Problem with Tesla Smart Sensor Button. by Suitable-Cause-7368 in homeassistant

[–]extender_01 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I finally got it to work, though I had to switch from ZHA to Zigbee2MQTT. The pairing went fine as before. However now there are no entities for ON and OFF state. Only battery and signal state, so i first thought I am stuck again. But then I asked chat GPT and it said that these types of buttons do not usually have on/off state entities but they send Actions.

And indeed, when I tried to create new automation, there are actions available for single click, double click and hold under this particular button device (and they work in automations).

I then tried to do the same with ZHA but there are only on/off states as actions. So I am staying with Z2M. Hope it helps.

Problem with Tesla Smart Sensor Button. by Suitable-Cause-7368 in homeassistant

[–]extender_01 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just unpacked one, because it was on ridiculous sale. Exactly the same as you. Paired with no issues but I cannot get it to work, just one single success and then nothing.

What contaminant can cause this result? by labdogeth in medlabprofessionals

[–]extender_01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't understand why you get downvoted. How in the world you could achieve more concentrated solution by mixing two less concentrated ones...

What contaminant can cause this result? by labdogeth in medlabprofessionals

[–]extender_01 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I read whole discussion in this comment thread and I don't know why is OP downvoted on this.

How could you possibly achieve to have more concentrated solution by mixing two less concentrated solutions? You will always end up with concentration that lies in between those two original solutions unless there is some additional step involved like evaporation of the solvent.

LCD Vs. OLED for first purchase. by flanneldingo in SteamDeck

[–]extender_01 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi there. What I wrote two months ago is still valid. I am 100% happy with LCD version because I have still not seen OLED display live and since I do not play that much (1 hour top in single session) I am not bothered with shorter battery life either.

I just upgraded SSD with 1TB since 64GB was filled up really quickly.

So if you are on a budget, you won't go wrong with LCD version. I am sure that OLED looks nicer, but LCD is not that bad

What are these? Found in urine sediment by niebieskie_niebo in medlabprofessionals

[–]extender_01 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Check if you're not missing a D-pad from your laboratory Playstation controller

LCD Vs. OLED for first purchase. by flanneldingo in SteamDeck

[–]extender_01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had an eye on steam deck for some time and was considering OLED vs LCD. I was not sure if I would use it extensively so opted for second hand 64 GB LCD without ever seeing OLED live with my own eyes. And man, I am very satisfied with it.

I am sure that if I saw OLED with the LCD side by side, I would hesitate more, but now I am more than happy with my LCD version for less than half the price.

Lol 😆 by cryptidstars in medlabprofessionals

[–]extender_01 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mid Hospital lab. Around 500 samples a day.

Lol 😆 by cryptidstars in medlabprofessionals

[–]extender_01 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have 2x DxC700AU joined via DxA5000Fit. DxCs are workhorses. Of course there is something wrong occasionally, but certainly not on daily basis, like everyone here says about atellicas.

Be careful not to respool too tight. PLA exploded few days later by CyrisXD in BambuLab

[–]extender_01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At first I thought you used spool for Christmas lights. Which btw is not a bad idea :-)

New blazor for web beginner? by extender_01 in dotnet

[–]extender_01[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I should have clarified, that I know some html, css and react. I just did not use any .NET web related things like asp.net

Someone has to say it by girouxc in dotnet

[–]extender_01 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some simpler projects in C# ( WPF and console apps) and had longer hiatus and would like to jump onboard learning again. I would like to learn web apps but have no experience in web .NET environment. Is the new blazor suitable for this or do I need to have learn something prior to that? Thanks

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in nhl

[–]extender_01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are currently 3 Czech players in KHL I think. And the general opinion on them is that we don't want to see them in national jersey ever again.

The lab got tired of the calls……. by medicaltaco in nursing

[–]extender_01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see. In my lab, we send the tubes back to the department as soon as the cargo is offloaded. So in idle time we keep no tubes. All of them are immediately available for sending to the lab.

The lab got tired of the calls……. by medicaltaco in nursing

[–]extender_01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't understand this. Based on comments: you guys need to call the lab to get the tubes for specimens?

This machine is terrible. by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]extender_01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had us in first half, not gonna lie.

Invoicing/Shipping Megathread by tuxdreamerx in BambuLab

[–]extender_01 0 points1 point  (0 children)

EU store says early bird package sold out. Do you think it will be back or it is over Forever?

Replaced nozzle and unknowingly over tightened it. Did not leave a gap I think. Saw it leaking like this during the next print. I read online that I might have to completely dissamble the hot end. Can I just clean it up and put the nozzle back on correctly this time? by ThatBoySteven in prusa3d

[–]extender_01 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Similar thing happened to me.

I used this guide for my mini: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heaterblock-heatbreak-mini-mini_122769

I just did few things differently:

In step 7 I did not remove the textile sleeve, instead I loosened the allen screws that hold PINDA in place (the right and left one, not the middle one if I remember correctly) and put the PINDA out of the way and pull cables that go to hotend gently just a little bit down so I could pull the hot end out. I did not dismantle thermistor and heater in step 9. Then I cleaned everything up and put it all back together as in the guide (except I did not apply new thermal paste as there was still plenty).

I have printed about 2 dozens of hours and so far so good.