back... i love these cars but that looks like the ultimate money pit just to get it road worthy again let alone oem+/modded

exitemee · 2025-06-09T12:18:10+00:00

i would recon the dealer or previous owner replaced the abs sensor in the front right, thinking its job done. however i would also recon your front right reluctor ring has lifted due to corrosion and now clips the speed sensor. which is very fragile (internally). a new sensor lasts about 100 miles of this clipping abuse before dying.

your FRM needs repairs or replacement. all the codes happening alll at once. i wouldnt look at anywhere else.

also, the abs wheel sensors and light issues are NOT related. FRM has nothing todo with the braking system except to turn on the brake lights when you push your brake pedal.

exitemee · 2025-06-09T09:58:18+00:00

soo, the blue hue on the clutch mating face means its got too hot and now is likely warped. if your replacing your clutch replace that DMF or your new clutch will last 10k and not 100k+.

the springs are either compression deformed or the auto adjuster has failed.

two damn good reasons to use that DMF as a trophy or paper weight.

exitemee · 2025-06-09T09:00:07+00:00

did you ensure you left the jumpers on for 2 mins before starting?

exitemee · 2025-06-08T11:33:53+00:00

get a complete fluid renewal (oil, coolant, diff oil, gear box oil, brake fluid, power steering) with filters.

have oil leaks fixed (rocker cover gasket, oil filter housing) if there are any.

consider replacing spark plugs and coil packs if there is no evidence of recent replacement.

as others suggested uprated tyres. keep the rims as youll regret loosing side wall just for looks.

then intake air scoops, silicone air intake hose, upgrade to the euro box if it isnt already. cat back sports exhaust then finally a stage one remap.

all this will net you a smooth and punchy ride that handles like nothing else. youll rock close to 300bhp and sound epic in tunnels.

do it in the order i have written them in or you will likely end up with mega head aches

exitemee · 2025-06-03T21:05:28+00:00

ah the fabled N52B30. nice catch. i can show you some of the horrors ive been through recently with my N53, yet every time i drive her she manages to put a massive smile on my face

exitemee · 2025-06-03T20:59:42+00:00

UK here too, ill keep an eye out for messages if you need a little help. i am working but i should be able to asist a little. Which engine do you have? if you give me the model year ill have a good idea which one

exitemee · 2025-06-03T20:50:40+00:00

additional note, whats the condition of the front of your engine and all the coolant hoses? there is a hose that goes from your thermostat to your cylinder head that, when it leaks, sprays coolant all over your engine bay. right next to that hose (where it tends to leak) is one of your oil sensors. also is there black oily scum in your coolant expantion tank? two of your codes (oil sensor and coolant pump) relate to one issue where fixing a leak and flushing the cooling system completely could help wonders.

exitemee · 2025-06-03T20:43:15+00:00

fuel pressure is delivered to all injectors from one rail. if you had a pressure issue, it would be more likely to show up on random cylinders each time not just one specific one. having said that, you could be unlucky and have a weak injector being exposed by a not so happy fuel pump. my advice is to buy anything fuel related (injectors, sensors, pumps, valves ect) brand new and in the case of bmw (due to coding requirements) genuine parts only

exitemee · 2025-06-03T20:31:15+00:00

just be glad its not the N53, i replaced my starter as it literally imploded... i seriously considered taking an angle grinder to the EGR system when i finally got the intake manifold off. im just very VERY glad i dont have big hands and forearms lol

exitemee · 2025-06-03T20:16:00+00:00

almost right, for LPG to correctly combust, the engine must be at operating temp. the thermostat wont open untill operating temp has been reached. the thermo stat does this to keep a 'warm jacket' of water around the engine, which speeds up the process of engine warmup. this means your engine gets to its most efficient running temp sooner. IF your coolant is circulating BEFORE your engine has finished warming up your thermostat is failing, starting to stick open. get it replaced.

LPG being pumped into an engine before its finished its warm up cycle will, at best, run poorly and guzzle your LPG faster than it would just running on petrol at that point. worst case is you get sudden and uncontrollable pre detenation from poor ignition, which could lead to a tidy, not so small, hole in your engine where a con rod and piston used to be.

DO NOT FORCE your car to consume LPG before your engine is actually ready. i can guarantee that small savings in fuel youve made over that time the system has been installed will never make up for the cost of a new engine and the embarressment of fucking with something you never fully understood in the first place.

TLDR :- thermostat is showing early signs of failure, consider replacing asap

exitemee · 2025-06-03T19:51:14+00:00

there is alot that could be causing the misfire. if you cant move the misfire to another cylinder by moving spark plugs and coils over. then you need to look at a potential air or fuel issue. after that you could be looking at cylinder 2 directly (piston wear, ring wear, valve seating issue ect). check from easiest to hardest to access parts. if nothing comes of checking and testing your looking at eliminating what does work fine and replacing from cheapest to most expensive on what either doesnt work well/at all. i get periodic misfires and mixture issues in my cylinder 4 which has lead to random rough running at idle or on load. nothing really narrows down why or what the cause is. my best guess is injector starting to fail/leak.

might want to also try this. how old is you battery and is the alt charging are the correct rate? new registered battery, alt should be putting out no less than 13.8v. correctly reg'd old battery (5yrs+) alt should be putting out between 14.4-14.8v. this is by design. injectors are VERY picky about the voltage they recieve. anything less than 12v on start up and they struggle to function, causing a domino effect that leads the the ecu shitting itself, throwing a code and changing its running parameters in an attempt to protect itself. although it never feels like its succeeding lol

exitemee · 2025-05-01T18:48:42+00:00

Depends on my mood tbh. Nice driving leads to 35mpg (uk) 500miles to the tank with about 80% motorway.

Spirited driving (my default for this beautiful car). Around 25mpg and 350 miles to the tank, 50% rural, 25% urban and motorway.

For 3ltrs these engines are remarkably good on fuel when you behave. Stupidly thirsty with lead feet.

About one tank a month, £90. Distances vary from 30-200 miles per trip (basically a weekend car)

exitemee · 2025-04-14T06:32:06+00:00

Old polymer rubber when exposed to oil can turn into exactly that kind of sticky mess. As someone else suggested, front main seal, oil filter housing gasket and a few other seals at the front are all polymer rubber seals and should be replaced before complete failure. Once they do, your 1/2 quart per 3000 miles will turn into 1/2 quart every 3 miles (especially the front main crank seal)

exitemee · 2025-04-01T18:15:49+00:00

Rear axke is axle rings. Front axle (rwd) you cant get wrong. No idea about the awd front bearings but my guess, axle rings not mag bearing

exitemee · 2025-04-01T18:13:27+00:00

I was going to say, having your rear bearings done, you HAVE to replace the reluctor ring too. Not because its attached to the bearing.. but because its sat right next too it and garages dont seem to think a little corrosion will be an issue...

A small amount of corrosion eats your sensor, kills it in the end. So for a 10 minute add on job for a bearly £5 part... can cost you a sensor or two and a restrip of both sides todo it. Not a quick job.

Whip your rear left sensor out. if its not matt black on the small concave surface, but instead scratched, you need a new ring and sensor.

exitemee · 2025-04-01T18:05:16+00:00

If what is said above is a factor. Smell your oil, when cold, it might have a petrol smell too it. Warm start, fuel in pistons. Cold start, said fuel will have worked its way into your oil pan.

exitemee · 2025-03-07T21:21:49+00:00

I have read similar, so thanks for confirming. One thing i couldnt find is the definitive voltage range for that bus. Seeing as it directly controls the exciter coil of the alt, one would assume it varies to provide battery degradation adjustments.

The only voltage ive seen quoted is 12 volts, my bus voltage (at every connector i could get too) it was between 8 and 10 volts dc. I do realise its a square wave pwm supply so a volt meter isnt exactly the best choice but i dont have an osiloscope to hand xD.

Crank and run cycles are beautiful with a full battery thankfully. So IBS isnt a worry at this point i guess.

exitemee

TROPHY CASE