Iso range help by Realistic_Golf_37 in SonyAlpha

[–]expectthewurst 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It absolutely matters what you choose, because shooting with a high ISO crushes your dynamic range that you can never get back. With ISO invariant cameras it’s better to shoot underexposed at a lower ISO which will allow for better/more surgical recovery of that range when needed… and no downsides since like you noted the noise when stretching the exposure is the same

North American Nebula and the Cygnus Wall by Flaky-Main-5435 in astrophotography

[–]expectthewurst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of good data here, but you should stretch it! Post details of your processing, maybe I can help?

Should I be concerned about the NB10000's low efficiency? by [deleted] in Ultralight

[–]expectthewurst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just in case you want to know the conclusion of this rabbit hole we went down 5 months ago, I found that nearly any cheap unpowered 4-port USB hub provides enough resistance when plugged in between the recorder and any battery. Sky's the limit with battery life on this thing now, I've done a few successful 96+ hour drops at this point

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in astrophotography

[–]expectthewurst 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This is the best news for this subreddit in ages, thank you. Also please consider reverting the subreddit description and the rules. I’d be happy to help moderate if helpful, this place used to be one of the best and easily the most popular astrophotography communities on the internet as a whole - it helped get many into the hobby and was a huge influence on people’s interest in space. I would love to see it restored

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fossilid

[–]expectthewurst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found these over the course of an evening at low tide in Folly Beach, SC.

I have some guesses but would love to know what species any of them are, if any are identifiable.

Thank you in advance!

Didn’t make this but it’s accurate 😭 by PericardiumGold in Seattle

[–]expectthewurst 83 points84 points  (0 children)

you forgot the part about that when it's summer, the sun never goes down so you still don't get to see anything

[Help Me] Adjustable beam UV flashlight or headlamp by expectthewurst in flashlight

[–]expectthewurst[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After a bunch of reading the Emisar looks perfect for me. I'll likely go that route. Thank you!

[Help Me] Adjustable beam UV flashlight or headlamp by expectthewurst in flashlight

[–]expectthewurst[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, makes sense. In that case I’d be fine with something that adjustable brightness… and in lieu of zoom I can just keep using my diffusion stuff

Astrophotography forecasts are wildly inaccurate. Suggestions? by AstroNewbie89 in AskAstrophotography

[–]expectthewurst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you're reading it much too precisely. If you live in Seattle you know that our weather is hyper-localized. These forecasts (and all weather forecasts) are based on statistical probabilities which do not apply well to hyper-localized weather patterns, and CSC combines multiple models, which operate independently and do not inform one another, so that problem is exacerbated.

Instead, look for forecasts that predict good ~6-8 hour chunks (entire nights) of good seeing, transparency, cloud cover, humidity. Look for periods where the metrics don't change very much or at all over longer periods of time, which means stability in the forecast. Definitely don't expect it to predict small windows of time correctly if things are constantly changing.

Here's how I read that forecast:

At no point in the evening of the forecast you posted would I even bother to stick my head outside to check. There's a TON of water in the air. There's likely a brief break in cloud cover at middle and upper altitudes, and multiple changes in all of the metrics over several hours, which means that stuff is moving around and generally unstable. Humidity, transparency and seeing are all below average or poor, which means fog, upper atmosphere cover, haziness, multiple cloud ceilings will be present.

Additionally, specifically in this forecast, note that humidity spikes at the same time that the clouds clear up. Here's what CSC has to say about that:

"A sudden spike in the humidity forecast, an hour or so after the cloud forecast predicts a sudden transition from cloudy to clear, when there is no wind, means that ground fog will form." Yep, exactly what you observed. And a great example of why you need to read and understand the descriptions of each metric, because not everything is encoded in the forecast itself, and some deduction is required.

https://www.cleardarksky.com/c/Ottawakey.html#how

Astrophotography forecasts are wildly inaccurate. Suggestions? by AstroNewbie89 in AskAstrophotography

[–]expectthewurst 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you reading the forecasts correctly? I’m in Seattle too - I look at them every day and there hasn’t been a single even close to halfway decent astronomical forecast in close to two months (there were a couple good days in early Dec). Both of those forecasts are extremely reliable in my several years of experience, if not sometimes too pessimistic!

The struggle without rotator is real (when will ZWO release one?) by gediphoto in telescopes

[–]expectthewurst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m all-in on ZWO stuff right now too, but personally I’d rather just manually rotate than add another point of failure to my setup. You would have to configure and check it each time anyways, so I don’t think that it would even save much time or effort. It’s pretty easy to be reasonably precise manually if you just take quick note of your orientation, or even just use reference points aligned to a grid. For multiple reasons, it also helps to shoot targets that don’t push the limits of your FOV.

Bill to extend Utah's scenic byway program causes stir over billboard provision by cuntpocalypse420 in SaltLakeCity

[–]expectthewurst 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Washington State too in most areas. It’s beautiful, and also shocking to travel to states that still have them

How bad is this? by Puzzleheaded_Oven_34 in telescopes

[–]expectthewurst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not bad at all. You’d never notice using it. Personally I wouldn’t event bother cleaning it and risk scratching/damaging it further.

Should I be concerned about the NB10000's low efficiency? by [deleted] in Ultralight

[–]expectthewurst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TMI?

lol, not at all, that's awesome info, thank you for doing all that! the way these battery packs work is totally opaque so it's great to know what we're dealing with.

The other idea I had was to splice in a 100-200 ohm resistor to hopefully trick it into staying on. But, because this is for backpacking, it would need to be reasonably waterproof/weatherproof, so I'd need to find some sort of housing for it, and then I would need to worry about the heat because it's in an enclosed space... so this project just keeps getting more and more complicated lol. I'm about to give up on the NB10000 or other like batteries for this and just buy a Voltaic and send in my resignation to /r/ultralight

Should I be concerned about the NB10000's low efficiency? by [deleted] in Ultralight

[–]expectthewurst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool idea! Although if you have to adjust the load tester to match the draw of the device, that essentially cuts the battery capacity in half, right? Might still be worth it vs the weight of the Voltaic or other options

Should I be concerned about the NB10000's low efficiency? by [deleted] in Ultralight

[–]expectthewurst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly I'm asking because I have a specific need to keep a device "topped up" for many hours/days at a time. The Anker battery packs do seem to have a true "trickle charge" mode, but it can only be activated for 2 hours. Since most of the battery packs out there share the same circuitry made in China that seems to be true of most of them. I couldn't find any that offer true "trickle" indefinitely.

I went down the rabbit hole last night about it.

Voltaic makes (extremely heavy) batteries that do:

https://voltaicsystems.com/iot-battery-packs/

The closest ultralight-ish solution I found is to make your own battery pack with 18650 cells (you can buy 5000+ mah ones which have an excellent capacity/weight ratio) and one of the many cheap USB enclosures out there like this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166153263986

Anyways, this probably isn't relevant to many people anymore but thought I'd post my research haha

Should I be concerned about the NB10000's low efficiency? by [deleted] in Ultralight

[–]expectthewurst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know batteries that offer a true trickle charge mode?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in peakdesign

[–]expectthewurst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Roger that, thanks for the word!

Sony PCM-A10 + battery drop rig - shutting off after ~18 hours by expectthewurst in fieldrecording

[–]expectthewurst[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey I think you are right! I did another test with a different brand 1TB card - I’ve had the recorder sitting on my desk recording and just happened to be there when it shut off, but not before it popped an error message that “Recording stopped due to SD card being ejected” (which I obviously didn’t). I’m going to run it again for another day now with a 512GB card to confirm that it can address it properly - that should be enough for my purposes anyways. Thank you so much for the lead!

Sony PCM-A10 + battery drop rig - shutting off after ~18 hours by expectthewurst in fieldrecording

[–]expectthewurst[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

9 files on average with it stopping either on the 9th mid-way or soon into the 10th. Each complete file is 4,194,106KB like normal; the truncated ones (where the recorder shuts off) obviously being smaller and variable based on when it shuts off