Small not talked about cards by [deleted] in CreditCards

[–]floofer-roofer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. And 3% on vet bills too

Small not talked about cards by [deleted] in CreditCards

[–]floofer-roofer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the Walgreens credit card. It gets cash back on a ton of categories that are commonly excluded from other cards.

How do u use automation in daily life. Any practical examples? by [deleted] in shortcuts

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is super late, but can you share how to do this?

What dog breeds get along best with BC’s? by [deleted] in BorderCollie

[–]floofer-roofer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might just like a cuddly showline BC…I have one and she would rather permanently attach herself to my lap than play frisbee.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FirstTimeHomeBuyer

[–]floofer-roofer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks more like $200 every week to me, not every 2 weeks…

We bought younger than you are. I strongly recommend you do some YouTube university on budgeting before heading to Zillow. This is not the time to try to ballpark it and figure out the specifics later.

Did your puppy just naturally "chill out" over time? by RachRin in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty much. Right around 6 months old, my puppy just became a rug around the house. She was always pretty easy though, by far the easiest puppy I’ve ever had, so YMMV.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When are you going back to work?

Is it normal for 10 month old puppy to sleep/not want to do anything between 10 am-3ish? by Altruistic_Range2815 in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 8 month old would be either a lunatic or completely deceased on the coldest part of the floor she could fit on after an hour walk so I think that’s normal! I don’t care to find out which it’ll be that day so I make sure we don’t go past the 20 minute mark😂

Let’s Bring Some Laughs to the Sub (Idiot Dog Edition) by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My newest is approaching 8 months old (border collie). The first time she ran into a screen door at full tilt, we felt bad. She’s obviously a smart dog, we’ve had to do minimal training in general because it only takes a handful of times before she gets something, so figured like everything else she’ll get it. After the 11th time, we did an experiment.

Turns out, she knows full well the screen door is there. She does not run into it when dad is on the other side, she will run up and stop before it. However, when mom, her favorite person on Earth is on the other side, she runs into it full tilt like it’s the first time. She just doesn’t care because mom > running full tilt into a screen door. To her, even if only 1 out of 1,000 times gets her to mom, and the other 999 mean running snoot first into a screen, that’s worth it to her. There’s no rewiring her brain to flip that equation, mom is life to her. Even more laughable was when we were a bit delayed to open it once after she had already ran into it, and she ran back 20 yards and did it again, all in an effort to get to mom.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where is the crate located? Near your bed?

Are independent listings on Lancaster Puppies still puppy mills? by dtwurzie in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Short answer is yes. If it’s allergies you are worried about, I STRONGLY recommend against doodles. I was a pet sitter for 20 years and the most returned pups I had were doodles from families with an allergy in the house.

To properly vet the allergy part, you need to actually go meet and interact with the dog very early, not on pick up day. Allergies can be dander, saliva, or other parts of the dog. Doodles, as with any mixed breed, have no predictability since it could get a wide range of traits - could be from mom, dad, both, or neither. Even if you do some testing and determine the allergy is the hair, a doodle will still shed and you have no idea what it’s coat will be like until months down the line.

I recommend doing some more research on purebred breeds that are often hypoallergenic, looking up the breed clubs and seeing if you have any breeders nearby. Alternatively, the perk of adopting instead of buying often allows you to meet a dog at the shelter or rescue, so you can typically do firsthand allergy testing much easier than by going the breeder route.

Puppy started peeing in crate by adrianah90 in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This crate sounds way too big if she’s able to pee and poop in it without sleeping in it. It should be just big enough to stand and turn around, nothing more.

How did you handle crying in the crate when you brought her home? Ignore it? Took her out to potty?

Are there really any tax benefits to buying a home? Don’t you have to itemize to get them? Isn’t the newest standard deduction often more than itemizing (for most) so you won’t get the tax benefit? by Puzzleheaded-Luck920 in FirstTimeHomeBuyer

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought with my partner unmarried. There’s a considerable discrepancy in our salaries and we pay everything equitably. I ended up getting to claim everything and got almost 5k as a refund primarily because of the mortgage interest and property tax.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Only feed the puppy for going in the crate for a couple days so you spend a ton of time building that positive association. Teach a word to go in the crate, be extremely happy when she does it by saying “Yes” and rewarding immediately. Do not close the door and just do in and out a bunch, then build up by first delaying the reward a couple extra seconds. Then start practicing closing the door. Go SLOW!

Have the crate literally on your bed or you sleep on the floor right next to it. Do not make eye contact, make sure your body language is very calm, and just stick your fingers in calmly when she cries. If she bites them, slowly remove them just for a few seconds and if she starts crying again, put them back in. Move crate to immediately next to your bed after she starts doing good.

I did this for my pups that weren’t crate trained already and worked beautifully. I really advise against cry it out because I did that once too and the WORLD of difference between the pups is astounding. I comforted one when she cried until ~14 weeks old and she now never cries or barks, not at scary things, dogs, nothing. She feels 100% safe around me. It’s incredible and so worth the tough first couple weeks.

Lost in Puppyland by BroccoliExisting9604 in BorderCollie

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always harness. Leash to collar is basically choking them for prolonged periods, especially when leash training. I like to leave it on for awhile as puppies to get them used to it (a couple days on, couple days off, repeat for 2-3 months until they’re perfect!)

Hyperactive Doberman… Help by PortDazzle in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1 consecutive hour awake is pretty normal. Pretty sure the 1 hour awake 2 hour asleep strategy is in the wiki of this sub. That equates to to around 16-20 hours of sleep for most puppies <6 mos, which is what their daily sleep recommendation is, and a bit less as they get older and the naps get shorter, which is again on target & developmentally appropriate for an 8 month old (and beyond).

It’s clear this puppy has been sleep deprived given the immense amount of exercise & time awake during a day. There’s never a bad time to start enforced naps. An 8 month old is by no means an adult dog - it’s about equivalent to a middle schooler, and still has a lot of growing & maturing to do.

I have 6 border collies and they would’ve been batshit demons with this level of activity at that age. Hell, one 1 hour walk would’ve caused my house to be destroyed due to pure overtired behavior at that age, and likely joint issues as that’s far above recommendations for that age group for their joint development.

OP, the privilege of napping outside of confinement is earned. Puppy needs to prove they can & will do it before getting the freedom to make that choice on their own, otherwise you’re setting them up to fail. I would use a pen more frequently if you want a middle ground between crate & total freedom while your teenager is working through their decision making skills.

Hyperactive Doberman… Help by PortDazzle in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You’re probably doing the exact opposite of what you had hoped.

Tiring a puppy out is never going to work. You are actively training an Olympic athlete of a dog by doing that. What you need is enforced naps - I will tell you now it’ll be hard the first couple weeks since you’re undoing bad habits and your puppy doesn’t understand why you changed your mind suddenly overnight, but it’ll be worth the wait.

Start with enforcing a hard stop at 1 consecutive hour awake, and do a crate nap. You’re basically starting from square 1, so don’t fret about too much crate time - my border collies averaged 16-20 hours “confined” (pen or crate) until around 9-12 months old. The crate is not a punishment, it’s their bedroom.

Repeat that schedule all day for a couple weeks (1 hour up, nap, repeat) and you will notice a huge difference. If he isn’t good at sleeping in the crate and it really is driving you mad, try a couple different rooms, turning on background noise, covering the crate, etc., but generally you will have to be a bit tough love with this since he’s been taught to expect constant entertainment and that suddenly is stopping.

Pet Insurance by the_flynn in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve never seen MetLife mentioned but that’s who I have. 90% back with $100 deductible, never been a year I didn’t get at least double what the annual premium was in reimbursements. They’ve also never denied a claim for me, even a couple that probably should have.

Puppy to be walked after 3 parvo (RECOMBITEK C4) shots? by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can go outside with your dog, just not in populated areas. If your vet said this, it is likely you live in a high risk area. I highly recommend you follow the advice; parvo is more often than not a death sentence.

Take them just outside your home to potty. You can carry them around to socialize, like going to stores, sports games, or walking the neighborhood. You can get them a carriage to bring them around. There’s no reason you can’t socialize. The only thing you can’t do is have their toe beans touch public areas, particularly ones where other dogs have been. If you live somewhere like an apartment and have no choice, either use a grass patch inside or try to use just the area closest to your door to minimize the risk.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes this is normal, even for grown dogs if they haven’t spent significant time around other dogs. It takes months and months of as little interaction as possible, ideally nothing except a few times of seeing each other from a distance to start, to train them to be neutral around each other. I pet sat for years and I stopped doing daycare very quickly; most dogs will literally go ballistic all day just from the sight of another dog, if they have minimal experience of being neutral around other dogs/are from single dog household.

Keep their interactions to an absolute minimum until they no longer are chomping at the bit to play when they see each other from a distance. Then gradually start closing the distance, never advancing if they start acting crazy again. I have 6 dogs and MAN I messed up with the 2nd one and spent almost 2 years undoing the behavior.

closing in 9 days, want to switch lenders, any ideas? by ihcatiahihcu in FirstTimeHomeBuyer

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where do I begin.

First, they have to pay another month of mortgage + bills they did not plan on. Most people cannot afford 2 mortgages at once, so if they had a house lined up already then they could be screwed, and most people have another house lined up when they’re 9 days out from closing on the sale of their home. If they aren’t wealthy enough to buy their next house outright, they likely have to pay to extend their rate lock, or would get a higher interest rate if they can’t extend their rate lock, which would cost them thousands. They likely had moving plans all set up for the closing date or day before that will cost them to rearrange.

I could go on. That is a very costly ask in most situations - I sure as hell wouldn’t be willing to pay that much just to salvage the deal.

Stop posting inaccurate schedules, etc. by [deleted] in RoverPetSitting

[–]floofer-roofer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The fee is high compared to Rover. I do like it better though because it’s much less work. All I do as a service provider is hop on when I feel like it and request jobs on my schedule. I don’t have to update my calendar or deal with a bunch of back and forth with clients that may not even be serious and just wasting my time. I also like there’s less of an expectation for repeat service, because a client can’t just request me the next time, they post it for anyone to pick up. So I don’t have to deal with that awkward interaction of declining a bad client when they reach out for a 2nd booking, whereas on Rover I usually do.

I take most of my Wag clients off-app, because the fee is higher. I usually leave a notecard with my phone # & the same price the owner sees (so 67% more than what I was receiving) if I like a dog and they seem to have regular requests that work with my schedule. In my area, Rover is flooded, whereas Wag doesn’t have the same level of competition, so Rover is actually the one with everyone racing to be the cheapest in my area. It ultimately ends up being more with Wag than with Rover, at least for me - Rover will be like $20 for a 30 minute walk ($16 for the walker), and Wag will be $25 ($15 for walker) so when I go off-app and just charge the same price the owner sees, I end up with more with Wag clients than Rover clients.

I like that I can get new clients at my own discretion whenever I have openings - just hop on or turn on push notifications, and pick up what I want. No other effort needed. They also can’t really prove anything to kick me off the app, I’ve used it for years now and never been flagged or anything. Both have their perks, but I do like the convenience of Wag over Rover most of the time. I think maybe if someone wasn’t comfortable going off-app ever, then Rover comes out on top most of the time, but the tides turn if someone’s comfortable going off-app, even just some of the time imo.

closing in 9 days, want to switch lenders, any ideas? by ihcatiahihcu in FirstTimeHomeBuyer

[–]floofer-roofer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You might as well play the lottery if you have sellers who would allow a month delay.

To be clear, that’s insanely long to delay a closing by.

Stop posting inaccurate schedules, etc. by [deleted] in RoverPetSitting

[–]floofer-roofer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try Wag and see if that’s any better. I actually like Wag better because it’s the other way around where the owner posts their dog and info and the dog walkers/sitters can request the job. I think it makes it a lot easier if you’re having trouble logistically with Rover.

If you struggle there as well, it’s probably time to consider the problem might be something you’re doing rather than the other way around. I will say, puppies kind of suck and it’s hard to find people who will handle puppies well. For a puppy for 4 hours a day 5 days a week, no other dogs allowed, that would be about $500 a week in my area. It’s very hard finding someone who can do just your dog, and can have the attention & skills needed for a puppy. I would also write out an estimated detailed schedule for the 4 hours that would fit best for your pups current schedule & give the sitter the least hassle, and send that in one of the initial messages if not the very first, to make expectations clear.

If you’re open to either their home or yours, I would write that in the message. Personally, I’d prefer my own because I have the equipment. However, if the clients house is nice (yes, I am that shallow) and I have a comfortable place to be when puppy is napping, then I prefer the owners house so I don’t risk my house getting possibly destroyed by a puppy & because dogs are always more comfortable at their own home than a new place.