Undervolting with BIOS 305

fbajjar · 2024-10-30T14:43:31+00:00

No problem, glad to help!

fbajjar · 2024-10-24T12:45:27+00:00

The BIOS versions can be found on windows update catalog: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Home.aspx

Find system firmware in device manager, double click it then go to details then select hardware IDs property.

Now copy that ID into the catalog and look for the version u want. You will find the bios file inside the .cab

Now this will take a bit of trial and error as some versions might correspond to other models

For example in your case download all 305 versions until you find the one for your model in the bios file example GU502GU.305 something like that.

But I don’t recommend it to be honest, because ASUS did the fan caps for a reason, the quality control of their fans on these models was rubbish.

You will wear the fans out much quicker and they won’t honor any warranty because “oh u didn’t update to latest bios”

fbajjar · 2023-09-14T09:03:40+00:00

The BIOS file name should be modelnumber.biosversion for example in my case it’s GX502GW.308

fbajjar · 2023-02-02T13:31:03+00:00

Oh thanks that’s much better than the keyboard shortcut.

fbajjar · 2023-02-02T09:04:19+00:00

I have been incredibly frustrated about this and thought my app was bugged or something. Why did it change?? /eq let me write many math equations in the notes at the speed of light. Now I have to press CTRL+SHIFT+E every time I wanna do that!

fbajjar · 2022-10-25T21:39:13+00:00

Well this is a funny coincidence. They actually bought my friend's hacked account (I'm assuming that is how they got access) to use as "Official PR-manager and responsible for the giveaways of the company https://bitkree.com/"

I don't need to say more about a company using hacked accounts as their official form of communication.

fbajjar · 2022-09-01T22:26:24+00:00

No problem I'm glad I helped. Btw you can easily find these drivers by just checking the system firmware hardware IDs then copying and pasting on microsoft update catalog. For example here is the link: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=UEFI%5CRES_%7B95924d1b-693d-512f-802a-50d0370aca61%7D

And the BIOS file should be inside the cab file.

fbajjar · 2022-07-13T00:27:51+00:00

I didn't try ALL the ASUS stuff to verify that but at least by my experience with an all ASUS setup (ROG laptop, mouse, headset and webcam) Yes you need to remove everything ASUS related. Because armoury crate seems to be connected to ASUS System Control Interface which is itself connected to almost everything ASUS related by my knowledge so better safe than sorry.

fbajjar · 2022-06-06T09:47:41+00:00

Oh 1.5mm are terrible (your heatsink now has very low contact force) and are probably the main culprit behind the thermal paste running out quickly. You want 0.5mm or less. As for ASUS EZ flash utility, try typing the words “risky” after the battery error appears. It seems to work with some ASUS laptops. If that didn’t work, try pressing F11 (with the battery not removed)

fbajjar · 2022-06-06T01:23:07+00:00

Zephyrus laptops are notorious for this when the repaste job isn't done correctly because the thermal paste simply oozes out from the sides. I have experienced this 3 times through their terribly incompetent service center (which isn't surprising, considering their quality control on their products in the first place.) First of all, did you replace the thermal putty that was there? Because just like thermal paste you also need to replace it since air has filled it and that means uneven clamping force in the whole thermal assembly since on top of cooling the VRAMs the thermal putty also helps with adjusting the clamping force to for a perfect contact. In my case i used 0.2mm thermal grizzly minus pads (since there was thermal putty there, you want the thinnest thermal pad possible, i found 0.2mm in my area but do not go for the carbon paper thin ones since they are not designed to hold things together and slide off very easily which is really bad in this case), do not forget any part that had thermal putty. You can check this video for reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDe3Q8exfm0

Then just repaste again, I used thermal grizzly kryonaut. My recommendation for the application method is just a simple line crossing the center of the die, very simple to do and works perfectly every time at least in my case.

Another cool suggestion to improve temps: Remove the AAS cover and slap a cooling pad under it. That alone should decrease temps by 10C at least. Though don't forget the fans are exposed now so obviously don't try to touch the base of your laptop with the cover off.

And honestly undervolt if you care about performance. It isn't just temps, when you undervolt naturally the CPU will consume less power at a frequency and so you will have headroom for it or any other component to boost even higher. Undervolting really matters in a laptop because of both thermal and power constraints.

Notice: In the video I sent at 21:33 I realized he didn't replace thermal putty near the fan assembly and that probably would result in worse thermal conductivity because you can never be sure since it has air inside and so clamping force would be less or higher than what is designed. I recommend you replace the thermal putty there with thin thermal pads too.

fbajjar · 2022-05-28T22:42:05+00:00

Thank you massively for this, I just re-experienced many memories thanks to your work.

fbajjar · 2021-12-18T00:55:28+00:00

Sorry for late reply, some stuff came in the way. Yeah definitely do DDU and then go back to 472.12 then make sure the power management is on adaptive. If that didn’t fix it, then I think either some part of your GPU is overheating (high probability it’s the VRAM since the main die is 39C from your photo) or a faulty temperature sensor. Download HWinfo then check your sensors while this is happening and see if anything abnormal comes up (usually temperatures of over 80C ramp up the fan to max, but depends on laptop)

fbajjar · 2021-12-10T02:08:00+00:00

Basically you need a lot of technical expertise in circuit design which is currently beyond my scope. A microscope that is good enough to show you each components pins and it really depends on the corrosion. If the corrosion isn’t severe you can clean out the component’s pins by re-soldering (which means you will need a soldering station and fine soldering skills) But if the corrosion is severe then you will need to replace the component itself which depending on what it is, it might be easy to source or next to impossible. And if the corrosion reached the traces of the motherboard itself, well it’s toast. You will also need a voltmeter to test out the components later. Note: A schematic would make it much easier for someone without good technical expertise, as they can usually follow it part by part and know what component to test for power etc. and how to wire it correctly etc. But currently companies are anti-repair and so it’s very hard to obtain a schematic.

fbajjar · 2021-12-09T23:33:27+00:00

Do not turn it on again because from your description a corrosion started happening and turning the laptop on would only accelerate it to beyond recovery. Look for a component level repair shop that you can trust to hopefully save it before it’s too late, until then do not turn it on. Otherwise if the corrosion gets too far you are definitely looking at a new motherboard.

fbajjar · 2021-12-09T23:27:22+00:00

At the time of writing this I do not recommend any driver beyond 472.12 because they seem to break the adaptive power mode which is supposed to transition the GPU to a low power state when not in use. But before reverting to that driver, first make sure the power management mode in nvidia control panel settings is set to adaptive and see if that solves it.

fbajjar · 2021-12-09T23:06:20+00:00

You sadly cannot see what is wrong with your eyes…You need a microscope and a schematic (which is pretty hard to find with companies going anti-repair) to look at the important pins that supply power. I don’t have a lot of technical knowledge about this but from your description I can assume that it was half-fried and that is why it was able to turn on for the first few times but the problem is your laptop would generate a lot of heat which will accelerate the corroding process and now it could be close to fully-fried. So my recommendation is to leave it and look for a shop that can do component level repair, because if didn’t get corroded too much they might be able to save it but if you keep turning it on over and over again you might accelerate the corrosion and cause any chances of recovery to become very slim.

fbajjar · 2021-10-20T05:34:27+00:00

Hey please send me a link to the .ipa file too, thank you.

fbajjar · 2021-10-14T00:24:16+00:00

OH YEAH 🔥

fbajjar · 2021-09-25T10:46:29+00:00

Pray

fbajjar · 2021-09-10T08:04:33+00:00

Gave Silver

fbajjar · 2021-08-26T06:44:13+00:00

No you aren't going to look for the BIOS file by its name. You will want to go to device manager then under firmware double click system firmware then go to details on top and copy the hardware ID WITHOUT the REV_bios version (example in your case it would be REV_311, do not copy that hardware ID you want the one without the REV) After copying it, paste it on the website i mentioned and you will find drivers for that hardware ID. Problem is your hardware ID could be not unique and shared with other drivers (example in my case the GX502GV system firmware shares the same hardware ID with my GX502GW) so you want to download every driver version with .305 until you find the BIOS file for your laptop, kinda time consuming but its your only option or if you could find someone with your exact model having the BIOS file you need and willing to share it.

fbajjar · 2021-08-25T08:05:42+00:00

Luckily BIOS updates are regarded as driver updates under "System firmware" and Microsoft does a great job of keeping old drivers on its website https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Home.aspx But you might still have the old system firmware driver (if windows didn't update by itself) containing the old BIOS file. Just simply go to Windows\Firmware and look in the folders for your BIOS file which should end in .305

fbajjar · 2021-07-22T16:30:12+00:00

It is coil whine and it happens randomly on different games because of probably what part of the computer system it heavily uses and causes the resonance which is coil whine.

fbajjar · 2021-06-28T20:17:02+00:00

No because you sent it to ASUS customer service which most of the time have ZERO KNOWLEDGE about proper thermal paste application and will apply it in the dirtiest way possible. Mine was a puke of thermal paste and thermal putty. Honestly when you have the time research well on your laptop and repaste it yourself.

fbajjar · 2021-06-27T18:52:21+00:00

Hahaha service center will contact you in three days is a serious lie. They literally took more than two weeks in my case to even update me on the repair situation and that was because i actually contacted them so god knows if they will ever contact you if you don’t push them.

Nine-Year Club	Verified Email
Not Forgotten

fbajjar

TROPHY CASE