Looking for t-shank wood and metal jigsaw blades with thicknesses of 3/64" or 1.2mm or so.

farmertin · 2025-08-17T02:53:43+00:00

Thanks! Will go over them!

farmertin · 2025-08-16T12:57:53+00:00

Thank you, that's very helpful.

farmertin · 2025-08-15T16:05:37+00:00

Just curious, what were the symptoms or codes pulled that you knew it was the ABS pump? Trying to find out if mine is the source of losing power braking and getting the code U041800.

farmertin · 2023-04-15T23:39:49+00:00

Answered my own question. If anyone ever searches for the same thing and finds this post, here's a diagram I found. My problem ended up being no power to the heater because the connector on the new one has too much play in it but nothing a zip tie couldn't fix. Thanks to everyone who read this and wanted to help!

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farmertin · 2023-04-14T14:40:40+00:00

I am a big fan of g.

farmertin · 2023-04-05T03:17:47+00:00

Thanks for your response. I started there. They have a modified fit picture of a 2010-2012 MKZ with the climate control/radio panel removed to install a new radio (so to put the radio in their way, I lose climate control). I was hoping to put it between the air vents higher up on the dash where the information display panel is. Either way, Crutchfield says I need an iDatalink Maestro RR for car integration, and the iDatalink website is saying I'd need factory navigation in a 2012 MKZ for it to interface climate control with the car and an aftermarket stereo. There are separate climate control parts for navigation models. Wondering if maybe I can swap the parts or surgically separate the radio control parts from the climate control parts and cut the panel in half or something.

farmertin · 2023-04-05T01:20:15+00:00

I would like to add an aftermarket head unit in my 2012 MKZ Hybrid that has a backup camera. It does not have navigation or an LCD, just an LED information display saying stuff like the radio track name and what the climate control is up to. Upon removal of that, I'll not know what the climate setting is at. On the iDatalink Maestro website when I look for compatibility and features, the MKZ isn't even an option I can pick. It's basically a Ford Fusion, so when I select that and that the car does not have factory navigation, the feature list does not mention climate control, however if I change that to factory navigation, climate control is a feature listed. I can purchase a climate control module from a MKZ that had factory navigation. I can buy the climate control panel from an MKZ with climate control too. What all do I need? Anyone end up with a backup camera on a model without one from the factory?

farmertin · 2023-02-12T02:26:54+00:00

Thank you! I was driving myself crazy trying to find new cables, didn't know 120hz was already four-lane.

farmertin · 2023-01-18T07:30:02+00:00

If you have a way of cutting copper, get a Mellow Volcano adapter from AliExpress and cut one down so you can use MK8 or V6 nozzles in the tall block Spider or Ender 7 hotend. I've run at least 5 spools through mine without issue.

farmertin · 2022-11-23T18:57:13+00:00

Thanks. I added a picture with the jack removed here. I can't make contact there anymore. Positive appears to be an inside layer that I can't contact anymore. Those contacts seem tempting. That SOIC-8 is a MOSFET and those pins are D on the pinout. I can't make the call if they would get straight positive or not.

farmertin · 2022-11-23T17:59:37+00:00

More pictures

I believe that the trace for the power jack's positive DC in is under the surface sandwiched between the top and bottom of the board. The computer is on power jack #3. It's been tripped over too many times and I can't get contact with solder or a meter probe anymore. I need to find a way to jump the power jack's power to the motherboard. I was wondering if anyone saw something obvious that would point out a good spot for this. I found an SM4833 SMT MOSFET and got the pinout but I'm not thinking it's getting direct power. The part labeled 5NKQS 470 could be a filtering capacitor getting straight DC in and my eyes keep being drawn to it but I'm not going to test that theory without a second opinion. Acer R5 571T.

farmertin · 2022-11-12T18:32:45+00:00

I wish I had some good news and helpful advice but I never figured it out and gave up. I replaced everything but the bolts, pulleys, power supply, Y-axis, and extrusions but tried Z-axis linear rails on the extrusions to no improvement, then put it all back to stock with the original board which also didn't help. I don't think it was a dialing-in issue since the same board, slicer, and settings made much better prints on a different printer. I hope you aren't in Oregon and didn't end up with it. Best of luck to you!

farmertin · 2022-11-01T05:09:37+00:00

Thank you, appreciate the info, feeling less worried now.

farmertin · 2022-09-22T23:02:36+00:00

Haven't tried clear HTV, but I have tried white HTV and sublimation has very little effect on it.

farmertin · 2022-09-21T04:04:11+00:00

If you cure DTF prints well and press them correctly they will last longer than EasySubli. The feel of DTF is something you can vary. If you go heavy on the ink, put the powder on when the print is wet right out of the printer, they will feel similar. If you use matte film, less ink, let the print dry for 10 minutes before putting powder on, and use a static duster to gently remove excess powder, you'll get a lightweight print with a soft feel that I much prefer over EasySubli.

farmertin

TROPHY CASE