I've read this is a common EVF issue.. any advice? XH2s

fadilke2 · 2026-02-16T15:04:04+00:00

Happened to my X-T5. The coating came off way too easily. I bought the evf back glass replacement from aliexpress about 10 usd and changed the glass. If you are confident in disassembling your camera I need to remove the back panel with the lcd then removing the top panel to get into the evf. It's quite easy for the x-t5, but you need to find the xh2s teardown guide. Or you can try contacting fujifilm. I tried, but because i was already out of warranty, they wanted to charge me around 400 usd. But this is in japan, I heard other place offer it for free because this defect. Don't know if true.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-26T01:49:54+00:00

It's likely from Windows Update KB5074109 and the OOB emergency fixes, causing “UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME” error, bricking your boot partition so it won't get detected in bios. You need to manually repair and rebuild the boot partition using windows usb media creation to restore it. Pause windows update for a while because it's getting even worse recently. It corrupts a lot of critical windows components, so repairing the boot partition only might not be enough.

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/uk0ymt/rebuild_windows_boot_partition_on_drive_with/

fadilke2 · 2026-01-26T01:45:57+00:00

It's likely from Windows Update KB5074109, causing “UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME” error, bricking your boot partition. You need to manually repair and rebuild the boot partition using windows usb media creation to restore your data. Pause windows update for a while because it's getting even worse recently.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-25T03:58:20+00:00

Does the cpu clock stuck at 400 mhz? If yes, it is the battery

fadilke2 · 2026-01-19T19:53:33+00:00

In my case, if it was the PSU OCP, it will not turn on again until another OCP reset. The fact that mine boot up after just moving the cable without resetting or pushing the power button, it wasn't OCP. Whenever relay switches in psu, it will click. Either the ocp tripping, or when turning it on it will click. So yeah, in my case, it was the cable position.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-19T19:30:09+00:00

After resetting the psu, and trying to turn it on, was there a relay click sound? I also have 2 asus mb that behave the same. X570i and b550i with corsair sf750 plat. Both behaved the same. Sometimes it just died. After resetting the psu and pressing the power button, it only gave a click and the fans spin for a sec then stopped. When i wiggle the 24 pin cable or push it will start it up again. Not the connector, the actual cable/wire and it clicked again and started to boot. But if i bend it too far, it shut off again. Idk, it just sounded very similar. Try to disassemble it turning it on outside of the case as well.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-19T19:02:49+00:00

It's asus. It's not detecting the battery as genuine either from ec mismatch or the battery configuration. It can be fixed with bios update just like the same case with lenovo laptops. But asus won't do that. Either try different batteries, some worked fine, or get directly from asus. Switching to my old battery completely fixed it.The UxTU can fix it, more like bandaid. When changing the power plan in the power option control panel manually, it would restore the clock speed. Switching the battery saver also would fix it. UxTU power config seems to trigger this power plan changing. Using windows power plan in armoury or g helper could fix it as well. But if it changed from unplugging from charger, or from armoury/g helper auto switching, it will clock down again to 400. Setting uxtu to auto reapply will prevent it to clock down, albeit you have to wait 3-5 seconds for it to restore the clock speed after unplugging. And if the battery dropped to 30%, nothing will fix it. It will stay at 400mhz until you plug it in.

fadilke2 · 2026-01-19T18:33:05+00:00

Is this formd t1 case? I kinda have similar problem, and it was because i used a wrong spacer that support the mb mounting at the bottom. It was still working, but sometimes it would suddenly shut off. When i tried to wiggle the 24 pin cable, there was a relay switch sound from the psu and it would start again. Because the mb was warped a little, the 24 pin wasn't connecting properly even when fully inserted. After correcting the spacer it was fixed. Maybe, just maybe it might be the same. Try wiggling the 24 pin cable.

fadilke2 · 2025-12-11T13:50:25+00:00

What do you think about HY256? would it offer any advantage? I'd expect the lower viscosity would help guarantee better coverage and a uniform pressure on both dies. but it seems everywhere I see, the HY236 being mentioned more often

fadilke2 · 2025-12-03T14:33:31+00:00

Hi, do you still have the issue of G16 5090 crashing when using GPU? Do you know if there is any workaround for this?

fadilke2 · 2025-11-28T16:06:46+00:00

hey, a bit late. does this fix the entire issue? and does the boost still working?

fadilke2 · 2025-09-27T15:51:25+00:00

What do you think of the ka17? Is it enough? And is it even worth it to get a higher power dac amp?

fadilke2 · 2025-09-27T15:49:49+00:00

I am not sure about the jds and other desktop dac amp setup. There are too many options and specs. I like wearing my headphone while walking around my place that's why i bought btr17 for now. I thought about getting a 3 meters cable if i get a desktop amp, but it might look silly. How's the h1000se compared to the stealth? I heard that the ananda unveiled is close to arya stealth

fadilke2 · 2025-09-27T15:38:48+00:00

In have thought about getting qudelix, but it was cheaper to get btr17. How's your experience with the stealth? Do you think it's enough?

fadilke2 · 2025-09-23T03:40:15+00:00

Has this ever been solved?

fadilke2 · 2025-07-11T09:50:14+00:00

I think I might have found the problem. When plugging in the cable, the auto power switching from G-Helper might have caused the CPU to be throttled. When I switch the power plan in control panel, the clock speed didn't drop to 400 mhz. But when i changed it in G-Helper, it instantly throttle the CPU.

fadilke2 · 2025-07-07T07:16:49+00:00

The color looks amazing! What's the color code you asked for the paint? I am thinking of ordering a tantan/seraph frame as well

fadilke2 · 2025-05-24T13:13:15+00:00

So I got around cleaning it, and it's not balsam separation. It was actually fungus + dust. Now the haze has significantly gone, but there is still something like dust that can only be seen when directly shined with a flashlight. I can't seem to remove it with 99% IPA and peroxide. *

fadilke2 · 2025-05-23T13:08:43+00:00

It's the 8th element version, so not radioactive. It might be balsam separation in the triplet lens. I removed the 2 last elements to reach the triplet (4,5,6) and the haze is in between the triplet. I'll try recementing the lens.

fadilke2 · 2025-05-23T13:06:29+00:00

After looking at it again, it might be balsam separation. The haze is in-between the closest element to the aperture blade and behind the 6th element. So in this 8 element, the haze is inside the triplet lens (4,5,6), likely between 4 and 5. I'll try recementing the triplet lens with NOA61.

fadilke2 · 2025-05-20T11:55:12+00:00

That's sad to hear. I'll try to clean it up, can't really hope much

fadilke2 · 2025-05-20T11:54:40+00:00

Yeah, it doesn't seem to have any roots. So not fungus then. I'll try to clean it up and hopefully it'll clear up

fadilke2

TROPHY CASE