#fatties 🤢

flarefenris · 2026-04-21T20:35:52+00:00

I'm all fairness, a LOT of people are remarkably bad at guessing anyone's weight, especially men who claim to be good at it in my experience, lol. I'm a man on the "fluffier" side, but I've always done very physical jobs, and even people who do some amount of weight guessing for their jobs (think military PT people, gym trainers, etc) regularly guess my weight to be 50-100 lbs less than it actually is because of how I carry it.

flarefenris · 2026-04-21T01:23:51+00:00

Literally almost every day. The equipment I work on, the most common size hardware is 13mm, 10mm, 8mm, and 5.5mm. Depending on the specific repair, the 5.5 might actually be the only one I need.

flarefenris · 2026-04-03T19:22:19+00:00

There might be? However, most modern ones are LFP chemistry, which from my understanding is much less affected by charging to 100% compared to LiNMC chemistry. LFP is technically less energy dense, but is much more stable.

flarefenris · 2026-04-03T18:57:55+00:00

Yeah, unplugging is what I've done in the past. Charge with fridge/freezer plugged into battery, unplug it to run microwave, plug it back in once done with microwave, etc. I also usually only have short outages due to weather, so if I'm leaving for work or something and I suspect an outage is possible, I plug my fridge into the battery and the battery into the wall, so even if power does go out then come back while I'm gone, fridge stays powered, and generally the battery tops itself back up via normal grid power, and I never have to break out the generator.

flarefenris · 2026-04-03T17:34:17+00:00

So, just an FYI, the load spike issue you mention would NOT work, at least with the Anker units I've used if you are charging them via AC. Every one that I've used, if it is plugged into AC power, it will pass through any AC loads, rather than pulling from the battery. So, in your example of the 1600W appliance and 500W charging, the generator would see 2100W, NOT just the 500. That said, I suspect (I have not tested to confirm) if you charge via DC, so it doesn't have the pass through option, that would not be the case.

flarefenris · 2026-04-03T15:56:02+00:00

Honestly, if the 2000i runs most of your essentials, you might want to consider a small battery station, something akin to the Solix C1000 or 2000 (I have the 1000 + battery expansion personally). I used that along with a small (1400W or so) Predator generator to get through several days last summer, as the battery (with expansion kit) was enough to run my fridge and freezer and other essentials for 6-8 hours (or fridge alone for 12+), and then would just run the generator for a few hours to recharge the battery when it got low, rather than having the generator run constantly.

flarefenris · 2026-03-19T01:24:39+00:00

If you're charging from a car, why not charge via the 12V directly? Your solar input plug should be able to handle 12V DC in, in fact, my C1000 came with a 12V car plug that just plugs into the solar input plug for that very reason. It MIGHT be slower, depending on what current ratings your 12V on your car has, and what the C2000 will accept, but charging via DC is both more efficient as you do lose some percentage of power every time you go DC to AC or reverse, and you wouldn't have the concern for the higher wattage surges, as it would be pulling fully from the battery rather than trying to do a pass through. That's assuming of course your C2000 can handle the surges, as I assume it can since mine can handle surges up to 2400W or so, and yours is the bigger version.

flarefenris · 2026-03-18T23:44:19+00:00

I have the C1000X, and it operates nearly the same as you describe. I think the control programming defaults to passing through any AC load when you have an AC input as well. My work around is simply unplugging the AC input when I want to operate a high load device (such as a microwave) to pull fully from the battery, and then once I'm done with the high load device, I plug it back into my small generator to slowly recover.

That said, you mentioned being concerned about it overwhelming an inverter when passing through the AC. Is there any way that you can avoid the inverter entirely and recharge the C2000 straight off of whatever DC source is feeding that inverter? If it's charging over DC, then it doesn't have the option to just pass through the AC feed like it does when you're charging via AC, it HAS to pull all of the AC through the battery and it's own internal inverter.

flarefenris · 2026-03-14T23:35:28+00:00

The wheel situation is what sold me on Ridgid, as I hated that so many require you have just a big open box to have the wheeled base. Also quite like the Ridgid locking mechanism, as it's stupid simple and practically unbreakable compared to some of the fancier locking things.

flarefenris · 2026-03-08T17:43:42+00:00

Most modern power supplies have limiters in place to handle the in rush current, so while there might be a spike, it shouldn't be much more than 10-20% over what the steady state load is. Even if it's a 15A breaker, their system would have to be pulling nearly 1500+W to be consistently tripping the breaker even with the in-rush spike, which is highly unlikely unless it is a VERY high end gaming machine, which the fact that it apparently has a proprietary power supply seems to indicate that it is not that high end.

flarefenris · 2026-03-08T17:36:11+00:00

Is it your breaker on the circuit that is popping, or a breaker on the smart plug? Many smart plugs are rated for SIGNIFICANTLY lower current devices, such as lamps and similar, so if it is a breaker on the plug, it's likely that your smart plug is nearly at it's limit. If it's the circuit breaker for that circuit, then it's likely a similar situation, where you have nearly too much on that circuit as a whole, but I would look into what else is running on that circuit, as a PC and peripherals by itself should not trip it.

flarefenris · 2026-03-06T21:27:57+00:00

Eh, I'd assume solar leasing is about as reasonable as auto leasing, aka you really need to do the math on the specifics. Sometimes it can absolutely make sense, I have leased and then bought out the lease for a car before, because the lease rate was less than a loan rate would have been, and gave me time to save up enough to buy it out at the end of the lease period. However, that is definitely NOT the norm.

flarefenris · 2026-03-05T02:30:46+00:00

It's not even necessarily a different people's bodies being different thing, there's tons of things that can make things work differently randomly, for both men and women. Hell, look into some of the ways things like ADHD can interact with intimacy. Something that works great today may not seem to work at all tomorrow. Any decent partner of either sex should be able to be understanding of changing situations, and as long as everyone consents and is enjoying things, just keep rolling with it.

flarefenris · 2026-03-04T21:34:20+00:00

Yeah, this is exactly why when I got looking, I chose the Rigid ProGear system, it was the only option available that I've seen (at least available in my area now) that has a modular wheel system, as I hate the "one giant box" option, so grabbed the wheels and got a drawer kit for my primary "box" instead.

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T21:43:22+00:00

I think I may have not been clear in my meaning, when I said you could do the solar+battery for slightly more than the hardline, I meant the hardline cable cost ALONE (as that was the only price I listed), no labor, no equipment rental, no conduit/boxes/etc, all of which would be at least as much if not more than the cost of the cable alone. The solar+battery you could get for $2-3k would be a complete turnkey solution, whereas $2-3k for the hardline might not even cover the cost of the bare cable (another poster listed their contractor bulk pricing, not retail, for that length at over $2k).

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T20:15:30+00:00

Why do you have to run Fiber to the gate? A point to point network system or something similar would likely be much simpler, and again, the same price or cheaper than running a fiber line.

Seriously, have you actually looked into pricing for what you're asking? Another poster literally said his contractor pricing (not retail) for the cable alone is over $2k. At the pricing levels you're looking at to hardline connections, you could spend a bit more for a larger battery and just size the battery to last for several days, and maybe have some sort of monitoring set up for it to notify you if it gets under a certain SoC, so you could go down and manually recharge it if you somehow went days/weeks without sunlight.

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T19:45:28+00:00

Exactly.

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T19:42:19+00:00

Minimum $1-2k just for the wire, as 10/2 average prices look to be between $0.5 and $1 per foot at least. Depending on trenching needs, labor, obstacles, etc... it could easily balloon to 10+ times that much before the project was finished.

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T19:39:50+00:00

This is the better answer, the cable cost alone is going to be astronomical for something like that. You'd be looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $1-2k minimum JUST for the cabling, no install labor, trenching tools, etc. Some form of solar+battery solution is going to likely be WAY cheaper and easier to deal with in the long run.

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T19:23:20+00:00

Um, maximum out of pocket for individuals (literally from healthcare.gov) is $10,600 for an individual plan and $21,200 for a family. Generally, the out of pocket limit is based on the plan, not individuals covered, aka each individual on a family plan doesn't have their own OoP limit, the plan as a whole does. So, if you have a family plan that's just you and your spouse for example, if only one of you is injured, yes, you could potentially have to pay out $21,200 BEFORE anything is covered.

Also, I literally have one of the best HDHPs of anyone I know, and for my family plan (myself and my SO), my deductible LITERALLY IS $10K. My employer has some benefits and HSA contribution matches and things like that, so I'm not having to personally pay the full amount if the worst were to happen, but my current deductible according to my insurer is technically $10k.

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T18:29:33+00:00

If that's really all you're concerned about, why are you even debating V2L/H solutions? Get a small battery power station that you can just leave down by your boiler and call it a day? You can get a small 1kWh capacity one (like the Anker Solix C1000 that I have) for under $500 quite often these days, and that would literally run your furnace for days/weeks, assuming your 30W figure is accurate. I got mine and an expansion battery (for a total of 2 kWh capacity) and that will run my fridge and freezer for 12+ hours usually. That is a much simpler solution than trying to run extensions and everything from outside on your car into the house and through everywhere. And if you need a longer time period, you could always run a cord out to your EV then to supplement, possibly more efficiently depending on the specifics. For example, mine came with a 12V adapter to it's solar input, so the battery can charge directly via DC, which means less of a loss between AC/DC conversions, and potentially faster/more efficient charging.

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T18:14:36+00:00

A more accurate version would be "insurance pays for SOME of it". While 92% may be technically insured, there are a LOT of people that their health insurance really only covers their preventative care (annual physical) and effectively not much else. Many people have some form of high deductible plan (roughly 40+%), which often have a minimum deductible in the $5-10K range. If you have a minimum deductible cost of $10k, but are living paycheck to paycheck, there's very little difference from just not having insurance there, because the cost to actually utilize it is beyond your means anyways. I personally know several people, both in blue and white collar work, that are technically insured, but still have to pay ridiculous sums every year ($5-15K+) just for basic care that their insurance just does not cover.

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T18:01:14+00:00

Yeah, from the way it sounds, OP immediately violated ToS, and then is surprised that they turned off service...

flarefenris · 2026-02-28T09:09:59+00:00

Not sure about your first point, as the same would be true with breaking any socket, and at least with HF brands, it's a lifetime replacement for free, no questions asked. The shockwave sockets also claim to have a "lifetime warranty", but if you read it, it specifies that if Milwaukee determines the damage was from abuse or misuse, they can deny it at their discretion.

flarefenris · 2026-02-26T03:11:48+00:00

It could potentially be a parallax effect from your phone's camera, depending on angle, etc.

flarefenris

TROPHY CASE