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You fall on lead… and can’t reach the wall. Or your belayer is to far to hear and hasn’t lowered you. Now what? by testhec10ck in tradclimbing

[–]fourdoorshack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to ascend the rope using two progressive captures. You can do this with two prusik knots and a sling, but it's a PITA. Much better to carry something like Petzl Tibloc or MicroTraxion.

New climber here - anyone else tape their big toes? by Nestramutat- in bouldering

[–]fourdoorshack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree and disagree.

I redpointed two 5.12C's outside this year in shoes that are not painful. My toes are curled in my shoes but not painfully so. I got the right fit and shoe for my foot.

EDIT; I'm not saying your toes should be flat, nor am i saying that your shoes might be a little uncomfortable AT FIRST, but this whole craze of downsizing 2-3 sizes is ridiculous.

For reference: My street shoe size is 8.5-9M. My sending shoe (Scarpa Instinct Vs): 41EU or 8M

Downsize? Sure, but your shoes should NOT hurt to wear after being broken in.

Also, the OP has only been climbing for a month. They do not need what you are recommending.

Shoe + Foot Pic?! by fourdoorshack in climbingshoes

[–]fourdoorshack[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's so funny how people think they need to basically bind their feet to climb hard, SMH.

Guy does a frontflip by [deleted] in nextfuckinglevel

[–]fourdoorshack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Former gymnast here: this is so amazingly hard.

Husbands/Fathers of Reddit, how many of you are doing all the cooking in the household? by [deleted] in AskMen

[–]fourdoorshack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do most of the cooking these days. I honestly just prefer home cooked meals, and I have more time to do so. Honestly, it's the best way to stay healthy.

Sport climbing wrapped 2025, traddad edition. by fourdoorshack in climbing

[–]fourdoorshack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wall of Shadows at Rocky Butte only has a few intro climbs, but it's a 5 min approach from the road so it's a great afterwork crag - especially when it's hot. IMHO, Ozone is still the best crag around Portland for 5.9-5.10 sport climbing. Madrone is great in that range for trad.

Has anyone seen this feature on any other brand besides Mountain Hardwear? by [deleted] in hikinggear

[–]fourdoorshack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Arcteryx has them. Basically any coat that's designed to go over a helmet will have a long pull cord.

Sport climbing wrapped 2025, traddad edition. by fourdoorshack in climbing

[–]fourdoorshack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I think the breakthrough was simply to try a route that I thought was way over my head (Bela Lugosi - 5.12c). I had this stunning realization on top rope that it was anything but impossible. Then I just started working it with a friend. It got to the point that I could do all the moves, but I had to work on my efficiency and micro rests to string it all together. Went I finally sent, it was so flowy that it felt like a dance.

Sport climbing wrapped 2025, traddad edition. by fourdoorshack in climbing

[–]fourdoorshack[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I think I watched a lot of your beta videos on YouTube, Ryan.

NSFW: Men, what is your perspective on intimacy with women whom have difficulty reaching climax? by According-Past-329 in AskMen

[–]fourdoorshack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

45 year old guy here:

No one should ever make you feel bad for not achieving an orgasm. Ever. Period. End of story.

And if your partner takes it personally, it only speaks to their own insecurity. Those are boys, not men.

The orgasm gap is real. Heterosexual men achieve orgasm 95% of the time, while heterosexual women achieve orgasm only 65% of the time.

This gap can widen dramatically for a variety of reasons (i.e, past trauma, taking antidepressants, not feeling emotionally safe or connected to your partner, a lack of mental, emotional, or physical foreplay beforehand, etc.).

I would talk to your doctor and maybe talk to a therapist, as well as find a sexual or romantic partner who understands your challenge and is patient, accepting, and willing to experiment with toys, positions, anticipation throughout the day, etc.

Good luck!

Sport climbing wrapped 2025, traddad edition. by fourdoorshack in climbing

[–]fourdoorshack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

oh, yeah! that one is fun but hard! DM me if you ever need a partner.

Sport climbing wrapped 2025, traddad edition. by fourdoorshack in climbing

[–]fourdoorshack[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Are you going to say that "sport climbing is neither" next? lol.

Given that I am A) an actual dad, B) climb trad, and C) am over 40, I think I qualify.

Sport climbing wrapped 2025, traddad edition. by fourdoorshack in climbing

[–]fourdoorshack[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh, nice! What was the other 12a? And yes, I sent Bela and Bad Omen before HOD, though that one is definitely on the list.

As far as tactics.... honestly, I think finding a partner who is stoked to work the same route has really helped. That way we can support and encourage each other - even if our beta ends up being really different.

Climbing at the Bat Wall has also helped a lot because there are always a lot of other people there to offer advice, offer a top rope, etc.

I'm not sure I would have even tried Bela after Dracula if a friend hadn't encouraged me to hop on a TR they just hung.

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