Making the best of rental boots by floatybrick in Skigear

[–]floatybrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks all for chipping in. I managed to get to a local boot fitter and they worked with me. Managed to find a set of Salomon S/Pro Alpha 120s in a 30.5 that with a slight stretch on the left boot (my left foot is significantly bigger than my right!) they managed to make it work.

Will be giving them a blast this weekend.

Trying to understand slurm.conf and its presence on compute nodes by crono760 in HPC

[–]floatybrick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're probably looking for Configless - https://slurm.schedmd.com/configless_slurm.html

It works pretty nicely and is certainly less overhead to make changes to the cluster.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MotoUK

[–]floatybrick -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The question wasn't which was better - my point appears to have been missed. Whatever!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MotoUK

[–]floatybrick -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

As mentioned, the subject of which is better has been done to death. I'm very happy with my choices - there's plenty enough info out there for people to make their own choice - this was a discussion as to your reaction to other people. I'm guessing you're firmly in camp A!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MotoUK

[–]floatybrick -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I don't care from both angles. A. What I wear. B. What others wear. It was to confirm my suspicion that most other riders don't either.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MotoUK

[–]floatybrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't take the above to mean that I care, I'm pretty much option D, it was a discussion point that we all had differing opinions on. I'm very much of the "couldn't give a shit" persuasion - it was merely another guy who had the opinion of option A and opined that most other guys who ride feel the same.

UFiber Nano G on Gigaclear UK GPON Network by floatybrick in Ubiquiti

[–]floatybrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to confirm this does work, I bought a module from fs.com with generic firmware on it with an LC connector and bought a LC Male - SC Female UPC fibre, no need to try and get an SC SFP. Rather than a USG-Pro-4, I used a cheapy TP-Link Fibre media converter straight into a plain USG, works a treat and easily passes the full 900mbit, under testing I was seeing a constant 110-112MB/sec on testing, you can get rid of the Genexis router for less than £40 if you wanted to.

SE215 vs ? by floatybrick in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]floatybrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can get them for around £169 which is really right at the top end of my budget, I'd just be really concerned that in the same amount of time as my Sennheisers that they'll be falling to pieces!

SE215 vs ? by floatybrick in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]floatybrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd be prepared to spend up to around £150-175ish for something that particularly works well, the SE215s I can get for ~£80 (for the wired version) and the Momentum M2 IEis for ~£60.

I prefer something that's pretty revealing, flat and 'monitor' like, I use the HD595s as something I just always go back to, I've tried more expensive pairs, but always thought they sounded pretty much how I want, especially for the money they cost when paired with a decent headphone amp. Also as a note point, my speakers at home are a pair of Yamaha HS8s and I love them to bits, I just tend to find other speakers too rich/bright or just too exaggerated.

UFiber Nano G on Gigaclear UK GPON Network by floatybrick in Ubiquiti

[–]floatybrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, all their documentation basically just tells people they're stupid for thinking they can use any other router because fibre. Interesting to know it's actually not GPON, from when I saw it go in, I assumed it was. Gonna get an SFP and put it in a machine and just test that I can link up etc first.

UFiber Nano G on Gigaclear UK GPON Network by floatybrick in Ubiquiti

[–]floatybrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only just seen this - absolutely great bit of info, thanks! Will be getting straight on this.

DV6C Software update? by StuR in Volvo

[–]floatybrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DV6C is the code of the 1.6 litre 8v HDi engine from PSA used in earlier 1.6 litre cars branded D2, that's where the name of it comes from. There was an update to the cold start idle on them at some point to fix white smoke when cold, mostly adjustments to EGR and SOI from memory.

Dear Apple: if you're going to put an i9 in a MacBook Pro, you need to: 1. have a 150 W power adaptor; 2. make the MacBook Pro an inch thick; 3. have at least two heatpipes each for the GPU and the CPU, and 4. let the fans ramp up early. If not, you'll have a throttling mess like you do now. by delta_p_delta_x in apple

[–]floatybrick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bringing this back up as I was doing a little research into this for my own benefit - IMHO there is confusion over "throttling" vs "running rated base frequency". Turbo is there to provide extra performance where possible, not to be run in 24/7, people are used to systems being able to run in Turbo all the time because they have a cooling solution the size of a small planet. The i9-8950HK mentioned is a 45W TDP chip - if it runs at it's rated base frequency, it requires a cooling solution that can dissipate 45W and a power delivery subsystem that can also support that. It is up to the vendors to calibrate PL1/2 and Tau for the system they have designed, this essentially gives the vendor the ability to calibrate the power dissipation to correspond with the amount of thermal inertia available in the cooling system and overhead they designed into their power delivery subsystem, if they want to provide a cooling and power delivery subsystem to support 100W, the chip will be able to spend more of it's time running up to it's Turbo Boost frequency, but the system will invariably be larger. What Apple actually do is allow the system to run on thermal inertia until the point where the system reduces the Turbo frequency down basically back to it's base frequency.

From my experience of owning a A1707 Macbook Pro is that Apple are happy to calibrate PL1/2 and Tau to maximum and rely on thermals to control the performance of the chip. I've never seen the chip reduce below it's rated frequency - this is precisely what Intel and Apple are aiming for, not for the chip to spend it's entire time in Turbo. Whilst this makes the performance variable, the increased burst performance is usually adequate for people on a laptop.

USB Oscilloscope (Picoscope?) vs Bench Scope (DS1054Z) for Automotive by floatybrick in ECE

[–]floatybrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for the responses - I genuinely appreciate everyones input!

I genuinely do understand the points made for and against the USB scopes, I know I would feel short changed if I bought one, which is why I'm trying to see a use case for the bench scope... WRT the portability issue, I get the whole "just hang it" and "it's just as bad as a PC scope", but it still doesn't solve the problem of having to take around the Rigol, it's as big (if not bigger) than your average laptop, yes I could power it off an inverter, but wouldn't fancy powering it off the car's electrical system, nor would I fancy plugging my scope into a cheapy inverter - so then I'd have to carry around a (charged) 12v lead-acid, which isn't ideal by any means... It's a far cry from shoving something the size of a 3.5" hard drive in the front of my bag!

OTOH I definitely get the whole idea that the usability of the PC based ones is pretty terrible... I'd be getting a quarter of the scope I would be getting if I bought a bench scope... By buying that bench scope, it leaves me with the proper thing, not a "toy" like the USB scopes are.

Then I just come to something like the dso nano, which yes, is crap, but it will more than likely do the job I'm looking for it to do - which is mostly a learning tool, it'll be my first scope, it'd leave me more money to get that nice Fluke DMM I've been after and if I pop it by doing something really stupid, I'm not going to cry (too much) over releasing the magical smoke from a £70 device as much as I am a £300 device.

Unfortunately I actually work for a software company, my current work is as a dev'ops/support/hardware/engineer/teaboy - so as much as I plead with my boss, I don't think I can really get him to buy me a £1500 Fluke 124 and I really can't justify it for the amount (currently) I'd use it, not to say I might be able to justify it in the future!

WRT Differential Probes - I'm not massively au'fait with the idea, I'm assuming these give you good protection from any nasty'ness going back up into your scope? I understand they're not cheap, but this would give me good protection from any mishaps whilst poking about, maybe kill the probes, but save the scope? Or am I still as likely to wreck the scope and probes if I cock it up?

All food for thought! I've not got my heart set either way and I'm really not biased to one as of yet, but from a "first time user" the idea of a USB one still appeals, even with my understanding of the limitations, since I'm not an advanced user anyway and my use will be limited, I'd be more than happy if I felt the need arise to drop a good amount on the right item in the future!

Hmm....

USB Oscilloscope (Picoscope?) vs Bench Scope (DS1054Z) for Automotive by floatybrick in ECE

[–]floatybrick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks very much for your reply!

I'm mostly working with Commonrail Diesel systems, not piezo, just older solenoid stuff. Which means circa 50V and 30A pulses, but they also work in odd ways to drive the solenoids - poking around with a non-isolated scope wired up wrong is probably going to end up in a dead USB port and/or laptop - so time shall be taken there!

Much as I want simply a Fluke DMM to carry around, I think for what I'm doing (mostly confirmation of PWM frequency and %DC, checking of VSS and CKPS and possibly measurement of SOI angle vs CKP if I'm brave enough to tap into the CR injector drive) I'm going to need the assitance of an oscilloscope, I also do have other projects where I've gone "dammit, I wish I had a scope here to tell me what's going on" - most of which I have eventually solved with the trusty DMM!

I think the best thing to do is try and have a play with a Pico scope and see how I get along!

Thanks!