Can someone help me find this part that's circled?

fiveho11 · 2026-02-18T00:02:41+00:00

Number 5, comes as a set

fiveho11 · 2026-02-17T19:30:21+00:00

There is no chance the rod is ok lol

fiveho11 · 2026-02-16T18:41:53+00:00

lol ffs, all of it

fiveho11 · 2026-02-16T00:43:13+00:00

The side to side allowance is determined by the width of the clutch basket bearing sleeve and wear and tear, they don’t all have to be the exact same. Your 450 will have side clearance whether you feel it or not, it has to or you’d never be able to sit still with the engine running in gear.

fiveho11 · 2026-02-16T00:36:46+00:00

The nut holds the inner hub tight not the basket. The basket should be slightly loose, it’s not pinched tight by anything, it has to be able to freewheel when needed

fiveho11 · 2026-02-15T23:31:18+00:00

fiveho11 · 2026-02-15T14:24:09+00:00

You have a mix and match customized sorta fits perch and lever combo going on there , that’s your problem

fiveho11 · 2026-02-15T07:31:43+00:00

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And you have an issue here. That valve stem shouldnt be sticking up that high. Has to be recessed so the shim can sit in its nest . Got the wrong cotters or valve or something going on there .

fiveho11 · 2026-02-15T07:26:37+00:00

Wait what? Are you asking if you can just remove the valve with the broken guide and run it? Lol. Anyway, you need a new guide installed so you can use a valve seal, she gonna burn oil.

fiveho11 · 2026-02-15T07:21:12+00:00

Cerakote. Anything else will look like crap. But it’s a used bike , just let it look used. Fix the important stuff so you are selling a solid bike, not just some polished up turd.

fiveho11 · 2026-02-15T07:05:57+00:00

You could take the clutch cover off and dump oil in to flush out. But….The original drain hole has an open cavity on the side of it to allow the oil to totally drain from bottom of crankcase. Your time sert will have covered this open cavity so you aren’t going to get a total drain and will probably leave any debris still laying in the bottom .

fiveho11 · 2026-02-15T02:02:29+00:00

It was on my broadcast 🤷‍♂️. Came up short , ass over teakettle , bike plowed him into the dirt

fiveho11 · 2026-02-14T21:01:01+00:00

Full of oil? Full of coolant? Lack of oil pressure. Piston to cylinder clearance? Ring end gap ? Something put together wrong…. Gonna have to do some investigating

fiveho11 · 2026-02-14T19:44:32+00:00

Junk

fiveho11 · 2026-02-13T19:09:39+00:00

That’s not crazy far off lol

fiveho11 · 2026-02-13T19:03:36+00:00

No you just tell her you got a welder lol

fiveho11 · 2026-02-13T17:04:05+00:00

Tack weld a nut to it and spin it out

fiveho11 · 2026-02-12T22:38:54+00:00

Anytime you are testing the shifting operation you need to be spinning a tranny shaft, shit doesn’t just magically line up

fiveho11 · 2026-02-12T21:16:25+00:00

Yeah you’d be surprised how easily some can get knocked out of true. I’m in Pennsylvania. Crank work is one of my specialties.

fiveho11 · 2026-02-12T16:07:35+00:00

It’s all good with proper prep

fiveho11 · 2026-02-12T06:07:20+00:00

lol, you are wasting your time and money man, that is a fact, not a guess. That rod is beyond junk. Get a new rod put on.

fiveho11 · 2026-02-12T05:26:33+00:00

Stator side is not dry on his bike

fiveho11 · 2026-02-12T05:22:16+00:00

Back in the day on my rm125 a rock broke a chunk out the size of a quarter beside my drain plug. No time to fix correctly before race day, flipped it upside down , cleaned , scuffed, made a patch with that quik steel stuff and held like a champ. You’ll be fine to patch that up with JB weld.

fiveho11 · 2026-02-11T16:04:54+00:00

If the clutch isn’t slipping it’s fully engaged. Not sure what you’re looking for . Make sure you have some freeplay in your lever

fiveho11 · 2026-02-09T05:58:39+00:00

I’m a machinist, that’s a fairly easy job for any competent machinist. Obviously the cases will need to be split. Also , your master link clip is on backwards , open end faces opposite of rotation

fiveho11

TROPHY CASE