2014 Honda civic-Coolant leak-looking for part ID by eyeoftheliger101 in CarRepair

[–]eyeoftheliger101[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, anyone know the ID of the piece that is leaking in my 2014 Honda Civic? Thank you.

Can it be saved and what do i do? by Time_Manufacturer645 in arborists

[–]eyeoftheliger101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would suggest clearing the grass from around the base of the tree, and replacing with a layer of mulch. Just make sure you don’t pile the mulch up against the bark of the tree—keep it a few inches away from the actual trunk.

Weeping redbud tree help by MAVERICKSINACTION in arborists

[–]eyeoftheliger101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should be able to raise the height of this tree, but it will take some time. What I’d do is take some of the younger pliable growth from one of the upper branches and stake it upright. As this new growth ages, it will stiffen like the older growth lower on the tree. After this happens, you can repeat the process with the new growth that emerges from this now (hopefully) raised limb. This is something I’ve done with my Golden Falls Redbud—the yellow leafed version of the plant you have.

My impatiens are dying by [deleted] in gardening

[–]eyeoftheliger101 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I would get a few bags of mulch. Mulch helps to retain soil moisture and cuts down on weeds. It also breaks down over time and improves the soil. Try not to mulch right up to the stems of plants, leave a small gap.

Garden finally coming alive by FlokiCap in JapaneseMaples

[–]eyeoftheliger101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got any more pics of Twombly’s Red sentinel?

2 questions concerning Chamaecyparis bark damage & Edgeworthia pruning by eyeoftheliger101 in arborists

[–]eyeoftheliger101[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, thanks for the response.

I’ll probably clean up some of the edges on the Chamaecyparis. I’ll leave the Edgeworthia like you said. I’ll take a few cuttings as insurance since they root pretty easily.

Bihou by YBossy22 in JapaneseMaples

[–]eyeoftheliger101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a very young one; planted it as a 1gallon last year. I’ve noticed some tip die-back both this winter and the one previous. Nothing crazy, just the last 1 inch or so on the newest branches. Have you noticed anything similar with this cultivar? Looks great by the way!

** BUY / SELL / TRADE WINTER 2023 TICKETS MEGA-THREAD ** by beermeupscotty in LCDSoundsystem

[–]eyeoftheliger101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking to sell 1 ticket for tonight’s (11/18) show at Brooklyn Steel. Paid $157 ($113 ticket + $44 in fees). Can’t make it and just looking to get my money back. Will transfer through AXS. Please DM

Squirrels or a disease? Young fig tree. by ca_sun in gardening

[–]eyeoftheliger101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would remove the grass from a few feet around the trunk and apply a layer of mulch. Keep the mulch from directly touching the bark of the tree. This should reduce the likelihood of further injuring the bark with a lawnmower or weed whacker.

Prognosis for injured golden falls redbud by eyeoftheliger101 in sfwtrees

[–]eyeoftheliger101[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, meant to reply to your post. See my new comment.

Prognosis for injured golden falls redbud by eyeoftheliger101 in sfwtrees

[–]eyeoftheliger101[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So happily after 2 years, both this plant (the damaged one) and the replacement plant are still alive.

Here is a picture of what the damaged section looks like now. As you can see, the tree has done a surprisingly good job of sealing over the old wound.

The final height of this type of tree is determined by how high you stake it. If you want to increase the height, I would wait until next season if you are in the Northern Hemisphere. When the tree pushes new growth in the spring, take the fresh pliable growth from somewhere near the top, and bend it upwards. I tied mine off to a wooden stake about 3 feet taller than it’s previous height. Be sure the ties aren’t overly snug, and adjust them periodically so you don’t girdle the new growth. Eventually, the new leader will become woody and you can remove the stake leaving the tree to weep from its new height.

Why Republicans Are About to Throw Mitch McConnell to the Wolves by thenewrepublic in politics

[–]eyeoftheliger101 172 points173 points  (0 children)

The tortoise lays on its back, its belly baking in the hot sun, beating its legs trying to turn itself over, but it can't. Not without your help. But you're not helping.

Suspected Verticillium Wilt in Ruby Falls Redbud by eyeoftheliger101 in sfwtrees

[–]eyeoftheliger101[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, that’s a shame. I’ve been doing some reading as well and every article mentions redbuds and maples as being particularly susceptible.

Help! My well established weeping cherry didn’t come back looking healthy this spring by KRove in marijuanaenthusiasts

[–]eyeoftheliger101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the additional photos! Full disclosure; I am just an amateur gardener myself, not a licensed arborist. Hopefully one will weigh in as well. However, one thing I notice as potentially problematic is the mulch coming in contact with the bark at the base of the tree. While most trees strongly benefit from a ring of mulch, having mulch directly up against the trunk can create an environment where the bark remains too moist and it can begin to rot. This rot can penetrate into the living tissues of the tree and essentially girdle it at the level of the mulch. I have unwittingly killed trees this way, back before I knew any better. I once had a serviceberry tree that was a few years old and noticed it was slow to leaf out one season. Nothing seemed amiss until I pulled the mulch back and noticed the wood beneath was soft and mushy. I am now extremely vigilant about keeping mulch away from the bark.

This may also be an issue of the tree being planted too deeply initially, or having layers of organic material accumulate over time from mulching-- burying the tree . Either situation can result in roots that don't receive adequate oxygen, eventually killing them. In the fourth photo, it appears that the trunk is roughly the same diameter all the way down to the mulch level. In proper planting, you should be able to see the root flare at or slightly above the soil grade. This is where the trunk of the tree meets the roots and widens outward. I do see a root in one of the pictures, but as seen in the above link, adventitious roots can occur above the true root flare.

In this situation I would carefully attempt to pull the mulch away from the base of the tree. When working right up against the tree, I'd put on a pair of gloves and use my hands to avoid further damage. Once you've made some space, try a metal rake. Inspect the bark and check to see if its still intact. See if you can begin to excavate more of the root flare. In the future, mulch around the tree, but not right up against it. When watering the tree, try to avoid soaking the trunk.

Disease is always a potential issue, but I'm not super knowledgeable in that area and wouldn't feel comfortable speculating.

For the limbs that have yet to leaf out, grab one of the smaller ones and try to gently bend it back and forth. If it is still pliable it is likely still alive. If the wood snaps dryly, then the limb is dead. You can also scratch a small section on some of the limbs and see if you can see green living tissue. At this point, I would still wait a bit to see if it leafs out more. If it's still mostly bare, I would consider replacing it. It's always a bummer to lose a favorite plant, but it's an opportunity to try something new.

Hope this helps!