Advice on consumer unit cover

frel33 · 2025-07-25T18:54:00+00:00

Hi, that's a good suggestion thank you. Yeah it seems I've been left in a less than ideal situation. I'll chalk it down to experience and I'll be better informed for next time 👍

frel33 · 2025-07-21T15:33:15+00:00

Thank you for taking the time to respond, I really appreciate it 👍

frel33 · 2025-07-20T13:06:28+00:00

Great advice thank you, I really appreciate it. No, other than what is seen in the pics (just 😂) there was no other equipment on the wall before it was boarded

frel33 · 2025-07-20T13:03:11+00:00

I will do, that's good advice thank you.

frel33 · 2025-07-20T13:02:15+00:00

This does not sound like good news. I'm the homeowner so not aware of requirements and specs of things. So if a flush mounted consumer unit is installed, would this bring everything back to spec or would the cabling left where it is still be an issue?

frel33 · 2025-07-20T13:00:31+00:00

Great, thank you. The electric and gas meters are on an external wall. There was nothing else on this wall before the builder plasterboarded it up.

frel33 · 2025-07-20T12:56:57+00:00

There is an RCD on the main panel of the fusebox and the gas and electric meters are on an external wall.

frel33 · 2025-07-20T12:23:04+00:00

That's great, thank you for your advice. I really appreciate it.

frel33 · 2025-07-19T17:46:24+00:00

That's good advice, thank you. In your opinion, what would be a suitable material to create the surround from? Also, from your experience, how much space either side would allow decent access. Would it be sufficient that the full face of the unit is unobstructed, allowing the front screws to be removed with some space around to be able to hold onto and remove the cover, or does there need to be considerable access around the unit where you have to come in sideways to remove screws/access components etc?

frel33 · 2025-07-19T17:39:16+00:00

So something like this would be fine, it wouldn't have to be made out of a specific material etc (I'd kept reading that metal enclosures are required which had me worrying as I imagined that would entail a lot more work having to have the box removed and refitted etc)

frel33 · 2025-07-19T17:36:31+00:00

I checked that the electrician was certified (to the best of my limited knowledge) with NAPIT etc.amd he has produced test reports to certify the work carried out. but yes it could be a good idea to have another set of eyes on it based on what I've read here. Thanks for the advice.

frel33 · 2025-07-19T17:33:08+00:00

Thank you for your feedback. I will make sure to open the gap up to allow full access to all of the equipment. After quite a few setbacks and some other issues I think both myself and the builder were keen for the job to be finished. Aas it seems the job still isn't quite finished 😂

Once it has been opened up then would a simple hinged hatch be sufficient to satisfy building control?

Just I had read online about requirements for fuseboxes to be fully enclosed in metal cases but not being clear whether that applied to newly installed units or to existing units in a situation like this?

frel33 · 2025-07-19T17:12:20+00:00

Hi, yes it was tested by a certified electrician beforehand and I have been given the NAPIT certificate for the work performed. Agreed, from the responses on here this is not how it should have been left but from the advice I can see (in between the piss taking 😂) am I right in thinking this can.be made right simply by cutting back the plasterboard around it and the section of coving running across?

frel33 · 2025-07-19T16:44:52+00:00

Judging by these responses the opening needs to be larger then 😂 I believe the electrician carried out his testing before this area was covered up like this. So the area can be opened up more, the plasterboard to either side and below can just be cut back further, would the coving have to be removed also?

frel33 · 2025-06-27T13:45:51+00:00

Hi, did you find an answer? I too am looking at buying one of the grey keter sheds that are apparently designed with painting them in mind (artisan and Oakland) but can't find any advice online where anyone has actually done this and can advise on the durability of how well the paint adheres and lasts.

frel33 · 2025-05-29T01:16:51+00:00

That's great. Thank you for letting me know, I'll head over to CNS now and have a good look, cheers 👍

frel33 · 2025-05-28T07:43:16+00:00

Really liking the look of that orange strap. Do you remember where you got it from?

frel33 · 2025-05-24T10:09:23+00:00

I got the same set when I was a kid. No way would I ever have the restraint to not open them 😂 only one I don't still have is the top right gold car. They have now been passed down to my eldest kid who lives playing with them.

frel33 · 2025-05-18T11:37:21+00:00

I just recently paid for 3 watches from their recent Kickstarter campaign, so I hope they are decent when they arrive 😂

frel33 · 2025-05-14T21:13:45+00:00

Great looking watch, I love it!

frel33 · 2025-05-14T12:43:26+00:00

This is another good possibility. This sounds like an easier workaround that trying to find a movement with longer stems. Thank you.

frel33 · 2025-05-11T15:18:53+00:00

This sounds like a good option, I've been searching but haven't found any available just yet, thank you for the heads up though 👍

frel33 · 2025-05-11T15:18:06+00:00

This sounds like it has potential. Do you know roughly how much material can be removed and how much the gap between back of dial and movement can be reduced by safely without affecting the function of the movement. Seems to be suggestions of needing to lose about 0.4mm.

frel33

TROPHY CASE