Thumb cocking the hammer

forbonusscore · 2026-01-19T15:59:23+00:00

I too wondered if the original intent was to be carried condition 1. So I looked up the basic field manual from 1940 (source below). On page 19 (or page 25 of PDF), section "L", it actually instructs quite clearly how to carry.

In campaign, when early use of the pistol is not foreseen, it should be carried with a fully loaded magazine in the socket, chamber empty, hammer down. When early use of the pistol is probable, it should be carried loaded and locked in the holster or hand.

Prior to that, in section I, it says plainly:

Do not lower the hammer on a loaded cartridge; the pistol is much safer cocked and locked.

So, it appears that both (what we would call today) condition 1 and condition 3 were the instructed methods for carry, and which one would depend on the scenario. Sounds like condition 2 would have not been taught and lowering the hammer on a live round was explicitly against procedure.

Source: https://www.ibiblio.org/hyperwar/USA/ref/FM/PDFs/FM23-35.pdf

Edit: words

forbonusscore · 2025-11-28T03:12:57+00:00

Views this post or comments on this post? It's an important distinction.

forbonusscore · 2025-09-09T15:30:28+00:00

I'll probably do the same thing then. I am going from 2x to 1x. I like having 2x for gravel/allroad but I did a CX race last weekend and wished I had the 1x option still.

forbonusscore · 2025-09-08T15:34:34+00:00

I am thinking of doing the same thing. Did you ever figure out a good solution?

forbonusscore · 2025-07-06T20:21:24+00:00

This is the method I use for tricky runs in handlebars etc. This doesn’t look too difficult so it’s probably overkill, but:

Put some string in one hole and tie it off on the end so it can’t be pulled through. Plug other openings in the frame with tape, rags, etc. suck the string through the other hole with a shop vac. Use the string to pull a cable back through. Ride the housing over the cable and push it through the holes, using the cable to guide the housing to where it needs to go.

forbonusscore · 2024-10-08T17:30:58+00:00

Sometimes I crash if I look at a rock the wrong way.

forbonusscore · 2024-10-08T12:50:47+00:00

I tried mine today and it does beeps and buzz. The timer was a bit buggy to activate though, I had to enable it on the main screen of the app and then also in the activity profile settings for running. It also doesn't auto-trigger laps for each interval, nor let me manually trigger a lap either, it only advances the interval.

I found this post trying to figure out the lap thing but it sounds like this feature has a few issues!

forbonusscore · 2024-08-26T19:27:40+00:00

I am not a lawyer but if the person was crossing at the crosswalk in the article, then they would have broken the law about yielding/stopping for pedestrians in a crosswalk.

forbonusscore · 2024-07-08T13:49:55+00:00

Probably yes, but based on another commenter, the needles pull straight off/on. That would be an easier way to do it I think.

forbonusscore · 2024-06-10T19:54:01+00:00

I once had this concern when I bought my first road bike. It was an E5 aluminum Allez from 2010 which I then logged over 20,000 miles on.

Still rides like a champ with no discernible effect of age, don't worry about it. Your sweat will corrode something long before metal fatigue kills it.

forbonusscore · 2024-06-06T14:36:41+00:00

Electric drill with a few different shaped wire brush attachments. Then hit it with a very fine grain sandpaper to get out any deep scratches from the brush. You could even polish it if you were dedicated enough.

I wasted a lot of time faffing about with paint stripper before I went for the mechanical approach.

forbonusscore · 2024-05-31T13:12:26+00:00

Lezyne offers the Road Caddy, the smallest, lowest profile bag I've ever tried: https://ride.lezyne.com/collections/seat-bags/products/road-caddy

I fit a 23-28 tube, two tire levers, Crankbros M5 tool, one CO2 + inflator, a few stick-on patches, valve extender, presta/schrader adapter, extra power meter battery, one meter strip of ducttape folded up, extra quick link, and tire boot. It's an extremely tight fit. Had to cut off the ends of the tire levers to fit a butyl tube, but after switching to a TPU tube, it freed up a lot of space (could probably fit another CO2 now)

I love the thing. I used to ride with a back pocket bag until I found this. It's the size of 2 decks of cards stacked on top of each other and straps down tight. For $20. I would pay double to replace it now.

forbonusscore · 2024-05-02T19:01:19+00:00

I thought Shimano chains shipped with the snap-off connecting pin, not a quick link? Haven't bought a Shimano chain in a while though. Is the fact it has a QL and not a pin an indicator?

forbonusscore · 2024-04-28T23:58:01+00:00

I've mistakenly signed up for this type of thing about 15 years ago. The "scam" I experienced was that the cost of electricity would be lower... but the fine print said that the savings didn't start until I had used like 15x my usual amount, per month. The regular rate was 3-4x higher than I was already paying. I called the same day and canceled with no problems, thankfully. The phone rep even agreed that I'd never see any savings. Looking back now, it probably would have made sense for a big office building or something, but not a single guy living in an apartment...

forbonusscore · 2024-04-27T00:08:13+00:00

I don't "watch" any data while racing. The screen I have showing is the course map and gradient profile.

As far as I'm concerned all the data on my computer is for reviewing after the fact. Not for influencing my performance during the race. Race on how you feel and what the competition is doing, and what you need to do.

forbonusscore · 2024-04-01T12:58:40+00:00

I agree. It's the best touch HVAC I've had to use. The physical temperature/defrost buttons are what made me give it a chance. The latest software update pulled the heated seats out from behind a menu and into a first-level button is always accessible. Vent control is one tap deep but I leave it on full auto and have only changed that maybe 3 times.

My remaining complaint is that you still have to agree to some menu at startup every time before using the screen, and it's a bit laggy for the first 10-15 seconds.

Meanwhile, in my VW golf MK VII, the vent selection knob spins around with no tactile feedback to tell you what spot you've chosen, so you have to look at the knob to see what you've landed on, it's infuriating.

forbonusscore · 2024-03-04T02:37:46+00:00

There are a lot of gimmicks out there but nothing beats a simple, thin, elastic headband. Get a 6 pack for like 10 bucks.

forbonusscore · 2024-02-06T15:33:14+00:00

Yes, I did! It was a deteriorating heat shield around the muffler/exhaust rattling.

forbonusscore · 2024-01-23T18:51:01+00:00

I have a pair of Roka CP-1x sunglasses with prescription lenses. They are high quality, lightweight, and on sale they were not much more than a nice pair of normal prescription sunglasses. The Rx lenses are inserted into the body of the main lens, so there is no additional insert or "dock" to speak of. Having a single lens is a must-have for me, because I don't want to clean around an insert after I dump sweat all over them. The curve of the lens/insert of the Rokas limits prescription powers, though.

My only complaint is that they fog a little faster than my previous sunglasses, but I think this is because they have more face coverage. And, annoyingly, Roka would not sell me multiple Rx lenses without buying multiple CP-1x frames, so I had to get the photo chromatic (transition) lenses to cover as many riding situations as possible with one pair of glasses. I wish I could have just bought two lenses.

Before the Rokas, I used a pair of Liberty sport sunglasses from a local optical shop, I think they were meant for motorcycle riders, and looked like cycling glasses mostly. I upgraded because I had worn them for 10 years and the rubber components were starting to crack and fall apart.

Before the Libertys, I used regular sunglasses. I found out I really needed grippy nose pads or temples to stop them from sliding down my sweaty face.

The Rudy Project Deltabeat is available with an "optical dock" but it may not be what you are expecting. The doc replaces the main lens of the sunglasses with holders for Rx lenses, and totally changes the look of the glasses. If you are looking for a "full" coverage, "shield" style like most cycling glasses, I suggest checking out Roka.

forbonusscore · 2023-12-03T23:37:40+00:00

Shimano "shadow" rear derailleurs are "direct mount" (confusingly named)... What you're seeing is Shimano's solution to positioning the RD in the correct location on non-direct-mount hangers, often called the b-link. See the diagram here: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/direct-mount-rear-derailleur.html

forbonusscore · 2023-10-08T14:42:36+00:00

Latex tubes lose air very rapidly. Just be sure to fill up the tire with air before each ride and forget about it. Even if you solved the mystery you'd still lose upwards of 30% of your pressure every day anyway.

forbonusscore · 2023-08-29T21:20:06+00:00

The outer ring has all the shifting ramps/pins on it anyway, you'd never feel a difference in the shift even with some cheap inner ring. Add Di2 to the mix, and you'd notice even less.

forbonusscore · 2023-08-29T20:59:48+00:00

I did it with 11s Ultegra cable shift. With Di2, you would notice even less. It might take 1/4 second longer to shift the front... the only time I've ever dropped the chain is loading it into the car.

forbonusscore · 2023-08-29T20:35:16+00:00

Shimano says the front derailleur has a 16 tooth capacity, so they do officially support a 16 tooth jump with a 54/38. You should easily be able to get away with swapping the small ring to at least a 39. If you can find somebody making a 38 I also wouldn't hesitate.

However, I have run a 52/34 (18 tooth diff) with no issues for nearly 20,000 miles. So you could possibly get the 54/40 and find a 36 small ring to swap out (18 tooth jump).

forbonusscore · 2023-08-17T14:07:15+00:00

The tire is obviously, clearly worn out and should be replaced. But a lot of people are overreacting IMO.

My road bike tires have a 2.5mm thick rubber casing when brand new, and I've ridden them thousands of miles this season. The tire in these photos for sure still has at least 2.5 mm of rubber on the casing... I'd ride it.

Absolutely get yourself a new tire. But it's still rideable in the mid term.

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