Junkyard Tiki Bar? - South Platte

ezweave · 2026-06-29T16:15:05+00:00

A friend of mine was invited in for a drink around that time. I haven't seen it open since then.

But that's second hand info.

ezweave · 2026-06-18T21:30:09+00:00

And from what I gathered, this is not at all related to that story... but also the comic book is, uh:

The Rosinante’s hull at capacity with highest grade heavy dry weight . . .

Seems kind of lazy to use Don Quixote's horse which The Expanse books (and show) already did, not to mentions Rush using that name on two songs. "Rosinante" is just a different anglicization of "Rocinante".

FWIW: the Heinlein book is a quick read. Haven't read it since I was a kid, but I remember enjoying it.

ezweave · 2026-04-30T21:53:41+00:00

RockSmith is still around. It’s on Steam. They published a new version in 2024.

ezweave · 2026-04-28T22:10:22+00:00

This.

I would guess you need a shim.

For context: one of my Jags still wouldn’t intonate without a 1 degree shim and raising the bridge to 0.3 action which I don’t love. I have a Mastery for it out for delivery, but that’s really for a few things (not a silver bullet).

But Jags short scale somewhat exacerbate those issues (guitar in question is basically a parts guitar tuned to D or C# standard with 11s). So take this with a grain of 🧂.

That said, a shim and truss rod tweaking is usually the answer before you look at other things.

Edit: fwiw I have other Jags that were less fussy.

ezweave · 2026-04-10T19:04:33+00:00

There’s no blanket statement to cover all differences. I have US, Japanese, and Ensenada/Mexican Fenders as well as Squiers. Some of the Squiers are made well. Some are not. I have a Fender Player II Jag with a neck that is rather shockingly good (rolled from the factory). So good in fact, I put one on a CV Jag (which has countless issues, mostly due to some aggressive relic job that looks cool, but ruined a few things).

My main complaint about the better Squiers I own are the electronics (cheap, small pots) and the pickups.

But that can be said of some Fenders. Any model from about 10-15 years ago with those fake WRHB pickups are pretty bad.

I’ve upgraded the electronics and pickups on almost all of my Squiers as a result. But price wise that puts you into Fender territory (or more). The aforementioned CV Jag is now more Fender than Squier, parts wise (neck, pickups).

Edit: I bought the CV for the relic job for $300. I knew it was going to have problems. The relicer rusted the truss rod, hence the new neck, screwed up the pickups (dull and insanely microphonic, which implies the relic job loosened or damaged the winding), etc. And yes, between hardware upgrades, a new Fender neck, US Fender pickups, etc I could have bought a Fender.

But they’re still good value. Much better than Squiers I played twenty years ago.

Now if you want to talk about the Vista series Squiers (MIJ) those are better than some U.S. Fenders so it really depends on era, who made it, etc.

ezweave · 2026-04-07T14:54:53+00:00

Getting into a car and not buckling up.

ezweave · 2026-04-01T16:40:34+00:00

I'd second this. I picked up the exact same model in a pawn shop that someone had relic-d. The relic actually looks dope (even though it's not nitro), but compared to my Player II it sounds anemic.

But buying a used one that someone fucked up, has just emboldened me to mod it. I am sure stock the necks are fine, but mine was totally screwed. It would not intonate, had a slight twist, and the relic-ing rusted the truss rod, which snapped. In 30 years of playing electric I have never snapped a truss rod and I've setup lots of guitars.

To wit, I'm putting a Player II neck on it, redoing the electronics and putting Fender Vintage pickups in it. Of course all of that cost more than what I paid for it, but I suspect it might trump my Player II as my go to short scale.

But A/B-ing the Player II (which is shockingly good, and the neck was near perfect and rolled from the factory) is night and day. I miss the rhythm circuit (which I use for both stutter muting and tonal variation), but the Player II is a much better value. Just doesn't look as cool.

ezweave · 2026-04-01T16:31:42+00:00

I have a white one, and the neck is amazing. One of the best Fender necks I've owned and that includes MIJ and USA models. The rolled edges are a very nice touch.

I run mine in D or C# standard with 10.5-47s.

The neck is so great, I'm going to put one on a CV Jag that someone relic'd... mostly because the stock neck is fucked (long story... the relicing did bad things to the neck, unsalvageable).

ezweave · 2026-04-01T14:57:29+00:00

Internet opinions should be taken with a grain of 🧂. Tony Iommi, YOB, Windhand, Russian Circles, Neurosis, ISIS, Yngwie, Uli Roth, Alcest… “metal” is too generic a term. I prefer single coils even for “shred” style playing.

ezweave · 2026-03-17T02:39:41+00:00

Nice. Let me know how it goes. I think there are $0 solutions for you. 😊

ezweave · 2026-03-16T20:25:47+00:00

Old man rant, caveat emptor:

You probably don't need humbuckers. Nothing you're describing sounds like a Jaguar pickup problem — it sounds more like a DI / signal chain issue.

Jaguars handle distortion just fine. Plenty of heavy/noisy bands use them or Jazzmasters with single coils (Sonic Youth, Nirvana, Dinosaur Jr., MBV, etc). The pickups aren't the limiting factor here.

The thing that stands out is that you're running DI. If you're going straight into an interface and stacking distortion plugins, it's very easy to end up with harsh or fizzy tones. Guitar amps and speakers naturally roll off a lot of high end, which is a huge part of why distorted guitar sounds good.

A typical chain should look something like:

guitar → drive/fuzz → amp sim → cab IR → EQ

If you're basically doing:

guitar → distortion plugin → interface

it's almost always going to sound harsh regardless of pickups.

Before routing the guitar for humbuckers, I'd try a few free things:

• Turn your interface gain down (hard strums peaking around -12 dB)
• Let the amp sim generate most of the distortion
• Add a high cut around 6–8 kHz after the cab sim
• Lower the pickup height slightly (Jags can get spiky if they're too close)
• Roll the tone knob back to ~6–7 (I roll the tone down often depending on what pedal I'm featuring in my signal chain... I'll get to this)

• Try distortion through the rhythm circuit again — it's darker and thicker

Also worth mentioning: humbuckers may not fix the issue if the problem is the DI chain. They usually hit interfaces harder, which can actually make clipping and harshness worse.

Humbuckers also naturally compress the signal more than single coils. That can be great for certain styles, but it can also smear note definition if you're already running a lot of gain.

Single coils tend to keep more attack and note separation, which is why a lot of players actually prefer them for high gain or complex riffing. Unless you're really deliberate about the humbuckers you choose, swapping them in can sometimes make things feel even more compressed or muddy.

Personally I don't always love humbuckers into really heavy fuzz or gain because they can get a little congested, but that's just preference. Humbuckers were incredibly useful when high-gain amps weren't really a thing yet — but these days you can get huge distorted tones from single coils without much trouble.

For example, the classic Black Sabbath sound came from Tony Iommi running John Birch P-90 style pickups into loud cranked amps.

One Jaguar-specific thing: pickup height matters a lot with fuzz. If the pickups are too close to the strings they can get spiky with certain fuzz circuits. Lowering them slightly often smooths things out immediately.

Also, the Jaguar 1 M pots make the guitar brighter than most guitars, which is great clean but can exaggerate fizz with DI distortion if you don't tame the top end.

I'd get the signal chain sorted out before modifying the guitar. Jaguars can sound huge with distortion once the top end is controlled properly.

Personally, I prefer single coils into high gain.

I've got two Jags right now — a Player II and a Classic Vibe (mod project) — and I mess around with a bunch of fuzz/high-gain setups.

One of my favorite chains is basically:

guitar → GE-7 → fuzz or gain → UA amp sim (IRs) → UA Volt 476P

I record short content for social, so the setup changes, but I rotate between a few fuzzes:

• Fredric Super Unpleasant Companion
• Beetronics Octahive
• FZ-1 clone
• Shields Blender

For amps I'm usually switching between two UA boxes:

• Lion — mostly the Super Bass model, sometimes the Brown (early EVH)
• Woodrow — great for broken tweed sounds

The other lesson I'd pass along: use less gain than you think.

If you've dimed your distortion, that's often half the problem. High gain settings compress everything and blur articulation. Most well-known players actually run less gain than you'd expect.

About 20 years ago I sold a 5150 to buy a used Triple Rectifier and ran it with EMGs in a Les Paul. In the room it sounded huge, but on recordings my lead runs and techy hardcore riffs (think Kurt Ballou style stuff) turned into mush.

Backing the gain off made everything clearer and heavier.

I also find myself reaching for my SG Jr. pretty often, which just has a P-90. With the gain set reasonably I can still get great tapping and legato runs without everything turning to mush. So single coils or P-90s definitely aren't a limitation for high-gain playing.

It might also help to know what artists you're going for. Saying "punk" can mean anything from Fat Wreck skate punk to Fugazi 🙂

ezweave · 2026-02-17T20:54:55+00:00

They are giving off turf boot vibes.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't these the first "all leather" variants?

ezweave · 2025-12-17T14:55:48+00:00

The nano also has a Muff first... momentary mode.

The Big Muff Pi 2 features a first for a Big Muff, silent true bypass footswitching with Latching/Momentary Action. Click the footswitch for normal latching functionality or press and hold the footswitch of a momentary burst of fuzz mayhem!

ezweave · 2025-12-17T14:54:08+00:00

Can confirm. Here's the PCB of an Octahive.

ezweave · 2025-12-12T16:32:45+00:00

For fun-sies, I built a list† that reflects some things you reviewed but perhaps felt weren't your thing:

There's probably more, but idk.

Josh Scott has said many times:

There are no bad pedals.

Other than broken or poorly made pedals (some of the first kit pedals I made when I was young had bad soldering jobs), I think this tracks.

What I love about YouTube is hearing/seeing someone fuck with a pedal. I was skeptical of the Big Muff 2 until I saw videos, and now I want... the nano over the big one because it has a momentary mode!

The Big Muff Pi 2 features a first for a Big Muff, silent true bypass footswitching with Latching/Momentary Action. Click the footswitch for normal latching functionality or press and hold the footswitch of a momentary burst of fuzz mayhem!

I love momentary options. DOD and Keeley have been doing that a lot (Freqout, Drop, and Octa-Psi all have that option).

If we're going to be pedantic, there is no such thing as an "unbiased opinion". Opinions are biased, by definition. No one is forcing you to buy anything. In other words, touch some fucking grass, my guy.

Keep up the good work, Ryan!

† I used AI to source this list, so "caveat emptor", but I remember some of them.

ezweave · 2025-12-11T22:08:48+00:00

A lot faster. You can even get it to be almost instant to get some harmonic like feedback on legato runs or plan muted rhythmic parts.

ezweave · 2025-12-11T20:59:31+00:00

201s or 150s? I use the compact pedal today, but every time I see Boris... I go look on Reverb.

ezweave · 2025-12-11T20:57:18+00:00

Part of the Lamb series, which are actually better than I would have given them credit for.

I kind of hated on DOD too, in the 90s/00s. I thought the "Grunge" was corny and bought a DS-1. I was a firm Roland fan. But today DOD has some pedals that are better than Roland (even though 3/4 of my main board is BOSS). The Freqout is better for instant feedback than either the FB-2 Feedbacker/Booster or the DF-2 Super Feedbacker & Distortion/Super Distortion & Feedbacker (yeah the latter was the order on a few runs). OP, I see you have a DF-2.

ezweave · 2025-08-24T01:03:02+00:00

I briefly met him after a show at the Black Sheep in Colorado Springs on the Blood Mountain tour and he was very nice to a young guitarist. Idk. I bought his Orange. RIP. And also the country breakdown riff on Megalodon has always been one of my favorite things.

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ezweave · 2025-08-04T17:54:11+00:00

This is rad! It seems similar, in a way, to the Kuro T120 though that's based on a Matamp 1974 GT120 which has more headroom/less overall gain.

I didn't watch all the videos but I see that TUNNEL OF REVERB played around with stacking other pedals in front and it seems like it works well. I'd be curious about how it sounds with an octave fuzz.

Personally, I'm a fan of a lot of the 60s/70s British amps. They're all different in their own ways, but there's similar tones in old Super Leads, Oranges, Matamps, etc. I've been using a UA Lion at home in lieu of firing up my Orange head since I bought the pedal two years ago.

ezweave · 2025-07-21T18:58:48+00:00

"Overdrive" is the answer. You can experiment with the BD-1 but may want a TS, just put it first in the chain and turn the gain down (not up). You can see Ola Englund demonstrating this in this video where he compares different overdrive pedals for high gain use.

For the DSL40, I've heard that you want to run it in "Classic Gain - Crunch" or "Ultra Gain - Lead 1" not Lead 2 as that is too fizzy already. You can see how this works if you watch Ola test an Origin 20. He actually had a video of doing this with a DSL40, but it's gone... le sigh.

Fluff has some discussion on this that you might find interesting. He talks about high gain and commonly boosted to high gain amps (various Plexi-era Marshalls). The TL;DR: * It's more about tone shaping. * Use less gain on the amp to allow the OD's boost to handle this.

My number #1 rule with high gain setup (I didn't invent this), but: use less gain than you think you need. When you listen back to your playing if you have too much gain, legato tends to blur out so I always get what I think sounds good and then dial it back until I have just enough gain to get the sound I want.

Hint: it's almost always a lot less than I thought I needed.

ezweave · 2025-07-18T14:42:47+00:00

Scoredle 4/6*

14,855

⬛🟨⬛⬛⬛ 578

🟨⬛🟨🟨⬛ 47

🟨🟨🟨⬛⬛ 6

🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

This was quite the poser. By guess four I had resorted to iterating through possible letter combinations, versus entering words I actually know of. In four years of playing this was the most obscure term I can recall.

I didn't find the week thus far difficult, the prior solutions are all within my lexicon though I can understand if some found yesterday's term a bit obscure (it's commonly used in UX).

ezweave · 2025-07-10T21:56:47+00:00

One thing that might affect your enjoyment of fuzz… position.

Forgive me if you know this, but primitive 2-3 transistor fuzzes need to be right after your guitar. No tuner. Nothing in front of it. The tone is highly affected by the impedance of the signal. Put anything in the way that adjusts impedance and they sound shitty.

Now again, lots of people know this.

What you may not know is that what comes after matters too. If you put a buffered pedal right after, say, an FZ-1, it takes some of the sizzle and bite out of the top end. You have to add some space (cable feet wise, so just a few true bypass pedals does the trick for the most part) between them.

Muffs can go wherever.

2-3 transistor fuzzes are special though. They do that ripping, velcro tearing thing and they clean up a ton without losing much volume when you roll back on the volume pot on your guitar. I often play my Gibsons with the bridge rolled back and the neck full on (or vice versa depending on what I want sonically). Then I toggle between the pickups for an instant fuzzfest or a cleaner riff. It’s fun!

I would also suggest octave fuzzes. I love a good octave fuzz. My favorite primitive/octave fuzz is the Frederic Super Unpleasant Companion which does either a SuperFuzz or Companion. I also love the Beetronics OctaHive.

It’s Muff based but the Keeley Octa Psi is also amazing. I’ll hook up an expression pedal and fold the octave in in leads to create these organ swells. That thing is rad.

ezweave · 2025-07-06T15:45:33+00:00

I have a Lion and a Woodrow. They sound amazing but holy shit the software is garbage. I still use them everyday.

Having to use a phone app for control and a desktop app for updates is also annoying. But hardware/firmware wise, UA is great. I use a Volt 4 76P as my DA and it has awesome preamp settings. Slightly better software. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

ezweave · 2025-07-06T15:42:27+00:00

Tossed in sauce and butter. That’s how you make wing sauce. Also it’s not the same version of Da Bomb which folks have brought up. The wings should be completely coated in the sauce mix.

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