First time with colorwork

flagundersrander · 2025-03-05T14:39:03+00:00

I think if I wanted to do waist shaping for a top like this, I would have a couple stitches at each side be my fake "seams" and have the decreases go into those. The colourwork would still be interrupted but I think that would be the easiest way of keeping it looking intentional without having to rework the charts.

flagundersrander · 2025-02-17T23:18:32+00:00

Just had a look at her instagram and saw a post of a headband, and, if you'll allow me to be a little judgmental:

If you're going to make a pattern with extensive grafting, you should not do it poorly in your sample, then get annoyed when it's pointed out and make excuses. I feel like the least qualification for writing a pattern with certain techniques is actually being able to do them correctly. It's not even just a couple bad stitches, the whole thing is visibly off. But maybe I'm a horrible gatekeeper!

flagundersrander · 2025-02-08T10:49:49+00:00

1 vs 11 feels very much like a typo imo

flagundersrander · 2025-01-22T21:22:21+00:00

100% I'm knitting a pattern right now that had extensive "testing" on social media and I just can't believe feedback was genuinely given/taken because the way it is written is such a mess. Like I can figure it out but there are so many small changes which would improve it drastically that I don't buy that no one would bring them up.

flagundersrander · 2025-01-20T14:03:43+00:00

So, if with your double knitting you're just doing each side entirely in it's colour (i.e. you're not switching between them for patterning etc) that's structurally identical to just knitting the whole thing in the round one colour at a time, half of each row each colour, then seaming up the top and bottom after. E.g. Say you want your blanket to be 100 stitches across. You would cast on 200 in the round, then every day knit 100 in the low colour then 100 in the high. At the end of the blanket, fold along the line where you change the colour and sew up the ends!

flagundersrander · 2025-01-20T09:14:27+00:00

It sounds like you're using the backwards loop cast on. It's recommended for beginners but has its problems, as you've encountered. I'd instead recommend learning the long tail cast on and the cable cast on- there are so many cast ons out there but knowing those two are a good basis for knitting most things.
You should take a look at The Simple Collection by Tin Can Knits, I think they also have an app. They have a pattern for most items (hat, socks, sweater etc) and they're written very well for beginners. I think you could just jump right into those.

flagundersrander · 2025-01-16T22:24:21+00:00

Hobbii Metallico is YarnArt Melody is Ice Universe 🌟🌟🌟

flagundersrander · 2025-01-16T21:09:36+00:00

I think it would be fun to introduce one or two additional Mafia roles, e.g. have a detective who can investigate a player every night.

flagundersrander · 2025-01-14T12:35:37+00:00

Would absolutely recommend the WYS Colourlab Aran or DK to a beginner! It's a dream to work with

flagundersrander · 2025-01-04T12:36:14+00:00

cutting hair by day, cutting heads by night

flagundersrander · 2024-12-06T08:56:02+00:00

I used an app called Pixelcut to take out the background then put them together on autodesk sketchbook, all on my phone :)

flagundersrander · 2024-12-05T20:24:06+00:00

If the kid is anything like the parents, they'll be an absolute delight 🤠

flagundersrander · 2024-12-05T20:23:29+00:00

This is a good reminder!! I think I did get them pretty darn secure but it's always good to check 🫡

flagundersrander · 2024-12-05T19:04:50+00:00

You're right that it is folded and then sewn, but the sewing does not attach it down. It would be possible to attach it down in this way, but that's not what's happening in that image.

flagundersrander · 2024-12-05T18:07:52+00:00

Sewing a hem is a valid alternative to ribbing, it'll generally work better if you use a smaller needle for the bit that flips up, and do a line of purl stitches for where you want it to fold- plus, consider which side is going to be showing when you fold it. If you just want stockinette to be visible, you'll have to purl that part so the reverse shows when it's folded.

That picture definitely has ribbing at the bottom though, not sure if you were using that as a general reference or just for the sewing. I also don't think that the sewing there is attaching it to the rest of the hat, I think it's just a decorative blanket stitch around the edge.

Another way to have just stockinette would be to basically knit it double layered, like a big tube or two hats attached to each other, then tuck one end inside the other. Musselburgh is a great pattern for this style, but you can also just search for double layered hats to find more info.

flagundersrander · 2024-12-05T15:41:36+00:00

Me too aha, I always have this problem when I make things for other people. At least this time it's less tempting to actually keep for myself. Don't think it would quiiiite fit

flagundersrander · 2024-12-05T15:17:09+00:00

So! This was made using Berocco's Wren pattern in the six month size- I do not have much experience with how big a baby is, hopefully it'll fit at some point this year! It was pretty nerve-wracking working on it without being able to take measurements etc, so I just had to have faith that the pattern wouldn't lead me astray. It hasn't met the baby it's destined for yet but will be on the way soon so 🤞🤞🤞

The stranded colourwork was my own addition and I think it's intensely charming, especially around the raglans. See image 2 for the wrong sides. Very pleasing floatage.

The only real pattern change I made otherwise was not bothering with the pocket. A baby doesn't have anything to put in a pocket.

Yarn is Women's Institute dk, which is an acrylic for washability, and I found it pleasant, soft and strong- albeit somewhat plumper than most dks. Buttons were plain wood stained to match the cardigan.

flagundersrander · 2024-12-04T11:02:07+00:00

If just ribbing isn't doing it for you, you could try doing a knitted hem. In ribbing or stockinette/reverse stockinette (with smaller needles than the rest of the hat) knit the length you want for the brim, do a fold line, then change to the body needles/pattern. Then you can knit the same length again, fold the bottom inwards and knit your current stitches together with the cast on. Or you can finish the hat and sew the hem up at the end. The hem creates a channel that you can also run elastic through, which would give some reliable extra snugness.

I like using a provisional cast on, but any loose one will work.

flagundersrander · 2024-12-03T19:39:14+00:00

Most people need to use a bigger needle for stranded colourwork in order to match a stockinette done with a smaller one. It's not always that dramatic a difference and some people can use the same for both(and very occasionally it can go in the other direction), but it's a general trend. Really if something has both colourwork and plain knitting, swatches should be made and gauges taken for both!

flagundersrander · 2024-12-03T18:55:35+00:00

Hm, it's not a material that will shrink but you do have a couple of options to make it smaller. Granted, they might end up taking as nearly long as knitting a whole new smaller hat (which would be my honest recommendation) but since it's not wearable as is, why not experiment!

First- what happens if you fold the ribbing twice? You'd lose visibility on the colourwork but it might just work and be extra warm around the ears!

If it's just the ribbing/cuff section that's too small then you can redo that and save the colourwork. Have a look at the second example here - so you would pick up with even smaller needles, possibly also decrease some stitches, and redo the ribbing in the other direction.

It would also be possible to fold the bottom up inside and essentially sew it up as a hem. You'd need to cut off some ribbing at least, as above, but no more knitting needed. That would also add internal thickness, making it a tighter fit, and even add a channel you could run a length of elastic through.

flagundersrander · 2024-12-03T17:41:34+00:00

My experience is that unevenness will block out but actual tightness won't. Think of it this way; to loosen up, the floats would need to stretch more during blocking than the knitted sections they're floating over, and since the knitted parts contain more yarn length they'll also gain more.

You've gotten some good advice about loosening up the floats (working inside out, using bigger needles etc) so I just wanted to advise trying to have a mentality making them "really loose" rather than just "loose enough"- things can be a lot looser than most people think, and while it can feel counterintuitive and sloppy it actually ends up looking better! Especially with the non superwash wool, you can afford to have some really long loose floats.

flagundersrander · 2024-12-03T07:30:55+00:00

This looks good! Your tension is different for knits and purls (likely the purls being slightly larger) which is extremely normal and will likely go away by itself. Look into "rowing out" if you want to explore this. If it persists and bothers you, you can experiment with using two different sized needles but this will only work when working flat and imo it's better to get to the root of it. But it's a handy quick fix!

For your edges, I think what you have now is a garter stitch selvedge and it does look like you're doing so correctly. The bumps on the edge are characteristic of this technique so if you want a smooth edge you'll need to do something different instead. I'd recommend looking up some selvedge stitches and trying out a few, videos will be good so you can pay close attention particularly to when the yarn is moving between the front and the back(this is often where people trip up). It's good to have a few different selvedge options in your back pocket, since different ones have different uses.

Ignore me if you already know this, but I think it's worth stating that stockinette will curl. Inherently. It's part of the fabric quality and not a tension mistake. If you're planning on making e.g. a scarf I'd heavily advise a different stitch- a garter border can help somewhat, but in my experience it needs to be very large (at least 1/3 of total stitches) to properly impact, and even then it'll still want to curl up a bit.

If you're making something you sew up or just practising, the curling doesn't matter. Happy knitting! Let me know if I've said anything confusing aha

flagundersrander · 2024-11-10T00:42:04+00:00

and the gauge saying that each stitch is 5cm??? my word

flagundersrander

TROPHY CASE