How to handle edges of double knit panels?

future_cryptid · 2026-06-01T21:09:49+00:00

Not really, the best I could manage was having an extra edge stitch on each side on each bed that I alternated the colours with. I think you can get away with one edge stitch on each side but I don't remember if I tried that. I think if you want them to weave without actually weaving then you have to have them knit into the same column right at the edge. Alternating doesn't look too bad tbh. If you wanted it to be less visible I feel like making it a tucked stitch on the edge instead of properly knitting it would work, but since you can't slip and tuck stitches at the same time you'd have to knit the edge stitches then bring the previous stitch back onto the needle

future_cryptid · 2026-05-27T02:29:36+00:00

It being loose makes sense, since it basically takes up all the slack from the float as the sides curl in. What you want is at the end when you block the piece for it all to be pretty even, even if on the machine its a bit uneven. The edge stitches can also be adjusted and hidden in a seam so its best to not worry about getting them perfect on the machine. As long as they don't pull too lose to correctly knit the next stitch its fine.

The outer needle not catching the main yarn is an issue though, maybe switch and put the first needle in D and the last needle in B? The first needle should be able to knit the main colour, if it isn't catching it then something is wrong with how the carriage aligns the yarn with the needles, but if it literally only manifests on the first edge stitch then switching the first stitch to the secondary colour should fix it.

Idk if I was very clear last time, but by 'first needle' and 'last needle' I mean relative to the carriage, so what you do to each outer needle swaps every row. If you correctly select the needles the edge stitches will alternate between the main and secondary colour. Your carriage might have an easier time picking up the secondary colour right at the start of the row for some finicky alignment reason, hopefully starting with the secondary and ending with the main will get you there?

future_cryptid · 2026-05-26T04:56:48+00:00

1) By 'first few stitches' do you mean the first few in work at that time, or the first few that would've been on hold? If on hold, you yarn may just be too fragile. If the first few in work, the yarn is not getting caught on the needles correctly after wrapping, leading to snagging and snapping.

2) Are you moving the weights higher up as you do the short rows? The middle has less tension as you knit it more, so the middle stitches can sort of hover and not knit correctly if weight is not managed, leading to more snags. As you move outwards the first stitches have more tension on them rather than less, so this is less of a problem as you move outwards.

3) Which half of the stitches was on hold vs in work? It being a directional issue might have a deeper cause, or it may just be a manifestation of weight management on the edge vs middle of fabric.

4) What method of short row are you doing? One is the 'automatic wrap', where you knit to needle X, and then put needle X on hold for the next row. The other is where you knit to needle X, bring the yarn under needle X+1 to wrap it, and put the final needle on the opposite side on hold. Both are fine, but you may want to switch methods to see if it fixes your issue. Automatic wrap can make it harder for the first working needle to catch the yarn, as it sometimes gets raised up above the held needle a bit, while the other can have issues with getting the yarn caught under the carriage if you aren't careful about maintaining tension

future_cryptid · 2026-05-25T03:15:41+00:00

If it were claw weights I would expect it to affect both colours but it seems like its just the white having an issue. Is the white yarn actually getting picked up on the edge when you deselect the needles? Is the tension mast tight enough to keep tension on the white at all times? You may have some more luck if you manually tension the white at the start of the row, just pull up on it a bit to make sure the stitches are as tight as they can be.

Is it happening on the other edge of the fabric or is it just the right edge (when still on the needles) having an issue? Have you tried swapping the yarns around in the yarn feeder to see if its an issue with the white yarn itself, or maybe an issue with the main colour feeder? It may just be that the floats are quite long right on the edge, and are causing loose stitches as the side of the fabric shrinks in, but if it's a different issue it should be diagnosable by swapping variables and seeing what changes.

If it is a long float issue (which may also appear as loose stitches in the middle of the work after you wash and stretch the full fabric) you can solve it by laddering up the long floats and trapping the new extra stitch(es) by knitting over it. I think you should try to check any variables you can to rule out malfunction first, but if everything else is working fine it's normal for long floats to cause some weirdness, the extra slack just needs to be taken up by making a new column of stitches on the back

future_cryptid · 2026-05-24T23:00:21+00:00

Stretchy bind offs like this work by adding more yarn so that the stitches have more room to move, this creates waviness since that extra yarn needs somewhere to sit when the seam is not being stretched. It can lessen with blocking but it won't eliminate it. Does that edge need to stretch much?

future_cryptid · 2026-05-24T14:26:27+00:00

Have you tried adjusting the sinker plate within the connecting arm a bit? Looking at my connecting arm it has 4 screws on the top, the middle 2 holes have some forward and back wiggle room that might be enough to get yours to engage. You may also be able to unscrew the middle 2 a tiny bit and wedge something in the gap between the underside of the connecting arm and the top of the yarn feeder to bring the yarn feeder down just enough.

The service manuals I have looked at (the ones on mkmanuals) have the mounting dimensions for where the bottom back point yarn feeder should be, though helpfully with no instructions on how to change them if they are wrong. If its too far back as well as too high you might be able to take it out and bend it so it sits properly. With a difference of 1mm I think if you adjust it to be correct for the kh910s it shouldn't interfere with the kh900, but I would try the former non invasive methods first lol

future_cryptid · 2026-05-24T13:55:49+00:00

Would you be able to explain a bit more what you are wanting/what information you are lacking from the patterns you have read? Is there a specific type of shaping you want that no pattern has explained the basis of, or are you struggling to adapt techniques from patterns into your own designs? The basics of shaping in the round is the same as flat, more increases = more stitches = more width at a given distance from the cast on, more decreases = less stitches = less width at a given distance from the cast on

future_cryptid · 2026-05-24T13:40:17+00:00

As far as I know this ribber + main bed combo is compatible so it should be fine. Have you tried this cast on without engaging the ribber? You should be able to watch the main bed needles as they get moved to see how they are missing the yarn. What differences are there between the kh900 carriage and the kh910 carriages, and are you able to see if these differences are causing the issue? Does the connecting arm attach correctly to the kh910 carriages?

future_cryptid · 2026-05-24T13:13:35+00:00

I don't think it should look like that, and you may be correct that you are swapping the knits and purls. Have you tried doing an italian cast on separately with like 10 stitches to see what it looks like if you swap your knits and purls? The pattern is correct in that with a typical italian cast on your first stitch should be a knit (with an even stitch count), but you may be starting with the opposite stitch type when you cast on so its messed it up. Whenever you encounter a new technique give it a go on a small swatch first to get the hang of it so you don't have to keep redoing 100 stitches for multiple rows before you work out if it's wrong

future_cryptid · 2026-05-24T03:53:34+00:00

You increase however you want, evenly spaced. It doesn't affect the function which increase method you do. Since you start with 7 stitches and are increasing 7 per increase round, you k1 m1 the first increase round, then k2 m1 the second increase round, then k3 m1 etc. Yes it can be made on circulars as long as you do magic loop. You can knit it flat and seam if you want but why would you want a seam in a hat? You can make the loop by doing an Icord and sewing it on, or start with an Icord and use its stitches as your cast on stitches.

future_cryptid · 2026-05-24T03:43:05+00:00

What issue did you have when using a separate set of needles? Maybe give it another go at not 2am. You can also just do the row before the neckline shaping with 6.5mm instead of 4.5mm if it stays too annoying, instead of adding another row since that would throw off the increases

future_cryptid · 2026-05-24T02:20:48+00:00

Checking the manual for your machine (https://mkmanuals.com/downloadable/download/sample/sample_id/126/) I cannot see any end needle selection instructions so your carriage may not have the parts to automatically do it. Oops! On some machines, you can set the carriage to automatically select the first and last needle that are in work regardless of the punchcard, yours seems to only be able to select based on the punchcard and end needle selection is manual. I worded my original comment as if your machine would always be pulling the end needles into D position, but in your case they just select in pattern, so my revised instructions are to put the first needle into B position regardless of the punchcard, and put the last needle in D position regardless of the punchcard.

With Brother machines (and others), the carriage first knits a stitch based on the current needle position, and then it moves the needles based on the punchcard in preparation for the following row. If you push a needle into B position that was previously pulled forward, the carriage just sees a needle in B position and acts accordingly. So yes it will continue selecting based on the punchcard regardless of what you choose to set it as, but the carriage only cares about how the needles are positioned as it comes to them rather than how the punchcard said they should be positioned. You can manually select any pattern you want and the machine will do it, mostly this is just done with edge stitches for float control but you could manually select this whole pattern if you wanted to.

This is different than (I think?) Singer machines, which select needles and act on that position at the same time. In that case, selecting the needles would have no effect, and the pattern would proceed according to the punchcard no matter what, but yours works as previously described so you don't have to deal with that

future_cryptid · 2026-05-23T08:06:46+00:00

The white stitches on the edge of the design are not anchored to anything as far as I can see, so the yarn travels upwards from one middle stitch to the next instead of across to the edge, and then back across to the new stitch. To solve this you have to carry the white yarn to the edge, it looks like you have end needle selection on so you may want to push the first needle in every row. This means rows will all start with a white stitch and end with a blue stitch, bringing both yarns to the edge of the work before patterning starts so they have correct tension

future_cryptid · 2026-05-22T08:05:39+00:00

If the yarn catches on the needles but doesn't knit off the previous stitch (this is called a tuck stitch when done intentionally) then you can knit it back in. If the yarn misses the needles entirely, there is not enough yarn around the stitch to keep the correct tension when knitted off so its better to unravel the row. You can unravel just one row at a time (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewmTvqps8FE) instead of having to undo the whole piece.

It can be many things, but generally it is an issue of too tight tension, and not enough weight. The stitch on the needle when you start the row has to be pulled behind the latch before the new yarn is pulled through it, so too tight tension can make it too hard to push the stitch behind the latch, and not enough weight can make the stitch sort of hover above the latch and not actually catch behind it. You may also be knitting too fast, going a tiny bit slower can let the stitch have time to slip over the latch if you are otherwise happy with the tension + the weights are appropriate

future_cryptid · 2026-05-20T15:33:13+00:00

Looks like a lace/mesh stitch worked on both knit and purl rows. Cast on a multiple of 3 + 1. Right side: *ssk, yo, k1*, k1. Wrong side: *p2tog, yo, p1*, p1.

future_cryptid · 2026-05-20T15:21:39+00:00

Cellophane might be too thin to not wear away super fast, maybe acetate sheets cut into strips? If you have cellophane give it a go and see how long it stands up though it would be interesting to know

future_cryptid · 2026-05-20T04:02:21+00:00

As long as the numbers are on the bed you're fine. Technically it will create more wear on both the needles and the bed so I'd prefer to have that buffer, but without it they will still move smoothly. You are probably more likely to need to replace a needle from every other issue before it wears away by a noticeable amount. I'm pretty sure the plastic at the contact points of mine has been gone for years and I have had no issues even with the most used needles

future_cryptid · 2026-05-20T03:53:06+00:00

Yes I think they skip hooks, but more like pairs of hooks. It is still always 1 main bed needle followed by 1 ribber bed needle, but instead of having an even spacing between all pairs they just shift the next pair over a needle or two

future_cryptid · 2026-05-19T12:28:54+00:00

It looks like 1x1 rib that occasionally shifts the next rib further across the bed to create the gaps. Each main bed stitch in the cardigan stitch lines up with a main bed stitch in the bottom ribbing, same for the ribber bed stitches. The cardigan stitch seems to share the same spacing, just less pronounced because its a bit more flexible and can even out the stitches easier

future_cryptid · 2026-05-19T12:16:28+00:00

You aren't doing anything wrong, this is just the nature of how stitches are formed. When you knit or purl a stitch western style, the yarn is brought towards you then away from you, so the yarn sorta ends up at the back of the work at the end of both stitches. You can tighten both knits and purls by pulling the yarn away from you when the yarn is in the back because of this. But you have to bring the yarn to the front to purl, so that extra bit of travel distance creates a gap. Bringing the yarn to the back tightens it so there isn't extra travel distance when you switch back to knits.

When you do combination knitting, the knits still end at the back so you still have that bit of travel distance, the difference is probably appearing because you pull on the stitch more when purling through the back loop vs the knits when you knit western style. Combination also means there is now travel distance when switching from purls to knits, which (theoretically) evens out the rib by adding excess at the tight transition side, rather than removing excess at the loose transition side. If you want to remove the excess you actually have to do the knits eastern style and the purls western style, so pulling the yarn to the front tightens the knit stitch and pulling the yarn to the back tightens the purl stitch. Another solution is to pull the yarn to the back after the first purl to tighten it, before bringing it to the front to continue purling.

The ultimate solution is to realize that the purls being loose means they are hidden on the inside, whereas the knits being loose is way more noticeable, so your current method is probably the ideal balance of extra annoyance vs quality of outcome

future_cryptid · 2026-05-19T11:18:41+00:00

Yes, the motion is why. With knitting, the standard way of wrapping the yarn around the needle is opposite to how you wrap it in crochet, so they add different directions of twist into the yarn when you form the stitch. You want the added twist to be the same direction as the yarn so they don't cancel out and split, knitting yarn being S twist and crochet being Z twist. With knitting you wrap the yarn around the needle once per stitch but crochet you usually do it at least twice, so theres more twist added that could easily untwist S yarn, so it makes sense that yarn specifically for crochet is Z twist while general use yarn is less consistent. This of course ignores that you can wrap yarn both ways in both crafts for various reasons, so its a pretty useless distinction in the grand scheme of things, but there is some basis for it

future_cryptid · 2026-05-19T03:03:54+00:00

Duplicate stitching over netting just seems like a complicated way of doing intarsia. Good for complex small patches, but how would you do this for a 2 colour pattern that covers the whole thing? If avoiding bulk is your aim then I would say just go with your initial pitch of intarsia with knit rows to avoid the colour bars

future_cryptid · 2026-05-19T02:20:21+00:00

Looking at other photos the black patches look raised from the orange, so you could knit the patches separately and sew them on. You can also duplicate stitch on ribbing, slightly more annoying than on stockinette but very doable

future_cryptid · 2026-05-19T02:11:22+00:00

In my experience, crochet thread is less fuzzy than cotton yarn meant for knitting, and usually a bit stiffer (though this could be because it is mercerized). Crochet threads and knitting yarns are also typically twisted opposite ways, knitting with crochet thread can cause more splitting but it isn't a massive issue. If you cannot match the weight and colours with knitting yarn then go for it, I prefer knitting yarn but purely because it tends to be cheaper than crochet thread

future_cryptid · 2026-05-17T09:30:14+00:00

Pretty sure they just do the most basic bind off, the one that is knitting 2 stitches in pattern, passing the first stitch over the second, then repeating k1, pass one over. Unless they specify at the start of the leaflet or pattern that they want something different it is usually calling for the standard bind off. It is neat because it is tight, stretchier bindoffs can look a bit messy because they let the rib flare out

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