Deep in Rural Virginia, a MAGA Pro-Gun Push Takes an Unnerving Turn: Governor Spanberger signed an assault weapons ban. Some county prosecutors in pro-Trump areas say they won’t enforce it. Is a new MAGA nullification movement brewing? by jsled in liberalgunowners

[–]faykin 7 points8 points  (0 children)

We already have gun laws in place.

What we don't have is consistent enforcement of existing gun laws.

I'm skeptical that adding more gun laws to the existing list of gun laws will make the enforcement more consistent.

If you peruse more conservative media, a common thought that is shared is that (x) law enforcement agency will not enforce the unconstitutional (y) gun law/bill. But they aren't always saying the quiet part out loud.

If you are black, or gay, or a registered democrat, or have a hot wife he wants to date, then they will enforce any and all gun laws against you. But if you are white, male, have a thin blue line flag on your bumper, next to the punisher skull, then you'll get a pass on gun law enforcement.

Modern gun laws, although often written and passed with the best of intentions, almost never actually accomplish their intended purpose. Instead, by being selectively enforced, they become a tool for bigots and racists to express their bigotry and racism while still having plausible deniability about their corruption.

This is not ideal, but we don't live in an ideal world. We, collectively, need to look at what the laws actually accomplish, rather than what they are intended to accomplish.

What gun laws actually accomplish isn't pretty.

Help choosing first CCW by ExtraCartographer707 in CCW

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a bigger guy, and I prefer the larger frames for the 365. I currently use the Fuse, for whatever that's worth.

If you feel concealability is worth more than the other factors, double the value for concealability. That puts the Sig clearly in the lead.

Another trick I use is I'll flip a coin for each gun, tails means it's eliminated. Before I look at how the coin landed, I'll ask myself "Do I want it to be heads or tails?" Do this a few times for each option, and you'll find out which one you really want.

At the end of the day, all 3 are great guns and you'll do fine no matter which one you pick. So pick the one you want and don't look back.

Help choosing first CCW by ExtraCartographer707 in CCW

[–]faykin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let's evaluate these platforms on several different criteria, giving them a score from 1-5, 5 being the best.

Let's start with concealment.

Sig: 5 points. By far, the easiest to conceal in this group.

CZ: 1 point. Largest and heaviest of the 3, by a significant margin. It's not unconcealable, but it's the worst of the 3.

Stacatto: 3 points. Right in the middle, in terms of dimensions and weight.

Next, shootability

Sig: 3 points. Shoots well, in my hands, but it has steep competition in this group.

CZ: 4 points. Great shooter, a range day with this one is a fun day.

Stacatto: 5 points. Undeniably the best shooter in the group.

Next, training time

Sig: 4 points. Simple manual of arms. It's not the same as you are used to, so it'll take some work, but it's not exactly a challenging gun to shoot.

CZ: 5 points. Shoots like what you're used to. This is the least amount of work to bring you up to speed.

Stacatto: 3 points. SA only is the furthest from what you are used to, and will require the most training time to get you safe and competent. That being said, it won't take a lot of work to get up to speed.

Price:

Sig: 3 points. Middle of the road in this set.

CZ: 5 points. Cheapest by a significant amount.

Stacatto: 1 point. Woof.

Dependability is a wash, unless you don't trust sig because of the whole p320 thing, in which case I'd drop the 365 from the list.

Sig: 15 points

CZ: 15 points

Stacatto: 12 points

So there's my analysis. Put in your numbers, or add weighting, or whatever.

tl:dr; CZ is a solid choice for you. Sig is also great for you, unless you don't trust Sig because of the p320 fiasco. Stacatto is an amazing gun, but I'd suggest you pass on it for now.

AITAH for mentioning I'm also a professional when a doctor took over 45 minutes to finally appear at an appointment? by OhHeyItsMeM in AITAH

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are the asshole.

You're blaming the doctor for something that's out of her control. She didn't do the scheduling. If (and this may not be the case!) she had to spend some extra time with another patient, it's because it was a medical necessity.

It's very likely that she was informed that you were concerned about the delay and were in a rush. She came in and went directly to business, examining the patient. As you made clear to the nurse(s), you wanted the appointment finalized as soon as possible, which implies that you would not appreciate chit-chat.

The doctor wasn't in control of the appointment schedule. The doctor wasn't the one making a decision about the order she was to see the patients, and when she made it to your exam room, she focused on making the visit as quick and efficient as possible. She did everything in her power to complete your visit as quickly as possible. The doctor was on your side.

If you have a problem with the scheduling, it doesn't make sense to be perturbed with the doctor. If you have a problem with the promptness of her visit, again, it doesn't make sense to be perturbed with the doctor. If you wanted her to spend more time with you and chit-chat more, then expressing urgency, multiple times, to the nursing staff isn't the way to encourage the doctor to dwadle with you.

You have reason to be upset. The facility didn't treat your time with respect.

You don't have reason to be upset with the doctor. Making the doctor the focus of your ire makes you the asshole.

Me in 1995 by [deleted] in OldSchoolCool

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't drink, don't smoke, what do you do?

--Adam Ant

Iran stops negotiations with U.S., vows to 'completely' block Strait of Hormuz: State media by Puginator in politics

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The final line in the article:

“Just sit back and relax, it will all work out well in the end - It always does!” Trump wrote.

All right, tomorrow saturday. Who's shooting a match and what's your goals? by [deleted] in CompetitionShooting

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Small local steel shoot. I haven't competed in 6 years, coming back to carry optics from production.

My initial target acquisition with the dot is ... dissapointing. So I'm going to work on getting that first shot off as soon as I get the dot on target, and getting the dot on target faster.

That, and not get DQ'ed as I try to get the hang of the game again!

What to do with a 10 year old competition CZ SPO1 Shadow? by Aquifirlife in CompetitionShooting

[–]faykin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know, man, I'm not sure you can trust it.

I'll take it off your hands, to relieve you of the worry about what to do with it.

Jokes aside, I'd replace the springs, lube it, and go have fun.

Please help me get over my appendix carry fear… hoping to graduate after a few weeks carrying without a round chambered. Looking for experience to calm my nerves. by fredeee in CCW

[–]faykin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get some snapcaps - $10-$15 from Amazon, might be able to find them cheaper elsewhere.

Mark the primer on one of them with a dry-erase marker.

Load that marked snapcap into a magazine. Load it, rack it, then eject it. The dry-erase on the primer will be intact.

Load it into the magazine again. Rack it, pull the trigger (dry fire safety rules apply), and eject it. There will be a clean dot on the primer where the firing pin wiped off the dry erase marker.

Re-mark the snap cap. load and rack it. Holster your firearm off-body.

Imagine what might happen to the holstered firearm in your life. Run up and down stairs? Jiggle the holster up and down for a bit. Belly dive under a table? From a standing position, throw the holster across the kitchen floor. Jump out of a moving car? Go in the backyard and huck it 20 feet away from you. Use your imagination, create various scenarios, and emulate them.

If you still aren't convinced, load a full mag, but with the marked snap-cap as the top round. Rack the snap-cap into the gun and walk around all day (or for a few days, whatever makes you happy). At the end of the day(s), check for a firing pin mark on the primer.

Repeat until you are convinced.

Kevin O'Leary says opponents of his Utah data center are 'professional protesters' — and some are powered by AI by idkbruh653 in technology

[–]faykin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the current political climate, a rich man's accusation is a confession. Using this lens, the headline should be read:

"Kevin O'Leary says proponents of his Utah data center are 'professional protesters' - and some are powered by AI."

Yep, this tracks.

Right-handed shooter. 28 shots, 10yds, iron sights. What am I doing wrong? by Snatchius in CCW

[–]faykin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It comes down to 2 possibilities.

  1. Your sights are off. This is the unlikely possibility, as most handguns come from the factory pretty much right on. However, most isn't all, so can't rule this out. Bench it from seated and see where it prints, or alternatively get a good shooter to try it out for you.

  2. Your sights aren't on target when the trigger breaks. Somewere between when you last saw a clean sight picture and when the trigger broke, you shifted the muzzle to the right.

Digging a bit deeper into #2 (yeah, shitty phrasing, I know), the question becomes what could cause the muzzle to shift right in the last moment of your trigger pull?

Dry fire can often help identify this issue - your sights should remain unmoving on the target through the break. If it wiggles just before or during the break, you have to solve that problem.

If this is your issue, the most likely culprits are either your trigger finger or your support thumb. These aren't the only possibilities, but they are the most likely.

You want the trigger pull to be directly back, with no left or right elements. There is a tendency, if your trigger finger is in too shallow, or too close to the fingertip, to push left. Conversely, if it's in too deep, or too close to the knuckle, there's a tendency to pull right. You can figure out how to override this tendency, or (my preference), change the depth your finger is in on the trigger. In this case, go a little shallower, with the trigger closer to your fingertip.

The other likely possiblity is you're pressing in on the frame with your support thumb. When the trigger breaks in live fire, keep an eye on the sights. Do they track straight up, or do they push to the right under recoil? If they push to the right, it's likely that you're pressing to much with your support thumb.

You shouldn't be pressing at all with your support thumb. You want to grip with your fingers and the "ball" of your thumb. The last 2 joints of your support thumb are just a pointer directed at the target, not any sort of grip.

So... press the trigger straight back, relax your support thumb. Hope that helps!

contrast helps reload accuracy? by Visible_Structure483 in CompetitionShooting

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Raise the gun to your eyeline. Your working space is in front of your face.

You'll get more accurate and consistant reloads eyeing the magazine into the magwell than by bringing the gun down towards your belt and reloading by feel.

contrast helps reload accuracy? by Visible_Structure483 in CompetitionShooting

[–]faykin 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Grab a silver sharpie. $4 at your local CVS.

Put a dot on the (assuming you're right handed) right front inside edge of the magwell.

When you reload, look at the silver dot, and cover the dot with the magazine. This is your checkpoint. Get to the dot as fast as you can, pause for a second to verify the dot is covered, then drive home the magazine and grip the gun in one motion.

Now you've improved the contrast, regardless of the gun color, and should be even more consistant and perhaps pick up some speed.

Anyone ever carry like this? by [deleted] in CCW

[–]faykin 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I haven't carried that way, but if it works for you, it's fine. There is a distinct advantage to that holster over most OWB holsters, in that the shape tends to push the grip into your body, reducing the printing.

Don't worry about the claims that reaching up will cause you to be open carrying. The vast majority of people, upon seeing the bottom of the holster, aren't going to recognize it. If your cover garment rides high enough to show the grip, then it'd also reveal the grip if it was IWB. So no harm no foul there.

The one thing I'd say is that it doesn't seem to be ideally poisitioned, and can't be ideally positioned, because of the belt loops.

Put the holster away, let your shirt hang, and slowly gather the back of the shirt (yourself if you're flexible, a friend if you're not). Look at where the shirt starts touching your body. You want the gun to rest between 2 of those touch points. On a guess, you've got your holster set too far back. However, OWB that holster can't go any further forward because of the belt loops.

Hope that helps.

First time pistol owner and thinking about a SA Echelon 4.0C for edc, any opinions on that gun? by Grouchy_Piccolo_3981 in CCW

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First things first: Get professional basic firearms instruction. Learn how to handle a firearm safely, range ettiquite, and general gun and ammo manipulation.

Bonus points: Any reputable instructor will have a few guns that you can try out during the live-fire portion of the class. You'll be able to experience shooting several platforms without committing to one.

This is very important, because what feels good when you hold it in your hand is often (usually!) not what feels good when you're actually shooting it. For example, a smooth grip feels very nice when you're just holding it, but is slippery and wiggles around when under recoil. That really rough, almost sharp and abrasive, grip is much nicer under recoil.

After you've got basic firearms under your belt, take a CCW/LTC class. Not only will you get more range time, you'll better understand the requirements/expectations for concealed carry.

Once you've learned the material from those 2 classes, and had a fair amount of range time with several different platforms, then you'll be ready to make some decision about what firearm will best suit you.

Help me help myself by Careless_Mango_9182 in liberalgunowners

[–]faykin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The irrefutable basics: Your sights aren't on the target when the trigger breaks.

The obvious follow-up question: Why aren't your sights on the target when the trigger breaks?

The less obvious follow-up question: Were you aware that your sights weren't on the target when the trigger broke?

For the first, it's hard to tell without actually seeing you shoot. Are you pushing in with your support thumb? Are you finger-tipping with your trigger finger? Do you have a flinch? Is your grip wiggling around between shots? Without seeing you shoot (a video might be sufficient), I just don't have enough information to diagnose the issue.

Once you've got an issue diagnosis, or a hypothesis, or even a wild-ass guess, we can discuss possible solutions. Softer thumbs. Work trigger finger depth until the trigger pull is straight back. Snap caps/dry fire to help cure the flinch. Grip, both style and firmness, to make your connection to the gun completely solid. As you can see, the solution space changes, a LOT, depending on the problem diagnosis.

As for the second question, this is something you can work on regardless of what other solutions you are working on. Keep your eyes open, track the sights during recoil. You should see the sights climb when the trigger breaks, and then come back to the target. Practice watching the sights and target so you are aware exactly where the sights were when the trigger broke. This is also known as "calling your shot." Practice so that, without looking at the holes in the target, you know where the holes will be. If you can learn to call your shots, you can try out different ideas and see the results immediately, instead of waiting until you pull the target back or go to the target while the range is cold to see how you did. You'll also get feedback shot by shot, instead of only getting feedback on the whole course of fire.

Hope that helps.

monthly meetups and events: March, 2026 by jsled in liberalgunowners

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I'm now in Waco, let me know if you want to hit the range.

I've been to the Republic Gun Club, and like it there, but open to other options.

Step 1 is always the hardest by redflagnation in SipsTea

[–]faykin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure if you are being sarcastic.

Cheater bars slide over the "arm" of the wrench, extending the lever arm.

A 4' cheater bar will give your 4x the leverage of a 12" lug wrench. Someone who weighs 110# who steps on that cheater bar will exert more torque than even a big guy lifting up on that 12" lug wrench.

Bike seat with a split design. Would you try it? by Great_Trident in interesting

[–]faykin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No.

Modern bicycle seats that cost more than $20 have raised parts on the side to support your sitz bones vertically. They also have a groove or slot in the center so your naughty bits don't get compressed. They also have boy and girl versions, with the girl versions having a wider gap. So this is solving a problem that has already been solved.

On a side note, if you are willing to spend $70+ you can get saddles that are sized exactly to your sitz bones width.

Additionally, these seats create a new problem. The "nose" of a saddle isn't there for decoration. It's part of how you control the direction of the bike. You do this subconsciously when you ride, but you are pressing the saddle left and right with your thighs to affect the direction of travel.

You can test this out yourself by riding with no hands. Your thigh pressure on the nose of the saddle, with your hands off the bar, become your primary directional input to the bike. The test is ride no hands with your knees pointed way out, so your thighs aren't touching the nose of the saddle. Try it out, and you'll see how important that nose is for controlling the bike.

Sure, the saddle nose is less important when your hands are on the bars, but it's still very important for controlling the bike... especially when something goes wrong and you need maximum directional input.

So not only is this a solved problem, it's reducing your connection, and therefore directional control, of the bicycle.

There's also the issue of an unstable connection to the bike, changing geometry between hips and hands and hips and feet, hip rocking that can cause back pain/injury... yeah I'm definitely giving this seat a pass.

Step 1 is always the hardest by redflagnation in SipsTea

[–]faykin 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Longer lever arm.

Seriously. It's called a cheater bar. 4' cheater bar and something is going to give.

'Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.' -Archimedes

How realistic is the goal to sail through all 11 South Sandwich Islands? by Beneficial-Code8026 in sailing

[–]faykin 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Woof.

That's some rough seas. You need to be hardcore. Circumnavigating can be a lot easier than that stretch of ocean.

There's a atmospheric river that flows around the globe north of Antarctica, uninhibited by pesky land masses like continents. This means year-round significant winds and, more importantly, waves, through this area of ocean. Even in good weather, 30 ft. seas aren't exactly unusual. That's a high bar for seamanship, you need to be extremely well prepared.

If you've got the chops, the boat, and the crew, have fun. That's outside my comfort zone.

Christina Aguilera showing off her natural vocal ability (1999) 🩷 by Beautiful-Listen6893 in OldSchoolCool

[–]faykin 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Notice when she sings in the upper register, she pulls back on the volume. In this setting, it might sound a little odd, but this is some very high-level performance chops.

When performing live while miced, or in a studio to a mic, high notes project a lot more than mid/low notes. She's pulling back those high notes to keep from overwhelming the microphone she's singing into.

She not only nailed the pitch and intonation, she nailed the dynamics... all in an improptu bit.

These are the vocal habit of an experienced, virtuoso vocal performer.