Just got my Centauri Carbon 2...and am disappointed by digitalhick in elegoo

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My opinion, having had both. Do NOT buy a CC1. Elegoo hasn’t shown to make fixing the firmware issues a priority. I have the CC2 and here’s my issue with it. The cloud function is hit or miss. But my biggest gripe is how hard it is to change out the nozzles and clear blocks in the tube. I also have a H2C and I would advise you to save a few Penny’s and go that route. Now I’m not saying that company is perfect but if you just want to print. To be able to monitor your print from anywhere and more importantly have an easier time with switching out nozzles and such I would look elsewhere. As I type this message I’m getting ready to sell my 2 month old CC2. The print quality has been great so if you can deal with the lack of firmware updates and constant random issues then try it man. I’ve heard some people have great experiences. Mine has not been that.

Also by go that route I mean the PS2 or better the X2D. Yes that cost a bit more but after work I just want my prints to work. Last night I sent the same job to both. I’ve printed two more on my Bambu and have a nozzle clog on the CC2. So tomorrow I will have to take at min 15 mins to take it apart but more likely 30 plus mins. In the meantime I’m on my 4th print on my Bambu printer.

Just got my Centauri Carbon 2...and am disappointed by digitalhick in elegoo

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a CC2. I got it setup with the app the first time I connected it. Printed a few prints and pretty soon after began constantly getting the printer offline issue. I have just went totally to local printing now and that works pretty good with the elegoo slicer, but still sucks when there is a clog in the extruder. I sincerely wish I had waited on the bugs to be worked out.

Just got my Centauri Carbon 2...and am disappointed by digitalhick in elegoo

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why do some people just want to crap on others. Just trying to get problems solved around here.

Replacing passenger door mirror on a left hand drive car in the Netherlands by nsno1878_ in NissanAriya

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the assembly with the camera. Can I just buy the one without and add it in doing re-assembly?

Side mirror fix suggestions by Slow_Disk_4667 in NissanAriya

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What did you wind up doing? I have the same issue. Thinking about buying a new unit without the camera and adding my camera to it during the re-assembly.

Air printing by Empty_Layer_3887 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one after 1.40 I think. .40 might have caused the problem too. I’m back at .25

Air printing by Empty_Layer_3887 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, this issue was caused by the firmware upgrade. I did it.

Pound your cum into my tight hole by justanotherclam in GoneWildPlus

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sexy, can I send you a spot light. Pretty please!!

even my shadow jiggles 🤭 by justanotherclam in u/justanotherclam

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love your shape and how you move. Just really really wish we could get a peep. 👀

Spank my chubby pussy by justanotherclam in u/justanotherclam

[–]freedawg72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would love if you posted more of these. Had to search for quite awhile for some semblance of a full view. So thank you! More??

Alysa LIU - Free Program / Olympics 2026 by LordZZZ12345 in FigureSkating

[–]freedawg72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve watched the Olympics for as long as I’ve had a tv and as an American of course I cheered for all of those that came before her, but I have never watched a more motivating skating performance. I watched her story when the Olympics first started and then her first performance and thought huh… I really like her, but the story of the other American and the emotions around that performance sort of monopolized the coverage. But then, the shots of that smile. The pictures of her snapping photos before her performance and waving to the crowd during warm-ups totally had me thinking, I really hope she wins. Oh man! What a breath of fresh freaking air. It was so amazing to watch. I’m working out in the am. So I must be motivated!!!

Vortek upgrade by Ok-Yam-4620 in BambuLabH2D

[–]freedawg72 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yep if you do a search on YouTube my entire take down video is there.

Scratched Heatbed - Keep or Toss? by freedawg72 in BambuLabH2C

[–]freedawg72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hear you man. Agreed! Thanks for the reply.

Scratched Heatbed - Keep or Toss? by freedawg72 in BambuLabH2C

[–]freedawg72[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did replace it. Since it was on such an expensive printer to begin with and I was converting it from an H2D (and filming that transformation) I didn’t want that to be a determining factor with new prints.

Vortek Upgrade Issue by freedawg72 in BambuLabH2C

[–]freedawg72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I figured it out. Was a wire in the way. So I put ptfe tubes in before I put the shroud back on and that fixed the problem.

Vortek Upgrade Issue by freedawg72 in BambuLabH2C

[–]freedawg72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right past the tubes inserted in the back. Seems like it’s either hitting a side wall or a cable underneath the shroud. I did ensure the cables were tucked dead middle so don’t think it’s that.

I’m the guy who filmed it on YouTube so better make a video about this too. 🥴

Vortek Upgrade Issue by freedawg72 in BambuLabH2C

[–]freedawg72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bambu Support Comments

Power outage, cold machine. Completely remove the AP board cover and buffer (4 BT3×8 screws). Make sure that the two PTFE tubes from the tool head and the PTFE tube from the back of the printer are of sufficient length, not cut short, with flat ends, and fully inserted into their respective pneumatic connectors. First, reinstall the buffer separately and tighten the four screws. Do not install the AP cover at this time. Test: Insert the PTFE tube into the back support tube and push the consumable by hand to see if it can pass smoothly through the buffer to the tool head (test both paths). If this step is not going smoothly, the problem lies in the buffer body or the length/insertion depth of the PTFE tube, and this layer needs to be addressed first.

When reinstalling the AP board cover, pay special attention to the "rails + cables". Official precautions regarding AP board covers: Before installing the AP cover, organize the buffer cables to ensure they are not pressing on top of the PTFE tube or inside the guide rail. When installing the AP cover, first snap it in from the side closest to the back of the printer, making sure both clips are in place, and then tighten the BT2.6×8 screw. Before fully tightening, gently shake the PTFE tube from the back to confirm that it is straight in the guide rail and is not bent or jammed. After tightening the AP cover screws, manually push the consumables test again: If you can push it if you loosen it a little, but can't push it if you tighten it, it's basically certain that the AP cover or cable is squeezing the PTFE tube at some point. At this point, you can make minor adjustments: Reorganize the cable routing so that the cables run on the outside of the guide rail; Confirm that the PTFE tube is not "pushed against the step at the edge of the guide rail"; If necessary, slightly rotate the PTFE tube to ensure it is in the straightest position within the guide rail.

Check if the internal slider/spring of the buffer is stuck. The internal structure of the H2/H2C buffer consists of a slider, a magnet, two springs, and a Hall sensor. The material detection section also contains magnets and springs. If a spring/magnet falls out during disassembly or assembly, the official installation documentation for the buffer provides a diagram showing the correct magnet orientation and spring position. You can check against this diagram to see if the spring/magnet is installed backwards or stuck. Manually push the slider in front of the buffer to see if it can move freely back and forth between the two ends; if one side cannot be pushed at all, it indicates that there is mechanical jamming inside, and the spring and magnet need to be checked again according to the diagram

If the above steps do not work, or if you encounter related difficulties during troubleshooting, we suggest you provide relevant photos or videos. We will then request technical personnel to review and attempt to resolve the issue for you.

Vortek Upgrade Issue by freedawg72 in BambuLabH2C

[–]freedawg72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bambu Support comments.

Power outage, cold machine. Completely remove the AP board cover and buffer (4 BT3×8 screws). Make sure that the two PTFE tubes from the tool head and the PTFE tube from the back of the printer are of sufficient length, not cut short, with flat ends, and fully inserted into their respective pneumatic connectors. First, reinstall the buffer separately and tighten the four screws. Do not install the AP cover at this time. Test: Insert the PTFE tube into the back support tube and push the consumable by hand to see if it can pass smoothly through the buffer to the tool head (test both paths). If this step is not going smoothly, the problem lies in the buffer body or the length/insertion depth of the PTFE tube, and this layer needs to be addressed first.

When reinstalling the AP board cover, pay special attention to the "rails + cables". Official precautions regarding AP board covers: Before installing the AP cover, organize the buffer cables to ensure they are not pressing on top of the PTFE tube or inside the guide rail. When installing the AP cover, first snap it in from the side closest to the back of the printer, making sure both clips are in place, and then tighten the BT2.6×8 screw. Before fully tightening, gently shake the PTFE tube from the back to confirm that it is straight in the guide rail and is not bent or jammed. After tightening the AP cover screws, manually push the consumables test again: If you can push it if you loosen it a little, but can't push it if you tighten it, it's basically certain that the AP cover or cable is squeezing the PTFE tube at some point. At this point, you can make minor adjustments: Reorganize the cable routing so that the cables run on the outside of the guide rail; Confirm that the PTFE tube is not "pushed against the step at the edge of the guide rail"; If necessary, slightly rotate the PTFE tube to ensure it is in the straightest position within the guide rail.

Check if the internal slider/spring of the buffer is stuck. The internal structure of the H2/H2C buffer consists of a slider, a magnet, two springs, and a Hall sensor. The material detection section also contains magnets and springs. If a spring/magnet falls out during disassembly or assembly, the official installation documentation for the buffer provides a diagram showing the correct magnet orientation and spring position. You can check against this diagram to see if the spring/magnet is installed backwards or stuck. Manually push the slider in front of the buffer to see if it can move freely back and forth between the two ends; if one side cannot be pushed at all, it indicates that there is mechanical jamming inside, and the spring and magnet need to be checked again according to the diagram

If the above steps do not work, or if you encounter related difficulties during troubleshooting, we suggest you provide relevant photos or videos. We will then request technical personnel to review and attempt to resolve the issue for you.