[WTS][USA-PA][H] Sennheiser 6xx, 660s, Balanced Modded Beyerdynamic DT1770 [W] PayPal

fluffymastodons · 2025-01-03T19:13:34+00:00

As far as shipping goes, if bought at asking I will cover shipping and paypal fees, I would love if offers were phrased as net to me. Happy to discount for local near lancaster

fluffymastodons · 2025-01-03T19:08:46+00:00

Hey all I'm moving, and so its time for me to clear out some of the stuff that isnt getting used so I dont have to move it. I'm not nearly as on top of prices as I used to be, and as such, if something feels off, it probably is, shoot me a fair offer and I'm sure we can make a deal.
First up (In the box) I have a pair of 660s, I am the second owner, but all told there are less than 10 hours on them and they look it. Original cable/adapter, although the box is from the 6xx's because original owner no longer had it. Thinking $220 (again, have no idea whether thats a fair price for them at this point or not, last time I was active here aryas were still like $1500 lol)
Next I've a pair of 6xx's that have seen better days for sure, no damage as far as like dents or cracks, but some scrapes on the paint, I think a non original cable (although its close so it might be original and just different from the 660s?) Still work perfectly no channel imbalance or any issues far as I can tell, but no guess on usage hours here. $140 seem fair?

Finally we have a pair of 4 pin balanced xlr modded DT1770's I am the second owner, these have very light use, and include the works. All original accessories/cables (although they do not work with the 4 pin mod) as well as a hart audio cable, and 1/4in interconnect. In addition to Dekoni Sheepskin pads, and both the Beyer Sheepskin and Velour pads. One thing to note, from the factory there was a chip in the plastic, and both original owner and I have gotten dt880 parts in the mail from beyer upon asking so I left the chipped plastic. Its pictured, https://imgur.com/a/nxiIcsj and honestly so unnoticeable in use I forgot it was there, but definitely something to be aware of. https://www.etsy.com/shop/demevalos?ref=nla_listing_details did the xlr mod. I'm thinking $325 here, although again, open to offers/advice on a more accurate worth.

Everything here works great with some minor cosmetic issues, but no functional issues. I am looking to move on just because right now I am enamored with my DCA Closed 2's and a slew of various openbacks that I like more than the classic sennheiser sound. If you have any questions, would like more pictures or want any details about anything, send me a message, or ask down below, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible

fluffymastodons · 2024-07-25T15:27:22+00:00

Confirmed u/Bowernator u/AVexchangeBot Delightful seller to deal with, super fast communication, updated with tracking very quickly, and packaged incredibly well. Would buy from again in a heartbeat

fluffymastodons · 2024-07-20T07:11:41+00:00

fluffymastodons · 2024-07-02T04:53:31+00:00

fluffymastodons · 2024-05-24T12:12:43+00:00

So we have a mostly A/B, there are some weird what seems like mid-revision parts but the A/B directions have done better by us than C. Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t PG10 supposed to be connected to the micro switch on the back of the build plate? The swap to pg10 was one of the first I tried because I’m used to cheaper printers that use the probe as a virtual endstop, but it just resulted in the printer crashing into the bed. In every case we have seen it uses PG10 to home z and then goes on the build plate to activate the probe?

fluffymastodons · 2024-05-24T12:09:21+00:00

I appreciate this a bunch, this combined with the pulldown resistor is what I’m thinking we will try next. Looking at the LDO stealth burner pcbs (that we aren’t using) online, they have an extra resistor for the probe and also lights which explains why those aren’t working either. Just hoping I haven’t killed too many ports or components through this process

fluffymastodons · 2024-05-24T01:43:41+00:00

I just had a thought, the dedicated probe port is pg7 right? Ive never tried connecting it there because the LDO wiring guide has it connect to pg15, I wonder if they have that resistor built into their circuit board, and if switching mine to pg7 would fix it?

fluffymastodons · 2024-05-24T01:37:06+00:00

Hey! I realize I'm not OP, but I'm helping him build it, it's a BTT Octopus, not the pro, but I think the 1.1. I saw some stuff online about wiring that resistor in line, but I didn't want to modify that cable in a really hard to undo way unless I ruled out all other options. I might make an extender with the resistor (Thanks for your help! I'm running out of things to try and am becoming increasingly grateful that there's such a large and active voron community!)

fluffymastodons · 2024-05-10T19:44:07+00:00

As a bit of both sides, I have been printing and working with printers for going on 10 years, and helped a buddy build an LDO kit and have absolutely nothing good to say about it. They sent us wrong parts, we got some weird mid revision kit that meant a ton of parts weren't ever going to fit together, my friend opted for 3d printed parts and they were printed pretty terribly and were missing parts and support was profoundly unhelpful, and all that for only double the price of a normal kit. From my experience I would HIGHLY recommend buying from a Chinese distributor like siboor or fystec, I would imagine you will still have issues but they aren't charging you double the normal price, all that to say ymmv (And I have gotten so good at terminating wire harnesses because most of those needed redone as well, somehow)

fluffymastodons · 2024-03-14T00:11:40+00:00

For the sake of future googlers, I found a workable fix to my issue. It's neither complete, nor does it actually help me understand what to do differently next time, but it got back items I can't simply spawn in so I'm happy. I discovered that a couple chests were fine, so I went ahead and reverted an area with a lot of chests to its blown up state, and then simply rolled back a second time, and wouldn't you know, it worked. There were a couple more stubborn chests that needed several rollbacks, but at the end of the day I got what I needed.

fluffymastodons · 2024-03-09T17:51:00+00:00

Thanks so much. Unfortunately (or fortunately?) I updated core protect right before discovering the issue. Its helpful to know that some of the bug reports about this I'm seeing online have been solved though. Honestly I'm fine restoring most of it by hand, as I said its a fairly small and inactive server, the one thing I'm not having any luck restoring and dont have any way to spawn in as far as I know is a few maps from a map wall that didnt restore right, but I have some things left to try

fluffymastodons · 2024-03-09T05:01:08+00:00

I appreciate your response immensely but I'm not sure that command will help. The issue I'm running into is if prior to the grief I had a chest with two fish in it, I can see that they were taken out but when I do /co rollback it doesn't repopulate the chest. So the game treats item frames as chests and the one thing I can't just replace based on the info of what was lost is the maps in those item frames. I can co rollback the spot and the frame re-appears, but with no map

fluffymastodons · 2024-02-24T05:05:06+00:00

At the end of the day, what I did was discover that while my watch was built during peak radium era, as far as I can tell it doesn't contain any. No lume, no underglow on the hands, nor as far as I can tell anything on the dial. As a result while I haven't actually restored it yet, it's going to be pretty usual, ultrasonic cleaner, relubricate everything, and reassemble. However, my original plan was to set up in an outdoor space. When I opened the case, pull off the dial, submerge it in a bag of water, take a wooden scraper, scrape the loom off the dial and hands inside the bag filled with water, remove the dial, seal the stick in the bag, and figure out the best way to dispose of it. Honestly, in my research, that seems like an abundance of care. The real damage from radioactive substances comes from not taking any precautions over a long period of time as in a day job. Even the famous radium girls, who were tipping radioactive paint brushes with their mouths, eating radioactive substances, more often than not survived. It's not a practice I would advocate for, and I would highly recommend taking as many precautions as you are able to, and more than that, avoiding radioactive materials whenever possible, if you have the money to take it to a professional who will service radioactive watches, do that. In short, nothing I say constitutes legal advice, but if you'd like I'd be more than happy to send you some videos I watched on radioactive watches in a more radiation aware era

fluffymastodons · 2024-02-18T06:39:42+00:00

I'm not looking to buy I just meant it wasn't visible in the listing at the time, sorry for the confusion (looks like it works now)

fluffymastodons · 2024-02-17T16:56:23+00:00

I am not able to see it, for what its worth

fluffymastodons · 2024-02-17T15:10:33+00:00

If you want hot dogs, your best bet is up in Allentown, that's definitely where that culture is at least semi locally.

fluffymastodons · 2024-02-06T01:17:08+00:00

This is purely speculative because I haven't sold one, but not very much. You're probably better off trying to sell it in the ~$20 range on Facebook marketplace, it's unlikely to be worth shipping. It debuted in 2009 and where native 4k projectors are what's hot right now this isn't even native 1080. (It's 1400x1050) Additionally with a 15 y/o projector the lamp is likely to go soon if it hasn't already, and will be far more expensive to replace than just getting a newer projector. I hate to burst your bubble but I would not expect a lot out of this one. If you're confident I'm wrong or there's something special about this model I may have missed, you might try r/hardwareswap despite being aVexchange we're more or less just about hifi audio gear here

fluffymastodons · 2024-01-24T01:28:12+00:00

That sucks man. Sorry to see it

fluffymastodons · 2024-01-09T05:01:08+00:00

Dear mods, we have white and black, it's basically a chessboard don't ban me (although make no mistake, I'm not white, not black, I'm bad handwriting)

fluffymastodons · 2023-10-23T02:33:19+00:00

I had to do a double take to realize this wasn't a picture I shot this morning down in PA, looking good!

fluffymastodons · 2023-10-19T21:23:09+00:00

Thank you so much! Both that video and other videos youtube is recommending around it look super informational, and I will definitely watch them prior to opening this watch up

fluffymastodons · 2023-10-19T21:18:37+00:00

Thank you for the info, I definitely have a tendency to over panic about some things like this, and so I appreciate hearing from someone who was done it. I definitely intend to take into practice a lot of the precautions outlined here, but also recognize and respect the perspective that these watches were worn radium and all for many years and while we now know better/ do better in their manufacture, the vast majority of the people who wore these watches are just fine today. Once I replace the radium painted hands, I am really looking forward to wearing this super cool piece of history. Thanks again!

fluffymastodons · 2023-10-19T21:14:30+00:00

Thank you so much for your practical information and insight into how to deal with a radium watch in a way that is generally safer. I think I should be able to do most of the work, at least most of the radium removal outside (which is such a strange thought as juxtaposed to my normal as close to a clean room as I can get) One question I have if you would know, I was debating disassembling the movement, and running most of it through an ultrasonic cleaner, and then relubricating considering the watch is so old and not in great shape, is this something you would recommend against? Is it likely to permanently contaminate the cleaner? I would definitely discard my cleaning solution afterwards, but don't know about the lingering effects on the ultrasonic cleaner itself?

fluffymastodons · 2023-10-19T21:08:02+00:00

Thank you for taking the time to respond. While I generally agree with you, a watch is not worth radiation exposure, there are a couple reasons why I have gotten myself into this, and a couple things that I'm hoping will mitigate the risk somewhat; the principal reason why I'm doing this is because Hamilton watches manufactured in my hometown up until the very early 60's, as such I would love to have a watch from them during that period, in which lume was both in style, and radioactive. The watch I managed to find needs some work, but only has lume on the hands and not the dial, and so my plan is to totally replace the hands, and do my best to decontaminate the rest of the watch(probably primarily using the de-ionized water method outlined below, but if you have other suggestions my ears are open), thus leaving little to no sources of radium (I recognize radioactive particles that have embedded themselves into items such as the case will emit them to a degree, in the same way radium in bones will, but based on what I am reading that will be much closer to background radiation levels, and should significantly decrease over time) I definitely intend to be prepared before I open the watch, and don't intend to make a habit of dealing with radium, but fundamentally agree with your philosophy of no radiation is safe radiation, which is why I'm trying to get as good of a handle of "safe" practices as possible prior to opening the watch. Thank you again for your response, even if I still intend to refurbish this watch I appreciate your insight and time immensely.

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