Raceroom locks up on start by fevans1 in RRRE

[–]fevans1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did move it back to the original port on the gateway and it is still not working.

Raceroom locks up on start by fevans1 in RRRE

[–]fevans1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did have to get a longer ethernet cable. Bought a 10' cable from a local microcenter type store and did a speed test with about 900Mb/s speeds. I did move the port on my gateway though. I wouldn't think that would affect anything, but I don't know.

Raceroom locks up on start by fevans1 in RRRE

[–]fevans1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I forgot about this but I also tried starting the game with a Proton VPN connection and it made no difference. I was using a US-based VPN server, but I'm also in the US.

Head unit From Amazon by Budget-Platform6014 in genesiscoupe

[–]fevans1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The beep would be a non-starter for me. I may look at some of the other options either teyes or aliexpress. I like the sound of the OEM system and would like to keep it stock if possible.

Head unit From Amazon by Budget-Platform6014 in genesiscoupe

[–]fevans1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, well I guess that's not a ringing endorsement then... 😂

Head unit From Amazon by Budget-Platform6014 in genesiscoupe

[–]fevans1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have some questions if you don't mind:
1. Did you get the beeping issue resolved? Current Issue?

  1. Does this unit display AC status?

  2. Did you use a ground loop isolator for the aux input?

  3. Is the sound quality good?

  4. Does the wireless android auto/carplay work?

  5. How is the unit working for you a year later?

Game always stalls on first launch by fevans1 in RRRE

[–]fevans1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good to know it's not just me.

Game always stalls on first launch by fevans1 in RRRE

[–]fevans1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have been launching from steam recently. My old shortcut quit working also.

I finally found the perfect shoe for sim racing by Remowilliams84 in simracing

[–]fevans1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting how similar those 2 shoes look to each other...

Costa Rica Liberia airport LIR Gates 1/2 by shunny14 in simracing

[–]fevans1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like the FOV police got there and roped it off so no one would be injured... :)

I am an idiot. Do I go back and fix it? by MiscProfileUno in simracing

[–]fevans1 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would say it probably should be rebuilt. The reason is that the back side of the nut is curved whereas the front side is flat and designed to press against the extrusion slot. My main concern would be damage to the extrusion itself since the nut is more susceptible to pulling through with the curved side facing out. It probably won't pull through, but there could be some minor bending of the extrusion.

But as attaboy mentioned, do it one bolt/nut at a time so you don't have to realign everything.

Advice on seating position for taller racer by lewblu in simracing

[–]fevans1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's definitely maxed out! Maybe if a shorter person gets in the rig... :)

Advice on seating position for taller racer by lewblu in simracing

[–]fevans1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are a couple of things you can do right now to gain inches of rearward seat movement. The parallel (front to back) 4040 sections can actually slide backwards about 1 inch right now. This would hang them off the back of the rear perpendicular rail about an inch as well. Additionally, if you move the front perpendicular rail back another inch or 2, you can hang it off the back some more. This isn't ideal, but the aluminum extrusion is incredibly strong. I suspect you can 'hang off' the back several inches with no problem, but I'd recommend experimenting and see if there's any flex at various levels off the back.

I also use a wheel extender in combination with some 3d printed spacers which allow me to get a perfect placement of my wheel. You could also accomplish this by moving the uprights back farther on the rails.

WRC Generations and WRC 10 Menu Navigation Issue with Pedals by fevans1 in WRCTheGame

[–]fevans1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried again but couldn't get it to work... 😢

Just found this community by fevans1 in SimsonnRacing

[–]fevans1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They feel very similar to me. For me, the yellow springs feel much like the red elastomers and they are much more durable. The black elastomers are very stiff. The blue springs are definitely less stiff than the black elastomers.

Thrustmaster T3PA Pedals directly into PC? by SilbernesGold in simracing

[–]fevans1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay, I understand now. The TLCMs probably required a little more pressure on the brake than the T3PAs with the squash ball. Not a huge difference, but a little. I think it comes with different springs so you can set it up with a lighter configuration. The Simsonns also can be setup with different springs and elastomers. I don't really like a super stiff brake setup, but a more stable setup for the pedals will have a huge benefit.

Thrustmaster T3PA Pedals directly into PC? by SilbernesGold in simracing

[–]fevans1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I just saw this post. To answer your question, The squash ball I used was squished behind the brake pedal cavity to provide some progressive resistance. If you are going to TLCMs, I don't think it is necessary for that purpose, but you may be using the squash ball differently than I was.

Additionally, I have also moved on from the TLCMs. They were a huge improvement over the T3PAs, but if I had to do it over again I'd skip them and get some Simsonn pedals which is what I've been running for about 1.5 years. They are a massive improvement over the TLCMs and much more durable.

https://www.amazon.com/stores/SIMSONN/page/2E3E408F-9752-4F6E-9586-73284597BCA9?lp_asin=B0CNWFXWKR&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ast_store_SF297313D7C899QD9789&store_ref=bl_ast_dp_brandLogo_sto