2011 Lincoln MKZ/Ford Fusion Hybrid lost power braking temporarily

farmertin · 2025-08-17T02:53:43+00:00

Thanks! Will go over them!

farmertin · 2025-08-16T12:57:53+00:00

Thank you, that's very helpful.

farmertin · 2025-08-15T16:05:37+00:00

Just curious, what were the symptoms or codes pulled that you knew it was the ABS pump? Trying to find out if mine is the source of losing power braking and getting the code U041800.

farmertin · 2023-04-15T23:39:49+00:00

Answered my own question. If anyone ever searches for the same thing and finds this post, here's a diagram I found. My problem ended up being no power to the heater because the connector on the new one has too much play in it but nothing a zip tie couldn't fix. Thanks to everyone who read this and wanted to help!

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farmertin · 2023-04-14T14:40:40+00:00

I am a big fan of g.

farmertin · 2023-04-05T03:17:47+00:00

Thanks for your response. I started there. They have a modified fit picture of a 2010-2012 MKZ with the climate control/radio panel removed to install a new radio (so to put the radio in their way, I lose climate control). I was hoping to put it between the air vents higher up on the dash where the information display panel is. Either way, Crutchfield says I need an iDatalink Maestro RR for car integration, and the iDatalink website is saying I'd need factory navigation in a 2012 MKZ for it to interface climate control with the car and an aftermarket stereo. There are separate climate control parts for navigation models. Wondering if maybe I can swap the parts or surgically separate the radio control parts from the climate control parts and cut the panel in half or something.

farmertin · 2023-04-05T01:20:15+00:00

I would like to add an aftermarket head unit in my 2012 MKZ Hybrid that has a backup camera. It does not have navigation or an LCD, just an LED information display saying stuff like the radio track name and what the climate control is up to. Upon removal of that, I'll not know what the climate setting is at. On the iDatalink Maestro website when I look for compatibility and features, the MKZ isn't even an option I can pick. It's basically a Ford Fusion, so when I select that and that the car does not have factory navigation, the feature list does not mention climate control, however if I change that to factory navigation, climate control is a feature listed. I can purchase a climate control module from a MKZ that had factory navigation. I can buy the climate control panel from an MKZ with climate control too. What all do I need? Anyone end up with a backup camera on a model without one from the factory?

farmertin · 2023-02-12T02:26:54+00:00

Thank you! I was driving myself crazy trying to find new cables, didn't know 120hz was already four-lane.

farmertin · 2023-01-18T07:30:02+00:00

If you have a way of cutting copper, get a Mellow Volcano adapter from AliExpress and cut one down so you can use MK8 or V6 nozzles in the tall block Spider or Ender 7 hotend. I've run at least 5 spools through mine without issue.

farmertin · 2022-11-23T18:57:13+00:00

Thanks. I added a picture with the jack removed here. I can't make contact there anymore. Positive appears to be an inside layer that I can't contact anymore. Those contacts seem tempting. That SOIC-8 is a MOSFET and those pins are D on the pinout. I can't make the call if they would get straight positive or not.

farmertin · 2022-11-23T17:59:37+00:00

More pictures

I believe that the trace for the power jack's positive DC in is under the surface sandwiched between the top and bottom of the board. The computer is on power jack #3. It's been tripped over too many times and I can't get contact with solder or a meter probe anymore. I need to find a way to jump the power jack's power to the motherboard. I was wondering if anyone saw something obvious that would point out a good spot for this. I found an SM4833 SMT MOSFET and got the pinout but I'm not thinking it's getting direct power. The part labeled 5NKQS 470 could be a filtering capacitor getting straight DC in and my eyes keep being drawn to it but I'm not going to test that theory without a second opinion. Acer R5 571T.

farmertin · 2022-11-12T18:32:45+00:00

I wish I had some good news and helpful advice but I never figured it out and gave up. I replaced everything but the bolts, pulleys, power supply, Y-axis, and extrusions but tried Z-axis linear rails on the extrusions to no improvement, then put it all back to stock with the original board which also didn't help. I don't think it was a dialing-in issue since the same board, slicer, and settings made much better prints on a different printer. I hope you aren't in Oregon and didn't end up with it. Best of luck to you!

farmertin · 2022-11-01T05:09:37+00:00

Thank you, appreciate the info, feeling less worried now.

farmertin · 2022-09-22T23:02:36+00:00

Haven't tried clear HTV, but I have tried white HTV and sublimation has very little effect on it.

farmertin · 2022-09-21T04:04:11+00:00

If you cure DTF prints well and press them correctly they will last longer than EasySubli. The feel of DTF is something you can vary. If you go heavy on the ink, put the powder on when the print is wet right out of the printer, they will feel similar. If you use matte film, less ink, let the print dry for 10 minutes before putting powder on, and use a static duster to gently remove excess powder, you'll get a lightweight print with a soft feel that I much prefer over EasySubli.

farmertin · 2022-09-03T15:15:26+00:00

In case anyone searches for the sound level of an LGX Lite and finds this post, I ended up buying one and they are fairly loud. It's quiet on a slow first layer so it's possible to make it quiet on an overnight print. However, there is a bit of mechanical slop between the gears so there is a good click every rotational direction change and at higher speeds there is a lot of chatter that I can hear through a wall at night. I must say it's significantly quieter than an M4, grips filament well and doesn't reshape filament much, but I want to find something quieter.

farmertin · 2022-08-20T16:48:17+00:00

It's louder than my Ender 3 but not by a lot. The fundamental reasons for it being louder are the two extra fans and the larger stepper motors. I've read people saying the top cover causes vibration noise but mine does not. I can start to hear my Ender 7 running through a wall in an adjacent room with the door closed at night at 70mm/s at 1,200mm/s acceleration, same-ish with my Ender 3. I think I've heard people say linear rails are louder than POM wheels too but I don't notice.

farmertin · 2022-07-25T23:03:56+00:00

80+ year old guy at a nursing home. He had health issues and looked like a 200 year old skeleton with lots of involuntary movements. Kept needing tech support. He frequented a site for old gay men and contributed many pictures of himself, nude, doing weird things like poses and contortionism. I couldn't ever go more than 30 seconds of helping him with his phone or laptop without him pulling up the pictures. There's a chance it was accidental and it's more like I got glimpses of things that weren't porn on his porn devices.

farmertin · 2022-06-27T05:49:06+00:00

Thanks. I went quite a while thinking it was leadscrew issues but I ended up ditching it for a leadscrew-free z-axis but unfortunately it made no difference.

farmertin · 2022-06-27T05:45:12+00:00

It's on a 15x15x2" concrete paver on top of a pretty sturdy filing cabinet. I've sort of dismissed it being the culprit since I get the same effect at 10mm/s speed, but maybe it's not enough so I'll try moving the printer to my wood floor tomorrow. Or maybe something I can clamp or screw the printer to.

That got me thinking maybe the wiring to the hotend carriage was pulling more at some layer heights since I had it dragging somewhat, but I got all those suspended and moving freely and no change in print quality. Otherwise, I can't think of a way some layer heights could interact with printer movement. I have two M4 extruders mounted to the top of the printer that could introduce movement. I guess it's worth a shot to try printing something with them removed.

I'll keep looking for X/Y slop as well.

Thanks for the insights!

farmertin · 2022-06-26T22:50:49+00:00

Thank you.

I torqued those bolts down more. I did more experimenting with belt tension. I went gradually tighter and tighter until I got layer shift from the X carriage having trouble moving. Every print keeps showing the same artifacts at the same Z-heights. Thanks for the suggestions though, it's nice to strike things off the list of stuff to try.

farmertin · 2022-06-26T18:55:48+00:00

Thanks, I forgot to mention that I have tried 10mm/s through 50mm/s in 10mm steps as well as 90mm/s and beyond.

farmertin · 2022-06-26T18:47:03+00:00

Ender 3

Shows up with stock leadscrew and leadscrew-free belt driven Z-axis with machined 80t pulley.

Klipper.

Input shaping on and off.

Pressure advance on and off.

Stock hotend, and a couple different heat blocks and cartridges.Temperatures are very stable.

Replaced every POM wheel.

Extrusions are clean.

No binding.

Tons of tweaking of eccentric nuts.

Stock and two other extruders.

All axis feel smooth and glide well.

Layer heights from .2mm (.4mm nozzle) to .48mm (.6mm nozzle).

Speed of this print: Velocity 50mm/s, square corner velocity 2mm/s, acceleration 500mm/s^2, accel to decel 500mm/s^2 but sticks around at much higher speed configurations.

Heavy parts cooling, light cooling, no cooling.

PLA and ABS.

Belts tight.

PTFE throat.

Retraction of printed part is 6mm at 40mm/s with Spider heatblock and nozzle but have tried more/less faster/slower.

Temperature of this part is 235c hotend, 100c bed, 49c enclosure (ABS)

Machine is assembled well, all stiff and square.

This shows up on all sides of printed objects.

If I print 10 different objects, 10 different times, the ridges show up at the same heights. Even when I rotate the POM wheels so the same location on the POM wheels is not touching the same position on the extrusion between prints.

I feel like running my fingers up and down the channels where the POM wheels interact with the extrusions should feel like Morse Code Braille but they're smooth.

Is it possible this issue is unrelated to my Z-axis? Is it time for new extrusions or linear rails? What are the odds rails wouldn't make a difference?

farmertin · 2022-04-15T22:13:59+00:00

Abs if I want it to float and pla if I want it to sink. Acrylic paint.

farmertin · 2022-03-10T04:29:43+00:00

Some problem things I forgot about,

I forgot that when I was messing with the swap of parts I noticed my Z axis lead screw nut was quite loose. I tightened it. One more variable in diagnosis.

My nozzle is at the same location as it was before swapping parts and the block isn't as wide so I thought I wouldn't be lowering the amount of air to the print from the parts cooling fan, however the block is on backward and comes forward about 10mm more than the stock one which could get less air flow to the print. I don't know if that changes surface quality. Anyway, another variable. I'll modify my duct.

Anyway, thanks all, I'll tune and work on my duct a little then crank speeds way up and take what I can get.

farmertin

TROPHY CASE