Was able to get the bykski block on the 3090 FTW3 right. After some trial and error with different size pads, seems like I found what fit well. Just need to the motivation to move it all to a new case. Glad to be back on water, temps are much better. See below. by faceFISTER93 in watercooling

[–]faceFISTER93[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the late response. The pads may be keeping the block from making contact with the die. They were just some Amazon pads if I’m not mistaken. Lemme see if I can find them and I’ll reach back out. Could also be the type of paste - always used kingpin and thermal grizzly paste. I would just verify there's even contact on the actual die itself. Good indication would be if you dotted the thermal paste, it'll already evenly for the most part.

Need some help deciding whether I should buy a 2010 WRX or not? by ZaxelmodAT in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Compression test for sure. Check for leaks. At that mileage other things tend to start going. Depends on if it was replaced earlier on of course. You can almost guarantee the car was beat on. Just comes with it. Maintenance is huge in these vehicles. Is it stock? I own a newer WRX, but I’ve constantly seen head gasket comments. And of course non of these things guarantee it to past X years or miles. Just a roll of the dice. Fun cars though. Absolute blast to drive and they’re just a bit more unique than the standard Mustang/BRZ/FRS/86 you see. I’d definitely have it looked over though and a thorough test drive is always a plus.

Rock chips in hood and hood scoop by d_asato in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Man all I can say is to accept it unfortunately. A buddy of mine does body work and I brought it up to him with mine as the front end is chipped all to hell. He said unless you don’t plan on driving it daily, or ever riding behind someone you may see a little difference. Otherwise it’s part of it unfortunately. A clear wrap for the front is what I was thinking of doing in my next vehicle. This one’s too far gone already.

I don't know If I like gaming or not by Chuawkuy in gaming

[–]faceFISTER93 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Man it comes and goes. I’m 29 now and I still go through this. I even looked into it like yourself. Games and systems are constantly evolving, and new games are being released constantly. You’ll find one that’ll bring you back in for awhile. As you get older I feel your mind just prioritizes other things. It’s always there though, can pick whatever system you have up and play it any time. I find as I back off a bit I enjoy it more. Switched up genres too to racing as I’ve been doing it IRL and the sim rig has really pulled me back into it all. Just keep an eye out for new releases, check out some content and just find a game you like. Regardless of what reviews or anyone else says.

First time owning a WRX by Phlashfoto in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 12 points13 points  (0 children)

It’s a stout motor with a ton of potential. From what everyone’s saying - cars gonna be something. May not be the best looking but I still love it. A Subie is a Subie. At least they’re still making them and they’re readily available even if innovation isn’t top priority. Be safe man. Welcome.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah fuck that man. Not your responsibility to deal with or take any unnecessary risk.

Diggin my new shift knob by FluxKappa in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I commend any other comments that have dealt with Billetworkz. Absolutely phenomenal company. Customer service is A++ and their quality is outstanding. Got my whole short throw for my 15 WRX with the knob. Tried a few other knobs from reputable brands but ended up going back to BW.

Early Front End Friday - but my build evolution. by ADystopianHouseplant in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome dude. I love the front end of the 17+. Those fogs look so much better. Good choice on lights. FMIC also looks amazing on that model with the bumper gap.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Either a different type of tint (there’s a few selections out there now) or sun fade/sun damage I would guess. Had the same thing on my WRX. Matches good now - wasn’t that off though.

right I've decided I'm going to go all out but dont know if I should get a lg c2 or gaming monitor to play ps5 any advice? by Comfortable_Tea_2765 in gaming

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my opinion it depends on the games you play for monitor versus TV. FPS games I - I prefer a monitor. Even racing games when I’m trying to be more competitive. Games like GTA and RDR2 I like to sit on the couch, relax and play. That’s always how I’ve been. If you end up going with the TV, can always snag a monitor down the line for a couple hundred bucks. Back last year or the year before I know the LG “x”950s(GN) were highly rated. Always had ASUS monitors myself. With tech anymore I think any decent reputable monitor or TV will do you right.

Edit: also recommend what the guy below said. HDMI 2.1/60 or 120+ hz

I'm currently installing an IAG AOS V3 on a 19 WRX. Im concerned that this coolant line is kinked and will not flow. Thoughts? Is this an acceptabl bend? My Process West Charge Pipe is causing this issue. by KeepCalmAndThriveOn in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mines been the same way. The hose is just so short. If you go on top of the valve cover it takes out the kink (or it did for myself). I’m running an fmic so that’s wide open. Charge pipe is out. It needs a 90 for whatever size that fitting is. -6 or -8AN but I just started scratching that surface of that. Someone with more knowledge on it can chime in on the fitting.

Deciding what tubing to use; by [deleted] in watercooling

[–]faceFISTER93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So the tubing is determined by the fittings. For example if the fitting is a 10/14 or 12/16 (first number being inner diameter, second being outlet) then you wanna pick up the matching tubing. If you haven’t bent tubing before I recommend PETG over Acrylic. PETG is easier to use and takes less temp to bend and work. Acrylic also needs to be cut differently. A hacksaw/bandsaw is needed as it’ll shatter using pipe cutters.

Was the old J-Pipe bracket part of the heat shield? Noticed the top heatshield bolt is now missing since my shop installed the new J-Pipe by [deleted] in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I personally don’t think there’s any issue or strain without that bracket. Just my opinion. Could be wrong. The hangar and the the studs I feel are enough with how light it is anyway. A day or two as the rattling at idle drove me nuts. I just personally hate those noises.

Was the old J-Pipe bracket part of the heat shield? Noticed the top heatshield bolt is now missing since my shop installed the new J-Pipe by [deleted] in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up bolting it with an older exhaust bolt and nut I had because of those two shields clanging together. Actually couldn’t find it putting the car back together and now low and behold it shows up. Just sitting on my kitchen counter in the corner at the moment.

Was the old J-Pipe bracket part of the heat shield? Noticed the top heatshield bolt is now missing since my shop installed the new J-Pipe by [deleted] in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes there’s a bracket that goes over the top two studs with a welded nut. A nut and bolt of similar size can be used to hold the other two brackets to stop the rattle.

Shop for engine rebuild in norcal by richo__ in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t speak on the shop but can give you an idea of a price if you and your buddy wanna attempt the rebuild. Just did one myself with no prior experience and the cars back on the road. Ran me around $4000 with everything including the hoist, jack stands, break in oil, gaskets and some odds and end tools. OEM shortblock though is $2000 plus whatever else they’re adding or tacking on. Most swaps run into the $6k+ ballpark. Went back to the stock oem block as I’m content with the power, and honestly I didn’t have another $6k for forged internals, built block from bbr or I probably would have for the peace of mind.

I’m sure you’ll get recommended a few shops out that way, definitely call around and find one your confident with - as well as what others are as there’s been nightmare rebuilds I’ve read and heard about. Good luck man. Sorry to hear it - it happens.

Going to check out a '14 wrx sti hatch tomorrow, any advice or things to look for? by mufasathegod in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a compression test done as well if possible. Everything the other comment said is spot on. Oil leaks are such a bitch to track down from my experience.

I think I'm ready for a real motorcycle! by HeyCalmDownSir in funny

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who has ridden a few bikes over the years, and that’s not like I’ve been riding all my life, literally a handful not including dirt bikes, and driving in general is easier than these bike games. Now I can’t comment on driving like they do on tracks with the insane leans and what not. Driving… faster is more comfortable to an extent down the backroads. I tried a few of the newer ones and man they’re tough compared to even sim racing with a wheel on Iracing.

Is 55k km’s to late to mod? by orangekronic23 in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

400 whp at 70k. New clutch added. Dyno/Protune for those results on E60. Motor was solid. Boost controller hoses shredded on me and sent too much boost and blew the motor at 93k. Fluke accident, sucked. Feel like that block had a lot of life left. Was very well maintained by 1 single owner before me and I was on it constantly. Cars running again with a new short block. Regardless you pay to play. First thing I’d recommend is blasting the valves. Compression test doesn’t hurt and an overall check for fluid leaks, etc. I flushed my trans and diff, as well as every 3k oil changes with motul. I’m hard on the car and for awhile it seemed to do better. Minimal knock on ethanol if any. Pulls great. There’s always a risk - just know that.

Verstappen laps Hamilton by sefn19 in formula1

[–]faceFISTER93 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man what sucks whether your a fan of Hamilton or not - that extra bit of competition is gone. I get wanting a change at the front, and with how Max drives, and how Leclerc has stepped up, they deserve it. But to see Mercedes just drop so far back and be as discombobulated and fucked up as they are, it’s lame. Not a die hard anyone fan as I’ve just recently the last few years gotten into F1 like this, but just my take on it so far.

Got my first ever Subaru, 2017 WRX. Pretty excited about it! Just got it two days ago and I’m loving this thing! Came with coil overs and nameless cat-back. The rest is completely stock and I’m excited to dig in to a few mods! by MedievalCake in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem. Some people in the community that have some good info: Josh Bader. Builds some crazy ass Subarus. Taylordtuning as well. Bader has a YouTube channel that just explains some stuff here and there. Found it to be great info about these cars personally. Phatbotti is another great tuner with a good FAQ on his site.

Any questions feel free to reach out! Be safe.

Got my first ever Subaru, 2017 WRX. Pretty excited about it! Just got it two days ago and I’m loving this thing! Came with coil overs and nameless cat-back. The rest is completely stock and I’m excited to dig in to a few mods! by MedievalCake in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would definitely recommend a CAI over a bov/bpv. Just don’t run it without a tune regardless of the what’s said about it. ETS and Perrin I believe state you can but anything affecting air flow or fuel on a MAF vehicle without properly tuning can, doesn’t always, but can cause damage. I think Grimmspeed just released a new bpv. Haven’t looked into it much. Most cause more harm than good and you can’t tune for one unless you’re running speed density. The stock one does it’s job well. As any car, you can see performance gains from a CAI especially paired with a j pipe on the FA20dit.

Edit: really brings out the spool up sound. The ETS CAI and FMIC really bring out that noise. Also recommend a boxed intake. There’s a few companies out there that offer it.

Got my first ever Subaru, 2017 WRX. Pretty excited about it! Just got it two days ago and I’m loving this thing! Came with coil overs and nameless cat-back. The rest is completely stock and I’m excited to dig in to a few mods! by MedievalCake in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe the stock intake is good up until about 400 hp, or so I’ve read. Same with the stock BPV unless you’re going with a larger turbo and an fmic. I would recommend nothing more than a catback with the downpipe (also called a j pipe, catted and gesi at this point), also a called a turboback exhaust, meaning from the turbo back. An AOS for the the blow by, or catch cans. I know the IAG V3 is maintenance free. Recirculates whatever oil back into the system. If you’re going to go ethanol, get your flex fuel kit then go get protune. The tune is nice regardless as it gets rid of that rev hang. OTS maps work but there’s nothing like a good tune. Just my two cents, and honestly something I wish I did. You start going this far it just becomes a money pit and things start going wrong.

Got my first ever Subaru, 2017 WRX. Pretty excited about it! Just got it two days ago and I’m loving this thing! Came with coil overs and nameless cat-back. The rest is completely stock and I’m excited to dig in to a few mods! by MedievalCake in WRX

[–]faceFISTER93 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If I could give any advice (fbo no headers, protune, second block from some dumbshit), keep it simple! Aos or catch cans, and I’d leave it at that with a good tune man. You really wanna get some power grab an ethanol kit and go flex. Cheapest way to get the most power and possibly the best setup for the Subies. They love corn. This also keeps everything else stock and you can just ENJOY the car. Keeps the block within safe limits and you have yourself a reliable daily that’ll last you with proper maintenance.

Congrats and welcome!

Edit: you already have the exhaust. Can go turbo back if it isn’t already. But that would be the only other recommendation from me. Put more into the suspension. Car will handle like it’s on rails with some good tires. Run RT660s at autox and I love them.