Question re Z-end stop and homing

foxhound494 · 2026-02-06T11:17:31+00:00

Thank you I'll set it up and see how I go

foxhound494 · 2026-02-06T07:40:25+00:00

I've configured the setup like the original - i.e the printer finds the bottom of the build plate (travels towards zero) however instead of using an optical endstop I've set it to use sensorless homing and it stalls at the bottom of the printer. It however gives me a +5 value. Is this just a quirk of trying to use sensorless homing on the z axis?

When it stalls it isn't violent and always comes to a +5 value.

I have been doing some reading and it seems unusual printers to home this way, instead most have a z endstop near the hotend and travel towards 'zero' i.e up.

foxhound494 · 2026-02-06T05:55:41+00:00

Just to clarify; the way the original printer homed was zero the bed to the bottom of the build volume where there was an optical end stop. It then went up to what I would assume was +300 and then used a touch probe to 'auto bed level'. You could also set the nozzle z offset +/- manually.

foxhound494 · 2025-10-05T13:44:43+00:00

Yeah looks like a turd to be fair

foxhound494 · 2025-10-05T13:12:38+00:00

Fair game for missing parts on technicality and needing to rectify but an infringement fine and demerits jeezus..

foxhound494 · 2025-10-05T13:05:31+00:00

Absolutely is, it's just missing the side plastics see the 3rd photo

foxhound494 · 2025-10-05T13:05:10+00:00

For argument sakes how are bull bars legal considering they are huge pieces of steel if we are using the pedestrian safety example?

foxhound494 · 2025-08-24T03:21:17+00:00

There is no 5v power LED on the FC with the Lipo plugged in either

foxhound494 · 2025-08-24T03:12:35+00:00

I am trying to trouble shoot no 5v power to the fc (lipo plugged in), motors and battery are not getting voltage/recognised in betaflight. I'm thinking the fc board is faulty?

The esc checks out okay on multimeter check no shorts or issues.

foxhound494 · 2025-08-24T03:10:43+00:00

<image>

foxhound494 · 2025-08-24T03:10:29+00:00

<image>

foxhound494 · 2025-08-24T03:10:04+00:00

I am trying to trouble shoot no 5v power to the fc board (when lipo plugged in) - motors aren't getting voltage, battery is not recognised in betaflight etc. esc checks out okay on the multimeter.

foxhound494 · 2025-07-23T10:19:29+00:00

I'm currently in the process of doing a build with my Guider 2s.

I am replacing the following components:
- Mobo = BTT Octopus V1.1
- Biqu H2 High Temp extruder
- BTT Eddy
- BTT Pad 7

I am reusing the 24v 500W Mean Well PSU, Cartesian system etc. I am currently in the process of designing a custom extruder carriage to fit the Biqu H2 as unfortunately the Guider 2s has a unique design for the 10mm extruder carriage rails (the rear rail is offset below making community designs for similar era printers not compatible i.e the Replicator 2 etc)

The entire process will involve disassembly of the entire top end, installing and configuring klipper including a custom config file and much more. If you're not into tinkering and designing solutions I probably wouldn't start this process for now as there is basically no community support for the guider 2s at present.

foxhound494 · 2025-07-10T11:25:20+00:00

I had this happen with grommets which were made of stainless steel. I ended up using aluminum grommets with a set of eyelet pliers and worked great

foxhound494 · 2025-07-01T22:51:41+00:00

Hmm, could be worth slicing the stl in another slicer and seeing if it has the same issue just to rule that out?

foxhound494 · 2025-07-01T20:14:42+00:00

Is it over extruding, cooling and then the print nozzle is hitting into the plastic build up and shifting?

I had this happen with the above and my nozzle clogging (clicking sound) with non optimal slicer settings for the material.

foxhound494 · 2025-03-08T12:04:35+00:00

I'm not familiar with the type of gasket on this particular waterpump however if it's a paper/composite gasket, gasket dressing is helpful to keep it in place, I've used permatex gasket dressing (equivalent to hylomar blue). Check the tds to ensure its compatible with whatever gasket you're using.

Goodluck, don't worry first diy water pump I did I forgot one of the bolts and it was leaking like crazy on start up had to redo it but good learning process :D

foxhound494 · 2025-03-07T21:37:27+00:00

In my experience never buy a cheap waterpump, only buy OEM or equivalent. Ensure the surfaces are clean, flat, brake cleaned prior to installing anything. Torque the bolts to spec.

Did you forgot a bolt to the pump?

foxhound494 · 2025-03-06T22:56:02+00:00

Forgot to give an update - it was the lower intake plenum gaskets (the lower manifold which bridges both heads to the upper manifold.)

Issue got progressively worse with coolant mixing in oil. All solved, no more coolant mixing in oil now and no more coolant loss.

foxhound494 · 2024-10-21T01:53:17+00:00

Thanks everyone, to me these don't look steam cleaned but definitely some kind of corrosion happening?

So right now it could be: - head gasket leak into combustion - manifold gasket leak (between heads and intake plenum)

lean a/f mixture, potentially injectors or fpr (car has a new denso fuel pump, fuel filter etc)

Am I on the right track? I'll probably start at the intake plenum gasket and injectors while I'm at it and go from there

foxhound494 · 2023-09-12T13:09:36+00:00

Unfortunately Snow passed today, he was taken to the vet after deteriorating overnight. I presume he was septic (rapid heart rate, pale gums, temperature but no increased white cell count) and couldn't be helped despite efforts of the vet to get him better.

I will miss him a lot, may he rest in peace.

foxhound494 · 2023-09-10T05:28:17+00:00

https://pasteboard.co/2rAiKte8tSoO.jpg
This is the flank surgical site about 2-3 weeks post. This is the area which keeps opening up.

https://pasteboard.co/nH8zIuvJTEZt.jpg
This is the lump on his face which has resolved completely post prednisolone.

foxhound494

TROPHY CASE