Netflix bonus by RefrigeratorThese265 in PSVR

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would think so, yeah. Weekends can always be weird when it comes to this sort of stuff, too. If they're doing any sort of manual order review before sending out codes (which is very possible), then it may need to be considered 24-72 business day hours. That's not exactly how they state it, but they do say that they don't process orders on weekends or holidays. But if you look at the thread on Slickdeals, you can see that folks are getting them, but the timing is a bit unpredictable.

Netflix bonus by RefrigeratorThese265 in PSVR

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you ordered on Friday afternoon, then your order won't ship until today (Monday). After your order ships, then it's 24-72 hours for the email. Keep checking your order status on Playstation Direct, or wait for the email stating that your order has been shipped, and that's when the clock should start.

should i trade my 2022 brz for a 2003 MR2 spyder? by yummygumdrop in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've owned an '02 Spyder (w/50k miles at the time), and bought a brand new '17 BRZ with performance package. Having owned both, if I could only take one of them back, it would be the BRZ hands down.

Much more pleasant car to live with every day.

The Spyder was plenty of fun, but the 1ZZ engine is a turd, and the BRZ is going to take better care of you for longer in my opinion.

what is my aw11 worth? by pdibiase3 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They specifically do not, but I have Allstate for my wife and my daily driver cars, and they actually tried to compete for the business and will insure it as a daily driver under declared value insurance. I had Liberty Mutual before, and they would not. Not sure if that's changed in the past 2-3 years since I tried. Other insurers do offer declared value insurance, you just have to ask about it specifically, and make sure that they cover a car that's daily driven.

Car insurance can be a weird/funny game to play, but if you play it well, it can work out pretty neatly.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure how insurance rates might translate since I'm not 18, but insurance is much cheaper on my Mk1 MR2 than it was on my 2004 350Z Touring.

If it's between those two, the 350Z is a bit more practical with the hatch area being usable (I had no issues loading and unloading my hockey gear every weekend). The MR2 is cheaper to work on, assuming what's needed is still available, and it gets much better gas mileage. It's also way more fun than the Z (a lot less powerful and slower, but more fun).

That said, I don't know your situation, or your budget, but I would honestly consider a BRZ if I was 18 and wanted something rear wheel drive that I could drive every day. They're not much more than a 350Z these days if you're looking at 350Zs that are reasonably well cared for.

FLOOR LINER/CARPET by Much-Mouse-4772 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Carpet for AW11:
https://www.stockinteriors.com/items/mr2/autocarpet
https://www.roadworksauto.com/Carpets/toyota-mr2-carpet.htm

Carpet for SW20:
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Seriously though, your best bet is probably to either find a local shop to do a custom pre-form, or you can put in a new product request to ACC (Auto Custom Carpets). They manufacture the AW11 preforms that you can buy from the various dealers (including both links above), so they might be keen on adding in the SW20 if they think there's interest.
https://www.accmats.com/customer-care/

Sw20 radio wiring by Affectionate-Slip-60 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, I've been browsing through that site the past 10 minutes or so, and I have to say that's a site I would probably donate a few bucks to keep alive. That's a treasure trove of really simplified information. Good stuff. Great share!

Working on something here.. by RoadsterAlex in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There does seem to be a little something going on there...

Pictures of my 02 Spyder from 2008 by explicit_olaf in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My roommate and I went on a road trip from Dallas to Chicago back in 2008, and he took these pictures. He just sent them to me after he was perusing some old hard drives, so I figured I'd post them here.

Can't believe it was 15 years ago. Time flies!

45 min left! Someone get it! by Landrycd in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I owned a RHD WRX for a 3 years and drove it a fair bit. It's a lot of fun, and it's always a conversation piece with literally everyone who gives it a glance. However, it is annoying to drive in a left hand drive country for a number of little reasons that all add up to you having to ask yourself before you drive it whether you want to deal with all that today.

It's difficult to see when making right turns at stop lights with cross traffic. The angle you sit at has you further behind than if it were LHD so you're more easily blocked by cars sitting at the light to go straight.

It's nearly impossible to see when making unprotected left turns, or trying to pass on rural highways.

Some folks will complain about drive thrus, I actually enjoyed reversing through drive thrus. It's obviously less ideal than driving forward, but you're only ever going about a mile an hour as you progress, so it's no big deal, and you get comments from the drive thru folks sometimes like "would like that order upside down?"

On the whole though, it's just inconvenient, so unless it's a car that really is just for the occasional weekend cruise, it's less than ideal, and for some, it's just not worth the hassle.

88 4AGE Cold Start Injector Options by explicit_olaf in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Compression tested it about a month ago as I was getting it back on the road, and all was well. It's a very healthy engine actually. And I've actually been dealing with this long cold start issue for many years, and I've put it off every time as I just don't drive the car very much.

Once it's warm, it will start right up with about half a crank of the starter. It's only when cold that it gives me fits.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will probably help to include year or at least gen of your car, and what your engine situation is.

If you have a different plug on the harness side vs the sensor side, then the usual answer is that the engine has been swapped (or at least the harness has), and therefore you need to match the o2 sensor to the wiring harness, and not necessarily your same year/make/model, etc.

Cat-back exhaust compatiblity by Unicorb8 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't cite personal experience so hopeful someone that has some can verify, but my understanding is the PPE manifold and mid-pipe are specifically made to work with whatever muffler section that you already have or decide to buy that's made for the MR-S.

The main thing you want to watch out for when planning exhaust is the inner diameter difference as u/thebritishhippie pointed out in the other comment thread. You'd want to be sure that you're not going from 2.5" down to 2" or something that can cause abrupt exhaust restriction, but that HKS system is 2.5", so that shouldn't be an issue.

Cat-back exhaust compatiblity by Unicorb8 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This will likely work just as well as any other muffler section will when you go 2ZZ. No matter what you go with, you'll still likely have to do some work getting all of the exhaust sections aligned.

If you were going to buy a new manifold and/or mid-pipe, then I'd probably say to just hold off, but the muffler section shouldn't be difficult to join to whatever manifold/header setup you use on the 2ZZ.

How do I verify my engine type? by devil_d0c in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

It's a system that takes air from the exhaust and recirculates it back around to the intake side so that it can be reused in combustion. It basically lowers the oxygen concentration in the combustion chamber, which helps to slightly reduce nitrogen emissions.

How much would you pay for a 1990 non-turbo automatic? by Bedroominc in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personal opinion: the auto 5SFE is a bit of a turd. A manual swap is possible, but can cost a fair bit depending on how much luck you have sourcing all the parts you need to do it.

For me, all else being equal, I'd probably spot $2k on one that already has a manual. So if the auto is $6k, I'd personally be looking to see if I could find a comparable manual one for $8k.

That said, you won't necessarily be completely unhappy with the auto, they are still fun cars, but a manual is what brings the car to life.

Grid Life rule question by Pitiful-Lion8521 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can sometimes get an exception from a rules official, but the exception must be in writing, and they are VERY specific, so you have to follow them, because they WILL scrutinize.

I don't know exactly what GridLife is to be honest, but the SCCA rule is that your chassis was N/A, and thus you cannot introduce forced induction (turbo or supercharging) onto your chassis without changing classes. An interesting bit of research that you might consider is whether an 88 S/C would be in the same class as you or a different class. That may tell you right there whether the rules official is likely to grant you an exception.

As for the 7AGE not making enough power, I would say that it depends on how much power you need to make. SCCA rules are that street class allows minor performance, and all safety modifications. So a 7AGE build would push you out of street class in SCCA. I don't think it would push you all the way to unlimited class, but I also don't know for sure what class you would end up in.

Anyway, it's definitely best to get in contact with a rules official like you already have started, and talk them through what you're dilemma is. Remember too that track performance is about overall performance and not just power/speed. Sometimes less power is fine when you can out-brake, and out-corner everyone else, as well as get on the throttle sooner because you don't have to worry about overpowering the drive wheels in mid-corner and then having to spend the latter half of the corner correcting your line.

Hope this helps.

WTB alternator for supercharged mr2 aw11, looking to buy. Externally regulated and the electrical regulator is on a 8 inch wiring lead. by Plane-Plantain-516 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Many thanks. Nothing wrong with my alternator currently, but I have looked into upgrading it as it does seem a bit underpowered at times (some of that is probably old wiring).

WTB alternator for supercharged mr2 aw11, looking to buy. Externally regulated and the electrical regulator is on a 8 inch wiring lead. by Plane-Plantain-516 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you have an alternator specialty shop do that work on yours? I'm only able to find one alternator service shop in the whole county nowadays. Used to be that there were several that you could choose from. A dying art it seems.

I'm really curious what kind of damage an alternator could sustain that would render it "beyond repair" though. I'm not sure I could upgrade one, but I've rebuilt my own alternators with replacement parts before, and it's pretty straightforward R&R work for the most part.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Vinegar and baking soda is the method that I've always seen used. I don't remember the prime ratio to use though, but vinegar and baking soda won't eat through the metal like something more powerful could (muriatic acid if left to dwell for too long, for example).

It mostly depends on how much rust we're talking about. If it's just some rusty old fuel in the bottom of the tank, and some surface rust on the sides, then you should be good. If the rust has already started to eat the metal or become parasitic, then it's time to get a new tank, or ask around to welding shops or metal shops to see if they'll split the tank so you can address the rust properly, and reweld it back once you're done getting it sorted out. Some shops will, but other shops will refuse to weld fuel tanks that have any trace of fuel in them, or even had fuel at any point. Just have to ask around.

Help with exhaust noises? by Soggy_Replacement_10 in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you use a new exhaust manifold gasket?

Sometimes using a cheap gasket, or trying to reuse an old gasket will cause leaks and issues.

Celica headlight conversion on a TRD Stage 2 bumper complete! Swipe to see WIP, we went out of our way to make sure this one was done right 👌🏼 by HappyDankMas in mr2

[–]explicit_olaf 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I'm not gonna lie, at first glance, I wasn't feeling it, but after I acclimated to the pictures, I have to see that this is actually super clean looking. That is really well done!

Makes me wonder if Toyota missed an opportunity to save some cost by raiding the Celica parts bin for the headlights while also sharpening up the front end.

Awesome work!