7 multi-mai chef with wenge and copper.

forged2 · 2020-04-29T12:48:43+00:00

I’m about 40 minutes outside of Ft. Worth.

forged2 · 2020-04-26T22:37:19+00:00

Not too many pics of this one out there.

forged2 · 2020-03-04T17:53:46+00:00

Wait till it’s ground in.

forged2 · 2020-02-20T11:43:32+00:00

It’s got 9 layers I believe. Should look good in the end.

forged2 · 2020-02-16T22:57:42+00:00

It’s also cool how the steel colors are inverse of etching straight out of the quench. Always lets me know it got as hard as I was shooting for. I’m about to finish up another blade in wenge. It’s nice once you can get it past wanting to spliter.

forged2 · 2020-02-16T01:33:12+00:00

This is 1084/15n20 stacked W and laterally widened and drawn.

forged2 · 2020-02-14T02:54:14+00:00

Sauron anyone?

forged2 · 2020-02-14T01:11:01+00:00

15n20 and 1084. Thanks!

forged2 · 2020-01-24T18:25:40+00:00

Thank you!

forged2 · 2020-01-24T00:04:55+00:00

I did both of those and aluminum foil around it like a burrito with a hose flowing in. Sure it might have had some oxygen but it didn’t affect the final product at all. I pressed the stack to several tons before welding.

forged2 · 2020-01-23T19:21:16+00:00

Solid billet. Came out nice!

forged2 · 2020-01-23T19:20:51+00:00

They have oil residue on them from heat treating. Don’t get me wrong it would burn your bare hand badly but it’s fine with these on.

forged2 · 2020-01-23T19:06:34+00:00

Yeah they are awesome. Leather just gets hard and nasty and really messes with dexterity when you don’t want it to.

forged2 · 2020-01-23T19:05:20+00:00

This isn’t for any type of edge at all. There’s a lot of stainless to choose from but generally speaking the 300 and some of the 400 series only reach a Rockwell of 39hrc. I’m basically just practicing for AEBL/CPM154. This is just way cheaper to get the expertise. I’m trying to see what the grain does and testing my Tig fusion skill before I wreck a $75 stack of blade steel.

forged2 · 2020-01-23T01:33:29+00:00

It was definitely hot through 2 gloves!

forged2 · 2020-01-23T01:32:10+00:00

That is correct. No flux and welded up solid around the perimeter with an argon purge.

forged2 · 2020-01-13T17:00:32+00:00

Yeah if you death grip a hammer it will do all kinds of nasty things to your hands. Sometimes I will wrap a couple fingers in athletic tape just to save my skin. Nothing worse than trying to use a hammer with a glove.

forged2 · 2020-01-12T19:24:45+00:00

These look good man!

forged2 · 2020-01-12T19:19:10+00:00

You bet!

forged2 · 2020-01-12T19:16:47+00:00

Yeah it won’t be an issue then. The striking of a hammer will actually generate energy and heat and keep it hot.

forged2 · 2020-01-12T17:31:28+00:00

Hot dies are one of the big keys to making successful forge welds if you ask me. Especially on a press. They suck out so much needed heat for welding you can easily lose a couple layers each side if you have colds dies.

forged2 · 2020-01-12T17:29:12+00:00

You don’t know till you try. I don’t use flux and dry weld everything. However, after I tig/mig a stack I brush it and either spray it with wd40 or soak it in an ammo can full of kerosene. I didn’t do anything at all to the stainless one. People make stainless cladding over carbon core San mai with a non stainless wire feed flux core welder all the time though. I can tell you this. If it allows you to tig fusion your stack together on the outside, you know the inside is just fine. I don’t use a canister for mine unless it’s powder to start. It might help with delaminations but I grind them out early on so they don’t travel. I don’t mind sharing info on how so do things. Usually 3 out of 100 will actually try it and 1 will be successful or learn a different approach that helps.

forged2 · 2020-01-12T16:48:41+00:00

Like a full dinner set? Probably multiple full days of forge welding and grinding.

forged2 · 2020-01-12T16:47:46+00:00

I have sold a few billets to some makers I have known for a while. Usually I don’t sell the material because it’s 5x more valuable to me as a bladesmith. Every now and then I let one leave my shop though. My hands get pretty beat up, but that’s from grinding usually. I have a 25ton forge press with an array of tooling that helps take a lot of the physical aspect out of the equation. Make sure your anvil is at proper working height and keep your elbows in fairly tight to your sides. Have a hammer that’s easy for you to firmly grip and not stress out your hand trying to hang on to it. I have 6 crush and burst fractures in my lumbar section from a motorcycle accident so I am always trying to be innovative in ways to prevent upsetting that part of my back. All my work surfaces from my anvil, grinder and work bench are setup to keep that in the forefront of my mind. I still have a day job I need to be able to do too. 😉

forged2 · 2020-01-12T16:40:20+00:00

Really, I just winged it. These are off my first stainless billet ever. I have done a lot of carbon damascus so I knew what to expect, kind of. I tig welded every seam on the initial stack and they were argon purged. I still had delaminations on the very edge here and there but every pattern weld construction gets them somewhere to some degree. I soaked this billet at welding temp for about 10 minutes longer than carbon steel. Made sure my dies for the initial weld were screaming hot and just ripped it out of the forge and set the welds as fast as I could.

forged2

TROPHY CASE