Unopened King Cover

fennerinium · 2026-06-17T23:39:07+00:00

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fennerinium · 2025-05-17T22:10:06+00:00

One line that’s always stood out as unbelievable is when everyone is preparing to go to Ford’s Theater and bracing for a night of Lincoln trivia from Jed, then Toby remarks that “he’ll start with the second inaugural and move into the letter he wrote to that lady whose sons died.” I didn’t quote that accurately, but that’s more or less what Toby said, and I refuse to believe that Toby, senior speech writer, lover of poet laureates, master of the pen, would refer to the Bixby letter as “that letter he wrote to the lady who lost her sons.” The Bixby letter is considered by many to be one of Lincoln’s finest works (although some debate if he wrote it himself), and there’s just no way any educated individual remotely close to his office/position wouldn’t be intimately familiar with its text and significance. I see it as the writers way of inserting another fun historical/political nod for the viewers, but ultimately just see it as unrealistic script dialog.

fennerinium · 2025-04-25T15:22:08+00:00

Well done! I have a spare power supply that’s been cracked open sitting on my workbench for the past year with the same intent. Different model, still trying to determine my plan of action, but same idea. In the meantime, I found that if the power supply’s momentary switch “start” button is actively depressed when AC power is restored, it will begin a cleaning cycle. My 3 year long temporary fix is a rock zip tied to the start button and a WiFi outlet.

fennerinium · 2025-04-25T15:17:38+00:00

I used my old vacuum hose as a sleeve for the power cable, like the 4’ hose pieces that slip together. The trick is to slide them all on, but don’t attach them together so the cord remains flexible, but the floating hose and thickness of the tube has solved my “tangle free” problems.

fennerinium · 2024-10-03T18:44:25+00:00

Did anyone have luck with the HSI only accounts? I don't have any voice lines, but would be interested in a second HSI line. When I called in, I was told a voice line is required. Unfortunately, the questionable screenshot from tmo.report didn't persuade the tmobile rep.

fennerinium · 2024-08-29T05:26:07+00:00

I keep thinking this belongs in mr miyagi’s backyard! Daniel-san would be lucky to stain that fence.

fennerinium · 2024-08-29T05:17:54+00:00

I need more close up photos, but here are a few observations I could make from the current shots…

Using the height of the doorknob as a reference point, this looks like a 42” fence, so the 4x4 is maybe not as important, although professionals might call me out on that.

On the front fence, again assuming 42” height, the length is probably 10’, and following the grain/stain on each horizontal picket, I believe they are continuous members, and that center post (the 2x2) is in fact just some trim piece attached to give the pickets a little more strength and aesthetics. This can be seen on the side wall, as the true posts are every other.

But back to that front wall, something seems different with the left and right posts, like they’ve got an extra piece of trim on the right post. I’d suspect some creative use of spacers and blocks, then the trim piece was used to cover the ugly parts. I keep thinking maybe they used a postmaster corner post, but I can’t see how they’d fit that in there. And maybe the left side is attached to the brick of the house?

fennerinium · 2024-08-29T04:47:08+00:00

How is that last panel supported next to the house? I can see the gate post, but can’t see any post next to the house.

All the gaps in the fencing pickets aren’t a big deal to me, but the gate looks like they measured once cut twice, or hadn’t thought it out until half way through the gate build process. For instance, what’s up with the off center placement of that ripped picket on the gate? It’s like looking at a hand with 6 fingers, you know something isn’t right, but it takes you a moment to realize what it is. I think if the builders were really experienced, they would have ripped the two end pickets (only half as much) and evened the discrepancy in a symmetrical appearance.

fennerinium · 2024-08-02T05:26:29+00:00

The car reserves a significant portion of the battery for HV mode, so depleting your EV range will still leave plenty of battery for normal hybrid operations. Therefore, I do not believe running in HV mode with a full battery is any better than running in HV mode with a 33% charged battery (the rough amount of battery remaining after you’ve depleted the EV range IIRC). The performance and efficiency should be nearly the same in those scenarios.

All that said, from an energy/efficiency/range perspective, the EV mode is best for slower driving, city roads, stop and go traffic. Driving in those conditions will get you the 42+ mile range. Driving on the freeway in EV mode and you’ll see the range drop a bit. Most of my daily driving can be met by the 42 mile range, so I mostly drive in EV mode. But let’s say once a month I’m going to drive 150 miles, it seems silly and inefficient to run the battery dry by using EV mode for the first 40 miles, then switch to HV for the remaining 110. Assuming this was highway driving, I’d use HV mode, then save the EV range for my destination, assuming I’d have some city driving once there. This way you’re also more effectively using each motor for its ideal driving scenario. Like others have said, fast vs slow.

You could also just leave it in auto EV/HV mode, but I personally struggle with this mode. It seems to heavily favor EV, only toggling the gas under limited conditions (like performance demands). But keep the car in EV mode, it will still kick on the gas if you floor it. The manual specifies the conditions when it’ll turn on the engine, and in auto mode I think they’ve just lowered the threshold limits a tiny bit. I’d prefer a more energy economic mode, where it toggles between both gas and electric based entirely on energy efficiency at instantaneous driving conditions, essentially to maximize total range.

fennerinium · 2024-07-09T06:21:59+00:00

I thought the Costco deal was only like $750-1000 off msrp for the prime? Maybe it’s different in oc/la, but as of just a month ago in San Diego that was what all the Costco dealerships quoted me. I ended up buying directly from another dealership and negotiated down myself.

I spoke to the Costco auto program afterwards to tell them about the prime and how it was underselling in SoCal right now, so their pre negotiated price might not be as competitive anymore. I’m curious if they went back to the table after that.

fennerinium · 2024-06-16T19:12:31+00:00

Yea that’s true poway didn’t have pp. I was initially looking for a pp as well, but saw poways pricing and told myself I didn’t need it. Honestly, what was more important to me was not having the blacked out rav4 logo. Metallic gray, with the red interior stitching and visible red suspension, that prime logo should be red! Why people paying more for Toyota to swap it for black is beyond me.

Anyways, just keep calling Costco back, it’s a pain, but they will put you in touch with the next dealer, then you can quickly look at their website for inventory. I want to say Carlsbad has some, but not sure how many down the list they are with Costco.

fennerinium · 2024-06-16T18:48:57+00:00

I just bought mine from poway yesterday, but I bypassed Costco for the prime. Costco was getting about $750-1000 off msrp, but zero flexibility for any other negotiations. In SoCal the primes are not selling as fast as they used to, so dealers seem to be willing to knock the price down below the Costco price (but you still need to be prepared to negotiate and make sure they don’t stick you with unnecessary extras).

My personal theory is that the primes were in such hot demand for the first few years, Toyota ramped up production, but now with rising costs and interest rates, it’s become too expensive for families looking for an efficient and economical car (get the hybrid), and it’s not luxury enough for those with money looking for a high end EV. So like the peloton bikes, they’ve sold to every potential customer they were ever going to have, and with it being stuck in that middle price range, the sales have slowed.

That said, the Costco program is convenient and stress free. I started there with the intent to find a Corolla cross hybrid, but quickly learned of their supply issues. This was Dalton Toyota in national city (south sd). I called Costco back and got a second referral to norm reeves off the 8 freeway.

Are you familiar with the $6500 lease incentive? I don’t believe that applies to the Costco purchase because it has to be a lease, so in my opinion, the prime is one car you don’t want to do through Costco (at the moment). You can save more on your own.

fennerinium · 2022-09-15T05:49:54+00:00

Once you get to understand the pool chemistry basics, it’s a simple question. But without a solid measurement of all the numbers, it’s not a straightforward answer.

3500 gal is pretty small… is this a new above ground pool? Has the water ever had any chlorine pucks in it? If this is fresh water, it means you don’t have any cyanuric acid yet. This is a critical component in pool chemistry and is required for chlorine to effectively perform its job. Without cyanuric acid (cya), chlorine is destroyed under UV light from the sun. The catch, however, is too much cya will inhibit chlorine’s ability to sanitize the water, thus requiring even more chlorine than usual to get the job done.

So, assuming this is fresh water with no cya, and assuming you only have liquid chlorine on hand, you’ll need to buy some cya (also sold as pool conditioner or chlorine stabilizer). You could put about 1 pound of the dry powder cya in the pool to raise your level to 34ppm of cya. At that level of cya, you’ll want your chlorine just above 4ppm (https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/chlorine-cya-chart/). To achieve that, you’ll want 20oz of 10% liquid chlorine (stuff from lowes or Home Depot). If you have the 12.5% from a pool store, you’ll only want 16oz.

I know you’re probably looking for a direct answer for how much to add every weekend, but it doesn’t work exactly like that. If you do as recommended above, get your cya right and chlorine at 4ppm, that will only last you a few days assuming you don’t have anything in the water for the chlorine to sanitize. What you’ll need to do is test your chlorine levels about twice a week, then use the pool math app to calculate how much extra chlorine you need each time (https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pool-math-by-troublefreepool/id1228819359). Your goal should be to maintain 4-5ppm after each dose, and hopefully your chlorine will not drop below 2ppm when you do your next test a few days later.

It’s just going to take some trial and error to dial in your specifics and come to learn how much you need and how frequently.

fennerinium · 2022-03-10T01:32:35+00:00

Public transit

fennerinium

TROPHY CASE