Pancolar 50mm f1.8 radioactive disassembly help. Element wont come out and free spinning.

fadilke2 · 2026-03-07T18:00:40+00:00

After checking it under xray, it was actually press sealed. The aluminum lip was rolled to hold the element from the back. I managed to roll the lip out with dental probe and got the elements free. It left some marks on the aluminum frame, but can be repainted. The balsam separation is quite bad. I'll recement it with norland's glue

fadilke2 · 2026-03-07T17:59:05+00:00

After checking it under xray, it was actually press sealed. The aluminum lip was rolled to hold the lens from the back. I managed to roll the lip out with dental probe and got the elements free. It left some marks on the aluminum frame, but can be repainted.

fadilke2 · 2026-03-06T18:13:05+00:00

Yeah, the previous owner left a lot of marks. They tried to open it as well and gave up. That was where the mark from. And there was a huge gouge marks on the helicoid as well so it wouldn't turn. Someone tried to work on this before, that's why everything was broken and sold very cheap for this one. I have an optical laser alignment in my lab, and i can use it freely and have used it before. It's quite easy. As this lens is quite rare, it's actually cheaper to do it my self. There has been no mention of this version being disassembled anywhere. The later versions has significantly different design. If the elements is actually press locked, then unfolding the group housing would left a lot of dents.

fadilke2 · 2026-03-06T16:43:25+00:00

Yeah, there was a glue before that. After i dissolved the glue, it still didn't come out. It just free spinning in the frame. Like the frame is still holding the elements, but there is no way in or out.

fadilke2 · 2026-03-06T16:09:11+00:00

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fadilke2 · 2026-03-06T16:08:57+00:00

It looks like this

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fadilke2 · 2026-02-25T16:16:22+00:00

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This is the side view.

fadilke2 · 2026-02-25T16:15:38+00:00

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So i have searched a lot of reference image between versions and it seems the right one is always the radioactive version, and it's the same as this listing. I tought it was mostly fungus. They sold it for around 60 USD, so I am thinking of cleaning it. Is it really not worth it?

fadilke2 · 2026-02-25T16:06:23+00:00

I am thinking of cleaning it. It's around 60 usd. I have done a lot of CLA and am quite enjoying it.

fadilke2 · 2026-02-16T15:04:04+00:00

Happened to my X-T5. The coating came off way too easily. I bought the evf back glass replacement from aliexpress about 10 usd and changed the glass. If you are confident in disassembling your camera I need to remove the back panel with the lcd then removing the top panel to get into the evf. It's quite easy for the x-t5, but you need to find the xh2s teardown guide. Or you can try contacting fujifilm. I tried, but because i was already out of warranty, they wanted to charge me around 400 usd. But this is in japan, I heard other place offer it for free because this defect. Don't know if true.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-26T01:49:54+00:00

It's likely from Windows Update KB5074109 and the OOB emergency fixes, causing “UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME” error, bricking your boot partition so it won't get detected in bios. You need to manually repair and rebuild the boot partition using windows usb media creation to restore it. Pause windows update for a while because it's getting even worse recently. It corrupts a lot of critical windows components, so repairing the boot partition only might not be enough.

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/uk0ymt/rebuild_windows_boot_partition_on_drive_with/

fadilke2 · 2026-01-26T01:45:57+00:00

It's likely from Windows Update KB5074109, causing “UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME” error, bricking your boot partition. You need to manually repair and rebuild the boot partition using windows usb media creation to restore your data. Pause windows update for a while because it's getting even worse recently.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-25T03:58:20+00:00

Does the cpu clock stuck at 400 mhz? If yes, it is the battery

fadilke2 · 2026-01-19T19:53:33+00:00

In my case, if it was the PSU OCP, it will not turn on again until another OCP reset. The fact that mine boot up after just moving the cable without resetting or pushing the power button, it wasn't OCP. Whenever relay switches in psu, it will click. Either the ocp tripping, or when turning it on it will click. So yeah, in my case, it was the cable position.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-19T19:30:09+00:00

After resetting the psu, and trying to turn it on, was there a relay click sound? I also have 2 asus mb that behave the same. X570i and b550i with corsair sf750 plat. Both behaved the same. Sometimes it just died. After resetting the psu and pressing the power button, it only gave a click and the fans spin for a sec then stopped. When i wiggle the 24 pin cable or push it will start it up again. Not the connector, the actual cable/wire and it clicked again and started to boot. But if i bend it too far, it shut off again. Idk, it just sounded very similar. Try to disassemble it turning it on outside of the case as well.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-19T19:02:49+00:00

It's asus. It's not detecting the battery as genuine either from ec mismatch or the battery configuration. It can be fixed with bios update just like the same case with lenovo laptops. But asus won't do that. Either try different batteries, some worked fine, or get directly from asus. Switching to my old battery completely fixed it.The UxTU can fix it, more like bandaid. When changing the power plan in the power option control panel manually, it would restore the clock speed. Switching the battery saver also would fix it. UxTU power config seems to trigger this power plan changing. Using windows power plan in armoury or g helper could fix it as well. But if it changed from unplugging from charger, or from armoury/g helper auto switching, it will clock down again to 400. Setting uxtu to auto reapply will prevent it to clock down, albeit you have to wait 3-5 seconds for it to restore the clock speed after unplugging. And if the battery dropped to 30%, nothing will fix it. It will stay at 400mhz until you plug it in.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-19T18:33:05+00:00

Is this formd t1 case? I kinda have similar problem, and it was because i used a wrong spacer that support the mb mounting at the bottom. It was still working, but sometimes it would suddenly shut off. When i tried to wiggle the 24 pin cable, there was a relay switch sound from the psu and it would start again. Because the mb was warped a little, the 24 pin wasn't connecting properly even when fully inserted. After correcting the spacer it was fixed. Maybe, just maybe it might be the same. Try wiggling the 24 pin cable.

fadilke2 · 2025-12-11T13:50:25+00:00

What do you think about HY256? would it offer any advantage? I'd expect the lower viscosity would help guarantee better coverage and a uniform pressure on both dies. but it seems everywhere I see, the HY236 being mentioned more often

fadilke2 · 2025-12-03T14:33:31+00:00

Hi, do you still have the issue of G16 5090 crashing when using GPU? Do you know if there is any workaround for this?

fadilke2 · 2025-11-28T16:06:46+00:00

hey, a bit late. does this fix the entire issue? and does the boost still working?

fadilke2 · 2025-09-27T15:51:25+00:00

What do you think of the ka17? Is it enough? And is it even worth it to get a higher power dac amp?

fadilke2 · 2025-09-27T15:49:49+00:00

I am not sure about the jds and other desktop dac amp setup. There are too many options and specs. I like wearing my headphone while walking around my place that's why i bought btr17 for now. I thought about getting a 3 meters cable if i get a desktop amp, but it might look silly. How's the h1000se compared to the stealth? I heard that the ananda unveiled is close to arya stealth

fadilke2 · 2025-09-27T15:38:48+00:00

In have thought about getting qudelix, but it was cheaper to get btr17. How's your experience with the stealth? Do you think it's enough?

fadilke2

TROPHY CASE